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Morse Code Alphabet: 4 Tricks for Learning it Quickly
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There are plenty of tricks preppers use to learn the Morse code alphabet.
You can use it to communicate secretly with people you trust during emergencies.
Recognizing Morse code the second you hear it allows you to react quickly, which could save you in a SHTF situation.
Morse Code Alphabet Chart Explained
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In Morse code, we represent letters through dots, dashes, and empty spaces.
These sounds have a rhythm, allowing others who know the code to interpret the message. It breaks down like this:
- The dot is the standard measurement unit.
- A dash is the length of three dots.
- A space between letters is three dots.
- A space between words is seven dots.
The most popular form of this code is the International Morse Code. It’s more straightforward than the original code, so it’s the version you’ll need to learn.
The Morse code alphabet isn’t as random as you may think. The most used letters have shorter patterns, making spelling common words faster. For example, the most-used letter in the alphabet is “E.” So, it makes sense that “E” is a single dot.
“T” is one of English’s next most common letters, a single dash in Morse code.
Importance of Morse Code Alphabet for Preppers
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Learning the Morse code alphabet is essential for preppers. You can use it in a disaster situation where other modern forms of communication are down. That way, even if your phone or computer loses service, you can still contact others.
Also, Morse code is a more secure communication method. Not many people know this code today, so you don’t need to worry as much about someone intercepting your message.
It’s a very versatile skill to have, and it can keep your brain in shape by making you think on the fly. Many people think it’s fun for this reason.
Lastly, you’ll learn more about our communication history, which can help you better understand modern forms of communication.
Morse Code Tools
Preppers have used Morse code to transmit messages through the radio, flashlights, and even tapping to organize and get help in emergencies.
Knowing how to interpret it could save your life someday, but you’ll need a way to send and receive messages. Here’s what you can do:
- Get a Ham radio and the proper licenses.
- Get a reliable SOS flashlight.
- Find a Morse code tapper for training.
4 Tricks for Learning the Morse Code Alphabet Faster
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Morse code can seem intimidating at first, but don’t worry. It’ll come to you quickly. There are several tricks preppers have used for years to memorize it efficiently and accurately.
These tricks will help you learn the Morse code letters as fast as possible.
1. Use Mnemonics
One of the best ways to learn Morse code is through mnemonics. This strategy can work for all types of learners because it helps you recall the letters quickly.
It lets you associate the letters with different sounds or words so that you can identify them in messages.
Start by breaking words down into syllables, then pair them with different Morse code letters. A good example is using “apple” for the letter “A.” Let’s look at the syllable breakdown:
- Apple = “ap-ple” = .- (dot dash)
Another great example would be using “eat” for the Morse code letter “E” because it only has one syllable.
- Eat = “eat” = . (dot)
There are plenty more Morse code mnemonics that you can memorize.
2. Listen More Than Write
It’s tempting to practice Morse code by writing. This strategy can work, but you should listen more than you write to learn it quickly.
Morse code is an audible communication form. So, you want to practice recognizing and recreating the sound patterns. The more familiar you are with the sounds, the easier it is to “hear” and understand the message with little effort.
You can practice by listening to the Morse code alphabet online. Try tapping or speaking along with the video to help you learn faster. You can slow down YouTube videos and then return them to regular speed as you get more comfortable.
3. Learn With Other Preppers
Learning with a loved one is perfect. You’ll feel more motivated and have someone to send messages to. Plus, you’ll know they can reach you in an emergency, no matter the situation outside.
You both must practice sending and receiving codes. That way, you can build your listening and decoding skills at the same rate.
Next, you can provide each other with constructive feedback. You should discuss how well you both stay in rhythm and whether you catch any spelling mistakes.
The feedback can help you learn better. You’ll also be less likely to form bad habits and make the same mistakes multiple times.
4. Try Free Online Tools and Apps
You should make use of the free tools available to you. You can check out online videos, borrow audiobooks from your local library, and download apps.
Google even offers a free Morse code trainer that you can use on your smart device.
These free resources are available to everyone with an internet connection. So, you can learn Morse code no matter your finances. It makes this code accessible to more people.
Using free tools also lets you learn at your own pace. If you took a class, you’d have to keep up with everyone else. You’re more likely to retain the alphabet if you memorize it at a more comfortable speed. Plus, you can learn from the comfort of your home.
FAQ
How long does it take to master Morse code?
Most people learn the Morse code alphabet in a matter of months. The more you practice, the faster you’ll memorize. However, you don’t want to burn yourself out on it. Most people recommend 20 to 30 minutes a day to practice at most.
Is learning Morse code difficult?
It’s not challenging to learn Morse code. Once you have memorized the alphabet, you can quickly send messages because you can already spell in English. The hardest part is committing your time to practicing it consistently.
Wrap Up
In short, preppers should learn the Morse code alphabet.
Knowing it allows you to secretly and reliably communicate with others in emergencies.
Using these four tricks will help you memorize it as quickly as possible.
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By Author SHTFPreparedness
Posted on Last updated: September 30, 2024
Morse Code Alphabet: 4 Tricks for Learning it Quickly
How Much is a SHERP and Its Long-Term Value?
https://www.shtfpreparedness.com/wp-...SHERP-ATV.jpegWhen SHERP presented their amphibious all-terrain vehicle on Top Gear in 2016, the world sat up and paid attention.
The Ukrainian manufacturer has been producing their unique ATVs since 2016, and now outdoor enthusiasts around the world are dying for a chance to use one of these recreational vehicles.
Let’s explore how much is a SHERP and whether it is a worthy investment.
What is a SHERP?
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SHERP is the name of a Ukrainian manufacturer of ATVs with a difference, and their key focus is on designing vehicles that can handle rough terrain.
The car can climb at 35-degree angles and tackle any type of terrain, serving both as recreational vehicles and occasionally in commercial settings.
What makes them stand out among other ATVs is that they have an onboard system controlling the wheels, so you can inflate and deflate them as needed.
This gives them the advantage of being able to travel over any terrain, including slipper ice, through water, and in the thickest brushes and bushland.
How Much is a SHERP?
The SHERP ATV range starts at around $120,000 for a brand new model, so they’re quite expensive in terms of other all-terrain vehicles.
With features like netting and Molly strapping to assist you with your daily duties, the SHERP Pro is more costly and designed for commercial use.
If you’ve been eyeing off these adult-sized Tonka trucks, you’ll need a fair bit of cash to get one for yourself.
Still, that doesn’t mean you can’t dream and get a better idea of the financials involved with purchasing and maintaining a SHERP ATV for yourself.
The Costs and Maintenance
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The cost of a SHERP isn’t cheap, and you can expect to pay at least $120,000 for one of their new vehicles.
Finding a second-hand model is a little harder, as most people who own one will hold onto it pretty tightly, so it’s not a recreational vehicle that many will have sitting around in their garage.
In addition to your initial investment, you’ll also have to fork out some money for maintenance over the years. The SHERP is like any ATV, and it requires regular servicing and repairs.
Because the brand is still considered a rarity in the US, you must be prepared to spend a little extra to get yours back on the road.
However, mechanically minded owners will be able to perform many repairs themselves, thanks to the unique design that lets you work on the vehicle from the passenger compartment.
You can perform maintenance on your SHERP while you’re out and about, and the Kubota motor has a solid reputation for dependability.
SHERP Ownership in the USA
Despite the recent surge in SHERP vehicle sales in the US, these vehicles are still not considered street legal.
You may use them in a commercial setting, such as on a farm, but you cannot drive them around like a normal car.
Typically, dealers sell SHERPs as recreational vehicles, and you can use them just like any other ATV.
Before you purchase one, you’ll be able to test drive them at a specially designed track that shows off everything these mini trucks have to offer, so it’s worth getting in touch with a local dealer to give them a try.
FAQs
https://www.shtfpreparedness.com/wp-...ing-SHERP.jpeg
A SHERP is just one way to have fun in an all-terrain vehicle, and if you’re thinking of getting one to enjoy the great outdoors, there’s a lot to learn about them. We’ve answered some questions about ATVs that can point you in the right direction for your next purchase.
How dangerous are ATVs?
Only a qualified driver should operate an ATV, and they should never drive at high speeds or irresponsibly. The most common accident with these vehicles is a rollover, and due to the lack of protection that the vehicle offers, injuries can be serious and lead to a visit to the ER.
What size ATV do I need?
You should size an ATV according to your physical stature to ensure safety. Adults under 5’10 are usually better suited to a 400-cc ATV or similar smaller model, and those over this height would be best riding a 500-cc ATV.
Wrap-Up
Understanding the cost of a SHERP goes beyond just the initial price tag. It’s an investment in unparalleled off-road capability and durability.
Whether you’re navigating rugged terrain or making waves in amphibious mode, a SHERP offers a unique blend of performance and reliability.
Remember, the value of a SHERP is measured not only in dollars but in the freedom it grants you to explore the uncharted.
By Author Mike Napier
Posted on Last updated: May 14, 2024
Categories Survival
How Much is a SHERP and Its Long-Term Value?
How Much is a SHERP
$115,000 to $350,000
The price of a SHERP ATV typically ranges from $115,000 to $350,000, depending on the model and configuration. Specifically, the SHERP Pro starts at around $115,000, while other models like the SHERP Ultimate and SHERP Hybrid can cost between $120,000 and $125,000.
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Homemade Pasta with 4 Flavor Variations Recipe
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Melissa Francis
May 17, 2014
Recipes
Beet, Flavor, Saffron, spinach, Squid Ink, Variations
Homemade Pasta with 4 Flavor Variations Recipe
This delicious Homemade Pasta recipe has 4 flavor variations – Spinach, Saffron, Squid Ink and Beet to add some variety to your noodle dishes. Learn how to make homemade pasta by hand and how to dry with the helpful tips. Fresh pasta tastes amazing compared to store bought pasta that has been sitting on shelves for months.
spoon fork bacon
Click here to read how to make Homemade Pasta with 4 Flavor Variations Recipe:
http://www.spoonforkbacon.com/2013/12/homemade-pasta/
Homemade Pasta with 4 Flavor Variations Recipe - The Homestead Survival
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PVC Kayak
By hellokeller in Outside Boats
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Introduction: Pvc Kayak
https://content.instructables.com/FZ...AyMzoxNTozNS4w
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First it was the PVC marshmallow gun, then it was the willow tree kayak then came the PVC Kayak. I was inspired by the first two projects and they happily came together. I used {10} PVC pipes (1/2in) each 10ft long from Home depot, {28} 45 degree elbows, {2} rolls of duct tape, {1} 11' by 15' tarp, and {4} tarp clamps for a total price of $60 at Home depot.
Step 1: Outer Ribs X 3
https://content.instructables.com/FZ...AyMzoxNTozNS4w
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I used {2} 1/2" PVC pipes that were 10 foot long. I tried the 90 degree elbows first but the plastic was cracking, so I went to 45 degree elbows with a 5 in spacer. This worked great. I made a total of three outer ribs.
Step 2: Inner Ribs X2
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The inner ribs each were made of {8} 45 degree elbows, {2} 28in pvc pieces, {6} 5in pvc pieces. I measured this off of the height of me sitting down to my armpit. (after my first trial this was still too high so maybe 3in peices would work better).
Step 3: Attaching Inner and Outer Ribs
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I attached the ribs about 42" from each end. I used a figure eight roll with the duct tape to make it secure. I attached the outer rib at the lowest edge of the lowest elbow. I did this with both inner ribs. I also taped all of the joints because they seemed to fall out when ever they felt like it. (didn't think this was a good idea in the water.)
Step 4: Attaching the 2nd and 3rd Outer Ribs
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Basically, the same step as the first rib. I attached the second rib to the third highest elbow's highest edge, and the third outer rib to the very highest elbow's highest edge. As I placed the second rib on to the frame I duct taped the tips together a little to allow for flex as I continued shaping it, then did the same as I added the third outer rib. The last step of the frame I duct taped the two ends to protect the tarp and to help give it shape.
Step 5: Adding the Skin
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I used a 11' x 15' blue tarp for the skin. This was kinda tricky, I didn't know how to wrap the darn thing. This isn't anything new you should see my Christmas gift wrappings. I placed the frame long ways with the longest part of the tarp, then folded the ends in. I used a little duct tape to secure it to the frame. Then I diagonally folded the sides in on the front secured them with duct tape then did the back the same. I pulled the extra tarp under the inside frame and used some nylon line through the eye holes to tighten up the skin, I dont know if it helped but made it look sharper. To keep with the Hillbilly look, I made a paddle with a 7' pvc pipe and two paddle shaped peices of wood, secured with some metal brackets.
Step 6: Sailing Away
https://content.instructables.com/FZ...AxOTowMzoyMy4w
Worked like a charm. It was very strong (shown by the two times it flipped out of the back of my truck on to the road on the way to the lake) and light. The times it hit the road made some holes in the tarp which I fixed with some duct tape just prior to launching. I think I will add a piece of plywood and a couching to raise my butt up a little to make it easier to row.
Pvc Kayak : 6 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables
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DIY Polar Bear Tubes For Your Cooler
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Paige Raymond
July 21, 2013
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DIY polar bear tubes for your cooler. Nice tutorial from Shelton products to show us how to make sealed freezer tubes. This will keep your fish or whatever you may have in the cooler cold without all the melted water from regular ice. He also shows you how to make a false bottom for the cooler to keep things out of any blood from fish or water if you had regular ice in the cooler.
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If you use a cooler for fishing or camping these would be worth the time to make. We always took one to the beach and the drive in. Not many drive ins left sad to say.
Click here to read more…
http://www.sheltonproducts.com/Coolertips.html
DIY Polar Bear Tubes For Your Cooler - The Homestead Survival
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Nick and Maëla
148K subscribers•110 videos
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/gfFl--FPnzo/h...A9BNFMj48ySzUg32:18
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 68 | We made too many mistakes on this project - Porch Railing
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Here's why we haven't been at the cabin this winter...
61K views
4 months ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/fr8-7trqoH4/h...SRiaYWIms3ODgQ2:23:51
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Canadian Couple Builds Their DREAM Home with HANDTOOLS! (Tiny Log Cabin in the Forest, FULL BUILD)
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1 year ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/jhzmveH2GqA/h...trFgsmM42AK5dQ39:50
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Canadian Couple tries making MAPLE SYRUP for the first time - Surprisingly Easy and FUN!
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4 months ago
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Canadian Couple FINISH the Interior of Their Secluded Tiny Log Cabin | Built Without Power Tools!
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5 months ago
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 67 | Finally starting some building again!
62K views
1 month ago
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 50 | Building a custom live-edge counter + Finally a door latch!
204K views
1 year ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/2Zv8HulSkcg/h...ZGEEVRGMWQVBwg33:21
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Spring is here! SO MUCH to do around the land and cabin | Garden, firewood, soil and water.
37K views
1 month ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/-35ZaBB2N7E/h...ncg0V-6NGXplTQ27:22
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 55 | Finishing the porch floor and FINALLY chinking!
196K views
1 year ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/X9XAw8Dodow/h...mEbor9bfzFRzeQ17:53
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 4 | Winter came early! But the work continues
46K views
3 years ago
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 42 | First fire!! Stone floor made from the land
126K views
1 year ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/uaqXaxL_Krw/h...2-tatMT5XBxoMg20:21
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 48 | A Christmas video! + Varnishing the floor and installing a toilet!
213K views
1 year ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/znEYdLofoEs/h...pa4wqbuZnBcBJA36:40
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 66 | Table and Chairs! | 5-year Anniversary | 2023 BLOOPERS
321K views
6 months ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/kpNKhwpif7E/h...g1MMVJlsVWJUCQ25:26
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 65 | Finally, a cozy place to relax in a snowstorm! Winter Cabin Life
462K views
7 months ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/WCwEP_NRFQw/h...rnWw6G0ezZV92w34:26
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 36 | 20-ft ladder! Carrying and installing metal roof by hand
113K views
1 year ago
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440K views
3 years ago
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 43 | Almost ready for winter! - Insulation and Woodshed
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1 year ago
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1 year ago
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1 year ago
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11 months ago
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1 year ago
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 47 | The floor is installed! No more ugly OSB | Cutting more trees
145K views
1 year ago
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 46 | Off-grid power for the winter | Fixing a leaking roof
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1 year ago
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 65 | Finally, a cozy place to relax in a snowstorm! Winter Cabin Life
462K views
7 months ago
CC
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/NeXhJnTFx0k/h...fJkL8G66ad10Lg31:23
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 64 | Winter is here! Building a seating nook with a pull-out guest bed
320K views
8 months ago
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 63 | We bought a power tool... Greywater Drainage + Window Trim
449K views
8 months ago
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 62 | Building a Greenhouse and some MUCH needed storage space!
419K views
9 months ago
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 61 | We made a folding ladder for the mezzanine + Canoe camping!
647K views
9 months ago
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Exciting News! We Bought Land | New Project - Off-Grid Tiny Log Cabin Made With Hand Tools!
Nick and Maëla
536K views
3 years ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/JqCllr6g0oY/h...N6a4pnZvKZlqzw16:41
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 1 | Felling & Debarking Our First Tree
Nick and Maëla
118K views
3 years ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/CbSYW57CHvM/h...Rpm5dbg_V8_pCQ23:31
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 2 | Struggling to Bring Down Some Heavy Trees by Hand
Nick and Maëla
73K views
3 years ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/R8YCMi5ah78/h...sE6NLDUjNfGJeg18:21
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 3 | Battling carpenter ants and honing our lumberjack skills
Nick and Maëla
51K views
3 years ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/X9XAw8Dodow/h...mEbor9bfzFRzeQ17:53
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 4 | Winter came early! But the work continues
Nick and Maëla
46K views
3 years ago
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 5 | Nature provided a free log!
Nick and Maëla
37K views
3 years ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/9erGEgarTC0/h...nJJiGagyYp_ldw15:04
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 6 | We have 40 logs! Halfway there
Nick and Maëla
38K views
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Nick and Maëla
33K views
3 years ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/n3QY-gUasOw/h...4TKzT7elTWQQ-A14:22
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 8 | Thigh-deep snow and a skating rink | Enjoying Canadian winter!
Nick and Maëla
32K views
3 years ago
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 9 | Finally breaking ground! | Peeling springtime logs
Nick and Maëla
36K views
3 years ago
https://i.ytimg.com/vi/RbroNGPSK8g/h...aOV4VotlTrlaLQ21:22
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Building A Log Cabin | Ep. 10 | We carried 1,386 lb of concrete on our backs: the foundation is DONE
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53K views
3 years ago
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https://yt3.googleusercontent.com/BV...00ffffff-no-rj Corporals Corner
@recall5811
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@SimpleLivingAlaska
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HYDROGEN PEROXIDE (H2O2) KILLS GERMS AND CANCER CELLS JUST BY RUBBING IT ON
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The Outsider
@TheOutsiderCabin
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The Outsider
@TheOutsiderCabin
1.14M subscribers
221 videos
you might want to learn these Skills and Acquire the tools Needed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iewpnFOB2mk
(251) Simple Off-Grid Water System + Copper Countertop Install / Ep110 / Outsider Cabin Build - YouTube
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(118) Walls, Windows & Door-frames- Ep31- Outsider Log Cabin - YouTube
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Walls, Windows & Door-frames- Ep31- Outsider Log Cabin[/COLOR]
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(1419) 'One Last Build, Son.' - Log Cabin Build Off Grid - YouTube
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https://yt3.googleusercontent.com/yt...00ffffff-no-rj Flour gold Wizards
@FlourgoldWizards
•85.9K subscribers •397 videos
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50 Hour DIY Survival Candles You Can Make at Home
If SHTF, DIY emergency candles will be one of the best things you can stock up on. Candles are cheap but do not last that long.
This homemade recipe makes as many candles as you want and if used in the mason jars mentioned can last up to 50hrs, some even say 70+ hrs.
https://www.shtfpreparedness.com/wp-...ntitled-62.jpg
If you’re feeling stressed about making DIY candles, don’t worry. We’re going to show you a recipe that is so easy a child could do it! Of course, don’t allow a child to do it alone since you’re dealing with hot wax.
Candles are an invaluable source of emergency lighting in the event that your electricity goes out.
If you’re in a survival situation, you can depend on those stocked up candles to give you light when you need it. While regular candles don’t burn for very long, you can make candles that will burn for longer.
These survival candles are built that way intentionally. They are made to burn for at least 50 hours. In some cases, they may burn for as long as 75 hours or more!
That’s a lot of burn time from one jar candle, which will be invaluable to you when SHTF and you need light.
The other benefit to these survival candles is that they are cheap to make and they store for years so you will always have them when you need them.
Read on to see how to make these awesome survival candles. You can make a bunch now as a weekend project and save them up for an emergency. You can even give them away as gifts!
DIY Emergency Candles
A DIY emergency candle is going to give you high-quality lighting in any emergency situation.
You can learn how to make candles from scratch now and then keep them on hand for any emergency. You may use one or two now if the power goes out and you’ll be so thankful you have them.
But what if there is a bigger emergency or natural disaster? DIY survival candles will absolutely save the day by giving you just what you need when and where you need it.
50 hour DIY emergency candles will ensure you have emergency light when you need it. It also feels really great to make something like this for yourself. It’s a great way to be self-sufficient.
How to Make Candles from Scratch
Once you learn how to make candles from scratch, you will be able to make them any time you choose.
You can get the whole family in on it and have a candle-making party yourself at home. Then stock up all the candles for an emergency situation.
The supplies are easy to get and don’t cost a lot of money and the candles themselves are not difficult to make.
Don’t feel intimidated by the DIY candles because we’re going to show you exactly how to do it.
Materials:
Soy Wax Flakes
You can get soy wax flakes online or from craft stores. They are often used in scented candles and you can get a big bag shipped right to you and it’s easy and affordable. About 1 pound of wax will fit around a 24-ounce container.
Wicks and Tabs
You can also find these on Amazon and at local craft stores. You can get pre-cut wicks or wick you cut yourself. You want your wicks to come a bit longer than your candle is tall, so base it on the jars you are using.
Mason Jars
Now you can also use canning jars (mason jars) for creating your own candles. I like to save jars from jams, jellies and other things they use in their home to reuse as candles. Then, you don’t even have to buy them new.
However, if you don’t have any to spare, you can find them online easily. If you are looking for 40-50 hours, then you want to target 8-ounce mason jars. If you want more burn time, then get larger mason jars. But, don’t get them too large as the wicks won’t fit.
Conversely, if you need a greater number of candles, go with the 4-ounce mason jars. Of course, it goes without saying these will have shorter burn times.
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1mMdzEIo4L.jpg
Hearts and Crafts Soy Candle Wax and Wicks for Candle Making, All-Natural – 10lb Bag with 100ct 6” Pre-Waxed Candle Wicks, 2 Centering Devicehttps://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....y-box/buy1.gif
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1kmNXFG8FL.jpg
Ball 40801 Golden Harvest Mason Regular Mouth 8oz Jelly Jar 12PK ‘Vintage Fruit Design’, RM 8 Oz Clearhttps://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....y-box/buy1.gif
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....13JSVa7L8L.jpg
150pcs Natural Candle Wicks
50pcs 8https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....y-box/buy1.gif
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....1jQbm4FZPL.jpg
Ball 4-Ounce Quilted Crystal Jelly Jars with Lids and Bands, Set of 12-2 Pack (Total 24 Jars)https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....y-box/buy1.gif
Tools:
Scissors
To cut the wicks; any scissors will do.
Pouring Device
I like a Pyrex measuring cup, but you can use anything with a pour spout.
Double Boiler
You need this to melt down the wax. If you don’t have a double boiler, you can use a pot inside another pot.
Gloves for Protection
This is added protection since you’re using boiling water and hot wax.
Instructions
Now that you have everything you need, it’s time to learn how to make your candles. Remember, we said it was easy so don’t worry!
The first step, before you start to melt anything down, is to get your wicks ready. You will cut the wicks to size and then put them into the tabs. If you buy pre-tabbed wicks, then you can skip over this step.
Then you can load your wicks into your jars. It’s okay if they are not perfectly centered in the middle of the jar. It will probably get moved around when you pour the wax in.
Once the jars are set up with the wicks inside, it’s time to melt down your wax. Use your double boiler (or makeshift one), and melt down the soy flakes. Note that you can get centering devices, as with the ‘Hearts and Crafts’ candle-making kit above. Once fully melted, it will be a liquid.
The flakes may change from white in color to a yellow-looking liquid. This is normal – so don’t worry. Now gently use your pouring device to pour the hot wax into the jars.
Be careful not to fill all the way to the top of the jars. You’ll need to leave a little extra space at the top.
This will be your chance to move the wicks and center them into the middle of the jars. You can do this before the wax cools and sets.
Once the wax cools and sets, you can trim the wicks on the top. You want them to be about 1/4 an inch above the wax. Now you can screw on your lids and store them until you need them!
Best DIY Emergency Candles
If you want the best DIY emergency candles, you should make them with soy. While you can make them with other materials, soy is great because it is long-burning. In an emergency situation, you want to go with something that is long burning.
If you’re looking to just buy the longest burning candle ever, there are 115+ hour emergency candles available. If you want to make your own to match these long-burning DIY emergency candles, then you can use a bigger wax container and a longer wick.
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/...TL._SL500_.jpg
CandleLife Emergency Survival Candle (Set of 4) – 115 Hours Long Lasting Burning Time – Smoke & Odor-Free | Clear Misthttps://easyproductdisplays.com/wp-c...2014/09/27.png
This ensures you get even more burning time from each candle. Although some people just prefer to make extra smaller or medium-sized candles instead of a lot of really large candles. It’s all about your personal preference.
Now that you know how to make long-burning emergency candles, you are set to start making and prepping for an emergency.
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Posted on Last updated: June 28, 2024
CategoriesSurvival
50 Hour DIY Survival Candles You Can Make at Home
https://blogger.googleusercontent.co...600-r/my+5.jpg
Saturday, January 16, 2010
Sawdust Emergency Candle Tutorial
Hello lovelies! I have another preparedness tutorial to share with you. This is for a long burning light and heat source for times when the power is out. I was thrilled to have this and wanted to share it with all of you. I got this information from my friend Vea. Her blog is all about provident living. It is fabulous!
Emergency Candles
Supplies
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bl...yQUUPXRcg=s0-d https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bl...hfmgAQwJQ=s0-d
Sawdust and or wood shavings
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bl...tHdMkKcWQ=s0-d
Wax - paraffin or old candle ends
Empty Juice Cans (46 oz)
Proportions
6 cups loose sawdust
12 oz (1 1/2 cups) melted wax
(we actually measured it by 1 1/2 cans of sawdust)
Directions:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bl...TdjrztSvo=s0-d
Melt the wax in some kind of double boiler arrangement over boiling water. We used a large pot with a large bowl on top. You DO NOT want the wax melting in something over direct heat of any kind, the chances of a fire are too great.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bl...OrUOPhtFY=s0-d
Pour over sawdust and mix well.
When it is cool enough to touch you can mix it with your hands.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bl...sWTZZm7Iw=s0-d
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bl...5gKASB-5g=s0-d
Pack the wax/sawdust mixture tightly into the can within 1 inch from the top. You really want to pack it down hard and tight. The instructions called for a wick for lighting the candle. We packed in around it all the way to the top of the candle. Trim the wick.
(Idea here...... The wick is only used for the first lighting and I am not sure it is even needed there. For the next one I make I am going to stick a birthday candle in the top layer of the candle so that maybe 1/2 inch of it is sticking out for lighting.)
To burn the candle
***********SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY************
Keep out of reach of small children.
Have the candle on a flat, secure surface.
Protect surface with an trivet or pan to keep from melting your counter top.
Keep a lid or tin close by for extinguishing the candle. DO NOT BLOW IT OUT! You will at least singe your face and hair if not start a fire!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bl...eMJxtiemY=s0-d
Light the wick and step back and watch it take off. (you might want to test your first burning outside, away from the house.)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bl...yXyRqpI24=s0-d
Enjoy the large amounts of heat produced.
You put the candle out by putting a metal lid or something flat over the top for a few seconds. Warning it will smoke a lot when you put it out so you might want to remove it outside quickly.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bl...mWujh3QsI=s0-d
For the next burning you just drop a lit match on the surface and it takes off. (I really think you could do that to start with but just for the sake of following rules, I included the wick.)
You may have noticed the holes punched in mine. Those are not necessary for a heat candle. I added those because I was told you can cook on one of these. Problem.... The wholes are for air, flame or something and when I put the pan of water on top of this, the flame went out within seconds. Not cool. So I will be looking for ideas to make this work. The selling point on the candle for me was that I could cook on it in an emergency and I plan on doing that so I will be experimenting until I come up with a way to make that work. :o) Then I will share the info with you.
A candle this size should heat a 9x12 foot room and keep it from freezing for about 10 hours. I have not tested this yet though. That is what I gathered from people who had made them.
I really want to make a smaller version of this and use it to cook food or heat water for our 72-hour kits. This is something my older children should be able to use themselves during an emergency situation.
Posted by Lucy at 3:36 PM https://www.blogger.com/img/icon18_email.gif
Labels: frugal tutorials, preparedness, Tutorials
My Byrd House: Sawdust Emergency Candle Tutorial
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21 Easy Homemade Pet Food and Treat Recipes
By Allrecipes Editors
Updated on October 12, 2020
How to Make Chef Nicole's Stick of Butter Chicken and Rice
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Photo by Getty Images.
Make your own nutritious dog and cat food and treats from ingredients you trust. Get ready, tails will wag! And furry friends will purr with pleasure. Of course, before making serious changes to your animal's diet, talk to your pet's veterinarian. In general, dog food should comprise 1/3 protein (from meat, eggs, or dairy products) and 2/3 grains and vegetables. Cats are pure carnivores, and therefore require more protein than dogs. Cat foods should be at least half meat, eggs, or dairy products and half grains and vegetables.
01 of 22
Liver Lickers Dog Treats
VIEW RECIPE
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mauigirl
These nutritious treats treats are made with liver baby food, an egg, powdered milk, and wheat germ. Store them in airtight containers.
02 of 22
Lucky and Rippy's Favorite Dog Food
VIEW RECIPE
"This recipe has been reviewed by my vet and approved," says LUVSNOW17, the recipe submitter. This is a great healthy recipe for dogs and can be cut in half for smaller dogs. Combined with a kibble this recipe lasts about 4-5 days for 2 large Golden retrievers. Be sure that your vegetable mix contains no garlic or onions!"
03 of 22
Homemade Dog Food
VIEW RECIPE
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Photo by Christopher Bernard / Getty Images.
This healthy homemade dog food combines ground turkey, brown rice, and vegetables. Serve it straight up or add a little to your dog's kibble.
4 of 22
Lucy's Recuperation Food
VIEW RECIPE
"I have a golden retriever that eats everything! She often gets into things she is not supposed to," says Trisha Brummer, the recipe submitter. "When she does, it makes her sick, so I feed her this for a couple of days, until her stomach settles. It is easy on the stomach, but nutritious and filling. If ever your pet is feeling a little under the weather, I recommend this."
05 of 22
Super Simple Sweet Potato Dog Treats
VIEW RECIPE
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Wyatt dogster
Dogs go wild for these homemade treats. And dog owners can rest easy knowing exactly what's in them. Sweet potato, whole wheat flour, eggs, and unsweetened applesauce.
06 of 22
Peanut Butter Banana Dog Biscuits
VIEW RECIPE
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Gail
These simple dog treats only call for seven ingredients! Make these biscuits when you want a special treat for your dog, they'll love the peanut butter flavor. Stir together the ingredients, roll out the dough, and cut them into cute shapes using cookie cutters.
07 of 22
Kitty Tuna Dreams
VIEW RECIPE
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Apprentice Cook
Cats crave these tasty homemade cat treats starring canned tuna fish. With no artificial flavors, additives, or other funny stuff in them, they're just real food for your furry feline friends.
08 of 22
Kitty Kisses Cat Treats
VIEW RECIPE
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Photo by Getty Images.The secret ingredient here is catnip! "A special treat for the special feline friend in your life," says Kerrie, the recipe submitter. "These little kisses will surely make them happy."
09 of 22
Peanut Butter and Pumpkin Dog Treats
VIEW RECIPE
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sanzoe
These dog treats call for canned pumpkin, peanut butter, cinnamon, and whole wheat flour. VeggieBalls says: "My two persinicky pooches are pleasantly pleased! 4 paws up from Percy & The Boop This recipe required no added water...super easy!"
10 of 22
Diabetic Dog Treats
VIEW RECIPE
"If you have a diabetic dog like we do, then you know it is hard to find a treat that will do no harm," says BARB MAXWELL. "This is one of those treats. It is easy to fix, and even dogs without diabetes will enjoy them."
11 of 22
Doggie Biscuits I
VIEW RECIPE
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Doggie Biscuits | Photo by Lutzflcat.
Peanut butter, eggs, flour, cornmeal, and rolled oats combine with a little of vanilla to create an irresistible baked dog biscuit. Bone appétit! "These are our dog's favorite treats!" says Dani. "If your dog has a corn allergy, you can substitute additional flour or oats for the cornmeal. Bone appetit!"
12 of 22
Poochie Meat Cakes
VIEW RECIPE
"I have 4 dogs, ranging from 5 yrs - 17 yrs old (Terriers of all sizes)," says Shelly H. "After the big dog food scare, I didn't want to take chances so I tried to figure out a healthy recipe for them, something that had all the nutrients and fat they needed. This is what I came up with and my dogs absolutely loved it! The nice thing about this recipe is that it can be eaten by the humans as well."
13 of 22
Pup-Cakes
VIEW RECIPE
These cupcake treats are perfect for dogs with food allergies. "Warning: they don't look pretty, but Fido will love them!" says Mrs. K. "They freeze well, and you can zap them in the microwave for a nice, occasional dog snack."
14 of 22
Doggy Meatloaf with Vegetables
VIEW RECIPE
Here's a simple and nutritious recipe to use as a substitute for canned dog food with ground beef, veggies, rolled oats, tomato paste, and wheat germ. "My dog really loves this," says Christina. "I started cooking all his food, except for the kibble. I feel a lot better about what kind of care he is getting now."
15 of 22
Dog Treats
VIEW RECIPE
"Cut-out dog biscuits with rolled oats, cornmeal, beef bouillon, and Cheddar cheese," says DOUGHMAMA. "You can change the flavor of these by substituting chicken bouillon for the beef."
16 of 22
VIEW RECIPE
Great for cooling down after a hot walk, these frozen yogurt bites keep well in the freezer for when your dog deserves a special treat. "OK, I know these probably sound like a very 2007, Southern California thing, but dogs don't care what's cool and what's not," says Witandvinegar. "They just want to eat everything they see. My dogs love these."
17 of 22
Brie's Turkey and Cranberry Dog Bones
VIEW RECIPE
Great for holiday snacking, these treats include seasonal favorites like turkey and cranberries. "My dogs love these," says CookinBug. "I also packaged them up for the holidays to give away and got lots of rave reviews from other dog owners."
18 of 22
Birthday Bones
VIEW RECIPE
Four ingredients are all you need for these simple dog treats. The dough holds its shape, making it great for using cute cookie cutters on. Tami says, "Use doggie type cookie cutters, like bones or fire hydrants."
19 of 22
Pet Cookies
VIEW RECIPE
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Nancy Roy
Both cats and dogs will enjoy these simple cookies. Best part? All you need are two ingredients: wheat germ and chicken baby food, plus a splash of water.
20 of 22
Bacon-Flavored Dog Biscuits
VIEW RECIPE
You can never go wrong with bacon. "These are great and my dogs love them," says Kai.
21 of 22
Sweet Potato Bird Balls
VIEW RECIPE
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Melissa Goff
We didn't forget about our feathered friends! Sweet potato and fruits combine into these tiny treats. If you don't have a pet bird, these can also be shared with neighborhood birds,
22 of 22
Ingredients to Avoid
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Photo by Getty Images.
- Chocolate
- Any candy containing the sweetener Xylitol
- Grapes and raisins
- Macadamia nuts and walnuts
- Moldy foods
- Mushrooms
- Mustard seeds
- Onions and onion powder
- Garlic (raw, cooked, and powdered)
- Yeast dough
- And of course items like coffee grounds, tea, and alcohol should be kept away from pets.For more information, please consult these websites:
For more information, please consult these websites:
Explore more:
21 Recipes for Homemade Pet Food and Treats
The golden rule of water conservation in an emergency: Never waste a drop
06/24/2025 // Zoey Sky // 910 Views
Tags: emergency water, green living, greywater, homesteading, off grid, preparedness, Preppers, prepping, safe water, SHTF, survival, tips, water conservation, water containers, water storage, water supply
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- When SHTF, your water needs will be higher than you think. The standard "one gallon per person per day" only covers drinking and cooking. Hot climates, hygiene, laundry and gardening demand much more.
- Wasting water in a crisis can lead to disease, pests and failed crops. Reuse, repurpose and recycle all water. Avoid letting it drain away.
- Greywater (from dishes, showers, laundry) is safe for cleaning and gardening, while blackwater (sewage) must be avoided.
- Save water by fixing leaks immediately. Even small drips waste thousands of gallons yearly.
- In a crisis, smart water usage can keep you alive. Store enough, but more importantly, never waste a drop.
Water is life, especially in a survival scenario. Most people know the basic rule: Store one gallon of water per person, per day. But this advice barely scratches the surface of what's truly needed when disaster strikes.
The reality? That gallon of water per person will only cover drinking and cooking, assuming you live in a mild climate. In scorching heat, you'll need more water just to stay properly hydrated.
And what about bathing, laundry, cleaning and/or growing food? Those needs add up fast.
In an emergency, a prepper knows that every drop of water counts. The number one rule of water conservation is simple: Never let water go to waste. If it hits the ground or disappears down a drain, you've lost a precious resource. (h/t to Survivopedia.com)
Why wasting water can be dangerous in a survival situation
The average American household uses more than 300 gallons of water per day because of various tasks such as flushing the toilet and taking long showers. But in a crisis, that luxury disappears.
Suddenly, your only water sources are what you've stored, what you can collect from rain or what you can purify.
Wasting water isn't just careless during a disaster; it can be dangerous. Dirty dishes in the kitchen sink attract pests. Poor hygiene leads to disease. And without enough water, crops in your home garden will wither and die.
The solution? Reuse, repurpose and recycle every drop of water.
The two types of "dirty" water and how to use them
Not all used water is equal. Understanding the difference between greywater and black water is key to smart conservation.
Black water (sewage)
Avoid black water or sewage at all costs. It is hard to reuse because it contains human waste. In an emergency, flushing toilets waste clean water. Instead:
- Use a bucket with a plastic liner (or biodegradable bags) for waste.
- If the crisis lasts, dig an outhouse far from water sources to prevent contamination.
Greywater
Greywater is a survival goldmine that includes water from everything else, such as dishwater, bathwater or laundry runoff.
Even if it looks dirty at first glance, greywater is still useful. (Related: Water supply and prepping: Emergency water solutions when your supply runs out.)
How to reuse greywater:
Cooking water
Don't throw out cooking water.
- Pasta or vegetable water can still be used to make soups and broths or for baking bread.
- Add flavor, like bouillon, to pasta or vegetable water to make a simple broth for stews.
Bath water
When SHTF, reuse bath water.
- Wash clothes in used bathwater, or stomp on them while in the shower.
- Reuse soapy water to clean floors or outdoor surfaces.
Dishwater
Dishwater can be used to clean your home.
- Wash the dishes first, then the counters, then the floors, in that order.
- Strain food scraps to compost later.
Final use: Water your garden
Plants don't care if the water is soapy. In fact, leftover food bits in greywater can act as fertilizer.
Extra water-saving tips for survival situations
Even small changes to your daily routine can make a big difference. Here are some tips on how to stretch your water supply:
Fix leaks immediately
A slow drip wastes as much as 5,460 gallons of water a year.
Test your toilet by adding food coloring to the tank. If color seeps into the bowl, you leak.
Shorten showers and reuse water
Taking a five-minute shower saves hundreds of gallons. Make sure to catch shower water in a bucket for later use.
Wash full loads only
Only run dishwashers and washing machines when they're full.
Use buckets, not hoses
Wash cars, patios or tools with a bucket instead of a running hose, which wastes more water, especially if you leave it running continuously.
Purify and recycle
If water is too dirty for reuse, filter it. You can use gravel and sand in a pinch. Next, run the water through a purifier to make it drinkable again.
In normal life, water seems endless. But in an emergency, it's survival currency.
The key isn't just storing enough water, it's using every drop wisely. By following the golden rule -- never waste water -- you can help your family stay hydrated, clean and healthy, even when resources are scarce.
Start conserving water now, before disaster strikes.
Visit Health Ranger Store and Brighteon Store to find more lab-verified food supplies and products for your prepping needs.
Watch the video below to learn more about Organic Long Grain Brown Rice and why you need it in your survival pantry.
This video is from the Health Ranger Store channel on Brighteon.com.
More related stories:
Prepping tips: Stockpiling non-perishable foods and water.
Prepping tips: How to survive with a limited water supply.
DIY prepping: How to set up a gravity-fed water system.
Prepping 101: How ambidexterity can boost your survival skills.
Sources include:
Survivopedia.com
EPA.gov
BackdoorSurvival.com
Brighteon.com
The golden rule of water conservation in an emergency: Never waste a drop – NaturalNews.com
How to Make Bio Diesel
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METHODS
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Procedure
OTHER SECTIONS
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Article Summary
Author InfoLast Updated: December 27, 2021 References
Biodiesel is an alternative fuel for diesel engines made from vegetable oil and/or animal fat. Since it is derived from renewable organic materials and has been shown to reduce certain harmful emissions when burned compared to conventional diesel, biodiesel has received wide attention as a "green" source of energy. Here are steps to synthesize this renewable fuel yourself.
Method1Preparations
1
Work in a safe place. This can mean in a clinical laboratory setting. You can find suitable laboratories at most colleges and research institutions. Working at home is also possible but requires caution - manufacturing your own biodiesel may be illegal and can put your house at risk of a fire, smoke or carbon monoxide.
- A good work place will be well-ventilated and have clear access to running water, eye-wash stations, fire extinguishers, spill containment supplies, a fire alarm and a telephone to use in case of emergencies.
WATCH TO LEARN MORE
2
Observe laboratory dress codes. Most laboratories will have posted dress instructions you should follow. You should always wear a long-sleeve shirt, long pants, and shoes in any laboratory setting.
- When making biodiesel, you should also wear a heavy-duty apron, chemical-resistant gloves (butyl rubber is best when handling methanol and lye) and protective goggles or eyewear. The gloves should come up to your elbows or have cuffs you can pull over your long-sleeve shirt.
3
Obtain good-quality oil. The easiest oils to use for biodiesel are neutral vegetable oils like canola, corn, and sunflower oil - these oils are readily available at grocery stores and have a low melting point, which means they won't solidify if they get too cold.[1]
- Avoid using peanut oil, coconut oil, palm oil, tallow, and lard. These sources of oil solidify at relatively high temperatures. Biodiesel usually has a lower melting point than the oil it's made from[2] , but these oils can still be difficult for beginners.
- Also avoid olive oil. It, peanut oil, palm oil, tallow, and lard all contain more acids than in the recommended neutral oils. These extra acids can interfere with the reactions that take place to create the biodiesel.
- It's also possible to use waste vegetable oil which has been used for cooking. However, waste oil should be filtered to remove particulates, then allowed to settle for 24 hours to separate the oil from any water or other impurities. Pure oil will be clear and bright, with no sediment.[3]
4 Ensure all containers are well-labeled. Only use containers for making biodiesel - don't use them for storing food afterwards, even if you wash them well.
Method2
Procedure
1
Add 200 ml methanol to glass blender or mixer. Take care not to splash or spill. Set the blender or mixer to "low".
2
Add 3.5 grams (0.02 oz) of lye. Try to weigh the lye quickly, as it absorbs moisture from the air. For this reason, be sure tightly seal the container you got the lye from.[4]
- The ensuing reaction between the methanol and lye produces sodium methoxide. Sodium methoxide cannot be allowed to sit for long, as it degrades in the presence of moisture.
3
Allow the lye to completely dissolve in the methanol. The process should take about two minutes. Proceed when mixture is clear, with no undissolved particles.
- Again, be attentive - the sodium methoxide will degrade rapidly, so proceed to the next step as soon as the lye is completely dissolved.
4
Heat 1 liter (0.3 US gal) of vegetable oil to 130° F (55° C) Add the hot oil to the mixture. Allow the new mixture to blend for about 20-30 minutes.[5]
- As the reaction proceeds, two products are formed - biodiesel and glycerin.
5
Pour the mixture into a wide-mouthed glass container or pitcher. Allow the mixture to sit.
- The mixture should separate into two layers - biodiesel and glycerin. Because biodiesel is less dense than glycerin, it should float, forming the top layer.
6
Allow the mixture to sit for several hours. When it has separated completely, carefully keep the top layer to use as your biodiesel fuel.
- Separate the top layer from the bottom by pouring it off very carefully or using a baster or pump.
7
Dispose of the glycerin properly. Check with local waste disposal authorities to see whether glycerin can be thrown out with your normal garbage - it usually can.[6]
- If you don't want to waste your glycerin, consider pouring it on a compost heap to increase the rate of decomposition or using it to make soap. Consult our wikiHow on Making Glycerin Soap for more information.
How to Make Bio Diesel: 11 Steps (with Pictures) - wikiHow
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No power? No problem! How portable power stations can keep you running after SHTF
06/25/2025 // HRS Editors // 100 Views
Tags: blackout, bug out, how-to, off grid, portable power station, portable power supply, power grid, Power Outage, power supply, preparedness, prepper, prepping, prepping gear, survival, survival gear, Survival Tips, survivalist
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- In today’s unpredictable world, power outages and emergencies are becoming more common. A portable power station -- a compact, rechargeable battery with multiple outlets -- is a must-have for keeping essential devices running when the grid fails.
- Unlike noisy, fuel-dependent generators, these stations are quiet, eco-friendly and easy to use.
- With a portable power station, you can access emergency power when disaster strikes.
- Portable power stations are portable for bugging out or traveling.
- They are also silent, emission-free and don’t rely on scarce fuel. They emit no fumes and/or carbon monoxide (safe indoors). A portable power station is a smart investment for staying prepared, safe and connected when SHTF.
In an unpredictable world where natural disasters, power outages and unexpected emergencies are becoming more frequent, having a reliable backup power source is no longer a luxury -- it’s a necessity.
When the lights go out, communication fails or medical devices lose power, the consequences can be dire.
That’s where portable power stations come in. These compact, battery-powered devices are designed to keep essential electronics running when traditional electricity sources fail. Unlike bulky, noisy generators, portable power stations are quiet, easy to transport and environmentally friendly.
Read on to find out why a portable power station should be a cornerstone of every emergency preparedness plan. (h/t to Enerlution.com.cn)
What is a portable power station?
A portable power station is essentially a large rechargeable battery with built-in outlets, USB ports and other power connections. Think of it as a giant power bank, but instead of just charging your phone, it is powerful enough to run small appliances, medical devices and lights.
Power stations can be charged in multiple ways:
- Wall outlets (standard AC charging)
- Solar panels (ideal for off-grid and long-term emergencies)
- Car chargers (useful while traveling or evacuating)
Once fully charged, portable power stations will store power until needed, providing instant electricity without the fumes, noise or maintenance of a gas generator.
Key reasons to invest in a portable power station
If you're still on the fence, here are some reasons to get a portable power station before SHTF:
Uninterrupted power when SHTF
Power outages can last hours, days or even weeks, especially after hurricanes, wildfires or severe storms. Without electricity, critical devices like phones, radios and medical equipment become useless.
A portable power station ensures:
- Communication stays online (charging phones, radios and Wi-Fi hotspots)
- Food stays fresh longer (powering a mini-fridge or cooler)
- Lights and fans remain operational (preventing darkness and overheating)
- Medical devices keep running (CPAP machines, oxygen concentrators, or refrigerated medications)
Unlike generators, which require fuel and can be unreliable in extreme conditions, a portable power station provides instant, silent power with no fumes or moving parts. (Related: 12 Ways to cool your house during a summer power outage.)
Portability for bugging out and travel
During emergencies, you may need to leave home quickly.
Traditional generators are heavy, loud and difficult to transport, but a portable power station can be carried like a suitcase or even packed in a car. A portable power station ensures you have power whether you’re:
- Camping off-grid
- Road-tripping in an RV
- Working remotely in a blackout
- Evacuating due to a disaster
Solar-ready for long-term survival
Many portable power stations can be charged with solar panels, making them ideal for long-term emergencies where fuel may be scarce.
Solar power is:
- Silent and emission-free (unlike noisy generators)
- Renewable (no need for gas or propane)
- Sustainable (works indefinitely as long as there’s sunlight)
For true preparedness, pairing a power station with a solar panel creates a self-sufficient energy system that can keep you powered for days or weeks.
Safe and easy to use
Gas generators come with risks, such as:
- Carbon monoxide poisoning (if used indoors)
- Fuel spills and fire hazards
- Loud noise that attracts unwanted attention when SHTF
Portable power stations, on the other hand:
- Produce zero emissions (safe for indoor use)
- Have no flammable fuel (just recharge and go)
- Operate silently (no noise to disturb neighbors)
- Include built-in safety features (overload protection, temperature control)
They’re also plug-and-play, with no complicated setup required. Just charge it, turn it on and connect your devices.
Versatile for everyday and emergency use
A portable power station isn’t just for disasters. It's also useful for:
- Power outages at home (running lights or fans in summer)
- Outdoor adventures (charging phones, cameras, or camping gear)
- Job sites (running tools where outlets aren’t available)
- Tailgating and events (powering speakers, mini-fridges, or projectors)
Since emergencies can happen anytime, having a device that serves multiple purposes ensures you get maximum value from your investment.
Choosing the right portable power station
Not all power stations are the same. When selecting one for emergencies, consider:
Battery Capacity (Wh – Watt-hours)
Higher capacity means more runtime.
- Small (100-300 Wh) – Good for phones, laptops and small devices.
- Medium (500-1000 Wh) – Can power a mini-fridge, lights and medical devices.
- Large (1000 Wh+) – Can run larger appliances for extended periods.
Output options
Look for multiple USB ports, AC outlets and DC carports.
Solar compatibility
Ensure it can be charged with solar panels for off-grid use.
Weight and portability
Lighter models are easier to transport.
Safety features
Overload protection, temperature control and surge protection are essential in a reliable portable power station.
In an era of increasing power grid instability and extreme weather, being prepared means having reliable backup power. A portable power station is one of the smartest investments you can make for emergencies because it can help keep your family safe, connected and comfortable when disaster strikes.
Whether you’re facing a blackout, evacuating or simply enjoying the outdoors, a portable power station ensures you’re never left in the dark.
Where to get a Portable Power Station for your prepping needs
The Health Ranger Store is committed to helping you prepare for any emergency, including power outages. That’s why we’re proud to introduce essential survival supplies like the ACOPOWER 193Wh Portable Power Station.
The ACOPOWER 193Wh Portable Power Station has an ultra-high capacity and is designed for the portable freezer tailored for the Tesla Model 3, Y and X. It's a 193 Wh 52000mA super-capacity battery, meaning you can use it to continuously power a portable freezer for 10 hours at 0 C (32 F).
This multi-functional battery can also be used as a multi-functional mobile power bank. It comes with a DC/USB/TYPE-C Output Port, which can charge your phone, laptop, tablet and more.
This portable power bank also has a built-in LED flashlight that can be used for outdoor lighting. Its sturdy and durable design makes it perfect for outdoor activities.
The battery can be charged through a 120V AC, 12V/24V DC adapter, or 12V solar panel, greatly reducing the limitation of the refrigerator and letting the car refrigerator truly support wireless use. Please note that this product does not include solar panels.
The extra USB, Type-C and QC 3.0 charging ports can charge all your small digital devices like tablets and phones effectively. The ACOPOWER 193 Wh Portable Power Station has passed American UL, FCC, CE, PSE and ROHS certifications.
It also comes with a one-year quality warranty by Acopower.
Visit Health Ranger Store and Brighteon Store to find more prepping products for your stockpile. You can also check out Survival.news for more tips on how to prepare for different survival scenarios.
Click on this link to learn about some common myths about emergency food storage.
Watch this clip about Organic Pearled Barley and why you need it for your emergency food stockpile.
This video is from the Health Ranger Store channel on Brighteon.com.
More related stories:
Power outage preparedness: Staying safe and comfortable during a blackout.
Light the way: Must-have firestarters for emergencies.
Health Ranger Report: Stefan Verstappen discusses community prepping and survival wisdom.
“Breaking the Chains” on BrightU: How to survive a chemical or nuclear attack without help from the government.
Sources include:
Enerlution.com.cn
Oupes.com
HealthRangerStore.com 1
HealthRangerStore.com 2
Brighteon.com
No power? No problem! How portable power stations can keep you running after SHTF – NaturalNews.com
How to Build a Safe Emergency Wilderness Shelter
Whether you’re heading on a low-cost camping trip or you get stranded out in the wilderness without many supplies, knowing how to build an emergency wilderness shelter is incredibly important.
Video Cheap Cabin Kits Starting At $3860 - SHTFPre... | Open Video
https://www.shtfpreparedness.com/wp-...ry-shelter.jpgTypes of Emergency Wilderness Shelter
A temporary emergency wilderness shelter can get you through the night no matter where you are.
Depending on where you are in the wilderness, there are many different ways to build a shelter. However, the types of emergency wilderness shelters tend to break down into two categories:
- poncho shelters
- natural shelters
If you have a poncho Mylar survival blanket or some other kind of waterproof material, you can make a poncho shelter.
One of these should be included in every bug-out bag. If you don’t have any of those things, you’re going to need to make a natural shelter.
Poncho Shelters
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Lean-To Poncho Shelter
There are a few different kinds of poncho shelters.
The most basic kind of poncho shelter is a lean-to. A lean-to is a shelter made with two points of contact. You will need to stretch your poncho tight. Attach it to the ground and then lean it at a 45-degree to a fixed structure.
If you are in the desert or other dry areas, you might be able to find a rock outcropping or a short tree. You can then attach the top of the poncho to the tree at a 45-degree angle. When you do this, make sure that the structure is very stable.
Also, take a few minutes to figure out which way the wind blows. You want the lean-to facing into the wind. That will keep wind, rain, and sand from blowing into your shelter.
If you cannot find a sufficient rock wall or sufficiently large tree, you can build the lean-to by creating the second point of contact. If two trees are close together, you can string a rope between them. Tie the top of the poncho to the rope and affix it to the ground. Just that quickly, you have a quality lean-to.
How to Stay Warm in Your Poncho Shelter
If you are in a dry area, you might be surprised by how quickly the temperature can drop when the sun goes down.
To maintain a comfortable temperature in your lean-to, you can build a fire outside of your lean-to. Since you need to keep the fire away from the poncho and not so close that you inhale smoke, a lot of heat will be lost.
To reduce the loss of heat, you can construct a firewall. A firewall is any type of structure that is on the opposite side of the fire from your shelter. That will cause light and heat to bounce towards your shelter.
In a sandy environment, you can actually just build a sand or earth embankment.
If you have wood available, a wall can be built by driving two sticks into the ground vertically and tying other branches to them. Paracord is probably the easiest way to tie items together; it is truly an indispensable survival tool.
Poncho Tent
The other type of poncho or Mylar blanket shelter is a poncho tent. Whereas a poncho lean-to has two points of contact, a poncho tent has three points of contact.
To build the poncho tent, string a rope between two trees or rock outcroppings. Make sure you pull the rope taut. Then, drape the poncho or Mylar blanket over the rope. Secure it to the ground on both sides to form an A-shaped tent.
This type of shelter requires a larger poncho than a lean-to but it will protect you from wind and rain more completely. It will also keep you a little bit warmer.
Building a fire outside of the tent and supporting it with a firewall will keep you warm throughout the night.
Natural Shelters
https://www.shtfpreparedness.com/wp-...al-shelter.jpgIn contrast to poncho shelters that require ponchos and ropes, a natural shelter can be made with things found in the wilderness. The types of earthen shelters are actually similar to the poncho shelters but made from different resources.
A lean-to is still the simplest type of shelter. If you are anywhere that you can find branches, you will be able to build a quick lean-to. If the weather has been dry for a while, you might even be able to gather branches off the ground. Otherwise, you’ll need to cut green branches off of a tree.
To cut branches off a tree, you can use an axe, hatchet, or saw. If you’re cutting small branches or if you’re walking far, you want a hatchet. They’re easier to carry.
An axe is going to be much heavier and longer, which means you’ll be able to cut larger branches. You can see a more in-depth comparison of axes and hatchets here.
How to Build Your Natural Lean-To Shelter
To find the right branches for your lean-to, you need two long branches that are about the same length. These will form the roof of the lean-to. Then, decide how wide you need your lean-to. It should probably be at least wide enough for you to lay down completely.
Then, use your axe or hatchet to cut down several branches long enough to make a roof. If you can find large elephant ear leaves, palm fronds, or similarly large leaves, you will be able to make a roof out of these. A vine of some sort is a great substitute for rope or twine. If you can’t find vines, you can use an axe or knife to cut thin strips of green wood; while they’re still green, they can be used to tie branches to your lean-to.
A natural tent is made by essentially building two sides to a lean-to and leaning them against each other.
Underground Shelters
The final kind of natural shelter is actually an underground shelter. Underground shelters can be thirty or forty degrees Fahrenheit cooler than the outside air. However, the earth holds heat much better than the air. That makes them the perfect natural shelter for deserts.
To build the underground shelter, find a depression between rocks or dunes. If you can’t find a rock or dune, dig at least deep and wide enough that you can lie down comfortably. Pile up all of the dirt or rocks that you remove from the trench.
Finally, you need to create a partial roof over the top of your trench. If you have leaves or branches, you can use sand or rocks to anchor the branches as a roof.
Related: check out this guide to underground bunkers.
If you have a poncho, it won’t be a completely natural shelter, but it will be the easiest way to create a partial roof for your underground shelter.
Conclusion
These four kinds of shelters, two natural and two poncho, can keep you warm and dry no matter where you find yourself.
Learn how to create an emergency wilderness shelter for practice, before you actually needed it. If you are stranded in the wilderness or just testing your wilderness survival skills, keep these shelters in mind.
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Home Survival Hunting
Trapping 101: How To Catch Animals With A T-Snare Trap
by Ben W
in Survival Hunting
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You’re stocked with venison you shot during season, but now the family complains about venison steak, venison burgers, and venison stew again. How can you provide some variation in the menu and still supply adequate protein? Trapping is a safe and enjoyable activity that can net a variety of small mammals with uniquely different flavors. In addition, it can become a family project with the making, setting, and checking the traps.
To trap an animal is to catch one without having to play an active role in the process at all times. In this article, the main purpose to trap an animal is for food, although you may be able to harvest some other necessities from the trapping of animals, such as furs or scents.
Animal trapping is perhaps one of the first methods of hunting. As far back as the Neolithic period, this method was used to keep food on the table and money in the pocket. In early colonial America, the fur trade was the newest and most sought after form of employment. Learning from the Native Americans, the new colonists focused on the beaver and other small animals, including fur animals like small cats and fox.
An extremely easy to build, but relatively effective trap is the T-snare trap. The materials needed are:
- Heavy survival/hunting/multipurpose knife
- Two sticks, approximately 2-3 feet long and as straight as possible. These will form the vertical base.
- A slightly smaller diameter stick about 1.5 feet to 2.5 feet long, as straight as possible. This will be the horizontal support system.
- A small, slightly stumpy looking stick, maybe 2-4 inches long. This will act as the trigger for the trap.
- Small diameter, relatively concealable, string or wire (or a suitable alternative like paracord or snare wire)
- A younger sapling that has some springiness to it
Just as in real estate, the three main components of a successful trap are location, location, location! The location of the trap will be paramount to your success. Try for known animal paths that run near water and food sources. If you are using items directly from the outdoors, then also look for young vegetation and saplings nearby to make your process easier. Try to think like an animal that is worrying about their food, shelter, and safety when trying to determine the ideal location to set a trap.
To build a trap in this style, you will want to mark the two vertical supports at the same spot to allow your horizontal support to sit level. Notch out a cradle area in the shape of a “C” in the vertical supports at the height that allows the horizontal support to fit into the two verticals, without extending out too much past the surface of the verticals.
An Outdoorsman’s Guide to Shelters, Tools, Weapons, Tracking, Survival, and More!
In the four-inch trigger piece, carve a “C” shaped notch as well, about in the middle of the wood which will allow it to rest on the horizontal bar. At one of the ends, carve a groove out to act as a nesting spot for the string/rope/wire which will be cut around the circumference of that end; it would be like a ring around the end of the trigger stick.
The end of the sapling spring piece will be about at the center of the trap. Generally speaking, the shorter the spring pole, the more tension potential.
Situate the verticals with enough room for the animal to get between them (slightly larger) and secure the poles in place with rocks or in the ground at even levels.
Place the horizontal support into the supporting notches. To form an “H”
Now take a single piece of twine or rope and attach one end to the tip of your spring pole using a slipknot. Measuring down to the horizontal bar with the spring pool flexed in position, attach the twine or rope to the notched circle on the trigger bar and continue it down to make the snare. Make a circle connected with a slip knot made with half hitches that isn’t too tight since it needs to move when triggered to snare the animal. Use enough twine or rope to make a circle large enough to cover the opening between the vertical sticks. With the knot just slightly elevated off the ground.
Before you set the trap, you need to block the surrounding area alongside the trap so that the animal doesn’t simply walk around. Use rock and tree branches to effectively make a barrier or fence, leaving only an open path into the trap.
Now you are ready to set the trap. Position the trigger pole onto the horizontal pole in the opposite direction that the horizontal pole is set into the vertical poles. This exerts opposing pressure keeping the horizontal pole stable and provides the ability for the animal to set off the trap from either direction. Position the snare and you are ready.
The point of the sapling is to add spring to the trap to ensure the snare part of this trap actually happens, so you will need to make sure that the tree can spring back upwards to return to its vertical position. The release of the tree simultaneously tightens the noose-like snare knot and elevates the animal off of the ground, keeping the “noose” tight. It is the most important part of the entire design.
Test the trap to make sure it functions properly. Beware as your poles or trigger may not be as stable as you had hoped and may become flying objects. Be aware of low lying branches on the spring pole as in windy conditions, they may inadvertently set off the device. You may need to trim back any bothersome branches before the trap is set.
Now comes the hardest part of the entire process—waiting for a thirsty or hungry animal to walk into your trap. Hopefully the terrain wasn’t interrupted too much and the animal is unsuspecting of what awaits.
Set as many of these devices as you will have time to check. You wouldn’t consciously leave a hanging animal dangling from a tree to die slowly of starvation. Check your traps daily and enjoy the fruits of your labors.
Beaver and raccoon are pretty common species from traps like this, but opossum and muskrats are easily subdued as well with this method. The trap described above isn’t as difficult to perform as it is to read, and once you have it dialed in, it can be extremely efficient. It’s difficult for the animal to recognize, as it’s made with natural items. This information is more for trying out the trapping process and for survival when you won’t have access to traps that are commercially made.
In all reality, you can buy quality reusable traps for a small amount of money that can be used with incredible effectiveness, so you may be better off doing so, as the cost is outweighed by the long life and usefulness of the traps. The goal in trapping is more to create a “passive” supply of animals that will supplement your other methods for gathering meat. Use trapping to help stabilize your hunting intake, and make the best use of your active time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DLe4H2v3co
How to make a primitive trap: the t-bar snare (wilderness survival traps)
Trapping 101: How To Catch Animals With A T-Snare Trap - Off The Grid News
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Muscadine – Wild Food Foraging, Identification & Recipes
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- Muscadine – Wild Food Foraging, Identification & Recipes
Melissa Francis
May 6, 2013
Recipes WIld Food, Wild Food Foraging
Identification, Muscadine
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emergency outdoors
Emergency Outdoors blog shares a extremely educational article on a wild foraged food ” Muscadine “. Muscadine (Vitis rotundifolia) is a member of the grape family.
It goes into identification of the berries, leaves and bark, what part of the United States in grows in and recipes how to use it.
Click here to read this wonderful article:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQunfS5hX-A
Duck Dynasty
Nature’s Garden: A Guide to Identifying, Harvesting, and Preparing Edible Wild Plantshttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=t...1&a=0976626616
The Wild Table: Seasonal Foraged Food and Recipeshttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=t...1&a=0670022268
Wildcraft! – An Herbal Adventure Gamehttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=t...1&a=B001LNKSAC
2 year old stock – Summit Muscadine Grapeshttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=t...1&a=B00AAERZFO
Muscadine - Wild Food Foraging, Identification & Recipes - The Homestead Survival
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How To Build A Vertical Axis Windmill DIY Project
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- How To Build A Vertical Axis Windmill DIY Project
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Melissa Francis
July 2, 2014
DIY Projects, Off Grid,Wind
Axis, diy project, electrical generator, off the grid, vertical, windmill
How To Build A Vertical Axis Windmill DIY Project
This outline of how to build a vertical axis windmill DIY project encourages the self sufficient type of person to create an off the grid electrical generating device. Many homesteaders are searching for ways to create or supplement their power needs from a free renewable resource … the wind !
creative-science
Click here to read How To Build A Vertical Axis Windmill DIY Project:
http://www.creative-science.org.uk/sav.html
How To Build A Vertical Axis Windmill DIY Project - The Homestead Survival
Savonius windmill
https://www.creative-science.org.uk/...wind/vert1.jpg
This is an experimental vertical axis windmill and electrical generator, which in a fair breeze, easily provides 5V at a few 100mA's. I know that the following details are a bit scanty but I wanted to get something up on the web site to inspire people to get experimenting. I don't know when I will have time to add more details but do e-mail me if you think some major info. is missing and I will try to respond.In vertical axis windmills the turbine is positioned so that it rotates along a vertical axis. Changes in wind direction don't tend to effect such a windmill because unlike horizontal axis windmills they don't have to point into the wind for maximum efficiency.
If the wind turns round (as it does sometimes when it is blustery) a normal windmill will slowly come to a stop and then turn the other way, with subsequent loss of power during this period. A vertical axis windmill wont really notice any difference and will continue to produce power without stopping.
https://www.creative-science.org.uk/...t_windmill.gif
One disadvantage of the horizontal axis mill is that, for all but the short mills, the axis needs to be supported at each end. This means they sometimes need a clumsy supporting structure around them limiting the height above ground they can reasonably be positioned. As wind speed is usually greater and more stable high above the ground its a major limitation for these otherwise excellent devices.This particular design uses 10 mm studding (thread) as an axle to support the wind turbine and transmission gearing (a 15cm diameter wooden pulley). Everything is made from 1/2" plywood coated with several varnish layers to weather proof. As its fairly small we support the whole turbine from the base.
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The basic Savonius design is a S shaped turbine made up of two double half circle (in this version each was ca. 30cm diameter) wooden templates which are supported by wooden batons. Half the circular shapes produced by the templates are covered in light weight plastic sheet to form a curved sail / wind resisting surface for the wind to make 'contact' with.https://www.creative-science.org.uk/...ill_blades.gif
As the turbine turns it moves the axle turning the wooden pulley below. The gear arrangement to the simple generator, from a large to small pulley means the relatively slow turbine motions are stepped up powering the electrical generator at a suitable speed for all but very low wind speeds.https://www.creative-science.org.uk/...wind/vert5.jpg
The generator is made using 8mm studing with two bearings as in the windmill axle. Two magnets are fixed on two nuts at the center and two coils of wire (each 1000 turns of ca. 30SWG enamalled copper wire) are arranged around them. As the axle spins the magnets rotate inducing electricity into the coils. This type of generator produces an AC voltage. Its nice as there are no moving electrical parts and so no connections to go wrong with water rust and oxidation. They work happily in all weathers. My one is shown with a white LED attached to the generator. See the generator pages (links below) for details of suitable magnets.The voltage produced depends on the rate at which the generator axle / magnets rotate. This in turn is dependant on the gear ratio between the large pulley on the windmill axle and the pulley on the generator. I used two bottle tops back to back secured by two washers and nuts as a simple homemade pulley for the generator.
https://www.creative-science.org.uk/...wind/vert3.jpg
The turbine and pulley system is fairly heavy, this means the windmill is a little slow to get working but it does tend to smooth out variations with changes in wind speed. The extra momentum keeps it going when the wind speed dips now and again.Finish the mill with a few coats of outside varnish on all the wooden surfaces to give it a water / weather proof finish. In an ideal world you might want to put cups / covers on the studing just above each of the bearings to protect them from rain and dirt etc. (you might get away with only having to do it on the very bottom bearing as the turbine, small pully and generator body give some protection to the other three bearings. A drop of oil every so often works wonders ....
movie clip of a savonius turbine and generator (ca. 4Mb)
The following URL's will be useful:
simple Rough Science generator I
simple generator II
6 gens page
Natures Power page
Note: coming soon:
Vega module film clip of three windmills (including the Sanovius mill shown here)
Dr Jonathan Hare, E-mail: jphcreativescience@gmail.com
NOTE: Although none of the experiments shown in this site represent a great hazard, neither the Creative Science Centre,
Jonathan Hare nor The University of Sussex can take responsibility for your own experiments based on these web pages.
THE CREATIVE SCIENCE CENTRE
The Creative Science Centre - by Dr Jonathan P. Hare
THE CREATIVE SCIENCE CENTRE (CSC)
by Dr Jonathan Hare
Visiting Outreach and Public Engagement Fellow
in the Chemistry department at Sussex University (UK)
The Creative Science Centre - by Dr Jonathan P. Hare
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A Practical Zeer Pot (evaporative Cooler / Non-electrical Refrigerator)
By Berkana in Outside Camping
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Introduction: A Practical Zeer Pot (evaporative Cooler / Non-electrical Refrigerator)
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About: I'm an inventor, poet, permaculture / sustainability nerd, and activist. I work in the renewable energy industry with biomass gasification. I love to show people neat tricks to optimize things, and I want the … More About Berkana »
A zeer pot is an evaporative cooler used in rural Africa and the Middle East to keep vegetables fresh. They consist of two terra cotta pots, one nested inside the other, with the gap between them filled with wet sand. The sand serves as a thermal mass that helps keep the pot cold once it has cooled down, and acts as a wick to spread the moisture up the walls of the pot. When placed in a shaded, breezy location, the evaporation of water off the outer surface chills the pot. If you have a good breeze, or a fan powered by a solar panel blowing the pot, the pot can get quite cold. Imagine that chill you get when you step out of a pool when the wind is blowing. Now imagine that wet wind chill going on all day. That's what the pot feels with a constant breeze.
Unless the air is very dry and the pot is exposed to a constant breeze, they generally do not become as cold as a refrigerator, but they will keep vegetables fresh for a couple of weeks. If you do have cool dry air and a constant stiff breeze, the interior of a zeer pot can chill down to around 40˚F.
Think of it as an open-cycle refrigerator. Conventional refrigerators evaporate a refrigerant in a closed circuit to absorb heat from their interiors, then compress the refrigerant vapor in the coils in back to condense it and to expel heat. The zeer pot simply uses water as its refrigerant, and leaves the condensation to nature.
Zeer pots were re-discovered and popularized in the early 2000s by the Nigerian teacher Mohammed Bah Abba. By manufacturing and mass distributing zeer pots to the poor, he was able to bring refrigeration to tens of thousands of impoverished farmers and home makers, enabling them to extend the usable life of their produce from days to weeks. For his efforts Bah Abba was awarded the Rolex Award for bringing life-changing technology to people in need.
In the under-developed parts of Africa and the Middle East, zeer pots use custom made pots prepared by local potters. Here in the developed world, we need to settle for pre-made pots from the hardware store. There are some drawbacks, but also some advantages afforded by these limitations, as you will see.
What makes this zeer pot practical?
There are other zeer pot instructables out there, but this one is optimized for practicality. If the capacity is too small, the cooling capacity too low, or if it an eyesore or is annoying to use nobody would want to use it. This zeer pot uses a large glass pot lid, has an interior basket divider, and sits on a rolling cart. It even has a layer of decorative pebbles over the sand to make it look pretty. The terra cotta pot legs hold the pot off the rolling cart with enough clearance to let the bottom surface contribute to evaporation; this adds about 10%-15% more evaporative surface. The inner pot is bolted down so that it doesn't float up when you charge the pot with water. Nearly everything I used in this project was purchased at a hardware store, and it can be made in a few hours, plus a day to let the sealants cure.
I will be building a zeer pot array for A Place for Sustainable Living in Oakland (California) based on this design. The goal is to use an array of zeer pots to displace the use of at least one of their refrigerators. The design shown here is the outcome of my experimentation with making zeer pots for them.
(Be sure to read all the notes to all of the photos. Many important details are listed there.)
Parts list with prices
Prices are rounded to the nearest dollar. (I must admit, this is by no means the inexpensive original African zeer pot, which cost $2 to make. You're going to spend well over a hundred dollars on this design. This one is for people are intentionally going out of their way to go off grid or to pursue sustainable options.)
Items are mostly from Orchard Supply Hardware (Berkeley, CA). The pot lid was from Kukje market (Daly City, CA), and the sandwich basket was from Web Restaurant Store.
- 18" unglazed terra cotta pot— $30 @ Orchard Supply Hardware
- 14" terra cotta pot—$15 @ Orchard Supply Hardware
- terra cotta pot feet, quantity: 7— $1.79 each, so about $13 @ Orchard Supply Hardware
- heavy duty planter caddy with five casters—$30 @ Orchard Supply Hardware
- 50 lbs of sand; the finer the better, pre-washed — $6 @ Orchard Supply Hardware
- 4" long 1/2" bolt
- 2" washers for a 1/2" bolt, quantity: 5
- jamb nuts for 1/2" bolt, quantity: 4
- Refrigerator thermometer: $8 @ Orchard Supply Hardware
- Silicone Sealant—$5 @ Orchard Supply Hardware
- 13.5" glass pot lid — $8 @ Kukje Market (Korean markets usually have these; wherever you are, if there's a korean market or housewares shop, you're in luck.)
- sandpaper
- 12" diameter sandwich basket— $7 at Web Restaurant Store
- 8" eyelet or hook bolt and a pair of nuts and washers— about $6 @ Orchard Supply Hardware
Note: won't work as well in high humidity
If you live in a hot and humid area, the zeer pot probably won't work well; high humidity results in much less evaporative cooling. (However, a friend of mine who used a zeer pot to cool water in a humid part of Africa tells me that even with the humidity, it worked surprisingly well, so this is not definitive.)
Note: direct sunlight will cancel out all cooling effects
On the day I was doing the zeer pot seminar at the Place for Sustainable Living, we accidentally left one in direct sunlight. The amount of heat imparted by the sun totally overwhelmed the evaporative cooling effect. The cooling is supposed to come strictly from wind-induced evaporation, not from evaporation due to sun exposure. Sun exposure causes evaporation by imparting heat; wind exposure causes evaporation by lifting away water molecules, which carries away heat proportional to the heat it takes to evaporate the quantity of water carried away. If you do build a zeer pot, make sure you keep it in the shade for best effect.
Note: outer pot must be unglazed clay or terra cotta
At the hardware store, I saw a lot of fake terra cotta pots made of orange plastic. These are not usable for the outer pot of the zeer pot; the zeer pot cools by wind evaporating water that has been wicked through the outer surface. Plastic fake terra cotta is not porous, and will not work as an evaporative surface.
Glazed terra cotta pots also don't work for the outer pot. The inner pot doesn't necessarily have to be made of unglazed terra cotta, but the outer pot must be unglazed because glazed pots won't wick moisture to the outer surface for evaporation.
Note: many medium sized zeer pots work better than one giant zeer pot
The ability of a zeer pot to cool its content depends on the surface area to volume ratio. As you make the zeer pot larger, the volume will increases proportional to the cube of the linear dimensions, but the surface area only increases proportional to the square of the linear dimensions. Because the volume increases much faster than the surface area, one huge zeer pot will actually perform much worse than several smaller zeer pots. The size of the zeer pot in this instructable is about as large as you can make them while having a practical rate of cooling. You can always make them smaller; making them larger is not likely to give you reasonable performance. If you are serious about going off-grid, you would do better to make several zeer pots of this size than to make one huge zeer pot.
Step 1: Prepare the Central Bolt, Bolt Shut the Hole on the Outer Pot
https://content.instructables.com/F1...AxNzoxMTozOC4w(Be sure to view all of the photos above; much of the explanation is contained in the photo notes.)
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In this practical zeer pot design, we have a limitation that I turned into an opportunity. The terra cotta pots that we have access to have holes in the bottom for drainage; these need to be plugged so sand and water don't drain out the outer pot, nor into the inner pot. I have found that it is insufficient to merely plug the holes; zeer pots also have another annoying problem where the inner pot will try to float up as you wet the sand in the space between the pots. In order to solve both of these problems, I use a 4" long 1/2 diameter bolt, and a bunch of nuts and broad washers and a bit of silicone sealant to seal the holes in both pots. The secondary benefit of this is that the inner pot can't float up because it is bolted to the same bolt that seals the outer pot. This way, you can be generous with charging the sand with water without worrying about the inner pot floating up.
The first thing you need to do is to put a pair of broad washers on your bolt, put some silicone sealant on the threads, and tighten them down with a nut. Then, seal around the nut with more sealant.
While the sealant is curing, use your sanding block to remove the clay burr around the hole of both pots. Be sure to sand off the burr both on the inside and the outside of the hole until the washer can lay flat against the pot. If you do not remove the burr, water will leak past the hole.
Now, it is time to seal the hole in the outer pot. This works best with an assistant helping you. Lay the pot on its side, and put some silicone sealant on the clay around the hole both the inside and outside the pot; insert the shank of the bolt through the hole, and have your assistant thread on a washer and bolt it down from the other side. Wipe up any sealant that squeezes out around the washer. Then smear sealant around the nut and bolt to prevent water from leaking out around the threads.
Step 2: Prepare the Washer on the Bolt to Seal the Inner Pot
https://content.instructables.com/FK...AxNzoxMjoxNi4wTurn the outer pot upright, and rest it on pot feet on your rolling pot cart. Put three pot feet into the pot near the bolt, and thread another washer onto the bolt such that when you put your washer down on the nut, the top level of the washer is just a tiny bit higher than the top of the pot feet. The washer must not have its upper surface lower than the upper surface of the pot feet; if it does, the inner pot will rest on the pot feet, and won't have its hole pinched tightly by washers from above and below.
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Add a little bit of sand to the outer pot; you want just enough to fill the places that will be hard to get to once the inner pot is in place. Be sure there isn't sand on the washer or pot feet; the sand may prevent the inner pot from sitting flat on the washer, and will prevent a good seal. If you decide to dampen the sand to make it more easily shapable, do so BEFORE you put it into the pot, and add water using a spray bottle only until the sand has the consistency of brown sugar. Any more, and the sand sticks to everything.
Once the washer is in place, seal the threads with silicone, and thread on the nut that holds the washer in place. Put some silicone on the washer so that it will seal against the bottom of the inner pot, and rest the inner pot on that washer. Then put some sealant around the hole on the inside, add another washer to the bolt, and pinch it down with a nut. Seal the threads and the gap around the nut with silicone, and wipe up any silicone that squishes out around the washer.
(Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of the last step where we tightened down another washer to pinch down the inner pot.)
Variation: inner pot nested an inch lower
In the photos above, I show the pot legs used as spacers positioned upright. You can also position them laying on their sides so that the inner pot sits about an inch lower. (If you do this, be sure to use sand paper or a file to remove the clay burrs from the side edges of the pot feet, or else the inner pot won't sit properly on these spacers. Also, you can use a shorter bolt; I don't know precisely how much shorter, but probably about an inch shorter.) You can see from some of the photos in the other steps that the inner pot's upper lip sits about an inch above the later of decorative rocks. While this affords a little bit more evaporative surface, it also means the inner pot's upper edge is not surrounded by as much thermal mass as it could. Having the inner pot nested a little bit deeper also means you can use a couple of quarts less sand, which will also make the completed zeer pot just a bit lighter.
The next zeer pot I build will be this variation.
Note: Be sure the pot feet are close to the central bolt
I made a couple of mistakes in the pictures which show damp sand in the pot. Firstly, I put too much water in, and the sand started to stick to everything, which was a real hassle. Secondly, the pot feet were too spread out, and I had to move them back toward the central bolt. The reason you must have the pot feet close to the center is that the bottom of the inner pot actually has a raised perimeter. (This slightly raised perimeter can be seen in the photo from the prior step which shows me sanding the burr away from the hole.) If the pot feet end up contacting the raised perimeter, the part of the pot right around the hole won't touch the washer that you matched to the height of the pot feet, and you won't get a good seal around the hole of the inner pot.
Step 3: Sand Down the Inner Pot If Pot Lid Won't Fit
https://content.instructables.com/F6...AxMjoyMzoxOC4wWhen you buy your inner pot, you should bring your pot lid to find one that fits well. However, please be aware that terra cotta is an imperfect material, and the pots will not likely be perfectly round. Because of this, you should use some sand paper to sand the inner pot's upper lip to make the lid fit.
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Try to get the lid to fit as well as you can, and note where it contacts the terra cotta. Mark those areas either with pencil or perhaps with chalk. Use the sand paper to sand away the contacting areas, and keep doing this until the lid fits right. In our case, it took several hours of very careful checking and sanding to get the two zeer pots to fit their lids well.
Wipe up or vacuum up all the terra cotta dust before continuing.
Step 4: Optional, for the Sheet Metal Blackbelts: Add a Thermometer.
https://content.instructables.com/FB...AwMTowNDowNi4wIf you really want your zeer pot to have that extra nice touch, get a piece of sheet metal, and cut out a bracket to mount your refrigerator thermometer. You'll need a bot and nut that fits the vent hole of your lid to lock down one end of the bracket; the other end will thread through the same screw that holds the handle onto the pot lid.
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With the thermometer mounted on the lid, you can tell the temperature at a glance. Since the warmest air in the zeer pot rises to the top, you'll know that the temperature inside will be cooler than what the thermometer indicates.
Step 5: Fill the Gap With Sand, Add Water, and Top With Decorative Rocks
https://content.instructables.com/FV...AxNzoxMjo0OS4wFirstly, adjust the four pot feet on your rolling platform at this time so that they are evenly distributed. Once the sand is in and the pot is wet, the zeer pot will be very heavy.
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Use a funnel to add sand. You will likely end up using all 50 pounds of sand. Add more if needed; we ended up adding a couple of quarts of extra sand you want about 1/2 inch of a gutter going all the way around, which you will fill with decorative rocks after you wet it all down.
Before adding water, let all the sealant on the bolts and washers cure for at least 3 hours, or overnight for best results.
Add water one quart at a time; the sand will settle, and you will probably need to add a bit more sand when the pot is saturated. When the sand is saturated, you can add the decorative rocks, and perhaps a bit more water. The rocks are not just for looks; when you re-wet your pot, the rocks dissipate the water that you're pouring into the gutter so that the stream of water doesn't cut a pit into the sand.
Once the pots have their sand saturated with water, the pot will darken from water wicking through the terra cotta. Put the pot in a breezy area for the initial cool down. A breeze is absolutely necessary; it simply will not cool down enough without it.
A decorative trim is one of those things that sets this zeer pot apart; people are more inclined to use beautiful things. A zeer pot that looks really nice is not going to be something you're embarrassed to use.
Note: if you are using beach sand, wash the sand to remove salt
If you decide to use beach sand to fill your zeer pot, be sure you wash the sand in a couple of changes of water to purge it of salt. Salt will contribute to the mineral build up on the terra cotta that lessens the cooling effectiveness of the zeer pot.
Note: water will likely pool in the inner pot after saturation
Do not be alarmed if some water pools up inside your inner pot during the initial cool-down after you saturate it with water. Use a sponge to soak it up and wring the sponge over the decorative pebbles to return the water to the sand.
If water accumulates inside quickly, you probably have a leak, which is a whole different problem. If your inner pot is cracked, you will need to replace it. If your washers and nuts are not well sealed, you will need to let the whole thing dry out, and re-seal the entire thing, leaving at least a few hours for the sealant to cure.
Step 6: Add a Handle to the Inner Basket
https://content.instructables.com/FU...AxNzoyMDoxNS4wGet your eyelet bolt, and a pair of nuts and washers, and bolt it onto the sandwich basket as close to the middle as you can. The basket should be pinched tight between two washers. This inner basket gives you an extra platform to put stuff on, and is one of those features that makes this zeer pot practical compared to some of the other "first world" hardware store zeer pots you may have seen.
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Insert the basket into the zeer pot, and put the lid on. Adjust the eyelet bolt such that it is as high as possible without touching the glass lid. You want the eyelet bolt to be useful as a handle even if the basket is filled with fruit or other items.
Step 7: Root Cellar Variant, and Important Notes About Usage and Limitations of the Zeer Pot
You should moisten the zeer pot with a quart of water three times a day. If you store your water in the zeer pot, or have a dedicated water chilling pot, you will have the best results, since the water you add will be cold already, and won't increase the temperature of the pot.
Root cellar variant
One neat variant for keeping root vegetables and scallions fresh is to build your zeer pot, and to fill the inner pot half way up with damp sand. Then, burry your carrots and beets in the sand to store them. Damp sand will keep your root vegetables as fresh as possible by keeping them alive. You will find that they remain crisp for longer this way. Also, if you have scallions, burry the root parts in damp sand to keep them fresh. This works even better than simply keeping them cold.
Please note:
- The zeer pot will eventually accumulate mineral build-up. Use hot water and a sponge, or perhaps a bit of lemon juice to dissolve away the minerals that crust up on the outside of the zeer pot.
- The zeer pot will not be as cold as a refrigerator; it will be cool, and it will keep your food cool, but it will not chill a hot container of food down to safe temperatures.
- The zeer pot needs a breeze to cool. If you have a good breeze all the time, or perhaps a small fan powered by a solar panel, the pot can get quite cold. Imagine that chill you get when you step out of a pool when the wind is blowing. Now imagine that going on all day. That's what the pot feels with a constant breeze.
- High humidity will result in reduced performance. However, a friend of mine who used a zeer pot in a hot humid part of Africa told me that it still worked "shockingly well", so it might just work. But keep it in the shade, with a breeze.
- Zeer pots actually perform better than refrigerators for many vegetables; vegetables wilt in the refrigerator because the condensation on the cooling tubes dries out the air. Refrigerators blow a lot of air over a little chilling surface that is really cold, causing the air to dry out. In contrast, the air in the zeer pot is chilled over a much larger surface that is only a little bit colder. This minimizes condensation; also, since the surface inside the pot will be moist terra cotta, the air inside will have as much moisture as possible, which keeps vegetables crisp in spite of not being as cold as a refrigerator.
The zeer pot is a greener option only if you use it according to the following rule:
- These things can evaporate a couple gallons of water a day if you have a good breeze, especially if the weather is dry and warm. If you multiply this water consumption by several zeer pots, this can be a considerable water consuming appliance. I don't intend to unleash upon the world a device that wastes water in lieu of using electricity, especially in California, where we are experiencing a drought; I expect that everyone who uses these zeer pots to use a bucket to catch the gallons of water that you would normally waste while waiting for the shower to warm up, and to recover this water for the zeer pot. That way, you're saving electricity without using any additional water. Or, go ultra-sustainable and use captured rain water.
A Practical Zeer Pot (evaporative Cooler / Non-electrical Refrigerator) : 7 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables
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The Most Amazing Way To Build A Root Cellar – DIY Project
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- The Most Amazing Way To Build A Root Cellar – DIY Project
Melissa Francis
November 29, 2012
DIY Projects, Food Storage & Skills, Home
fruit, prepping, project, root cellar, storing garden harvest, storing vegetables, vegetables
Roberts Projects blog shares a step by step process of how to build an walk in underground root cellar.
Storing your garden harvest at cooler temperatures will prolong it viability.
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Click here to read and view the tutorial:
http://robertsprojects.blogspot.com/2010/02/root-cellar.html
Robert's Projects
My various projects that may be of interest to others. Dedicated to my brother Stan, Apr 16, 1955- Dec 4, 2010
Monday, February 22, 2010
Root Cellar
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We decided that our little farm needed a root cellar to store our produce in. For those unfamiliar with the term, a root cellar is an underground room that acts like a natural refrigerator, maintaining temperatures in the mid 30's F in the winter and mid 50's in the summer.
Step one: Dig a hole in the ground. We are fortunate to have a local gravedigger who is a real artist with a backhoe. He can carve a hole with straight sides almost within an inch of what you ask for.
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Step two, pour a concrete footer. Then start laying blocks. About 320 went into this 8 x 8 foot cellar.
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Almost finished here. Now, for the fun part, pouring a concrete roof. A simple flat slab wouldn't do, for you want condensation to run off to the sides. So, I created a plywood from with an arched top. The arch would also create a stronger roof. It also created a very strong form.
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I built the form in the shop, then dismantled it.
The arches are 1/2 inch plywood pressed into dadoed grooves in the 2x4's. This created an extremely strong structure.
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Satisfied with the form I reassembled it on the root cellar walls.
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A nice snug fit, supported by 3 vertical 2x4's on each side. (Not shown in the picture are 8 pieces of 1/2" plywood approximately 6" x 23". These were installed after the plywood sheets were added. They are used as extra reinforcing ribs by wedging them between the plywood sheets and the top of the 2x4's.) Next, the plywood, a sheet of plastic and lots of 1/2 rebar. Lots of rebar. Rebar is cheap, so why not? If this were a flat 4 inch slab, the calculated load rating is around 250 pounds/square foot. More then enough. But it is arched, and up to 5 inches thick. Also the rebar extends into the walls a foot, and are cemented in place. Not sure what the load rating is now, but it is certainly more than adequate.
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18 half inch rebars on 8 inch centers. Strong enough!
Next, add a perimeter to the form and pour concrete. About 4,000 pounds worth. I expected at least a little deformation of my form, for all that weight was being borne by my 5 arches, but there was none! Impressive.
Not taking any chances, I did not enter the cellar until I was confident the concrete was fully cured.
Removing the form from inside was not difficult, for it was designed for easy disassembly and re-use.
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A view of the top before the entrance was completed and the cellar covered with 2 feet of earth. The wood at the rear is covering the ends of the rebar to prevent injury. They will be part of the reinforcement for the entrance-way.
I poured the roof in 3 sections, for that is the most concrete I can handle working alone. The seams are nearly invisible from below, and are waterproof. It was not difficult creating the arch in the top using standard concrete. The radius of the top arch is about 6 inches larger than below.
The arched ceiling is as glossy as a counter top, thanks to the plastic sheet I laid over the plywood.
See light reflecting off ceiling in picture below left.
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Below Right: Add stairs and doors at top and bottom, and you have a fine root cellar, ready for lots of fruits and vegetables. Currently we are storing apples, carrots and potatoes, and we are pleased with the results.
One of the two 4 inch vents can be seen in the corner. The other is in the opposite corner.
To save labor and materials, I built the stairway with half of it on a foundation at the floor level, and the other half of the foundation just below the frost line. I felt that digging the entire stairwell to the floor level would have just created a large inaccessible space.
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This project took a few months of evenings after work over the summer. It was cooler then, and the mortar did not dry too fast. All concrete and mortar, about 8,000 pounds in all, was either mixed with a small mixer, or by hand.
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Here is a drawing of the block layout. In order to center my stairwell, I had to cut some blocks into two pieces, a 12 inch piece, and a 4 inch piece. That is because my interior width is 88 inches. If you make your width 96 inches, you will not have to do this. A wet tile saw cuts through concrete blocks with ease. I have used mine to cut many blocks, including the angled pieces that form the arched tops of the walls. Since the saw can only cut about 1/2 inch deep, you make a cut on each side. The blocks will easily split then by driving a chisel into the cut. Make gentle taps, while moving the chisel along the cut and they will break cleanly. You can see how good the cuts are in the pictures of the walls before the roof was poured.
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Here is a picture of a very similar cellar. He used a higher arch, which is something I would do if I had to do it all over again, for condensation does not readily run to the sides of my flatter arch. He was very conservative and used 28 vertical supports. I used only 6. His roof weighed 5,000 pounds wet vs. my 4,000 pounds, therefore his supports were holding only 250 pounds each, while mine were holding 670 pounds. However, his ceiling was much higher than mine, and his 96 inch supports would be more prone to bending under the load than my 65 inch supports. His wood arches are on 16 inch centers, while mine are on 24 inch centers. However, I have a "backbone" made from a 2x4 running along the top, and 2 rows of plywood rectangles fitted in between my wood arches. He tarred his sides, I did not. To tar or not is determined by how wet your ground is. For more info see: http://campfire.theoildrum.com/node/5596
Other topics that I have that may be of interest:
A solar hot water heater. This has performed far beyond my expectations, even in winter. If you can find a used system, like I did, it will pay for itself in only a few years.
Rion Greenhouse. An easy to assemble greenhouse kit that has proven to be durable in high winds and heavy snow. It is now 5 year sold, and has held up well.
Insulating and finishing the interior of a pole barn garage/workshop. How I gave my pole barn a nice insulated interior in a budget.
Posted by Robert at 7:53 PM
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Home » Newest Articles » DIY Build a Freestanding Deck
DIY Build a Freestanding Deck
chad
June 13, 2024
Construction How-To, Decks, Decks, Framing, Outdoor Living
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By Matt Weber
Build a Freestanding Cantilevered Deck Supported by Parallel Beams.
Around Alabama, where EHT is headquartered, most decks are connected to the side of a house with a ledger board fastened to the rim joist of the house. When done correctly, this is a strong and code-compliant method of building. But, when flashed or fastened incorrectly, this connection can pose potential problems, such as providing a prime location for water to collect against the house wall and ledger board, ultimately contributing to rot.
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As an alternative to the ledger, the deck I recently built is a freestanding structure, basically a giant platform built right next to, but not connected to, the house wall. The house in question had two stories with a finished basement on the bottom level. The finished ceiling of the basement prevented access to the interior side of the rim joist. Unless I was to tear out the ceiling, I wouldn’t be able to add nuts and washers to through-bolts on the interior side of the rim joist. And, if I couldn’t fasten the ledger with through-bolts, then I’d have to use lag screws. Although some heavy-duty lag screws are strong enough to attach ledgers to rim joists, if the wood were to eventually rot, then no matter how strong the lag screws, they could potentially pull out of the rotted wood. So, I figured that by building a freestanding deck, I could avoid these potential hazards altogether.
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Stakes and string will help keep your deck layout lined up.
Think Big
As with every major construction project, always consult local codes, and if you have any questions, consult a building inspector. I pulled a building permit for this job and in doing so became friendly with my local inspector who was a great help suggesting building techniques and keeping this rather large deck code-compliant.
This freestanding deck surface was 40 feet by nearly 12 feet—we’re talking about a big platform—but thankfully it wasn’t very high, which is a major concern with a freestanding deck. The higher the deck is from the ground, the longer its support posts will need to be and the more likely the deck will be unstable. Thanks to an uphill slope at the rear of the house, the deck surface was only 5 feet high next to the house but closer to 3-1/2 feet on the far end. Building the deck close to the ground helps keeps the “wobble” out of the completed structure.
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In lieu of the ledger board, I constructed this as a cantilevered deck where the joists were supported by large two parallel beams (also called girders) running parallel to the house wall. The beams were supported by 6-by-6 support posts J-bolted with post-anchor hardware to concrete pier footings.
Whatever you do, don’t skimp on materials (i.e. using 4-by-4 posts) when building a freestanding deck. In fact, for this kind of construction it’s best to over-build the deck. For example, I constructed each beam from 2-by-10 boards laminated together to form a big, brawny 4-by-10. And, although the span ratings for the beam gave me 8 feet of play between posts, I generally kept the posts no greater than 7-1/2 feet apart for extra support. That rule held true for the distance between the two beams as well, with the two rows of support posts spaced about 7-1/2 feet on center from each other. The bigger, beefier and more closely positioned your framing members are, the stronger your deck will be.
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To cut a 6×6 post, I cut each side with a Skil saw and finish the middle with a reciprocating saw.
Support Beams
I started construction of the deck by laying out the area with stakes and string. I then ran two new rows of string within the perimeter, staking the location of each support post. I used a powered auger to dig the 2-foot post holes and slid cardboard footing tubes into the holes to retain the concrete. With the tubes in place, I again pulled some more string over each row of post holes, stretching it tightly and staking it on the far ends of each row. These new string lines placed over the footing tubes provided the straight lines I needed to center each tube in the hole and backfill around them to secure their alignment and position them parallel to the other row. Keep the openings of the tubes about 2 inches above the ground so they shed water.
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Next, I filled the tubes with a few inches of gravel and fast-setting concrete, struck off the tops flush with the rim of the tubes and inserted 8-inch J-bolts into the center of each pier footing. Don’t leave the exposed threads of the J-bolts sticking too proudly out of the footings or they won’t fit into the post-anchor hardware and you’ll have to cut them to size. (Learn from my mistake.)
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I fastened Simpson post anchors to the J-bolts of the pier footings, which keeps the posts elevated above the ground.
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Determine the anticipated height of your deck, then measure downward, subtracting the thickness of the decking and the height of the joists and beam. Transfer this measurement to the posts to determine where to cut them to accept the beam.
I used adjustable galvanized post anchors (Simpson Strong-Ties item AB66) to fasten the post over the J-bolts, which keep the wooden posts elevated so they don’t absorb standing water. When setting the posts, run some new string to keep things in line, fastening the posts in the hardware square and plumb, with the post faces lining up flush with the string.
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The Post-Pod from Cepco Tool makes a handy brace when setting and cutting posts
Note: Hammering nails through the hardware and into the posts can really knock things “out of whack” in regard to your footings and J-bolts. For this job I used Paslode’s new Positive Placement Metal Connector Nailer, which is a pneumatic nailer with a special guide tip designed to shoot the nails right into the tiny holes of the Simpson hardware without the imprecise impact of a hammer. This new nail gun made building the deck a heck of a lot easier.
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I installed galvanized hardware at the front and rear of the beam when fastening to the posts.
I was installing 4-foot 6-by-6’s as posts, but they’re still tall enough to lean, so brace the posts with scrap lumber as you proceed.
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I laminated the beams together using a combination of construction adhesive and RSS screws from GRK Fasteners.
Once the posts of each row were fastened securely, determine where they should be cut to accept the beam. This is a matter of basic math, finding the anticipated height of the deck (in my case, less than an inch below the home’s upper-level subfloor) and working downward, subtracting measurements for the thickness of the deck boards, the height of the joists and the height of the beams. I marked the first and last posts of each row at this height and then snapped a chalk line across the other posts to indicate where to cut.
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RSS screws from GRK Fasteners help the construction adhesive to hold the beams together.
You have a couple of options when it comes to mounting the beams to the posts. You can cut the posts completely through and use galvanized braces to hold the beams on top. Or, you can notch the posts and fasten the beam with a couple of through-bolts at each post. I opted to use the metal Simpson braces, which you can pick up at Lowe’s or any number of other hardware stores—Simpson has more or less cornered the market on framing hardware, at least down here in the South.
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I temporarily clamped on a couple of scrap boards to hold the beam on top of the posts while fastening the connections.
Note: Cutting the posts is a critical phase of construction. Use a string level, a laser level, or a hand level attached to a very straight board to keep an eye on your cutting heights and to make sure everything is level from post to post and beam to beam. Every measurement at this point determines the flatness and level surface of your deck.
Additionally, in some cases it may be advisable to engineer a slight slope to the deck that pitches downward away from the house, especially if your decking material is a seamless system which could collect water. However, I was planning to install 2-by-6 treated lumber as deck boards, which naturally shrink as they dry and create plenty of space for drainage between the joints. So, I built a level deck.
Next, I installed the beams, one 2-by-10 at a time, using some clamps and scrap lumber as makeshift braces to hold the lumber atop the posts while I made the connections. With at least one end of the board fastened to the metal post hardware, I laminated another board against it using some heavy-duty RSS screws from GRK Fasteners along with plenty of construction adhesive sandwiched between them. Again, I may be over-building here, but I wanted this deck virtually bomb-proof. RSS screws are really gnarly fasteners, with many times the holding power of nails or regular screws. Once driven, they aren’t going to budge. And, if there are any bows or warps in the lumber, the RSS screws are powerful enough to bite the lumber and pull it flush with the mating board. I drove two RSS screws slightly offset every 16 inches along the beams.
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With a 40-foot run for each beam, it was necessary to splice the boards together. When doing this, always locate the splice over a post to eliminate any weak spots in the beams. I also ran the beams a bit long on each end, with plans to cut them to size later.
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I covered the tops of the beams and joists with joist tape to shed water and prevent rot.
Another extra step I took with both the beams and the joists was to flash the tops of the framing members to shed water. This is a commonly overlooked step, but a great way to prevent accumulation of water which can lead to rot and overall weakening of the construction. Plus, application is so easy that it’s well worth the extra effort. I used joist tape(butyl tape), which comes in rolls, either 2 or 4 inches wide, which you roll out just like duct tape over the tops of the joists. The product is a self-adhesive asphalt mastic that creates a waterproof membrane and self-seals around screws and nails, blocking a primary pathway for water infiltration into deck joists.
Joist Installation
I was building with 2-by-8 joists running perpendicular to the house wall. Use the 3-4-5 rule or a large framing square to make sure you lay out the first joist square to the house. I then measured and marked the location of the following joists on 16-inch centers across the tops of the two beams.
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Shown here is the L-shaped jig I screwed to the ends of the joists during installation to serve as a spacer against the siding.
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The joists were connected to the beam with Simpson hurricane ties. Paslode’s new Positive Placement Metal Connector Nailer has a special guide tip designed to shoot nails right into the tiny holes of the metal hardware, which greatly simplifies installation.
When installing the joists I kept the ends about 3/4-inch away from the house siding to allow plenty of room for drainage and hopefully avoid debris accumulation. To do so I fashioned a simple L-shaped jig from scrap wood that I screwed to the end of each joist during installation. The jig gave me the consistent joist spacing I needed against the house.
These joists were catilevered, meaning they overhung the beams on each side by roughly 2-1/2 feet. Instead of fastening the ends with joist hangers as with the ledger-board method of construction, the joists were connected over each beam with Simpson Hurricane Ties, which keep them upright and stable in all directions. Again, I ran the 12-foot joists “wild,” snapped a chalk line over the ends after installation was complete, and trimmed them all to a matching length.
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After the joists are installed, add diagonal bracing between the posts and joists to stabilize the deck. Use a recip saw to cut the bracing flush with the tops of the joists.
Rim Shot
I capped the exposed ends of the joists with a 2-by-10 rim board, positioned with its upper edge about 1-1/2 inches above the tops of the joists to conceal the thickness of the nominal 2-by boards I was planning to install as the decking. To fight the tendency of the rim joist to twist, bow or cup, I drove four deck screws through the rim board and into the ends of each joist. (Once the decking was down I would drive a fifth screw through the rim and into the edge of the decking).
I was forced to splice together the rim board as well. Center the splices over a joist, predrill holes for the screws to avoid splitting the wood, and drive the screws into the joist ends at an angle. For a belt-and suspenders approach I also glued the splices in the rim board with construction adhesive.
Note: There are many different ways to build a deck. This design would eventually have similar 2-by-10 boards attached to the sides of the deck as fascia. For this reason, I made sure to leave at least 1-1/2 inch of rim board extending beyond the corners of the deck to conceal the end-grain of the two side-mounted fascia pieces. It always helps to plan ahead.
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Snap a chalk line across the ends of the joists and cut them to a matching length.
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Brace for It
At this point I gave my construction a little tug here and there, and I was happy to see it was fairly stable at this point, but not completely satisfactory. For extra stability I ventured beneath the framing to nail in diagonal 2-by-4 bracing from below. The bracing ran from the support posts to the joists, and I tacked three or four framing nails at each connection to prevent movement.
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When installing the rim board, use several fasteners per joist to prevent the board from cupping or warping.
Depending on where the posts were located in relation to the joists, I nailed from the side of the posts to the lower edge of the joist, or from the face of the post to the side of the joist. In some cases, the posts fell right between two joists, so I had to add some 2-by-8 blocking between the joists to give the braces a solid place to terminate. It does take some extra work, but you’ll be glad you invested it. I was amazed by how sturdy the bracing made the deck frame, knocking out practically any wiggle—and this was before the decking was installed which would tie everything together into a rigid and steadfast structure.
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Left: Code requires a minimum of two 1/2″ galvanized through=bolts driven through the full thickness of a 4×4 handrail post (no notching of the posts allowed). Right: For a rock-solid handrail system I included Simpson’s Post-to-Deck Framing Bracket. This may require installation of extra blocking, but the added safety is worth the effort and expense.
Guardrail Posts and Decking
Before installing the decking I added the 4-by-4 posts that would eventually support my handrail system. I made a mark on each 4-foot post at 36 inches, the length of the post that would extend above the decking surface. I then clamped the posts in position and used a spade bit to predrill two holes through the rim board (or joist, depending on location of the post) and all the way through the full 4-by-4 thickness at the bottom of the posts. I then drove galvanized 1/2-inch hex-bolts through the posts and tightened securely with nuts and washers.
But that’s not all. For a truly rock-solid handrail, Simpson Strong-Tie offers a galvanized Post-to-Deck Framing Bracket that not only fastens to one of the two through-bolts, but also connects flush to an adjacent framing member with galvanized screws. To use these brackets I did have to install additional blocking in the locations where the post didn’t happen to fall right at the intersection of the rim board and a joist, but it was worth it. Not that I would encourage my younger family members to swing from the handrails like orangutans, but it’s bound to happen and these brackets will give me peace of mind.
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I used a jigsaw to notch the first row of decking to fit around the posts, then completed the walking surface using treated 2×6’s as deck boards.
Finally, I was ready to install the treated 2-by-6 deck boards which would be stained and sealed after a month or two of drying time. Once the floor was down, the interconnection of the bracing, decking, framing and hardware worked together to create a war-ready deck platform that would barely budge at all—just what I was looking for with this freestanding deck. Now, to finish up the handrail system and build some stairs for access, which you can read about here: https://extremehowto.com/take-a-wood-deck-rail-to-the-next-level/
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Side Note
Treated Wood, Tried and True
Decking comes in all sorts of materials these days, from wood-plastic composites to PVC to aluminum decking. I’ve installed some beautiful composite decks as well as easy-to-install PVC decks, all with great success. And I’m not taking sides in regard to which material is better or worse, as I think there are advantages to each material, depending on the deck application and the personal taste of the homeowner.
However for this project, I chose Wolmanized Residential Outdoor pressure-treated lumber not only for the framing, but the decking as well. For aesthetic reasons, I wanted the deck to match the natural look of the surrounding wood fence I had built the year before, and I had a plan to use the same tone of wood stain to tie in a uniform color theme to the elements of the backyard. All 2-by-4s (for handrails) and 2-by-6s (for decking) are No. 1 grade southern pine. The 2-by-8s and 2-by-10s, used for joists and beams, are No. 2 grade southern pine. The 4-by-4 and 6-by-6 timbers are specified for ground-contact use, and all the wood was treated with the same preservative, copper azole type C preservative, which is the most common preservative for backyard projects.
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When building your next deck, you’ll definitely need to use treated lumber for the framing, but using treated wood as the decking also has big benefits. It offers a genuine natural appearance, it’s comfortable underfoot, it’s strong and durable, economical to purchase and easy to work with. It’s also fairly simple to maintain and serves as a renewable, earth-friendly material. To me, these characteristics meant treated lumber was the right choice for this deck. Learn more about using treated lumber for outdoor projects at wolmanizedwood.com.
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Cherry Jam Recipe
https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/6...?s=65&d=mm&r=gUpdated: October 7, 2023
By: Author Tracy R.
Home » Recipes » Cherry Jam Recipe
Cherry jam is classic for a reason. Simple, sweet, and delicious on everything from a toasted muffin to ice cream!
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Are you as thrilled about the royal baby news as we are?
As with the royal wedding a couple years back, we just can’t seem to hide our excitement for everything William & Kate. So, with cherries in season right now and a reason to celebrate, I decided to head to the kitchen and whip up a jam fit for royalty.
Based on cherries jubilee, the popular dessert made for one of Queen Victoria’s Jubilee celebrations, this jam also contains sweet cherries, citrus, and cherry brandy. Since some recipes call for currant jam as a thickener, I added in some red currants to help cut some of the sweetness from the cherries and sugar so that the resulting jam isn’t too cloying.
Perfect on a biscuit with your afternoon cup of tea!
If raspberries are still in season where you are, we bet you’d enjoy Tracy’s Raspberry Jam Recipe too!
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Cherry Jam Recipe
Tracy R.
Cherry jam is classic for a reason. Simple, sweet, and delicious on everything from a toasted muffin to ice cream!
Print Recipe
Pin Recipe
Prep Time 15 minutes mins
Cook Time 15 minutes mins
Total Time 30 minutes mins
Servings 80
Calories 47 kcal
Ingredients
1x2x3x
- 3 cups Fresh Cherries red
- 2 cups Red Currants
- 2 tablespoons Lemon Juice
- 1/4 cup Kirsch Brandy
- 1 3/4 ounces Powdered Pectin (one package)
- 4 cups Granulated Sugar
Instructions
- In a large sauce pan, combine the cherries, currants, lemon juice, and kirsch. Crush the fruit and then bring the mixture to a boil.
- Prepare your canning supplies. Bring the temperature of the glass jars up by processing them in hot water for several minutes, and heat a few cups of water in a small saucepan for the lids. Stir in the pectin until dissolved. Bring back to a boil, and then add in the sugar all at once. Boil hard for a minute longer.
- Skim off any foam and ladle the hot jam into the hot jars, leaving 1/4″ headspace. Place the lids and bands on top, screwing on the bands just until fingertip-tight.
- Place the full jars back into the boiling water and process 10 minutes.
- Remove from the water and place the jars on a towel. Let the jars cool. The seals should suck down (you’ll hear a popping noise as they do).
Nutrition
Calories: 47kcalCarbohydrates: 12gSugar: 11g
Keyword Canning, Cherries, Jams, Preserving, Summer
Posted on Published: July 26, 2013
https://secure.gravatar.com/avatar/6...s=100&d=mm&r=gBy Author Tracy R.Tracy's blog, Sugarcrafter, is a baking, canning, and occasional cooking blog that features from-scratch recipes using seasonal and local ingredients. Tracy also has her own side business, Sugarcrafter Sweets, making handcrafted confitures and selling them ...more
Categories Berries, Breakfast + Brunch, Canning + Preserving, Cooking Method, Fruit, Jam + Preserves, Seasonal Recipes, Summer
Home » Recipes » Cherry Jam Recipe
Cherry Jam Recipe - Food Fanatic