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Feed Sack Garlic. Part II
FEED SACK GARLIC. PART II
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Feed Sack Garlic. Part II
FEED SACK GARLIC. PART II
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The Potato Files: Frosted Finale
THE POTATO FILES: FROSTED FINALE
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Survival Eating: Part 3
http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...eparedness.jpg This started as an article on foraging wild edible and medicinal plants. Then Schoeny asked about a “Wild Garden” on the SurvivalCache forum and my mind started asking questions: 1) Why do we just forage what has grown? 2) Why can’t we plant and harvest the very same plants we look for?
By Regulator5, a SurvivalCache contributor
Read Part 1: Survival Eating
Read Part 2: Survival Eating
The two answers I came up with are:
1. We do not need to “find” the plants
2. We can help Mother Nature by planting these very plants to enhance our ability to “find” and harvest them when needed.
I hope this will help and I am NO expert at planting many of these plants myself. I have foraged several and have tried to reseed the area when I harvest the plants or wait until after nature has reseeded to try and preserve my “plot”.
I went back through my notes and books to find plants that are not only commonly found by me but are common in most of the United States (sorry to our Outside the United States Survivalists and Preppers) or have shown they will thrive in most soils and climates. This list and information is not all inclusive but I hope it will offer enough of a start to allow everyone to begin a “Wild Garden” and find other plants that can be added to their personal plots.
The Wild Garden
The basics with a wild garden are the same as any garden plot, we must find the plant/crops that will thrive in the natural soil http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...vival_food.jpg conditions for our area or create conditions to allow the plants to grow. The great thing about planting in a forest is the natural compost that has been building for years. Many of the herbs and plants were abundant in the mature hardwood forests of the eastern United States and thrived in the natural order of flora cycles (germination, sprouting, living, dying, decomposing, nourishing the next crop).
These plants have shown a hardiness to survive without man’s cultivation and the need for constant attention. Some of these plants were imported from Europe, Asia and Africa by the early settlers and colonists to be used for landscaping or grown to be a food source as they were in the “old” country. These plants are used for food or medical purposes and many work in both fields by utilizing the different parts of the plants or they are just multipurpose by “design”.
I will try and give a brief overview of the plant and it’s many uses, whether for food, medicine or both. On that note, remember to consult your healthcare provider to ensure no harm or death will be caused from taking herbal remedies. The information on health benefits are taken from different books published on the subject and they will be included at the end of the article. I cannot recommend enough to study several authors, including Dr. Bones and Nurse Amy’s website (www.doomandbloom.net) and cross reference the information to gain as much insight as possible.
Also, field guides with pictures (color if possible) are extremely important to ensure you harvest the correct plant; you do not want Cicuta, known as Water Hemlock (extremely deadly) when trying to harvest water lily.
Amaranth is a great source of plant protein and has grain and vegetable varieties. The grains can
be used to feed livestock, which will http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...vival_food.jpg help add meat faster with the higher protein count and unlike corn, Amaranth is digestible for our ruminant friends. The grain varieties can be used in lieu of other grains for breads and desserts and the leaves can be used as an herb. Amaranth also has some medicinal properties which help with the blood cleansing and digestive systems.
Burdock is of great benefit and grows about anywhere there is sunlight, dirt and water. The roots can be dried and ground as a “healthy” coffee substitute, or peeled, boiled and eaten. The leaves and stems can also be eaten. Burdock is most useful for its medicinal properties. It was a commonly used antidote for many poisons and still is in use, along with helping as a blood purifier/cleanser, allergies, hypoglycemia, hyperglycemia, skin rashes (including poison ivy/oak), and many other inflictions which can be common and debilitating in a survival situation.
Cattails (Typha) are probably one of the most essential “wild foods” we have. The young shoots, roots and even the tops are edible. The fluffy pollen tops can be harvested and used to make a nutritious “mush”, the roots can be cooked and eaten as a high starch energy potato substitute. They are also useful in weaving mats and thatching for shelter coverings.
Dandelions (Taraxacum) are also highly beneficial and they will grow anywhere (ask the homeowner who spends lots of money trying to eradicate them from their lawns). The blossoms when picked early can be fried and eaten like mushrooms, the leaves and stems can be used as greens in salad and the roots make a very healthy tea. Dandelion root is high in potassium, a much needed mineral especially when physical activity is high. It is also helpful in cleansing the liver, one of the body’s main “filters” and helps fight high blood pressure.
Clover has the added benefit of being a highly sought after food of animals such as deer, moose, elk, larks, nuthatches, and many more. It is also edible to humans either raw or cooked. A tea can also be made from the dried mature blossoms; which is used to help ward off scurvy (illness that can lead to death from vitamin deficiency) and is known as a blood cleanser.
Wild onions (garlic, leeks and chives are members of this “family”) are very helpful in adding flavor to bland dishes and helping make foods more palatable that you are unused to eating. This is another beneficial plant in helping avoid scurvy. Drinking a “tea” made from steeping the cut up roots on an empty stomach was purported to get rid of intestinal worms.
Shepherd’s Purse leaves can be used in salads and the seeds ground into a healthy meal.
Shepherd’s Purse is a natural blood coagulant used to help stop bleeding (something to think about if you run out of Quik Clot or Celox) and control blood pressure. It is also effective is stopping diarrhea which can lead to dehydration, especially in a survival situation.
Common Plantain or Soldier’s Herb, is another one of those plants that people spend time and money trying to keep from their yards (commonly found growing in the cracks of sidewalks and driveways). This plant has high nutrition value and the leaves are eaten in salads when young or cooked and eaten like spinach. Common Plantain is high in Vitamins A and C, was and is used to kill and expel intestinal worms, and as poultices for wounds and cuts to name a few uses.
Alfalfa is a great plant and is highly nutritious. It also makes great food plots for wild grazers like deer, moose, elk, and rabbits to name a few. It is also great for pasture if you are raising livestock, so it is a very beneficial multi- purpose plant with unlimited potential. Also, most other grains/grasses (rye, oats, quinoa, etc) fall into this category and can be planted and harvested or left for wild animals.
There are several other plants/herbs/weeds that can be planted and “forgotten about” in Mother Nature. These will have food http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...y_preppers.jpg and/or medicinal qualities that will be very beneficial to preppers during an event. Some of these, but not all, are Lamb’s Quarter, cacti, milkweed, chickweed, horseradish, mint(s), dock, chicory, mustard, tiger lily, sunflowers, sweet flag, water cress, hawthorn, sage(s), pig weed, and stonecrop to name a few.
Mushrooms
Then we get to mushrooms but please be EXTREMELY careful when picking and using these fungi for food or medical treatments. I highly recommend books and pocket guides on identifying mushrooms that are carried with you at all times. Some mushrooms are purported to help with diabetes and blood pressure and reduce cholesterol.
Many fruits can be planted in the wild and will thrive. Strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries, mulberries, grapes, apples, pears, peaches, etc are all able to be planted and will normally thrive in open areas of forests and will draw wild life which can then also be on the menu. If possible, read on local Native American tribes food and recipes for suggestions on what grew in your locale for the best options. Fruits and berries are full of vitamins and minerals, have many medicinal values and will thrive in the wilderness without attention. These can be preserved or made into pies (sugar is NOT required) and these comfort foods can be a major benefit for morale of your family/group if a long term event occurs.
Trees are another source of wild foods, which can be planted. The seeds from almost every, if not every, tree are edible and nutrient rich. Oak, walnuts, beech, willow, hickory, pine, maple, and sassafras are all beneficial and have many uses. The nuts and seeds are edible, some the inner bark can be eaten or formed into natural remedies, needles or roots made into teas for human consumption and wild game will be found foraging these foods so they become “magnets” for harvesting dinner. Most trees require years before they produce nuts or fruit, so planting now may not guarantee you a food source, but we prep to give our future generations the best for surviving also so this is planning forward for our children and grand children.
I gave only a very small listing of the plants, trees, and fruits that can be grown in the wild with little to no care from us. These plants have thrived in the woods long before the settling of America cut down our massive hardwood forests and cleared the land for our ever increasing population.
I promote planting trees and other plants to keep a healthy balance in nature and gain back some of our lost forests. I hunt, fish, camp and enjoy my outdoor activities and conservation is important to me as a user of these resources. I try not to cut down trees for firewood, but use what has fallen naturally to reduce my impact. I want my children and their children’s children to enjoy the same activities I do and hope by planting a few trees and plants this will be possible, maybe even to a greater extent than I have.
Remember when harvesting wild plants, if there is no use in the root, leave this to grow again. If possible, shake off the seeds to reseed the plot for the next time you need it. Also, according to some of the books referenced below, harvest plants by the moon cycle. If you need the leaves, flowers, stems, etc, pick while the moon is visible and harvest roots when the moon is set. This falls in line with the moon’s ability to influence the tides; which in respect to plants, a high tide will pull the “juices” up into the plant whereas a low tide will “push” the juices into the root (thinking about some of the old wives’ tales, this made sense to me when I read it).
With so many people harvesting plants whole and NOT reseeding or taking care to maintain balance, we have decimated our natural http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...d_survival.jpg resources for food, shelter and medicine, not only for ourselves but animals we rely on for food as well. The game populations are in direct line with food sources in the area, so animal populations will dwindle from starvation and disease, which can lead to our losing valuable resources when needed. The added pressures of hunting will only create a dimmer future in the event of a situation where people are forced to subsist more on our ancestral foods and not from the grocery store’s shelves. If you have the time during a hike and the extra money or ability, plant some food plots for the local animal population; their boom in numbers may mean whether you and your family/group eat steak or inner pine bark, which would you prefer?
I am including a list of books I have, or are on my shopping list (which I have browsed in bookstores but had to budget my purchases), for use as references. It is not a complete list and I add more books every chance I get. I recently found several books from different authors on Native American gardening, wild foods and medicines and recipes which I will be adding to my library. If anyone has other books or web sites to offer for the readership, please do so. We have the platform to offer much information to each other and even if it does not fill the exact need of everyone; it may help 1 person so the time I spend typing a comment is worthwhile and valuable to me. I only hope the information written will help others in their quest for self sufficiency and survival. As stated previously, I use my gardening, foraging, fishing, trapping and hunting to offset my grocery expenses to allow the money to be saved, paid on other bills or add extra income if produce or pelts are sold. These “hobbies” also allow me to learn about the history of our ancestors by “re enacting” their lifestyles to a degree and gives me my most valued asset, Family Time.
Stay Alert, Stay Alive and Happy Growing,
Regulator5
Recommended Reading:
Field Guide to Edible Wild Plants by Bradford Angier
Field Guide to Medicinal Wild Plants by Bradford Angier
The Little Herb Encyclopedia by Jack Ritchason N.D.
Common Edible and Poisonous Mushrooms of the Northeast by C. Leonard and Charles Fergus
Tom Brown’s Field Guide to Wilderness Survival by Tom Brown Jr
Native Plants, Native Healing by Tis Mal Crow
All New Squarefoot Gardening by Mel Bartholomew
Indian Herbalogy of North America by Alma Hutchens
Cherokee Plants and Their Uses (Click Here)
Authentic Native American Recipes (Click Here)
Cherokee Publications (Click Here)
These are but a few of the resources available to begin your own journey in this wonderful and fulfilling skill and past time. I get several books by different authors to compare notes and cross reference the information to be as accurate as possible. This also gives me multiple books for each family member to use as a guide if we get separated or split up in our foraging.
Survival Eating: Part 3
Survival Eating: Part 2
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By Regulator 5 • 23 min read
We all bring skills, experience and education to the discussion, which is what makes our “neighborhood” so great. These assets differ by person and age group, but that adds to the diversity needed for new ideas and creating a balanced outlook.
Read Part 1: Survival Eating
Personal Lessons
My prepping began as a child, although I did not know this at the time. My grandparents were products of the Great Depression and World War 2, my parents products of the “social revolution” of the 1960’s and Vietnam, and I am a product of the boom of the 1980-90’s and the War on Terror.
I learned much from my grandparents, albeit it did not become “known” to me until I was older. I remember stories of the battles for
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...ng-300x200.jpgIwo Jima, Corregidor, the Philippines, the Ardennes Forest, Normandy, Italy, and the push beyond the Rhine. These stories, although I was too young to understand the tactics and strategies, helped me survive my own deployment 60 years later. I didn’t know that by “trying” to live up to the standard of Patriot and human that our greatest generation, I would find my inner peace and understanding, compassion and empathy for what must be done. I did not want to dishonor both of my Grandparent’s record of service; between them they won multiple Bronze Stars, Presidential Unit Citations, Purple Hearts, Silver Star, etc.They both came from different backgrounds which also affected their outlooks on life in general. My maternal grandfather came from Louisville, Kentucky. His family was one of the founding families and affluent until tragedy struck. He lost his father at age 3 and then his step-father at age 12 during the Depression. The loss of the men of the house, led to losing the farm, which caused a snowball effect on my grandpa; he, along with his 2 older brothers, left home to fend for themselves, as their mother was having trouble feeding all 6 children after losing her husbands and farm during the Depression. How many 12 year olds do you know could survive on their own today? Although he survived, eventually finding his way into the Army just months before Pearl Harbor, he lost one of the most critical elements of “survival” in my opinion, Family Values. He always treated us with love and caring but his brothers and sisters all were very “lost” to each other (1 brother was dead 4 years before any of the others knew).
My paternal grandfather grew up on a rural Indiana farm not far from the Kankakee River. He took a full time job as a kid to help
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...er-300x169.jpgmake ends meet during the Depression. His family stuck together and subsided on what they raised, hunted, foraged and fished. Grandpa, along with 4 of his 5 brothers served in World War 2 (the youngest served in Korea). This side has held extremely strong family ties and have pushed hard to keep the younger generations following this closeness.Both my grandmothers grew up on farms. They worked the farm chores and foraged and hunted to keep the family fed through the depression. These habits were handed down and taught to their children, who in turn tried handing it down to their children, although only a few of us cared to learn or remember the lessons learned. My perception on survival has been molded from 2 very unique outcomes to the same major disaster. Although the mitigating circumstances were different, both families survived the Depression, one as a whole family unit and the other as “individual” survivors. To me the harshest personal lesson is that without preparation and strong ethics and family values, mixed in with some luck (losing a father and step-father just as the Depression hit was bad luck); my family will NOT survive, even if we all “live” through the ordeal.
Survival
Survival is based primarily on a 3 part system;1) shelter 2) water and 3) food. I listed them in the order most survival guides lists in priority. Shelter is tantamount to not only being able to ward off nature’s wrath, but also for morale. Morale is important, without it; the will to survive gets lost. The body will start shutting down and death will be imminent after 3 days without water. We can survive weeks without food but every day we go without food’s vital nutrients, we lose the energy and ability to gather the very food we have been trying to get. Many people, me included, have talked, given ideas, and plan on hunting to feed ourselves and family members in a long term situation. This idea is sound but also has negatives that need to be addressed. We have had articles published here on SurvivalCache that gives instruction on gardening. I only have a philosophical theory to add to promote WHY this is so important. The background information was not to pat my grandparents on the back (although that entire generation deserves it), but to showcase what it took to get through one of our nation’s most trying times and maintain our values we hold so dear, the family homestead/farm.
The loss of the farm led one grandpa to leave home and live as a hobo. He worked odd jobs, foraged, hunted and rode the rails until he was old enough to enlist (his brothers had already joined). Like today, many of the effected youth joined the military for a pay check and to get the basics of survival; a roof over their head, 3 meals a day, and water.
Homesteading/farming/gardening will be the best option for long term survival and I base my opinion on historical facts. During the Depression, wild game was hunted to dismal populations. Squirrels and rabbits were scarce and deer populations were depleted so drastically, that it took 30 years in some states before the population recovered enough to allow hunting to begin again as we know it now.
Livestock & Gardening
The population in the US has more than tripled, 92.2 million in 1910 and 308.7 million in 2010 according to the US Census. Even
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...ng-300x200.jpgwith the modern outlook towards conservation and the recovery of animal populations in the wild; we will be looking at a massive over hunting issue if a long term event happens like another Great Depression. This is the reason I promote homesteading, to whatever degree possible in your location, as the best long term plan. Urban areas can be an obstacle, but not definitive stopper for homesteading. Rooftop gardens can be started (check with building superintendent or whoever can make the decision to allow access) using planting boxes for the garden bed. The book “Square Foot Gardening” by Mel Bartholomew can be a very good source of information. If you live in the suburbs or have a small city lot, then you may be able to add some rabbit hutches and small chicken coops to your preps (check local laws first). If possible and working on small acreage, I would suggest goats and/or sheep for primary livestock. Their smaller size and willingness to eat most things makes them easier to keep. They also don’t require as much pasture to graze for adequate success in surviving themselves; while in agriculture class, it was taught you need 10 acres of regular pasture per cow for pure grass fed beef. This formula can change with better or worse grassland for your pasture.
Goats can provide meat, wool and milk. There are several goat breeds and each has their purpose much like cattle. The one great
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...at-300x201.jpgthing about goats is that they eat just about everything. Check out the different breeds and see which one will best fit your needs and available space if this is an option you choose.If you have enough acres to have a full functioning farm for a homestead, then you can diversify your livestock or have greater numbers. They have “shortline” breeds of some cattle. These are bred to be smaller in size than the cattle we normally see. Another item to look at when selecting a breed is which breeds do best on grazing compared to grain fed. This was something looked at by the old west ranchers when they started importing Herefords (“white faced cattle) to replace the popular Texas Longhorn. The Herefords would add weight faster on grass, plus their temperament was gentler (surviving an event and/or an attack from the “Golden Horde” wouldn’t be worth mentioning if you get gored by your steak dinner). I prefer Jersey dairy cattle over Holstein for a few reasons; they have a higher butter fat content, so I can produce more butter, cheese and cream, they produce less milk overall, 1860 gallons per year compared to 3260 gallons per year.
Hogs will be another resource that will serve multiple functions; hogs will seek out and eat any snakes in their area. This is very beneficial if poisonous snakes are present to pose a danger to other livestock or people. They are also excellent “rototillers” when rooting for food, thus aerating and breaking up the soil. Pork offers more of a problem for storage but salt pork was a main staple of pioneers.
Llamas (best if one female is used) are good protectors of the herd. I know a few farmers who have them just to help protect their cattle from predators. They can also be used for meat, wool or as pack animals. Alpacas may also be of similar interest as they are closely related but are not known for their protection ability.
Horses are also an option. The Mongols even drank horse milk; Native Americans (among others) ate horse meat often. They provide pack animals, transportation and will be the tractors when fuel is no longer available. Mules and oxen are also capable of meeting some of these needs more efficiently than horses.
The availability of pasture, land for hay or grain production for feed, and number in your group/family will all have to be considered for which animals would best suit your needs. Also, most cattle need 2 years until fully grown and ready for butchering, for grass fed. You can butcher earlier if the need arises but for optimum size, the 2 year rule of thumb is followed so should be planned for. All animals are an option and each use must be looked at to find the type and breed that best fits your needs and resources.
The manure from these animals then serves as fertilizer for the gardens; be careful of hog manure and chicken as they are high in nitrogen and can kill crops if over used or put on the garden too late in the year. Read several books from several authors to get the most complete knowledge base in fertilizer use.
Predators
Another issue I have not seen discussed much is the competition from nature’s predators. Coyotes in particular are extremely
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...rs-300x200.jpgdangerous to preppers. They will not only be hunting the same prey we need to survive, but once the population of game animals gets reduced to extinction levels (or close to it), they will start preying on our livestock, children, and others not able to defend themselves. Now imagine if you have bears, cougars, wolves or other large predators in your area? Some further observations on predators; their populations are growing fast because of the lack of trapping and hunting over low fur prices. I have started trapping coyotes very hard in my area for several reasons, 1) It gives me practice in using my traps and snares, 2) It eliminates competition if the need arises for survival hunting, 3) Protects livestock and children. With current fur prices, I’m not worried about selling the fur; I tan it myself and have been utilizing it for my “Buckskinning” and Native American projects. In the “Survival Eating” article on SC, I gave a list of the many different animals I have eaten in the past. Coyote wasn’t one of them but it was eaten by Lewis and Clark’s Discovery Corps according to their journals. I personally would prefer venison roast over coyote tenderloin, so I’ll try to keep the coyote population controlled to allow deer, rabbit, squirrel, and ground nesting bird populations to thrive while I can.
Crops
Crops will be a mainstay in the diet and a garden can help deflect a major portion of the food budget even under normal circumstances. I suggest heirloom seeds, although many promote the hybrids. This is a choice only you can make for yourself and I will attempt to offer some pros and cons on each type.
Hybrid seeds are created to help withstand drought, insects and disease. They will normally have a higher yield, thus providing more food per season. Normally, they are easier to grow, as the science behind making them resistant to other issues, also makes them more “user friendly”. On the other hand, you must have the seeds available for however long you believe an event can last or have access and ability to use an agronomy laboratory. A lot of the vitamins and other minerals have been bred out of the hybrids to make use of their resistant genetics. Many hybrids have also been bred to create a higher than natural sugar or fructose level. This is especially true of fruits and corn. According to Diabetes Cure 101, this fructose is what causes most type 2 diabetes by damaging the liver.
Heirloom crops retain the natural vitamins and minerals in the correct percentages for proper absorption by the body. The seeds from these can be saved and used the next season, thus reducing costs in the long run and providing seeds for however long you need them. The down-side is they are more susceptible to drought, insects and disease, normally have a lower yield than hybrids and generally require more time and work.
Regardless of which type you choose, make sure you create a soil composition preferred by the crops you intend to grow. Compost will add organic matter to the soil and depending on the soil, the amount needed will vary. Sandy soil is very well drained, but this can create too arid of a soil for some plants so adding compost will help the soil retain moisture. Clay soil will hold water and this can lead to “drowning” of your garden; compost will help by giving some place for the water to go. Loamy soils are normally very good growing soils, as they have a lot of organic material for nutrients and have a good mixture of clay and sand for water drainage and retention. Every area is different and normally a county agriculture office will be a great source of information. Also, your local colleges normally have an agriculture office who will help. You must also check the Ph balance of the soil. Some plants, like blueberries, thrive in acidic soil, where others, like corn, prefer more alkali soils. Oak leaves can be mulched into the soil to help raise acid levels and lime (powdered limestone for agriculture purposes) is used to bring the balance to alkali. There are several other methods and materials available so read books and learn what common practice in your area is.
The Native Americans gave us many useful skills when settlers first arrived in America. Anglo Americans probably would not have
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...ns-300x198.jpgsurvived if not for the friendship developed with some tribes. How many enjoy corn on the cob at the Fourth of July celebration you attend? You can thank a Native American for that, although modern corn today resembles the original very little. Speaking of giving thanks, we do every year; Thanksgiving was a shared Holiday between the Pilgrims and their Native hosts based on Native tradition after their harvests. The Natives gave us the “3 Sisters” of agriculture, corn, beans and squash. Other than corn, I think the other two crops were grown by Europeans before coming to America (different varieties perhaps). The 3 Sisters approach will help maximize growing potential for small spaces. They would plant the all 3 crops in the same rows. The beans, a pole bean type, would use the corn stalks as their
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...ng-300x200.jpg trellis and since they are a legume, they added nitrogen to the soil which corn needs in plentiful amounts. The squash would grow along the ground where the corn and bean plants helped shade them and they would help keep weeds from growing by “choking out” the soil and blocking the sunlight. Pole beans normally have a smaller yield overall than bush style beans, but they produce all season long, thus making food available for a longer period of time.
Also planting certain flowers has benefits. Flowers will draw bees which will help pollinate your plants and if a hive is nearby, they will supply you with a very powerful antibacterial and sweetener for tea, honey; plus beeswax for waterproofing, candles, etc. Some plants will not only provide food or alternative medicine, but also helps keep other pests and “garden raiders” away; marigolds will kill insects, garlic and mint(s) will help mask the smells of your garden plants from rabbits and other garden raiders. Some farmers in Indiana plant a few rows of mint around their fields to ward off deer. The deer do not like going into the fields because the mint smell is so strong they cannot smell a predator closing in. Crockett’s Victory Garden is a good reference for what times to plant, thin out and harvest crops. Look for books on container gardening, small scale gardening, and companion gardening to get ideas on what will work best for you and your location(s).
Also, do not forget to grow some herbs. These will add flavor to foods, some are medicinal, some will ward insects or rodents from the area and most are extremely easy to grow on a windowsill in the kitchen (or south facing window in the Northern Hemisphere). You can build small boxes that are attached to the outside of your window sill to grow them and add some decoration to the house.
Herbs have been used for centuries to combat disease, poison, parasites, viruses, etc. They are also used in “alternative medicine” to help the body mend by regulating hormones and other glandular secretions. Herbs such as alfalfa, bee pollen, bee propolis, black and blue cohosh, cayenne, garlic (to name a few) are used to regulate blood pressure; alfalfa, cayenne, garlic, dandelion, sage, red raspberry, kelp, reishi mushrooms, among others are used to combat diabetes; barley juice powder, royal jelly, fenu greek, dandelion, shitake and reishi mushrooms, plantain are but some used in the battle with cholesterol (The Little Herb Encyclopedia by Jack Ritchason). Some herbs can be used to expel or prevent worms in humans and animals and these will be the solutions to medicinal issues once the corner drugstore becomes a memory if an event happens. You should acquire, study, and plan for any situations that may arise to be prepared; whether foraging wild herbs or growing your own. I recommend books from several authors and then cross reference them for fact checking. Some books are available for free download (www.learningherbs.com as one source) and others are available through your local health food store or book store.
Look into some of the wild plants that can be forged for food, i.e., cattails, wild fruit and nuts, sassafras, False Solomon’s Seal (the native’s “sweet potato”), and dandelion, to name a few, to grow in your garden. The best results would be to establish a “biosphere” of sorts to mimic their natural growing areas.
Composting and other natural fertilizers will need to be thought of if a long term event happens (Miracle Grow probably won’t be available). Native Americans buried a small fish in the soil with their seeds for one idea. All organic material can be composted, but be careful of the Ph balance certain materials can create. Manure works well, but chicken and hog manure is very high in nitrogen and can kill plants if added in large amounts directly to the garden spot. If possible, you can even grind down animal bones into a fertilizer (bonemeal in stores) and some butcher shops do this already.
If able to start these projects now, you will benefit from reducing expenses (groceries), have satisfaction in knowing you truly put the food on the table, be able to spend quality time with the family (if done as a group project) and even the young children can be involved in prepping. Plus I think this is a healthier hobby than being a couch potato, but that is a personal opinion. I have been trying to grow more organic foods and reduce the chemicals introduced to my body. Store bought canned goods are usually high in sugars and salts, plus all the preservatives used to abide by the FDA regulations. I’ve eaten home canned vegetables from 20+ years ago at my Aunt and Uncle’s without any ill effects and I do not remember seeing an expiration date on them either. Home canning and freezing (if possible) will allow you to enjoy your harvest year round.
Mine is personal preference and following my medical provider’s advice to either counteract or hopefully fix my illness (for lack of a better term). I have 65% of my liver that functions and it no longer regenerates as a healthy liver does. I’ve been to several doctors and a really well-reputed “Clinic” and after running blood and other tests, I’m usually very politely asked to leave because “they do not want to get involved”. The oncologist that I was referred to gave me 5-10 years at first then changed to 5 years at best because of the acceleration of the issues and other organs effected. I have returned my herbalist, which I left during military service, and seem to be on the mend or at least at a stalemate in the battle for my health. I have learned some things because of my ordeal and hope to learn more. I do not speak of this for any reason other than sharing why I recommend non hybrid and more natural foods. It may also help those just beginning, by knowing that you should never give up; survival is 90%+ mental (IMHO). You can have all the skills and gear possible but if you resign yourself to failure; then you WILL fail.
There are several items and needs to consider when undertaking this decision. We all have experiences and past events that have caused us to choose the path we walk today. I share mine to give a look into what has brought me to the prepping lifestyle and hopefully, maybe give an idea to someone which will help them in their quest. I can only hope that I may have actually “taught” someone something, but I know I have learned from reading the comments following the articles and on the forum.
The Native Americans are one of the best groups at survival known in the modern era. All cultures, whether they were Celts, Vikings, Goths, etc, had to survive during the “dark ages” but they adapted their lives to bring us what we know today. The Native Americans were one of the last populations who still lived a subsistence life. We owe our very nation to the Natives, who gave our ancestors the knowledge and skills to survive this “New World”. Most native “tribes” lived a nomadic lifestyle of sorts and “owned” land just by claiming it (and defending it) for their use. Some Natives, the Cherokee, Iroquois, and Huron/Wyandot to name a few, had great palisaded towns and populations in the thousands. These Native tribes can be (and should be) a great example of how we can set up a post event community and be able to live “comfortably” while we reestablish our modern way of life (if so desired).
The Longhunters and Mountain Men paved the way for “civilization” to follow but they only tamed the land and did NOT conquer it.
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...en-300x200.jpgIt was the pioneer and settler who conquered the land and gave us the great nation we have. The same will be true after an event, we will need to put down roots (pun intended) to rebuild our nation (whichever nation you call home). The nomadic lifestyle may be needed in the beginning to survive, but it will take the “new settlers” banding together with neighbors to ward off attacks by “war parties” (Golden Horde) and rebuild society into what we take for granted now. During a crisis, we must look back on our pioneering forefathers’ lifestyles, as we will need to revert to this for a time. If we plan forward, it will not take 200 years to reestablish our nation, as we have the luxury of learning from the past. Remember, hunting grounds will be fought for, homesteads will be raided and we will suffer whatever mother nature can throw at us; but our ancestors managed to build a nation from scratch while plagued by the same conditions. If possible, prepare now with your neighbors and community for disasters and from there, possibly for a major event.
Farming/homesteading is another skill set that unless practiced, you really don’t have it regardless of how many books you’ve read or how many you talked to. If possible, this skill can save hundreds or thousands of dollars a year that can be used to purchase other essential gear to further enhance your family’s chances of surviving an event. I try to not only contemplate and plan for an actual event and what’s needed but then what I can do now that will further allow me to acquire the gear I feel is needed (saving money on groceries allows me to purchase more ammo or reloading components). Prepping must be considered in a “full circle, big picture” style, as each baby step leads to walking, which leads to sprinting which leads to the marathon of a lifetime if an event takes place.
Stay Alert, Stay Alive
Regulator5
Resources:
www.learningherbs.com
www.herbmentor.com
http://bearmedicineherbs.com
www.herbalhealer.com
www.diabetescure101.com
Here are other relevant articles:
Survival Eating: Part 2 - Survival Cache
Survival Eating
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By Regulator 5 • 24 min read
Food is not just a source of energy and sustenance, but a comfort item as well. When you are hungry, morale goes down and chances of survival dwindle. There will be several opportunities to find food after the supermarkets close, you just need to know where to look and what tools to have.
The first thing you need to know is that meat will only take you only so far. If you read Meriwether Lewis’s journals from their
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...KI-300x199.jpg exploration; the men still felt hungry although they were eating several pounds of meat per day. You can eat 10 rabbits a day and still “starve” as rabbit lacks everything except protein for your body’s survival.
Trapping
Trapping is the most feasible option to maintain a steady supply of fresh meat for the “table”. There are several traps and many
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...ie-300x162.jpgmore that can be improvised. Many people have trapped animals, even if it was just setting a mouse trap to get rid of a pest.The most important thing to prepare for using traps to supply food is to educate oneself on the habits and lifestyles of the animals in your area. If you must travel to your secure location, remember to research and study the areas for the areas you will need to travel through.
My experiences are mostly in the Midwest and Southeastern US, so some tips or items may not be as suitable for a Western environment but I will try and offer tips based on what I have read or been told by trappers/outdoors-men in those areas.
Animal tracks are a sure sign that something is or has been in the area.Tracks can be the obvious footprints in the sand or dirt but can also be as subtle as the scratches on a tree trunk or small holes dug into the ground where your prey was hunting their own meal.
Several books are available for studying the footprints of the animals so you can know what animal you are targeting is. I’d prefer NOT to trap a skunk or opossum unless they are my only choice. Time and energy spent on setting traps for the wrong animal are time and energy you will not get back. Also, setting a rat trap or 110 body grip trap for a raccoon or ground hog is wasted time, as you will not be using the proper tools.
Store Bought Traps
There are several different brands and sizes of store bought traps available on the market. The 3 major types are:
Foothold Traps
These come in a variety of sizes and even styles. There are single jaws (most common) and double jaws; toothed (think of the old bear traps) or smooth jaw; long spring or coil spring.
The long spring has single or double long springs which are made by “folding” a piece of spring metal over and then pinching it to allow the trap to be set. Tension is supplied by the animal stepping on the “pan” and releasing the lock, which allows the long spring to expand back to its “U” shape and thus applies pressure holding the trapped animal.
Coil spring traps use coil springs either in a double or 4 coil set up. The more coils, the stronger the traps strength to hold an animal, but too much strength can break a bone and thus allow the animal to tear off its foot and escape (thus the legend was born of animals “chewing” their leg off to escape a trap).
Trap sizes increase with the “number”. The added weight of the long springs is useful for drowning rig set ups, but coil spring traps are smaller for packing.
Body Grip (commonly referred to as connibear)
These traps are square in shape and they normally kill the prey upon capture. They utilize 1 or 2 springs and a single trigger/lock mechanism. They come in 3 common sizes, 110, 220, 330, size grows with the number.
Some manufacturers have “middle sizes as well, but they are not as common. When selecting these traps, read the description and choose the trap by the opening size (110 = 7inch by 7 inch opening; normally) and what you will need for the animals in your area for planning purposes.
I use 110’s for squirrel, muskrat, rabbit, etc. for planning purposes, 220 for raccoon, ground hog, fox, etc.; and 330 for beaver, coyote, really big raccoons, etc. Some reading this will wonder why I included foxes and coyotes but if you are secure in your homestead and something raids the chicken coop or garden plot; you may have to trap for varmint control as well as food.
No products found.
These handy gems can be bought already made or obtained by buying the different components and making custom
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...ip-300x200.jpgsized snares for game not normally trapped in today’s normal living conditions.No products found. are designed to catch an animal as it walks through the hoop of the snare and then being strangled. You can fix these to small saplings or branches being bent and anchored to a stake with a trigger device to spring back to their original position and creating a very fast choke or even breaking the neck of the prey.
Most modern snares are made from aircraft cable of 5/32 or 3/16 inch diameter. You can also use heavier gauge as long as it is pliable and you customize the hardware for the thicker cable. Snares can also be improvised from a variety of materials, fishing line being a natural choice.
I carry braided line with 60# test or higher for such purposes and also to use for limb lines. Regular sewing thread or light weight (2-4#) fishing line is useful for securing the snare to brush or fencing to keep its shape and stay in place once set.
Snares made from 6-10# fishing line works well for birds. For hiking in parts of Alaska and Canada (possibly other locations), it is required by law that you have a couple snares in your pack and the knowledge to use them.
Improvised Traps
These are the main types of animal traps used for trapping fur-bearers for their pelts. They can add immense possibilities to the prepper for putting food on the table if and when the need arises. Improvised traps are also very important; not only will they be used if caught in an emergency where you don’t have your kit, i.e. an aircraft crash since we can’t carry our kits as a carry on.
Deadfalls
Deadfalls are probably the best known and easiest to construct improvised trap. These are created by using an object or objects that weigh enough to kill the intended target by crushing it.
Rocks, trees, branches, cast off equipment or materials (bricks, sandbags, vehicle parts, etc.) can all be used for the weight. You balance the weight and attach the bait to a trigger, a type 4 trigger is the most common but takes practice to make, and when the animal pulls on the bait, it causes the weight to fall and crush it.
You can also use a manual trigger by attacking a string or rope to the brace and pulling the brace out manually once the target enters the “kill zone.” This can be practiced by using a laundry basket and catching birds in the back yard, great training and practice for the little ones and it will teach them patience and the need to be quiet and still.
The basket or a bucket can also be used in a survival situation to catch small animals in the same manner, just know that the target will still be alive and will need to be approached with care.
Pitfalls
Pitfalls or punji pits can also be used. These are simple in design but require a lot of work to make. By digging a hole deep enough and covering it so the target does not see it, they can be lured to the pit or dig it along a trail they travel.
The pit must be deep enough and/or lined so the target cannot climb or jump out. By adding punji stake (sharpened sticks) to the trap, you will injure, maim or kill whatever falls into the trap. This will help ensure the animal stays but can also become dangerous to unsuspecting people falling into the pit. These are also dangerous to livestock or pets, so use common sense and care when utilizing these traps.
Fish Traps
Fish traps are also a valuable commodity to use for gathering food. These are normally constructed on site, using natural
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...ap-300x200.jpgmaterials combined with brought items. By placing obstacles, sticks, rocks, boards, etc., in the waterway, you funnel the fish swimming through at a certain point. At this point, place a net and anything swimming through will be captured.You can also use fencing [poultry netting (chicken wire) works best for its pliability and small mesh size). Form the fencing into a cylindrical shape and fasten it together with cable ties, rope, tie wire, etc. After gauging the opening size, cut more of the fencing used to form a “funnel” to fit into the opening(s); if only 1 funnel is used, you must form a “wall” on the opposite end to secure the trap.
The funnel needs to extend into the trap about 1/8 – ¼ the length of the cylinder and reduce in size down to an opening that will allow the fish to swim in but not so big they can swim out extremely easy.
The idea is they will have room to swim out, but by having the funnel opening centered in the trap, most fish will miss the opening and not swim out. You may lose some, but the majority of any fish swimming in will be there when you check your traps.
You can add bait by attaching small bags filled with bait to the fencing. I like attaching mine to the bottom to get the fish to swim away from the opening of the funnel. A practice trap can be made by cutting a 2 liter pop (soda) bottle off just after it gets to its full size. By turning this around and inserting it into the body of the bottle with the pour spout inside the bottle, you now have a minnow trap to collect bait. Punch small holes through the bottom of the bottle and sides to allow water to flow through it.
I use a small rod of re-bar to anchor this to the creek bed. Secure the cut off portion with glue is best, but if the cut is made cleanly it can be held with friction. Place the opening to the upstream side, so water pressure will build and help hold the top in the bottle body. This will also give a visual of what a bigger trap made from fencing should look like. This type of trap will also catch crabs, lobster, crawdads and even some small marine mammals.
Traps can more than pay for themselves on the return of food and even pelts for clothing, pot holders, blankets, etc. in a survival situation. There are several books on the subject written by people with a lot more experience than me.
Practicing
If possible and legal to do so, practice trapping animals before the need arises and your learning curve means whether you and your family eat or not. You can get clips to hold body grip traps in the “set” position on the side of a tree. Bait the trigger wires with corn or nutmeats, even peanut butter, and squirrels will come to feast on your offering and roasted squirrel or stew is on the menu.
The clips are sold via trapper supply houses for marten and fisher trappers. The clips can also be improvised out of small pieces of conduit or pipe. The spring on the body grip trap can have a rope tied to it and secured to a branch so it will swing the trap and your catch away from the tree to keep scavengers from easily stealing your meal.
I carry a few premade snares, two 110 sized body grip traps and 1 #4, four coil trap in my rucksack or in my MOLLE vest. I also carry heavy weight (60# +) braided fishing line to improvise snares. I carry lighter weight fishing line for snares for birds or to use as sewing thread to repair clothes or gear. Remember to get repair parts for any traps you have and acquire the skill to repair them.
Fishing
There are several articles written, as well as countless books, on the subject of fishing. I will only briefly touch on the subject. I
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...ng-300x194.jpgrecommend using limb lines in a survival fishing situation.You use a heavy weight line and attach this to a very sturdy branch overhanging or very near the water source. I prefer one with a little flexibility to allow for the fish to fight without breaking or ripping the hook from its mouth. Limb lines can be utilized using normal store bought hooks or improvising natural materials into something to hold the fish.
“Skewer hooks” can be made easily and very quickly, even by a child. You take a piece of wood and sharpen both ends to a dull point. You can rough up the “barrel” of the wood to help hold the bait or even tie the bait on with string. You attach the line by tying it around the barrel in the center of the piece of wood. When the fish swallows the bait and the skewer, it will lodge in its throat or guts, depending on size of fish.
When you pull the line, it will cause the skewer to turn sideways and thus make an extremely strong hold on the fish allowing you to haul it in. If using limb lines in waters with a large turtle population, they can be used to catch turtles as well, but I would recommend using steel leaders to help keep the turtles from biting the line off.
Treble hooks work extremely well, but until used for a true survival situation, they are normally illegal, so check your local laws. You can also cut pantyhose down, tie it around the bait and use it to help keep fish from stealing the bait.
Safety pins and needles can also be used to adapt something from its intended purpose to use as a makeshift hook. These will not be barbed, so extra care is needed to maintain control over your fish once caught. I would also recommend buying and using cane poles even during routine fishing outings. I love my spin cast and bait cast reels coupled with a good rod, but if they break, a branch more closely resembles a cane pole than a $300 rod and reel combo.
Throw nets or casting nets are also valuable in obtaining fish. These do require practice, but the return can be very rewarding and the difference between a full belly and an empty one. I’d even try and obtain topo maps of the lakes, rivers, streams, etc. for the area you will be when the need arises. This will give you bottom structure and locations for optimum limb line locations.
Hunting
Several articles have been written and posted on hunting. This is the method most people plan on obtaining their meat in a
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...ng-300x200.jpgsurvival situation. Study the animals in your chosen area and learn all you can about their habits, food sources, activity cycles (nocturnal or diurnal), and home (burrows, nests, meadow, water, lodge (muskrat and beaver), etc.).Choose a weapon that will easily take the game animal but not ruin the meat; you do not want to hunt a rabbit with a .308 or a 12 gauge slug. A .22 long rifle will take most animals, even deer, with proper shot placement. Using a .22 LR is illegal to take certain game, so read game laws before using in a non survival situation.
If I was able to choose just 1 higher powered rifle, I would choose a .308 Win./7.62mm. They are available on an AR platform for those who want the self loader or even the battle proven M14 (Springfield’s M1A1). A bolt action would be fine or even a pump.
The reason I would choose the .308 is several fold; 1) They are a common caliber and ammunition will be available; 2) They have much more range and power over the .223/5.56mm, I can hunt medium game like antelope and deer with a .308 but would NOT want to tackle a moose, elk or bear with a .223; 3) The added firepower will allow me to keep the 2-legged varmints farther out of their preferred range and in the ranges I practiced at before I had to use it.
Optics are also a requirement in my opinion. A good survival rifle will have open iron sights as a backup, as scopes get broken, but optics allow for a more accurate shot placement when the adage of “every shot counts” is truly “gospel” in a survival situation.
Ammunition can be in very short supply and harvesting that game means you and yours eat is not the time to try shots that you can brag about, the only bragging that needs done will be when you carry in that nice venison haunch.
Blackpowder
Blackpowder weapons will be an excellent choice for a survival weapon if you also gain the knowledge to make your own
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...er-300x200.jpgblackpowder and cast your own lead balls. I would recommend a flintlock over percussion cap.Flint can be picked up in just about every corner of the US. By casting your own lead balls and making blackpowder, you can have a long term firearm to hunt with and conserve your center fire ammunition for real emergencies and self defense.
Muzzleloading weapons act and shoot differently than center fire weapons; flintlocks can have a “lag” between the time you pull the trigger and the time the powder actually ignites to propel the ball down the barrel. If you choose to use this type of survival tool, please get one as early as possible and practice to learn the intricacies of this traditional food gatherer.
Archery
Archery equipment, especially the knowledge on how to build self bows such as the Native Americans, would be a great asset. They are quiet, can take a multitude of game, can be replaced (if capable of making them) and arrows can be made also. Their use will save ammunition for self defense and extremely dangerous game (bears, mountain lions, wolves, feral dogs, etc.).
Slingshots
Do not underestimate the power and ability of a slingshot to put dinner on the table. It is easy to find ammunition; any rock will do and are perfect for the younger hunters.
They are quiet and capable hunters, especially when using lead round balls. They are modestly priced and found at almost every discount and department store. You can “store” vast amounts ammo for it and nobody be the wiser; just do some landscaping and use river rock instead of mulch.
Other Tools
Regardless of equipment and tactics, make sure you get as close as possible and take the sure shot. Those nice antlers only mean you can make another tool, while does and yearlings usually have more tender meat and are an easier quarry. Always choose the sure shot.
Other uncommon tools for hunting include, spears, air guns, boomerangs throwing sticks, and even a bolo. The biggest thing is to practice with whatever method(s) you choose so as to be an expert in their use as there is NO substitution for knowledge about your intended game animal(s).
Gathering
Gathering wild edibles will greatly enhance your meals and chance of survival. Several books are written and a must have at
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...ng-300x200.jpgleast in the survival retreat or Bug Out Location (BOL). I would also find a small one to keep in your Bug Out Bag (BOB) like the book from Judy of the Woods.Sassafras root makes a good tea and even chewing the leaves will cause saliva to be generated to help reduce thirst or just give you peace of mind from food, similar to chewing gum. Cattails are one of nature’s greatest survival gifts. You can eat the young shoots, the roots are like a potato, and even the seed (the part on top that gets to looking like a dusty corn cob) is a great flour additive, added to stew or can be eaten on its own.
Some other plants to learn and know are: Solomon’s Seal, May Apple, wild berries, any nut tree, pine needles (for tea), pine cones for pine nuts (place a “closed” pine cone near a fire and they will “open” to obtain the nuts/seeds inside), birch sap (can be made into a great syrup for your acorn pancakes), wild mint, swamp cabbage palm in the southern swamps, fish eggs, mushrooms, etc.
These items are edible in whole or in part and will provide extra flavor and much needed calories in an emergency. Please read books or find someone who can give precise instructions on edible plants and try them before it becomes necessary.
Remember, all bird eggs are edible; many are small but they will provide calories and much needed nutrients. Eggs dipped in wax can be held up to a month without refrigeration or spoilage. That little extra bird feed and the bird houses while times are good; could be a bountiful investment for when times get bad. I would also recommend books on wild herbs to help with the seasoning of food and natural medicine once the pharmacy is looted.
Gardening
Gardening has been covered in depth, so I will only add to the obvious benefit of growing food, the garden plot will bring in
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...ng-300x200.jpgwild game to trap or hunt. Also, planting fruit trees in advance will supply fresh fruit to the diet and animals will travel long distance to eat a sweet dessert like an apple.This will bring the game to you and thus reduce risk and visibility by having to venture further and further from your secure location. I would also think about establishing a pond for fish farming and if the space is available, digging deep ditches for irrigation and drawing animals for water. Dams can be used to control water depth.
Also, if able, a greenhouse will allow year round growing. You can add bee hives to the greenhouse and the bees will pollinate the crops and give you a natural sweetener. Honey also has many medicinal uses and when the going gets rough and many comfort items are no longer available, who wouldn’t want something sweet to help boost morale?
Livestock
Raising livestock is also important, but does require land to use as pasture. Goats would be a prime animal, they will supply
https://survivalcache.com/wp-content...ck-300x200.jpgmeat, milk and depending on the breed, wool to make cloth from. This all takes more knowledge and land, which some of us may or may not have.Poultry will help eat bugs in the garden, supply meat and eggs, act as an alarm system (geese and guineas), eat weeds from the garden (geese), and can supply down for quilts if the situation turns into a truly long term event.
These are but suggestions to stimulate ideas and comments from others to bring a more balanced and as close to full thought process on the subject of feeding ourselves in the worst of times.
Everyone’s location and access to land and other resources will dictate how we must personalize any ideas to meet our needs, abilities, and resources; not all can afford to dig ditches and a pond or have the land to do so. I hope I have helped some or maybe caused others to think in a direction they had not thought of.
My purpose is to give basics to those who are starting, maybe add some insight to those who have not been able to experience some of these skills, and caused the experienced to share their ideas or knowledge in comments of things they have actually tried or even heard of so the group gains the knowledge to try or research tricks or skill sets that will help them survive.
Summary
I have eaten ground hog, raccoon, snake, fish, alligator, squirrel, rabbit, beaver, muskrat, crawdad, crabs, lobster, wild boar, deer, moose, elk, bear and even a rat to cover most of my vittles in the past.
Those who hunt, try carrying your day-pack and other gear (where legal) while doing so. This will allow you to see how it affects your shooting and whether the game animal will be spooked by what you have.
Sound is your enemy, so tie everything down secure. When squirrel hunting, I wear my MOLLE vest, carry my emergency survival gear and a sidearm (especially handy because of the feral dog problem). I hunt with either a 22 LR rifle (normal) or pellet gun.
This allows me to continually improve my ability to move quietly through the woods while wearing the extra gear I will have when the situation(s) we prep for become a reality. Also, if you have them, take the kids; the younger the better. They will learn to move quietly and be still, get satisfaction in knowing they helped “earn” their dinner and it creates a bond not easily broken.
If you find it difficult to be patient with them when only a successful hunt is on the line; how will you react when the very meal you MUST have is cost? Each child is different and will handle the experience differently. You must decide when they are ready to see an animal harvested and then again when they are ready to witness the butchering process. I prefer skinning and gutting my game in the field, innards stink when in your garbage at home, but in the survival situation, they become bait for traps or fishing.
Animal stomachs, turned inside out and washed very thoroughly, make excellent pouches and/or water bags. Learn to skin the game as cleanly and whole as possible to save the pelt. Rabbit fur is soft and works well for mittens, ear muffs, etc.; ground hog hide is extremely tough and makes good leather lace.
Stay Alert, Stay Alive
Regulator5
Resources and recommended authors and sites:
BOOKS:
Mantrapping by Ragnar Benson
Ragnar’s 10 Best Traps by Ragnar Benson
Fox Trapping Methods – Russ Carman
Trapping North American Furbearers– Stanley Hawbaker
Completion Line Fox Trapping – Tom Miranda
The Trapper's Bible– Dale Martin
Long Term Survival in the Coming Dark Age – James Ballou
North America Plant Foraging Guide – Judy of the Woods
Resources
Cherokee By Blood (recipes)
Website on making Pemmican
Paladin Press – books on many topics
Simple Green Living– website and store catering to self sufficiency and homesteading.
Mother Earth News
Hoosier Trapper Supply– trapping and hunting supplies
Blue Ridge Outdoor Supply– trapping supplies
F&T Trapping Supply– trapping supplies
Mountain Man Trapping Supply-trapping supplies
Cumberland’s Northwest trapper’s Supply– trapping supplies
Sullivan’s Line– trapping supplies and forum
Here are other relevant articles:
- Survival Eating: Part 2
- How To Make Beef Jerky In A Dehydrator
- Fishing Basics 101: How to Get Started Fishing for Survival
Survival Eating - Survival Cache
Survival Cache
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The 7 Types of Gear you must have in your Bug Out Bag
http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...ug-Out-Bag.gif Bug Out Bag
For someone new to being a Survivalist building your first Bug Out Bag can seem like a big task. Everybody you read about has been tweaking theirs for months or even years and has a pile of gear built up. It’s hard to know where to start, but if you cover all of the basics in a survival situation you will still be much better off that 99% of the people.
A Bug Out Bag, (also called a BOB, Get Out of Dodge Bag, GOOD, or 72 Hour Bag) is usually designed to get you out of an emergency situation and allow you to survive self-contained for up to 3 days. A lot of people plan their Bug Out Bag to sustain them for much longer than that, but there is always a limit to what you can carry on your back and a 3 day target is a good place to start.
Here are the 7 basic types of gear you will need for your Bug Out Bag:
1. Water
http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/.../TakeWater.gifIt should go without saying that water is a survival basic for any situation. In a survival situation water quickly becomes the most precious commodity.
1 Liter per day per person is really the bare minimum. So your 3 day Bug Out Bag should have at least 3 liters of water.
To expand your capability or survive longer than a couple of days you will need a water purification system. This can be as simple as boiling water and iodine tablets, or a serious water filter.
- You can use a Collapsible Water Bottle for extra storage.
- Make water collection easier with a Backpacking Bucket.
- Use Coffee Filters to extend the life of your water filtration system.
- Find out How Bottled Water Can Improved Your Bug Out Bag
2. Food
http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...kPackMeals.gif Backpack Meals
For a 3 Day Bug Out Bag Backpack Meals and Energy Bars can be sufficient. Back pack meals are freeze dried meals that you just add boiling water to. They are light weight and last a long time.
Obviously you will need a longer term food solution in any type of wide area catastrophe, but for your basic Bug Out Bag backpack meals are a good set up.
3. Clothing
http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...ikingBoots.gif Your Bug Out Bag clothes should be similar to what you would pack for a weekend backpacking trip.
- A pair of sturdy boots or shoes
- A pair of long pants (preferably not blue jeans)
- 2 Pairs of socks (preferably not cotton)
- 2 Shirts (Maybe 1 long sleeve and 1 short sleeve for layering)
- A Jacket that is both warm and protection from rain
- Warm long underwear of some kind
- A hat
- A Bandana (30 Uses for a Bandana)
This list could go on for a while and many people would never dream of leaving their Bug Out Bag without twice that much, but in a pinch that set up could get you by for 3 days.
Be sure to plan for the weather in your area: Do You have Seasonal Clothes in Your Bug Out Bag
4. Shelter
http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...1/TarpTent.gif They Don't have a ground tarp...
If you are going to survive for 3 days you are going to need protection from the elements and a warm dry place to sleep. You need at least:
- Some type of tent or tarp and a way to set it up
- A ground tarp for underneath your shelter to stay dry or a sleeping pad (Never underestimate the importance of this)
- Some type of Bedroll, preferably a good sleeping bag.
5. First Aid Kit
http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...irstaidkit.gifTrying to cover everything you need in your Bug Out Bag First Aid Kit is another article entirely to itself, probably several more. I won’t try to cover it because I would surely leave something out.
What I will do is recommend that you build your own First Aid Kit instead of buying one of those prepackaged first aid kits that claim to have 1001 things to get you through any emergency. While some are ok, in my experience these types of kits are usually filled with a lot of stuff you are unlikely to need and not enough of the things you will probably need a lot of.
Plus, building your own first aid kit gives you an intimate knowledge of what it contains and how to use it. How many people buy one of those pre-made set ups and just assume they are prepared because there’s so much crap in it there must be what I need? Bad Idea.
First Aid Gear: Have a Sawyer Extractor for Poisonous Snake Bites
6. Basic Gear
http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...01/matches.gifBasic Gear sounds repetitive (what have I been talking about?) but it is my category for the things you absolutely cannot live without but don’t really fit well into another category. Many survivalists will not like this list because it is not exhaustive by any means, but again I will say: It will be enough to get you by for a couple of days.
Rain Gear – at least 2 ways to stay dry in the rain. Poncho and Coat are good coupled with your Tent/Shelter
Fire – A bare minimum of 3 different ways to make fire. I wrote more about this here: Do You have 5 Ways to Make Fire? With that you can get a flame but you will have to actually build the fire up too: 5 Ideas for Fire Tender.
You’re also going to need something to cut your firewood and a knife uses too much energy long term: Choosing the Best Survival Chainsaw
Cooking – Bare minimum here is a small pot/large cup to boil water in for both drinking and freeze dried meals. A small backpacking stove and fuel are better.
Light – At least 2 dependable flashlights and a backup set of batteries for each.
Survival Knife – The most used and most versatile tool in your Bug Out Bag is your survival knife. I wrote more about this here: 7 Things You Should Consider before Choosing Your Survival Knife
7. Weapons
http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...01/glock19.gifThe fact of the matter is you are might be dealing with a “Without Rule of Law” situation, or close to it, and people are likely to do crazy things. Being prepared to defend yourself is part of the survivalist mindset.
Obviously a firearm of some sort is best for this. (Though not in all situations) I will not go into specifics about what type of gun you should bring because that is hotly debated and really a personal choice. Take what is comfortable to you.
Outside of guns your survival knife could be used as weapon if you had to. Also something as simple as a big walking stick or club can be a strong deterrent for bad guys. It’s all about giving yourself options.
More about Survival Weapons:
The Survival Shotgun Part 1: 6 Reasons You Need One
The Top 7 Ruger 10/22 Accessories for Survival Readiness
5 Dollar Preps – Gun Cleaning and Sewing
Once you get these basics covered you can begin to test and refine your Bug Out Bag with other useful gear and prepare it for longer term survival situations.
Check out our new Survival Gear Store – Forge Survival Supplyhttp://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...0x125-01-H.pngI recently started building my own Bug Out Bag and writing about everything I am packing: Starting My Bug Out Bag
Bug Out Bag – The 7 Types of Gear You Must Have to Survive
Essential Bug Out Gear
http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...ear_Review.jpg Admittedly I watch a lot of outdoor television programming. For Christmas this past year my wife got me the upgraded programming on cable so I could receive outdoors television basically 24/7/365.
By Dr. John J. Woods, a contributing author to SurvivalCache.com
I enjoy watching the different location venues, and the behaviors of the big game being pursued including everything from wild hogs to elephants, but I am especially into whitetails. It also helps to keep survival prepping thoughts in mind, too.
Prepping Gear Bags
One of the curious things I take note of when watching these hunting and game pursuit television shows is the gear the participants use, but more specifically all the stuff they tote afield. To me it looks like some of these guys are carrying hiking packs with enough gear to set up camp for a week.
In a SHTF or Bug Out scenario it could easily turn into that very quickly. I’d love to know what all is stowed in those duffle bag sized packs they carry on a single day’s hunt. It might help us orient our own planning for Bug Out or just weekend trips to our escape hide outs, or even items to add to our Bug In plans.
My individual preference is to use the base camp, staging area, or a vehicle as the center point of my outreach operations. From http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/..._you_need1.jpgthere I pack out a smaller bag with essentials for the day once I know what the agenda is going to be. I usually tend to take too much “stuff” but I work by the old philosophy of “I’d rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.” Even then, it seems I inevitably forget something. In one of my prep planning drawers I must have a half dozen gear lists to pack for different scenarios not counting what stays packed all the time for the ready.
All this still begs the question of what should go in a field gear box, backpack or carried on the individual. Naturally much of this is personal preference. However, here, I want to recommend for consideration several items I have been in the process of field testing and using over the past year. They are all great and suitable for SHTF events.
The utility of each item is relatively simple and doesn’t really require a lengthy individual field test report, so I felt the best approach was to include them all in one report. All of these items though are worthy of consideration to put in your hunting gear pack box, bug out bag, hunting pack or otherwise carried.
Otis Zombie Gun Cleaning System
Whether hunting for food, zombies, wild hogs, sighting in at the range or conducting perimeter security, it never hurts to have a http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...tem_Review.jpglightweight, complete gun cleaning kit along. Such a kit comes no simpler than the Otis “Zombie” Gun Cleaning System. The Zombie tag simply being a trendy marketing ploy, but it also generically translates into deadbeats that want to steal your stuff during a societal or natural breakdown event.
This compact all-in-one zippered soft case unit can take care of basic gun cleaning tasks for firearms chambered for the 5.56mm (.223), 9mm, 40 and 45 caliber pistols plus 12 gauge shotguns. This is going to cover a lot of guns. To be honest, any kit able to handle these calibers is also going to work for most large caliber hunting rifles like the .270, 30-06, 308, and such.
Included in the Otis system are 8 and 30-inch flex cables for breech-to-muzzle cleaning, five bronze bore brushes, a rubberized patch saver, specialized cleaning tools, and a tube of cleaning solvent all in a soft pack with a convenient belt loop. On the waist or in a pack the kit is great for cleaning out mud from a muzzle dropped weapon.
Medical Adventure First Aid Kit
Sure, it will never happen to you. One of the worst knife cuts I ever saw was when a hunting friend was trying to gut a deer in the http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...2_0_review.jpgwinter. We had nothing to wrap it with. If it had not been freezing, he might have lost that finger.
Every prepper ought to carry some basic first aid items in every field box or pack. The 2.0 kit I have includes a howler whistle, compass, antiseptic wipes, assorted bandages, dressings, tape, sterile pads, gloves, blister moleskin, elastic bandage, cold pack, scissors, safety pins, and a variety of medications. This comes complete in a zippered nylon bag that is easy to pack.
The package says this is enough first aid and medical gear for 1-4 people for 1-4 days. It retails for $23.00 from Adventure Medical Kits. Other kits are available, too (click here).
S4 Gear – Lockdown Optics Deployment System
I broke my best Pentax binoculars on an elk hunt in Colorado when they slipped off my shoulder on a steep climb and smashed into ahttp://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...ics_Review.jpg boulder. Prior to the fall, they were around my neck flailing around like a wounded wild turkey.
The S4 Gear’s Lockdown optics system holds your optics securely and completely protected in a secure pouch with cover. The binoculars are connected to shock cord security straps. The shoulder strap system fits snuggly but is not restrictive in movement or mounting a long gun. The Lockdown comes in two sizes. Check them out at www.hunting.s4gear.com.
S4 Evo Sidewinder (Next Generation – Dummy Chord)
This is one of the next generations of tether technologies designed to attach a single piece of critical gear to an extension cord http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...ew-199x300.jpgretractor device capable of clipping on a person or a backpack, etc. The Evo Sidewinder is a uniquely engineered piece of gear they call a “retractable gear deployment system.”
The “retractor pod” attaches to say a rangefinder, a radio, GPS, or small optic via an adhesive sticky pad and/or a secure strap that locks around the item. The pod then slides into the Sidewinder’s base unit where it is held until withdrawn.
The base is equipped with a secured, lockable claw clip that can be rotated to one of four 90-degree positions depending on the placement requirements on a person, pack, harness, or other attachment point. Other accessories are available as well. Anyone walking, hiking, hunting, conducting security work, or observation will quickly appreciate the Evo Sidewinder’s utility.
McNett Gear Aid Field Repair Kit
I have seen a lot of neat products in my day, but the McNett series of Gear Aid kits tops the list. There are several types or levels of kits available from the Explorer to the standard Tent Repair Kit, a Sewing Kit, and a Camper Kit. Each kit contains some different items or amounts of repair items. Each kit is designed to help outdoors people effect quick repairs on essential gear in the field.
I have the Explorer Field Repair Kit in hand and the stuff in it is amazing to include four categories of repair items such as gear repairhttp://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...kit_Review.jpg supplies, buckle kit, adhesive and fabric patches, and a sewing kit. In total there are 27 items in the nylon zippered bag that only weighs 7 ounces loaded.
Example of repairs that can be done with this kit include gluing boot soles, fixing a broken zipper, seal a leak in an sleeping air pad, replacing a bad buckle, or fixing a busted tent pole. One of the kits in a field box, camping gear bag, or bug out bag will take care of most common place gear failures in the field. Check them all out at www.mcnett.com.
Carson Lens Cleaning Tools
The point of quality optics of course is being able to see clearly through them. Have you ever been afield or needed optics during a http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...kit_review.jpgsnow storm or a wind driven sand blow or an early morning in the South with high humidity. I rest my case.
These Carson lens cleaning tools are small and compact, but essential for keeping optical glass clean on the bench or in the field. They are simple plastic handles with a cleaning pad on one end. The special pad removes smudges, prints, dust, and dirt, as well as moisture. I find it best to blow off lenses first, dry them off with a clean cotton handkerchief then clean them with a Carson Tool.
These lens tools do not contain alcohol or ammonia. They are suitable for cleaning cameras, binoculars, spotting scopes, and firearm scopes. They are small and lightweight fitting into a pack side pocket or shirt pocket. Examine them at www.carsonoptical.com.
Frontier Emergency Water Filter System
On every trip afield I carry water. I have also run out of water on hunting or observation trips. The Frontier Emergency Water Filterhttp://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...ew-199x300.jpg System by Aquamira is a simple design created for filtering up to 20 gallons of water under emergency conditions in the field. I discussed this with Aquamira and all of their filters are designed to filter double the amount of water that is on the label. So in a pinch, you could probably get closer to 40 gallons of water through this straw depending on the quality of water you start with.
The tube filter takes out 99 percent of Giardia and Cryptosporidium commonly found in water sources even in mountainous areas where streams seem to be running crystal clear and clean. Don’t trust it. This filter will handle it.
You will hardly notice this filter in your bag at one ounce. It is a plastic tube into which an included special drinking straw tube is inserted in one end. The other end is put into the water source and then water is drawn up as with any straw. Every gear kit bag should have one. More information is available at www.aquamira.com.
Conclusion
As mentioned from the get-go, any Bug Out gear kit or bag can contain a myriad of equipment and gear items. Most of the final choices are based on personal choices for the type of trek being planned, duration, terrain, weather, and other input factors.
I can highly recommend these products outlined here for use in your Survival Cache gear box or backpack. You may not ever need them, but then again you just might.
All Photos by Dr. John J. Woods
Essential Bug Out Gear
Survival Gear Review: FLIR Scout PS series
http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/..._PS_Review.jpg
Admittedly seeing thermal images in the stark of night is cool. Even in a limited product test mode, my mind was going wild conjuring up the multiple uses for such a tool. I was given the opportunity for a month to check out the FLIR Scout PS series handheld thermal imaging unit.
By Dr. John J. Woods, a contributing author to SurvivalCache.com
I wish it had been the open hunting season, but just think of the opportunities during SHTF events or a night time Bug Out. Without a doubt thermal imaging brings a whole new dimension to viewing live animals or other objects emitting heat that are picked up by the Scout. The prospects for using thermal imaging are endless when it comes to hunting and other applications such as security work within your Bug Out area or around the neighborhood of our Bug In.
Uses for Thermal
The more obvious uses for preppers having thermal imaging capability include game management/herd surveys, wildlife http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...ES_REVIEW1.jpg observations, security, Bug Out camp law enforcement applications, searching for livestock, camper/hiker/preppers traversing trails at night, tracking downed game, or watching territory invaders.
For survival enthusiasts, the uses should seem more obvious. Walking or riding hide out areas at night just to survey or patrol the area has its own benefits. Anything that emits a heat signal will be picked up by the FLIR Scout. Checking out game or other critters four-footed or two would be awesome.
It also works great for spying fields, food plots, and open trails for active observational spotting. The Scout PS will spot man-sized targets out as far as 500 yards. It also works through light fog, smoke, or dust.
FLIR PS Scout Specs
The Scout PS is a lightweight, handheld device similar to a monocular optical scope. The unit is held securely by an adjustable hand strap like a compact video camera. It is easy to use, hold steady and very portable at only 12 ounces. The unit recharges via a supplied USB cable.
The unit itself is ruggedly designed covered in a soft cushion-like material that will take field bumps, but more importantly is really easy to grasp even when wet. The design was well thought out for the user in terms of ergonomics, and grip-ability, if that is a word.
The operational control buttons are on top of the unit in a row. Once the user learns
which button does what, it becomes second http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...rmal_Image.jpg nature to turn on and adjust. The FLIR web site has excellent tutorial video guides for learning to use the PS Thermal Camera.
The PS series thermal unit can “see” heat in two modes including white hot, and black hot. In use I preferred the white hot mode. This simply means that the heat signature showing up on the screen is white as opposed to everything else being white in the background while the heat object picked up is black. It’s a matter of personal preference I guess. The white hot mode seemed clearer to me and easier to see detail.
The FLIR PS in Use
FLIT Scout units are in such high demand for product testing by writers that I only had a short time to use the unit in the field. I took the Scout to my Bug Out camp on an overnight trip. We built a huge fire in the campfire ring out in front of the cabins to give me a base of operation to work from.
Then I set out to walk down the main camp road. I switched on the unit and changed the imaging to the white hot mode. The PS immediately began to pick up heat signatures that I would not have expected. Though it was 9 PM the tree line around camp was still emitting heat from the sunlight of the day. That was cool.
The campfire of course lit up the Scout viewing screen in red hot color. I could also easily see my campmate sitting in his chair by the fire. This was from over a hundred yards away. I picked up all types of heat escapes from the cabin as well.
I continued to stroll further from camp down the road. Next I spotted a small animal on the ground roughly 50 yards out in front of http://survivalcache.com/wp-content/...ope_review.jpg me. The image was so clear it was easy to determine the animal was a rabbit. Its entire body was shown in mostly bright white in the viewer, but more particular the rabbit’s eyes were a brilliant white.
I crept up closer and closer until I was within ten yards of it. My footsteps in the gravel road must have finally startled it as it ran into the woods. Neat. Next I heard a bird chirping up over my head, and when I put the PS on it, it too, appeared glowing white. This proved to me just how sensitive the FLIR-PS is.
Alas I did not spot any deer with the unit, but if they had been out, I am quite sure their heat visibility would have been spectacular. I learned enough with my limited testing time to appreciate the value of having the capability to read thermal images in the wild at night. Just imagine scouting your protected area with a unit like this.
At a retail price of $1999 (Amazon $1,899), the FLIR PS would be a welcomed piece of gear for a prepper or settled survivalists. The Scout PS would also be helpful in spotting trespassers or poachers where they should not be. Also if game were lost or wounded, the Scout would be great for those tracking efforts after dark. Thus, the FLIR Scout is certainly a recommended piece of high tech gear every SurvivalCache participant could use if it fits your budget.
Photos by: Dr. John J. Woods
FLIR
Survival Gear Review: FLIR Scout PS series