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How to Build and Stock a Prepper Pantry
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The Rule of Three states that in three weeks without food the average person dies from starvation. The reality is that if you are still alive, hunger and malnutrition severely limit your ability to function. To not only survive but thrive during a long-term emergency, you need food. The key is a well-thought-out and well-organized prepper pantry.
A prepper pantry provides the depth and breadth of calories and nutrition required to help you endure a variety of emergencies. From short-term interruptions such as weather events to long-term grid-down events, your pantry needs to cover you.
A prepper pantry means convenience and safety. Life-saving convenience, that is. Your pantry saves you from deciding between letting your family starve and a dangerous foraging trip into the wilds.
Let’s look at how to build and stock a prepper pantry to keep you and your family safe.
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What is a Prepper Pantry?
A prepper pantry is more than a pile of food, left neglected in a corner of your basement. A prepper pantry is a well-thought-out and maintained food pantry of shelf-stable goods. Further, the contents you specifically select should be suitable for use both in normal times and for times of disaster.
These critical supplies include dry goods such as beans, rice, oats, flour, pasta, corn, and cornflour. Canned goods include vegetables, fruits, soups, and stews. Proteins for your prepper pantry can include canned meat such as beef, pork, ham, tuna, and chicken and also include chili and other mixes.
Don’t neglect fats! Include oils, lard, and nut butter. Sugars can include white and brown sugar, honey, and jellies. Finally, there are a few miscellaneous items, such as potato flakes, dried milk, protein powders, electrolyte drinks, salt, and spices.
Oh, and don’t forget the water!
At its very core, a prepper pantry is a personal grocery store. Grocery stores have turned the maintenance of large stocks of food into a science. They select foods that are most appealing to their customers, will last on the shelves until they are needed, and rotate them, ensuring that they stock the shelves with the freshest product possible.
This is your goal. Set aside space for food that you like to eat. Select foods that will last, e.g., that are nonperishable. Rotate those foods constantly and consistently.
Let’s look at the keys for building up your prepper pantry.
How to Organize Your Prepper Pantry
Any large collection of goods needs to be organized. Failure to organize can lead to over-buying, under-buying, or loss because of expiration or spoilage. You must develop an organizational scheme that spends your money wisely, reduces your time spent searching and sorting, and reduces the risk of forgetting about what you have stored.
Expiration Dates
First, a quick note about expiration dates. Most dates provided on food these days are actually “Best By” dates. As this day approaches and passes, the food does not expire. The date is how the manufacturer ensures that the food is at its peak taste and nutrition. As the food goes beyond the date, nothing happens.
Let me say that again. Best By dates are not magical dates beyond which the food turns instantly nasty and deadly.
It is perfectly ok to eat a can of beans, or corn, or Spam soon after the Best By date. I am a living testament to eating expired food. It’s up to you to determine your tolerance for past-date food. One month, one year, one decade. It’s your call.
As with food before the listed date, always use your senses. Check the can for defects, including rust spots and especially bulging. If your can or jar lid has these, then toss the can. Once opened, make sure that the smell is ok, the food looks ok, and any liquids are appropriately clear and not off-color. Again, if there are any signs of spoiling, then toss it.
I strive to have a pantry full enough that I’m always eating food at or shortly after the stamped date. Assuming that most Best By dates are one-year post-manufacture, I, therefore, have a one-year supply of that specific food in the pantry. Effect this across an entire pantry and I have a great start at a year’s worth of food.
Working Pantry
Lay your food stores out as a “working pantry”. This means that you are pulling foods from it with regularity.
There are several benefits to this process.
If you lock your pantry away in a forgotten corner, you won’t visit it, you won’t check the contents, you won’t find any issues that may crop up. There are situations for this type of food storage, but your prepper pantry is not one of them.
Next, as you regularly pull from your pantry, you invariably review what you have and what condition it is in. You notice bulging cans and long-expired food. Shortages are clear. Excesses are apparent.
Finally, when you pull cans or boxes from the pantry, you create a plan to replace them. Even better, add before you delete. This creates a constant rotation of the items in your pantry. Everything is as fresh as possible.
FIFO: First In First Out
The next step is physical organization. The first can, box, or bag stored is the first one that is pulled out. This FIFO (first in first out) use ensures that you are always using the oldest sample in your pantry. Every can behind the front can is newer.
You achieve this process via FIFO storage racks or via date labeling and smart usage. FIFO racks allow you to add to the top and pull from the bottom. They are the easiest way to enforce FIFO usage. Their cost is moderate, but they are worth it if you have the room.
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Labeling is a low-cost solution. Simply mark each case or can with the purchase date and always put the newest can\case in the back of the stack. This requires a little more discipline, but it’s free.
In my case, we have two pantries. The first is all case goods. Any open cases move to the “short” pantry. The open cases are always the oldest in the pantry and they are physically separated. This creates a gap in the main pantry. Any item that isn’t full to the top requires a shopping trip.
Finally, in our FIFO stacks, we clearly separate the goods. All the corn is in one spot, canned sauces in another. Proteins are separate from the veggies, which are separate from the fruits.
Related: How to Build a DIY Rotating Canned Food Storage System
Restocking
A prepper pantry requires restocking. As you use it, restock it. Otherwise, your shelves will be bare when you most need them.
There will be two phases to building up your pantry. The first is the process of filling the pantry to capacity. We will talk about this in the next section. Once you are there, you need to keep it full.
Regardless of your selected capacity, you need to keep the pantry full. Every time you draw from the pantry, refill it. In our case, the act of opening a case of mushrooms, olives, or tuna means it is removed from the pantry. This results in two actions.
First, it creates a visible gap in the pantry. What should be full is now depleted. Next, we add that item to the list. This ensures that the moment we use something, it gets filled during the next trip. The result is a household that is full as it can be. Fill in every gap at the next opportunity.
How to Build Your Prepper Pantry
Ok, you have the space, the organizational plan, now it’s time to stock it up. First question. What do you stock it with?
What Do You Eat
First, stock foods you eat and like. A basement of beans and rice do you no good if you don’t like them. Prefer pancakes for breakfast? Several bagged brands store for years and only require water. Stack these high and deep. Prefer potato and corn over green beans and asparagus? Buy potatoes by the case and avoid the green beans.
Let’s be realistic. If you don’t like it, you won’t eat it. Hunger is the best spice, but this only goes so far. Worse yet, food fatigue will drive you away from things you like given enough time. Make sure that your pantry includes variety.
One of the best ways to manage this is through spices. I specifically dedicate valuable shelf space to spices. Is new basil better than year old basil? Yup! But plain rice day in and day out will fatigue your pallet. I’ll take rice seasoned with old basil over a plate of plain rice just to have the variety.
Next, make sure to include the raw components of everyday meals. This includes four, sugar, oils, and salt. They are easy to forget when you are focusing on canned goods.
Also, stack up the treats. Life is too short to live without chocolate! Get a few bags.
Store What You Eat
In order to identify what food supplies to store, look at your current cupboards. Even better, keep a log for 30 days of EVERYTHING you eat.
Breakfast, lunch, dinner, add every item to the list. Keep a log of types and quantities. Use this to identify how much you need for a month and extrapolate to six months or longer.
Second, fill it with shelf-stable foods. This includes canned and dry goods. Ideally, you will use foods with a shelf life of a year or a Best By date that is a year out.
Third, add variety. Much of the world lives on little more than beans and rice. That doesn’t mean that you have to. It also doesn’t mean that it’s a healthy diet plan.
Nutritional variety is the key to thriving during a long-term emergency. You may have your favorite food, but is it balanced?
Try to strive for width rather than depth. It’s tempting to load up on cases of potatoes when they go on sale in the fall, but eating only starches creates a nutritional debt that can be hard to fill. Instead of four cases of potatoes, get two and then two of the other vegetables.
Pantry Sources
I recommend the grocery store as your main source of prepper pantry goodies. However, feel free to expand into other areas to add both flavor and utility. Our pantry has a few months of canned and boxed goods from the local grocery store, but that’s not all.
It also has a month or two of freeze-dried emergency foods and components. We have several meals represented (stews, mac and cheese, etc.) as well as individual vegetables, fruits, and desserts. Please note, these are expensive, but we’ve been able to hit the sales and built the stores up over the years.
Finally, don’t forget about canning your own prepper pantry supplies. We water bath can, pressure can, and dehydrate. Our water bathed favorites include veggies from the garden, jellies, jams, fruits as pie fillings, and a few foraged mushrooms.
Pressure canning is where we stack up the proteins. Chicken, pork, and stews too numerous to count augment the commercially purchased goods.
Keep it Safe
Canned goods are protected as long as they don’t get dented or wet. Boxed goods require a bit more protection.
If your storage area is free of pests and humidity, that’s great. In our case, the occasional mouse has forced us to store all paper-packed goods in plastic totes. This has kept the losses to almost zero over the past decade.
Protect bagged items such as dried beans and rice in totes or 5-gallon buckets. If you can smell through the container, so can mice and other critters. If in doubt, use 5-gallon buckets. They are cheap, strong, and stackable. Keep your food safe!
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Next, choose a cool storage environment. The lower the temp, the longer you increase the shelf life. 50-60 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal. If you are storing in your basement and it gets a little humid, run a dehumidifier.
You will eventually build up quite the investment in your prepper pantry. Take care of it! The pantry represents a significant investment in money and time!
How to Stock Up Your Prepper Pantry
So you know what to buy, and how to build your pantry. Assuming you aren’t made of money, do it over time! There’s no reason to go into debt over your survival pantry.
Copy Canning
Start with copy canning. This is the process of buying a little extra each trip to the store. If you normally buy one can of soup, copy that and buy two. Every trip, invest a little extra in filling up your pantry.
Building a pantry one or two cans at a time may feel slow. That’s because it is. That’s fine.
Look at it this way. After each trip to the store, you are one or two meals ahead. After a month, you are five to six. Within a year, you are ahead by a month.
What would an unprepared family do to be in your position when the grid fails? Take pride in every can you put on the shelf!
Sales and Coupons
Next, hit the sales! Foods, including most vegetables, have a season.
Every fall, the harvest comes in. This means that when the new batch is ready, there is a push to move out the old product. Every fall, our local stores cut the prices of most canned fruits and vegetables drastically.
Leading up to the fall, put a few dollars away in anticipation of the big sales. When they hit, buy big. It’s a great way to stretch your dollar and fill your pantry.
For other more expensive items such as freeze-dried foods, be patient. I’ve never purchased freeze-dried food at less than a 50% discount. Do I have everything I want in the quantities I want? No. But I have quite a lot and I’ve saved up to 75%. That being said, it’s taken me five years to get to a comfortable spot with this part of my pantry.
Finally, stretch your family dollar with coupons. Grab the Sunday fliers, join the local stores’ buyers club and target the discounts.
Make a habit of selectively choosing the brands that you can save a little on. Soon the ability to buy a single can becomes the ability to buy two or three.
The goal is to buy smartly! Before you know it, your prepper pantry will be full and you’ll be investing in a new shelf system to take you from one month to three!
Closing Up The Prepper Pantry
Canned goods, boxed pasta, bulk beans, and rice, freeze-dried meals, and meals ready to eat (MREs) all have a place in your long-term storage. Taking a methodical approach to building up your prepper pantry does not need to be expensive, daunting, or confusing.
Buy what you already eat. Shop when these items are on sale. Buy a little extra every trip. Organize your shelves. Eat the oldest foods first. These are simple rules to follow.
Given a few months of following these easy tasks and you’ll be a little farther ahead every week. It’s like the old adage. How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time. How do you store a month’s worth of food? One can at a time!
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Bonus: Root Cellar That Can Be Used as a Bunker
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Do you remember the old root cellars our great-grandparents used to have? In fact, they probably built it themselves, right in their back yard.
If you want to learn how to build a backyard bunker like your grandparents had, without breaking the bank, then you need Easy Cellar.
Easy Cellar will show you:
- How to choose the ideal site
- Cost-effective building methods
- How to protect your bunker from nuclear blast and fallout
- How to conceal your bunker
- Affordable basic life support options
Easy Cellar will also reveal how a veteran, with only $421, built a small nuclear bunker in his backyard.
Also included:
- America's Natural Nuclear Bunkers: Find the Closest One to Your Home
- 56 Items to Stockpile in Your Easy Cellar
How to Build and Stock a Prepper Pantry - SHTFPreparedness
HAM Radio for Preppers: The Complete Guide
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SHTFPreparedness may collect a share of sales or other compensation from the links on this page.
If the grid fails, it will take our ability to communicate with it. Everyone outside walking distance will fade to memories if we can no longer reach out. The convenience of simply picking up a phone to communicate will suddenly vanish. This HAM radio guide for preppers will re-open communication channels around the block and around the world.
way too much to post; go to the link to view it
HAM Radio for Preppers: The Complete Guide (2021 Update) - SHTF Prep (shtfpreparedness.com)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drzIXXMwy5I
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Survival Food – 56 Long-Term Survival Foods and Supplies at the Grocery Store
Robert Richardson Food & Water, Food Self-Sufficiency, Preparedness: Preparing for Emergencies and Disasters 502
When disaster strikes, there’s a pretty good chance your local grocery stores are going to be stripped bare in a matter of hours. From panicked people trying to stock up on last-minute supplies to those who failed to prepare for even short-term disasters and now find themselves facing the prospect of starving, your local grocery store is going to look like a battleground in a post-apocalyptic movie.
Most grocery stores have a maximum 3 day supply of goods on hand before they run dry. That means even short-term disasters like hurricanes, floods, and earthquakes can cause supply chain problems that will quickly wipe out their inventory. Now throw in a long-term disaster that cuts off supplies for months, and you have a real recipe for disaster.
To be prepared to face an emergency situation where supply chains start to fail and food supplies are blocked, you need to invest in a long-term food supply. This supply should be made up of six months’ worth of emergency food that has a long shelf-life and is something that you already eat.
With the help of suggestions that have come in from our readers, we have compiled a list of the top food items and emergency supplies that you can buy at the grocery store. The list contains foods with a long shelf-life, items that have multiple uses, and supplies that are great for bartering.
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Survival Foods that add flavor & comfort:
Comfort foods can be a huge morale booster during a stressful survival situation, something that needs to be kept in mind when starting to stockpile food. These four things can be stored for over 10 years, and are a great way to add a little bit of flavor to your cooking. If stored properly they will probably last indefinitely.
- Salt
- Sugar – Brown or White
- Raw Honey
- Alcohol – Whiskey, Vodka, etc…
Base cooking ingredients with a long shelf life:
The following categories of food make up the foundation of most recipes and are all things that store well.
Hard Grains: Stored properly hard grains have a shelf life of around 10 – 12 years.
- Buckwheat
- Dry Corn
- Kamut
- Hard Red Wheat
- Soft White Wheat
- Millet
- Durum wheat
- Spelt
Soft grains: These soft grains will last around 8 years at 70 degrees, sealed without oxygen.
- Barley,
- Oat Groats,
- Quinoa
- Rye
Beans: Sealed and kept away from oxygen the following beans can last for around 8 – 10 years.
- Pinto Beans
- Kidney Beans
- Lentils
- Lima Beans
- Adzuki Beans
- Garbanzo Beans
- Mung Beans
- Black Turtle Beans
- Blackeye Beans
Flours and Mixes and Pastas: 5 – 8 years
- All Purpose Flour
- White Flour
- Whole Wheat Flour
- Cornmeal
- Pasta
- White Rice ( up to 10 years)
Oils:
- Coconut oil – Coconut oil has one of the longest shelf lives of any kind of oil. It can last for over 2 years and is a great item to add to your survival food supply list.
Survival Foods that are great during short-term disasters:
The following items are great for short-term emergencies, and will stay fresh for a long period of time. During most disasters, you’re going to want to have food that requires very little cooking, or can be eaten without any preparation at all. Make sure some of your stockpile includes these types of food.
Other good survival foods: 2 – 5 years of shelf life
- Canned Tuna
- Canned Meats
- Canned Vegetables & Fruits
- Peanut Butter
- Coffee
- Tea
- Ramen Noodles – not the greatest food in the world but they are very cheap so they made the survival food list.
- Hard Candy
- Powdered milk
- Dried herbs and spices
Items that can be used for more than cooking:
- Apple Cider Vinegar – Cleaning, cooking and has antibiotic properties
- Baking Soda – Cleaning, cooking, etc…
- Honey – Mentioned again for its antibiotic properties and wound healing.
Nonfood items to stock up on at the grocery store:
- Bic Lighters
- Toilet Paper
- Soaps
- Bottled Water
- Vitamins
- Medicines
- Bandages
- Peroxide
- Lighter fluid
- Canning Supplies
- Charcoal
More Emergency Food Resources
While we always advise the DIY approach to stockpiling food, this way you have the things that you would normally cook and eat and can then rotate them in and out of your normal life, there are some circumstances where commercially made survival food supplies might make sense. Here are some of the top emergency survival foods that can help you quickly bulk up your emergency supplies.
- The Top Survival Food Supplies to stockpile for long-term survival situations.
- Emergency Food at Amazonhttps://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=...l-20&l=ur2&o=1
Survival Food - 56 Long-Term Survival Foods and Supplies at the Grocery Store (offgridsurvival.com)
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THE RUSSIAN AA-12 FULLY AUTOMATIC SHOTGUN!!! I WANT ONE AND YOU WILL ALSO! AWESOME!
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The Straight-Pull Savage Impulse Hog Hunter Reviewed!
by MITCHELL GRAF on SEPTEMBER 5, 2022
Related Tags: 308, Bolt-Action Rifles, hog hunting, Hunt365, hunt365top1, Hunting Rifle, savage, Straight-Pull
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Featuring a quick straight-pull action, the Savage Impulse Hog Hunter is built for speed! Designed for quickly putting down multiple feral hogs which often roam in groups, I think Savage was really on to something here. Simply pull the bolt straight back, and then push it forward to eject an empty case and chamber a new round while eliminating the nonsense of time-consuming traditional 90-degree bolt throw. While having no previous experience with a straight-pull rifle before testing this Savage, I have grown to love his design.
Specifications:
Action: Bolt
Barrel Material: Carbon Steel
Caliber: 308 WIN (30-06 SPFLD, 300 Win Mag, and 6.5 CREEDMOOR)
Magazine Capacity: 4
Hand: Right
Length of Pull (in)/(cm): 13.75 / 34.925
Magazine: Detachable Box Magazine
Overall Length (in)/(cm): 39.5 / 100.330
Rate of Twist (in): 1 in 10
Receiver Material: Aluminum
Type: Centerfire
Stock Material: Synthetic
Stock Type: Sporter
Weight (lb)/(kg): 8.43 / 3.82
https://gastatic.com/digest/wp-conte...1-1024x683.jpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqryDLwJxgM&t=30s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqryDLwJxgM&t=30s
While not yet very popular in the US, straight-pull rifles are making an entry with multiple manufacturers getting into this space within the last year or two. Traditionally this style of rifle has been more complicated, expensive, and heavy. However, the saving grace is a straight-pull’s potential rate of fire. Aiming to see what this setup could do, I did multiple mag dumps from around 10 yards and had no trouble getting solid center mass hits on a USPSA silhouette with splits averaging 0.95 seconds between shots, with occasional follow-up shots as quick as 0.80 seconds. While this is nowhere near the split times I can get from a semi-automatic rifle, this straight-pull design is legal and available in many countries and states with ridiculous firearm restrictions that may outlaw semi-autos.
The most interesting feature of the Savage Impulse Hog hunter in my mind is the bolt. Designed to use what Savage calls a “hexlock” mechanism, six hardened steel ball bearings get pushed out to lock the bolt into a grooved barrel extension. The way this works is that the ball bearings in the bolt head freely float, but when the bolt handle is cammed forward, the inner bolt assembly moves forward forcing the ball bearings out into the groove in the barrel extension. This also means that as long as the bolt handle is cammed forward, the ball bearings are locked into the groove on one side, and the inner bolt assembly on the rear with no play, and there is no way the bolt could slip out of battery without shearing all 6 hardened steel ball bearings or the entire barrel extension and receiver. After understanding how this works, I was even more impressed with the design. To reset the trigger, the bolt has to cam forward after being placed in battery.
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Bolt head and grooves on bolt assembly that force the ball bearings outward when bolt handle is cammed forward to lock the bolt in place
The bolt head also features a tri-lug locking mechanism and can only be attached to the bolt assembly in one orientation. After placing the bolt head onto the bolt and twisting it clockwise, the bolt head lock plunger will hold it in place.
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Bolt-head lock is not spring activated so you may need to press it to open it up or lock it down
Curious if there was any way to fire the gun while not in battery, I locked the bolt into battery then pressed the quick release button to rock the bolt handle backward similar to what would happen when chamber checking the rifle, and pulled the trigger. The trigger pull sends the bolt handle rocking forward but did not fire the gun throughout my testing.
The camming bolt handle was the source of my confusion the first time I took the Impulse Hog Hunter out to the range. To remove the bolt, the quick release button just above the safety needs to be pressed to allow the bolt to be unlocked and pulled reward (anytime the gun has been put into battery, this button will need to be depressed to pull the bolt back without pulling the trigger). Then on the side of the receiver, the bolt release needs to be pressed. After doing this, the bolt will pull freely out of the receiver, but the bolt handle may slip and cam forward which is the case for me nearly every time take the bolt assembly out. This pushes the inner plunger mechanism forward, which locks the ball bearings out as if they were in the chamber. In this condition, the ball bearings hit the receiver and the bolt cannot be placed back in the receiver. All it takes to free up the ball bearings is camming the bolt handle back to the rear and getting the little extraction plunger at the top of the bolt assembly to lock it in place. Once locked to the rear, the bolt assembly is now ready to be put back into the receiver. Hopefully, this helps someone out there and they don’t look at the system confused for 10 solid minutes trying to figure out how the bolt assembly works. Again this is my first experience with a straight pull rifle, and I had not looked into how they worked before getting hands-on with the real deal.
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Bolt release on side of receiver, and quick release on the back of the bolt
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Bolt handle cammed forward, forcing the ball bearing in the bolt head to be locked out
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Bolt handle cammed back and ready to be reinserted into the receiver
Due to the availability, and wide variety of factory ammunition, I requested to review the .308 Winchester version of the rifle. Savage also offers the Impulse Hog Hunter chambered with 30-06, 300 Win Mag, and 6.5 Creedmoor. The .308 version comes with an 18″ barrel with a 1 in 10 twist rate made from carbon steel and then topped off with a matte black finish. Featuring a 5/8-24″ threaded barrel, the Impulse Hog Hunter is ready for suppressor use, or just a plain ole recoil reducing muzzle brake. Utilizing a medium contoured barrel, this rifle takes longer to heat up when taking shots in quick succession.
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Gearing up and about to stalk up on some east Texas wild pigs
The aluminum receiver features a one-piece 20 MOA rail machined directly into the receiver itself.
Savage has been offering their adjustable “AccuTrigger” in rifles for years, and this is because it works. Adjustable from 1 pound 8 ounces up to 6 pounds, there is quite a bit of flexibility for end-user preferences. The trigger has just the smallest sliver of creep before a clean break. It also includes a bladed safety which prevents the trigger from firing without being depressed as well.
Speaking of precautions, Savage uses a sliding safety with a textured plate for ease of activation. This plate wants to click either all the way forward into the firing position or back into safety keeping it from being stuck in an ambiguous middle ground. While it’s just a safety, it is smooth and it works.
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Fitted with an OD green AccuStock, with rubber texturing around the places you hold the rifle, the Impulse Hog Hunter is easy to get a solid grip with. The rubber texture is a nice touch so good job Savage for adding that! The synthetic sporter stock is easily adjustable as well. Straight from the factory, this rifle comes with 5 different cheek risers, and a pile of stock extensions for fine-tuning the stock to your optic height and stature. I will say I ended up finding the tallest riser to fit me the best with the scopes and red dots I used throughout this review.
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While savage offers four straight pull rifles, two of which offer AICS magazine capacity, the Impulse Hog Hunter is not one of these. It comes with a proprietary 4-round magazine with no other aftermarket options. This is my biggest complaint over the whole model especially when it is named the “hog hunter.” On Savage’s website, they acknowledge that “hogs rarely appear alone” yet limit this rifle to a 4 +1 capacity. For hog hunting in Texas, this just isn’t going to cut it. This may be a great option for European hog hunters, but around here for pest control, we want as many rounds as possible. Bringing this out hunting, my buddies and I got on multiple groups of 20+ pigs and the Impulse Hog hunter stayed in the truck while I brought out my semi-auto AR10. It wasn’t until we found a solo boar that I had the perfect opportunity to break in Savage’s Hog Hunter appropriately. While the magazine works excellently, and Savage offers other straight pull rifles that can take larger mags, naming this model as the “Hog Hunter” just didn’t seem appropriate to me.
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Something to note is the weight of this rifle. For a bolt-action rifle, this thing is heavy. Weighing in at 8.43 pounds unloaded without any optics or accessories, you are going to notice this thing is just built differently than your traditional bolt action rifles. However, the medium contour barrel is what accounts for most of the weight and this helps keep the rifle cool and easy to handle after firing multiple rounds in quick succession. Whether the weight is worth it is application dependent, but it should be considered.
While I think this was designed to be a quick shooting rifle for targets at close ranges, it is still important to test accuracy and what the Impulse Hog Hunter is capable of. Pigs can often be stumbled upon in the woods or fields at distances under 50 yards, but to take the longer shots on pigs or other wild game you will want something that groups well. For my accuracy testing, I used 4 different types of ammunition as follows: 150gr InterLock Hornady American Whitetail, 168gr BTHP Hornady Match, 178gr ELD-X Hornady Precision Hunter, and 150gr Norma Soft Point. I shot these groups from 150 yards away and they averaged between 0.9-2.0 MOA. The 150gr Norma performed the best out of this rifle getting a 0.91 MOA group, followed by 1.31 MOA from the 150gr Hornady American White Tail, 1.76 MOA for 168gr Hornady Match, and 2.01 MOA for the 178gr Hornady Precision Hunter. I also shot a lot of Sellier & Bellot 147gr M80 which grouped even worse, but I mainly used this for shooting steel and didn’t try groups on paper. While not great accuracy for a bolt gun, this is more than accurate enough to get the job done on pigs at close ranges.
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Groups shot from 150 yards, bottom right had hit just off the paper on cardboard and was measured before removal
One thing I noticed while shooting paper prone using a sandbag, was that I had to be intentional with chambering rounds. After a little dry fire, I was good to go but the bolt handle is at an angle that made me want to push it slightly up instead of straight forward. This causes the bolt to bind up and not go into battery until you are pushing it only straight forward. The last quirk I found was that you have to be rough when operating the bolt. If you try to eject a casing slowly, it falls off the extractor and gets stuck in the receiver. The bolt needs to be pulled back quickly as the only thing kicking a casing out of the gun is a metal tab at the back of the receiver that hits the casing when exposed. This means the velocity of the bolt is what is controlling how fast the casings are ejected.
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A metal tab that hits the casing to eject it out of the receiver, if the bolt is moved rearward slowly, the casing just falls off and remains in the receiver
Overall, this rifle features a pretty sweet operating mechanism, and I can now say I am a fan of straight pull rifles after running one myself. It is quick, efficient, and different which makes it all the more fun to test out. Coming in with an MSRP of $1,379 the Savage Impulse Hog Hunter may be more than a budget bolt action rifle, but it remains one of the lowest costing 30 caliber straight pull rifles available.
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