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Prepper safety 101: Tetanus, the silent killer lurking in your garage
07/25/2025 // Zoey Sky // 1.1K Views
Tags: Clostridium tetani, emergency medicine, first aid, homesteading, infections, off grid, preparedness, prepper, prepping, prevention, survival, survival medicine, survival skills, tetanus, tips, wound care
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- Tetanus is a severe bacterial infection caused by Clostridium tetani, which is commonly found in soil, dust and rusty objects. The bacteria can enter the body through cuts or puncture wounds and release a toxin that attacks the nervous system.
- Symptoms start mildly with muscle stiffness, difficulty swallowing or cramps, but can escalate to severe muscle spasms, breathing difficulties and paralysis. Without prompt medical treatment, tetanus can be fatal.
- Garages are ideal environments for tetanus bacteria due to the presence of dust, dirt and forgotten tools.
- Wear protective gear and regularly inspect and maintain tools to prevent injuries and infections.
- If you sustain a deep, dirty or rusty wound, seek medical help immediately. Your garage should be a safe space for work and storage. By taking simple precautions and staying vigilant, you can protect yourself and your family from tetanus and other hidden dangers.
Imagine this scenario: You’re in your garage, engrossed in a DIY project or perhaps just tackling that long-overdue cleaning.
Suddenly, you feel a sharp prick, like a rusty nail or an old screwdriver has found its way into your skin. You dismiss it as a minor injury, clean it up and move on.
But what you might not realize is that you’ve just invited a formidable adversary into your body. This hidden threat is tetanus, often referred to as "lockjaw," and it can turn deadly if not addressed promptly. (h/t to AskAPrepper.com)
What is tetanus?
Tetanus is a severe bacterial infection caused by Clostridium tetani, a bacterium commonly found in soil, dust and rusty objects. When this pathogen enters the body through a wound, it releases a potent toxin that attacks the nervous system.
The initial symptoms may seem innocuous, like muscle stiffness, difficulty swallowing or cramps. However, within days, they can escalate to severe muscle spasms, breathing difficulties and even full-body paralysis. Without immediate medical intervention, tetanus can be fatal.
Unlike many infections, tetanus is not contagious. It requires a direct entry point through a cut or puncture wound, making it a silent and insidious threat. You might not even realize you’re infected until it’s too late.
How you can get tetanus in your garage
Your garage is a prime breeding ground for tetanus bacteria. The combination of dust, dirt and forgotten tools creates an environment ripe for infection.
Here are some common ways tetanus can find its way into your body:
Rusty nails and sharp metal edges
Stepping on a rusty nail or cutting yourself on an old metal shelf can introduce tetanus bacteria into your bloodstream.
While rust itself doesn’t cause tetanus, it often indicates exposure to dirt and moisture, which are ideal conditions for the bacteria to thrive.
Dirty tools and old equipment
Tools stored without proper cleaning can harbor dirt and bacteria. Even a small nick from a dirty tool can lead to a serious infection.
Gardening and yard tools
If you keep your gardening tools in the garage, they likely carry soil residue, a primary source of C. tetani. A scratch from a dirty rake or hoe could be enough to cause an infection.
Preventing tetanus: Simple steps for safety
While tetanus is a dangerous infection, the good news is that it is largely preventable with some basic precautions:
Wear protective gear
When working in the garage, especially with sharp or dirty tools, wear thick gloves and long sleeves. This simple barrier can significantly reduce the risk of cuts and punctures.
Regularly inspect and maintain tools
Clean your tools after each use and check for signs of rust or damage.
Store them in dry, sealed areas to prevent contamination. A few minutes of maintenance can save your life.
What to do if you get injured
Accidents happen, even to the most cautious among preppers. If you sustain a cut or puncture in your garage, take these immediate steps:
- Clean the wound - Once you get injured, carefully rinse the wound. Do it thoroughly with soap and running water. Remove any dirt or debris.
- Apply antiseptic - Use an antiseptic to disinfect the area and cover the wound with a clean bandage.
- Seek medical attention - If the wound is deep, dirty or caused by a rusty object, seek medical help immediately.
Be vigilant for early symptoms of tetanus, such as jaw stiffness, muscle cramps, trouble swallowing or unexplained headaches. These could be warning signs that require emergency treatment.
Other hidden dangers in your garage
While tetanus is a significant concern, it’s not the only danger lurking in your garage.
Here are a few more threats to be aware of:
Clutter and falling objects
A cluttered garage can be a hazard during emergencies. Keep walkways clear and secure heavy items to prevent them from falling. (Related: Emergency medicine: Essential first aid skills for survival.)
Insecure garage openers and locks
Upgrade to a modern, secure garage door opener and reinforce locks to prevent unauthorized access.
Chemicals and hazardous materials
Many garages contain chemicals like paint, pesticides and solvents. These can cause severe burns, lung damage, or poisoning if mishandled.
Always store them in labeled, sealed containers and wear protective gear when handling them.
Combustible liquids and flammable fuels
Gasoline, propane and other fuels are highly flammable. Store them in approved containers, away from ignition sources and never smoke near them.
Faulty wiring and electrical hazards
Old or damaged wiring can lead to fires or electrocution. Regularly inspect your garage’s electrical system and replace any questionable wiring.
Mold and hidden fungi
Poor ventilation and leaks can lead to mold growth, which can cause respiratory issues and other health problems.
Use a dehumidifier if needed and repair any water damage promptly.
Dangerous tools and power equipment
Always use safety guards and wear protective gear when operating tools. Keep them stored securely to prevent accidents.
Your garage should be a safe space for work and storage, not a minefield of hidden dangers. By taking simple precautions and staying vigilant, you can protect yourself and your family from tetanus and other threats.
Visit Health Ranger Store and Brighteon Store to browse lab-verified products for your prepping needs. EmergencyMedicine.news has more useful first aid tips.
Watch the video below for some useful prepping tips for beginners.
This video is from the Survival Prepper For Beginners channel on Brighteon.com.
More related stories:
The science of extraction: How alcohol-free green tea tinctures are made.
Prepper first aid: DIY antiseptics for wound care.
The minimalist prepper: How owning less can prepare you for more when disaster strikes.
Sources include:
AskAPrepper.com
CDC.gov
MY.ClevelandClinic.org
Brighteon.com
Prepper safety 101: Tetanus, the silent killer lurking in your garage – NaturalNews.com
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10 HP Hovercraft
By mickydee in WorkshopWoodworking
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Introduction: 10 HP Hovercraft
https://content.instructables.com/F5...AxNjo1MjozMy4w
https://content.instructables.com/F9...me=1&width=130By mickydeeFollow
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About: My name is Roland MacDonald, my friends call me Mac I am a retired but not bored engineer My great joy is my workshop, a two car garage with heat and air. I am a private pilot with 1800 hours flying time I hav… More About mickydee »
I was looking for a project that my Grandson and I could build. together. We decided on a hovercraft after watching a TV special. Knowing absolutely nothing about hovercraft we researched the web on the subject and found the Universal Hovercraft website to be the best source.
We had an old 10 HP Briggs horizontal shaft electric start engine from an old riding mower that looked like it would fit the bill. We bought the plans for their UH10F craft. We liked it because it only uses one motor. Most hovercraft use a separate motor for lift and thrust. This one directs approximately 1/3 of the thrust air to provide both lift and inflating the skirt. Most of the materials could be found at the local builders supply.
The only parts we needed to buy from Universal Hovercraft were the Plans, propeller, propeller hub, and the skirt material. Although it busted our $500 budget we decided to purchase their materials kit which included all the epoxy, fiberglass , screws, and glue. The skirt is the heart of this thing and we didn't want to save penny's on something this critical. It was a fun project for the both of us. It would be a great Father and Son project.
Step 1: TOOLS AND MATERIALS LIST
https://content.instructables.com/FP...AxNDoyMDoxOS4w
Tools required
Table saw to cut 4 X 8 Foam and plywood
Keyhole saw or saws all to cut openings for air ducts
Scroll saw for plywood duct and body peices
Shop vac for vacuum blanket
Two to four saw horses
Several plastic squeegees
Basic hand tools
Materials list
From home depot cost about $80
For the hull
1 sheet 1" white Styrofoam
4 sheets 2" blue construction foam 4 x 8
4 sheets 1 /8" plywood (doesn't have to be marine)
2 12' lengths 1 x 2 lumber( pine is fine)
Hardware kit from Universal Hovercraft $349
This kit contains every little thing you will need to complete this project including
Plans, fiberglass, skirt, glue , skrit screws,epoxy, and a 24' steering cable
DRIVE KIT from Universal Hovercraft $159
Includes propeller, hub, and bushings
MISC. $20
Small roll plastic sheeting 2 to 4 mills
Paint
Total cost of the project was around $600 plus the cost of a new or used motor.
Step 2: BUILDING THE HULL
https://content.instructables.com/FK...AxNDoyNzowNS4w
Cut the 2" foam to make a 5' X10' rectangle. This dimension will provide a floatation of 600 lbs. If you need to support more weight double up on the foam. It won't weight much more. Skin the top side with the 1/8" plywood. Cut and glue the plywood strips to the foam, and then glue the 1 x 2 strips to the plywood. With a scroll saw cut the two holes for the lift, and skirt air.Glue a 6" wide piece of plywood across the hull where you will instal the motor support post.
Step 3: VACUMN BAGGING
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The underside of the hull must be waterproof . The entire underside is covered with fiberglass cloth and epoxy. This can get a little messy if you are not careful. It is important to get all the air bubbles out before it dries. A simple vacuum blanket pulls everything down tight. Don't let this scare you it is really quite easy. First cover the freshly epoxied fiberglass with a layer of thin plastic sheet. Then cover the sheet with a blanket.
This way the blanket won't stick to the fiberglass. Cover the blanket with a larger piece of plastic sheeting and tape it down to the floor all around the edges Make a small slit in the plastic and plug in the vacuum hose from your shop vac. Turn it on and watch the vacuum pull it down to the floor. If it won't pull a vacuum check for leaks in the tape. I ran the vacuum for about two hours and did a great job. When you take it apart the plastic will pull of easily as it will not stick to the fiberglass
Step 4: Underside of the Hull Is Now Complete
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This is what the underside of the hull should look like
Step 5: MAKING THE DUCT
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The duct is made from less dense 1" white Styrofoam. The plans show you how to lay out a curving arc that will wrap around the plywood plugs in the middle. Start by screwing together the two plywood discs to spacers the width of the duct. Wrap thee discs with a band of 1/8"plywood. After you cut the ducts to the proper shape (arc) Cut kerfs 3/4" deep all around the inside of the ducts so they will bend around the form easily. Be sure and maintain the exact centers of the discs. Later you will drill them out to the size of your motors crankshaft. Don't separate the duct from the form at this time. When it gets to be time to locate the duct to the hull these holes will let you mount the duct perfectly in line with your engine shaft. The plans go into great detail on this step and we didn't have any problems with it.
Step 6: MAKING THE MOTOR SUPPORT POST
https://content.instructables.com/F8...AxNDoyNzoyOC4w
Cut a 2 x 4 piece of pine to the length specified in the plans And put it in the hole cut into the hull (center line of craft) Use plenty of epoxy for this. Cut a base plate from 3/4" plywood for mounting the engine. Fit rear legs from pine and drill and screw braces everywhere you can. This will keep vibration to a minimum I used gorilla glue in every joint. I put epoxy lay ups all around the post for added strength.
Step 7: MOUNTING THE DUCT
https://content.instructables.com/F8...AxNDoyNzoyOS4w
Temporarily mount the motor in place and drill the plywood disc to the size of your crank shaft. Set the duct in place and align it up with the motor crank. Use shims to assure good alignment. When you are satisfied that it looks straight anchor the duct in place with spray can expanding foam. Put it on heavy as it can be shaped or removed easily with a knife or file. When it hardens you should have a rigid mounted duct that is aligned with the motor crank shaft lined up with the center of the duct. At this time you can remove the plywood discs from the duct by removing the screws that hold the spacers. It should pop right out.
Step 8: THE PROPELLER
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You can buy the prop two ways, either finished or unfinished. You can save a lot of money by finishing your prop your self.
First slide the prop onto the crank without the hub to see if it fits inside the duct without binding. A duct is most efficient when the prop fits closely inside the duct. Be very careful when removing tip material, it's easy to cutoff but hard to put back . Once you have the tip clearance set you can begin to sand the blades with a power sander and finish by hand. Once you get it smooth you MUST balance it to avoid vibration.
Hang the prop on a rod held in a vise to see which blade is heavier than the other. Don't short cut by shortening the tips. Just keep sanding the blades. Most props are pretty close when they arrive so it is not an undaunted task. Once it is balanced give it a couple coats of paint to preserve it. It's a good idea to paint a white band at the tips for safety's sake. By now the foam is hard so you can cut the bottom of the duct with a sabre saw to conform with the openings in the hull for lift air. Now is a good time to trial fit the prop and hub to the motor to make sure it runs true inside the duct. The motor should be bolted down securely. Turn the prop over slowly by hand. Check for at least 1/8" clearance all around. You can adjust by putting small shims under the motor mounts if needed.
Step 9: BUILD THE AIR CHAMBER
https://content.instructables.com/FR...AxNDoyNDoxNC4w
The purpose of the air chamber is to divide the air flow between lift and thrust. The picture doesn't show it in it's proper place. We just needed a flat area to glue and fiberglass it together It is made from 1/8" plywood
Step 10: Install the Air Chamber
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Slide the three sided chamber in place and glue or fiberglass in place. I prefer to use fiberglass when ever possible. When the bond is set install the top of the box. You will probably have to put a weight on the rear to hold it tightly to the bottom frame. When it is dry fiber glass the edges and you are done with the air box
Step 11: THE RUDDERS
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The rudders are cut from 1" foam. Drill holes in the top and bottom to fit dowel pins. Glue the dowel pin in the bottom. The top pin just drops in to allow for removal of the rudder. i used a belt sander to fashion an airfoil to make them lighter and more aerodynamic. Don't make them too thin. Cover the rudders with one layer of fiberglass to give them strength. Glue small drilled blocks at the top of the duct, and the air chamber to receive the dowel pins. Connect the two rudders together at the bottom dowel pin with a short length of aluminum or wood stock. This is where the steering cables are attached. Run the cables through the air box and route them through eyelets to the control stick. Don't terminate them yet until you build the body. We used a 2' long piece of
of 1" PVC for a control stick.
Step 12: MAKE IT LOOK GOOD WITH a BODY
https://content.instructables.com/FK...AwOToyNDo1OS4w
Start by laying out the basic shape with a marking pen and screwing 3/4" stock to the line. The 1/8" plywood bends easily to conform to the shape. Next clamp and glue the 3/4" stringers to the top. Fit a 2 x 4 between the sides to form a dash board.This is a good time to attach the throttle cable to either the dash or the side strips. Later on we put a lanyard connected to the kill switch in the dash. This is a requirement if you want to run it in any sanctioned races. Cover the top with a plywood sheet and fit some scrap foam to form the nose piece. Run the steering cables through the sides and attach them to the stick. Make a little seat that feels comfortable. We padded ours with some foam and scrap vinyl. Paint the whole craft with a couple coats of any paint you may have laying around. We chose white because it stays cool even in direct sunlight. A little trim color makes it unique to you and really makes it stand out. Now that it is painted is a good time to add a screen to stop wayward hands and arms from geting into the prop area. That could ruin a good day. We had some left over wire fencing and fashioned a guard from that. We also added four lifting handles in the corners to aid in lifting it on and off a trailer.
Step 13: THE SKIRT
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I am sorry that I didn't take pictures of the skirt installation but the plans go into great detail on this step. I put the craft up on horses to make it easy to get at the inside attachment. The key to a good skirt is in the corners. They are over lapped and glued with the special glue tat is supplied by Universal Hovercraft. The skirt is held in place by 200 stainless screws and washers. The only tricky part is the screws around the rear of the air box. The skirt is very rugged and we have not had any trouble with it.
Step 14: THE BIG DAY THE TEST DRIVE
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The first thing we did was to drag it outside and start it up to check on how it hovered. The skirt filled up with air at a little more than idle and we could push it around easily. We gave it more throttle and it began to move forward. My grandson got in first and drove it all around the back yard. It seemed to respond good to steering control but we learned that it tends to side slip if you are going too fast when you go into the turn. Next I got in and also had good results. Time for the water tests. We took the hovercraft to my best friends house, he lives on a 1000 acre lake and has a small beach to launch from. The craft floats well on it's own and with a person that weighs 200 lbs. I elected to be the test pilot and put on a life jacket for safety. Starting the engine brought it up to a nice hover. Increasing the throttle a bit started the craft moving forward and away from the beach. More throttle and it began to move forward more briskly. It seemed to handle really good. at full throttle until I tried my first turn. To my surprise I started to go sidewise and then backwards. With a little experience I learned to lean my body into the turns and reduce throttle slightly and was able to negotiate the turns much better. I don't know how fast I was going because I don't have a speed indicator, but I left a pretty good wake. Leaning forward seemed to increase the speed. When my grandson took his turn he seemed to go a little faster than me and he was riding more level than I was. I think maybe the seat should be a little more forward. We really had a blast and 8 or10 people of all sizes and weights tried it out. The heaviest guy weighed around 300 lbs. Although it floated well, he could not get the performance that we could. Under 225 lbs. was O.K.
We played for 2 hours and burned two tanks of gas and didn't have any problems. All in all it was a great test day, This craft is fun, easy to drive, and proved to be very safe. Our youngest pilot was 10 or 12 years old . My only other comment would be to install a quieter exhaust as the neighbors were not impressed with the noise. It attracted a lot of attention as many people had never seen a hovercraft before.
Step 15: A SHORT VIDEO
Some how I misplaced the longer video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UA-aLoIj3dg&t=1s
HPIM0656
10 HP Hovercraft : 15 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=02tWR0k5TXI
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Solo Overnight Building a Concrete Block Shelter In the Woods and a Ribeye Skillet
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Why Keep Those Old Cook Books?
How Your local Grocer is Told to Prepare for Disaster
DIY Water Filter Distiller
- By Storm in Bugging In, DIY, Frugal, Hunker Down Prepping, Off Grid, Prepping, Recycle, SHTF, Survival, Water
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DIY Water Filter Distiller
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We all worry about clean water after any disaster manmade or natural. Water is the essence of life. No matter which in which country, state, or region you reside in, water is going to be a priority find during a crisis. You may think ahh but there is a lake just down the road, or it rains all the time here, etc.. But during a disaster you won’t want to drink from any source without filtering it. No matter the crisis everything around you is more than likely become contaminated.
We should always be able to make our water safe and one way of doing it is to distill it.
This DIY distiller could make all the difference. See it and how you can make one yourself at our featured blog from Ask a Prepper linked below
How to Make Your Own Distiller at Home To Filter And Desalinate Water
https://www.thepreparedpage.com/wp-c...99488492_n.jpgThis is an aggregated site. Please be aware some of the sites we link you to could have pop ups. We have no control over them. However, we will never link you to a site that requires you to make any purchase to view the blog.
Please read our disclaimer. We provide you with information from various sites all over the world. The author’s expressed opinion isn’t necessarily that of The Prepared Page or its staff. Our intent is to bring you the information. Use your common sense and your own best judgment when using any information contained within the blogs.
While you’re here check out some of those other posts you may find them interesting!!!
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DIY Water Filter Distiller - The Prepared Page
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10 Items to Include in Your Car Kit
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DIY Portable Solar Generator
Share the knowledge!
DIY Portable Solar Generator
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Solar power for a SHTF situation is going to be essential. These instructions are more of an overview for a simple system built with what was available. However, it is a good model for a simple Off Grid solar generator system that’s got a little bit of kick behind it. The builder used the power from this trailer to operate several small appliances and odd things that we don’t always have an power outlet available for like Christmas lighting.
This little generator can be attached to a bike for easier transportation the battery does give it more weight then you would want to carry. In an non-SHTF scenario think of how this could be used during football season for tailgating!
Post SHTF the ideas are unnumbered! For the instructions read at the titled link below
DIY Portable Solar Generator
https://www.thepreparedpage.com/wp-c...99488492_n.jpgThis is an aggregated site. Please be aware some of the sites we link you to could have pop ups. We have no control over them. However, we will never link you to a site that requires you to make any purchase to view the blog.
Please read our disclaimer. We provide you with information from various sites all over the world. The author’s expressed opinion isn’t necessarily that of The Prepared Page or its staff. Our intent is to bring you the information. Use your common sense and your own best judgment when using any information contained within the blogs.
While you’re here check out some of those other posts you may find them interesting!!!
Some posts may contain affiliate links.
You may also like:
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DIY Biodiesel
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DIY Portable Solar Generator - The Prepared Page
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcx1Yi67Jh8
I turn Washing Machine Motor into 220v electric Generator - YouTube
HOA KỲ
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DIY Vaseline Make it at Home
DIY Oil Lamps
DIY Windmill Building
- By Survivor 002 in Frugal, Homesteading, Prepping, SHTF, Survival, Technology, Tutorials
Share the knowledge!
DIY Windmill Building
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Image Source: myshowmeamovie
Having alternative energy sources for survival is probably on every preppers mind. Also with rising energy costs important to all home owners. Solar is expensive and a bit spotty as it relies on sunshine. With wind generators you are reliant on the wind and ordinarily there is more often still wind even when there isn’t sunshine. A windmill is a great back up or primary for an alternative source of power.
This is a great DIY project you can do in your own back yard and doesn’t cost a small fortune. Just because you are reliant on wind to generate power shouldn’t stop you from making one because there is always more wind than sun, especially in winter time. So check out the tutorial below:
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Please read our disclaimer. We provide you with information from various sites all over the world. The author’s expressed opinion isn’t necessarily that of The Prepared Page or its staff. Our intent is to bring you the information. Use your common sense and your own best judgment when using any information contained within the blogs.
While you’re here check out some of those other posts you may find them interesting!!!
Some posts may contain affiliate links.
You may also like:
DIY Ammo Box Grill
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DIY Well Installation
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DIY Windmill Building - The Prepared Page
https://th.bing.com/th/id/OIP.J-AgcU...6&pid=1.7&rm=3
[PDF] FM 21-76 US ARMY SURVIVAL MANUAL
FM 21-76 US ARMY SURVIVAL MANUAL Consider all aspects of your situation (size up your situation) before you make a decision and a move. If you act in haste, you may forget or lose some of your equipment.
Microsoft Word - FM 21-76 US ARMY SURVIVAL MANUAL-Abridged.doc
https://th.bing.com/th/id/OIP.J-AgcU...6&pid=1.7&rm=3
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Alternative energy sources-wind power: Homemade windmill
Alternative energy sources-wind power: Homemade windmill
https://yt3.ggpht.com/ytc/AIdro_lX3f...00ffffff-no-rjAESourceschannel
166 subscribers
14,461 views May 18, 2012
Click here: http://alternativeenergysourcesv.com
Wind power has become the need of the hour. This project is about the simplest windmill that anybody can make and it's very affective
These are all the parts that you'll need:
1. 27" Snow Shovels
2. 4" Round Weatherproof Box
3. 4" Round Weatherproof Cover
4. Galvanized Pipe Nipple, 3/4-Inch X 12-Inch
5. EMT Snap N Set Screw Connector, 3/4"
6. J-B Weld
7. Self-Drilling Screws
8. Pillow Block Bearings
9. a stick of 3/4" EMT electrical conduit for more information on wind power as an alternative energy source
Visit :http://alternativeenergysourcesv.com/...
Credits to http://www.SolarPowerSimplified.com
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlMlEkR704U
The Easiest Wind Generator You'll Ever Make
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Master the art of wilderness survival with Dave Canterbury’s “Advanced Bushcraft”
07/27/2025 // Kevin Hughes // 770 Views
Tags: Advanced Bushcraft, animal hides, bow and drill, BUSHCRAFT, char, combustion devices, containers, cordage, crafting, cutting tools, Dave Canterbury, environment, firecraft, Flint, log cabins, meat preservation, microclimates, repairing clothing, Shelters, solar fire, steel, survival, watercraft, weaving, wilderness, woodworking
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- Dave Canterbury's "Advanced Bushcraft" is a detailed manual for long-term wilderness survival, focusing on thriving (not just surviving) through advanced skills and resource management.
- Central to the book is the "Ten Cs of Survivability" (e.g., cutting tools, combustion devices), with explanations on effective tool use and kit-building for comfort and extended stays.
- Chapters cover using natural resources (e.g., trees for medicine/adhesives), crafting wooden tools and fire-starting techniques like bow-and-drill or solar fire, emphasizing adaptability.
- Includes shelter construction (log cabins, earthen structures), food preservation (plant/meat), hide tanning and ethical trapping – highlighting self-reliance and environmental harmony.
- Covers knot-tying, blacksmithing, woodworking and crafting containers/conveyances (e.g., dugout canoes), positioning the book as essential for serious outdoors enthusiasts.
In the vast, unpredictable realm of the wilderness, where nature reigns supreme, mastering the art of survival is no small feat. Enter Dave Canterbury's "Advanced Bushcraft: An Expert Field Guide to the Art of Wilderness Survival," a comprehensive manual that transcends the basics and equips readers for long-term survival in the untamed world.
This book is not just a guide; it is a testament to the dedication and meticulous preparation required to thrive in the wild. Canterbury, a renowned survival expert, dedicates his book to his wife and father, acknowledging the support and work ethic that have been instrumental in his journey. This personal touch underscores the human element behind the expertise, reminding readers that every master was once a student.
The book opens with an introduction that sets the tone for what lies ahead. Canterbury emphasizes that "Advanced Bushcraft" is about elevating one's skills to a level where survival transforms into thriving. The cornerstone of this transformation is resource management. In the wilderness, one cannot rely on carrying everything needed; instead, understanding how to utilize the environment and its resources is paramount.
Central to Canterbury's philosophy is the "Ten Cs of Survivability," an expansion of the traditional "Five Cs." These essential items – cutting tools, combustion devices, containers, cordage and more – are the backbone of any survival kit.
However, Canterbury goes beyond mere listing. He delves into the effective use of these tools, ensuring that readers not only pack wisely but also understand the nuances of each item.
The chapters of "Advanced Bushcraft" are a masterclass in wilderness survival. Chapter One, "Building Your Kit," is a detailed guide on preparation, covering everything from clothing to footwear, and emphasizing the importance of comfort for extended stays. Canterbury's tips on assembling a sleep system highlight the critical role of rest in survival.
In Chapter Two, "Natural Resources," Canterbury explores the environment's bounty. He discusses various trees and their uses, from pine resin as a natural adhesive to willow leaves for pain relief, illustrating how nature provides abundantly when one knows where to look.
Chapter Three, "Wooden Tools and Simple Machines," introduces the concept of improvising tools from natural materials. Canterbury demonstrates how to create functional and sustainable tools, from throwing sticks to simple woodland machines like wedges and levers.
"Advanced Firecraft," the fourth chapter, is a deep dive into fire-starting methods, including the bow and drill and flint and steel. Canterbury underscores the importance of mastering these techniques, especially in emergency scenarios. He also covers solar fire and the use of char material for ignition, providing a comprehensive understanding of firecraft.
Chapter Five, "Sheltering," offers a detailed guide to creating a safe and comfortable living space. Canterbury covers the Four Ws (wind, water, wood and widowmakers) and provides insights into permanent shelter options like log cabins and earthen structures. His tips on securing shelters and creating microclimates enhance the reader's ability to adapt to the environment.
The subsequent chapters cover a wide array of skills. Chapter Six focuses on "Knots, Bindings, Weaving and Looms," delving into the art of cordage and rope-making. Canterbury introduces weaving techniques and the use of looms for creating large-scale items.
Chapter Seven, "Trapping," covers animal behavior and trapping methods, emphasizing ethical considerations and respect for wildlife. Chapter Eight, "Preserving Food Sources," provides detailed instructions on processing and preserving plant-based foods and meat preservation techniques. Chapter Nine, "Hide Preservation, Tanning and Clothing Repair," guides readers through working with animal hides, from processing to crafting and repairing clothing.
Chapter 10, "Woodworking," highlights the importance of understanding different types of wood and how to work with them. Chapter 11 introduces "Blacksmithing," a skill Canterbury deems invaluable for long-term survival, providing a basic overview of the craft and the tools needed for small projects.
The final chapter, "Containers and Conveyances," emphasizes the importance of creating and using various containers and watercraft, from birch bark containers to bull boats and dugouts. Canterbury's detailed instructions ensure that readers are equipped with the knowledge to craft these essential items.
"Advanced Bushcraft" is a treasure trove of knowledge for anyone seeking to deepen their understanding of wilderness survival. Whether you are a seasoned outdoorsperson or a beginner, this book offers valuable insights and practical tips that will serve you well in the wild.
Watch this video about Dave Canterbury's book "Advanced Bushcraft: An Expert Field Guide to the Art of Wilderness Survival."
This video is from the BrightLearn channel on Brighteon.com.
Sources include:
Brighteon.ai
Brighteon.com
Master the art of wilderness survival with Dave Canterbury’s “Advanced Bushcraft” – NaturalNews.com