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Bee Keeping
By Nick-LaDieu
April 8, 2011
http://www.saveourskills.com/
Printable View
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Bee Keeping
By Nick-LaDieu
April 8, 2011
http://www.saveourskills.com/
Building Top Bars 1/2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnLpk5hM ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnLpk...eature=related
Building Top Bars 2 of 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3f8A_6N9 ... A61F171844
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3f8A_6N96CE&playnext=1&list=PL0B97 57A61F17 1844
more how too videos on the right side of the page
more detailed videos at the bottom of the page
Building your Top Bar Hive - Learning Beekeeping http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQIf_sw1 ... 44&index=3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQIf_sw1DsY&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=3
Honey harvest Tutorial - Crush and Strain 1 of 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4R0jJAhR ... 44&index=4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4R0jJAhRrnw&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=4
Honey harvest Tutorial - Crush and Strain 2 of 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAZoI9gg ... 44&index=5
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAZoI9gg-8Q&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9757A61F171844& ;index=5
Learning Top Bar Hive Beekeeping - Fixing Comb 1/2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myBsToAM ... 44&index=6
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myBsToAMnNk&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=6
Learning Top Bar Hive Beekeeping - Fixing Comb 2/2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-GwRxh9 ... 44&index=7
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-GwRxh9kg4&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9757A61F171 844&inde x=7
Solar Wax Melters for beekeepers http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FUhAYDM ... 44&index=8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2FUhAYDMgic&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=8
Learning Top Bar Hive Beekeeping - Pests 1/2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCPNa3mT ... 44&index=9
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCPNa3mTP88&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=9
Learning Top Bar Hive Beekeeping - Pests 2/2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCInx28f ... 4&index=10
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCInx28fnJQ&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=10
Learning Top Bar Hive Beekeeping - Comb managment 1/2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xv-SWG_d ... 4&index=11
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xv-SWG_dDCA&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9757A61F1718 44&index =11
Learning Top Bar Hive Beekeeping - Comb Managmenet 2 of 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g09erBKr ... 4&index=12
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g09erBKrmeI&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=12
Tidbits on Top Bar Hives http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7_L1c0C ... 4&index=13
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7_L1c0Cks0&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=13
Top Bar Hive Spring inspection - 1 of 3 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7xFhAuz ... 4&index=14
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7xFhAuzOw8&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=14
Top Bar Hive Spring Inspection 2 of 3 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NM86FXXE ... 4&index=15
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NM86FXXE9K8&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=15
Top Bar Hive - Spring Inspection 3 of 3 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIGi2VIO ... 4&index=16
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIGi2VIOlYI&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=16
Inspecting Top Bar Beehive - Part 1 of 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Li6Dquq2 ... 4&index=17
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Li6Dquq2Y8M&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=17
Inspecting Top Bar Beehive - Part 2 of 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PgexIpP1 ... 4&index=18
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PgexIpP1Bwo&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=18
Making Top Bar Hive Cutout Frames http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIj78zig ... 4&index=19
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uIj78zig9gM&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=19
Top Bar Hive comb collapse http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZfKBw3l ... 4&index=20
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZfKBw3lHtw&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=20
Building your Top Bar Hive - Learning Beekeeping http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQIf_sw1 ... 4&index=21
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQIf_sw1DsY&feature=BFa&list=PL0B9 757A61F1 71844&index=21
My Top-bar Hives Design http://topbarbees.wordpress.com/about/design/
Part of the fun of starting beekeeping in top-bar hives was designing my own. Unlike Langstroth hives, there is no standard top-bar hive. I looked at the top-bar hives on the web, and came up with the features that I wanted to include. Some of the sites that I found most useful in designing my top-bar hives were Dennis Murrell’s site, Michael Bush’s site, Leonard Barton’s site, and Michael Thomas’s site.
I used Google’s free SketchUp. Its a simple to use, and allows you draw and design in 3D. It was first valuable in designing the hives. It nice to be able to see how thing look in 3D and how all the parts fit together. I went through about 7 or 8 major redesigns (essentially starting over with the new ideas added in). In the end, I ended up with a hive design that I liked. It may not be the simplest top-bar hive design, but its not overly complicated or hard to build, is reasonably cheap to build, and has lots of nice features. Once I started actually building, SketchUp became valuable again. The 3D model acted like blueprints and I could measure any parts dimensions and angles. I have uploaded the full plans to Google’s 3D Warehouse. My hive plans are available there under the name of “Kawayanan’s Kenyan Top-Bar Hive“.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...th_ktbh-v1.pnghttp://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...bh-v1_rear.png
Here are the major features:
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...-v1_inside.pnghttp://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...v1_inside2.pnghttp://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...under-roof.png
- Its a Kenyan top-bar hive, so it has sloped sides (sturdier comb shape, and easier to remove)
- Built in legs (removable if needed)
- Sloped roof that I covered in aluminum flashing
- Upper entrance (ventilation and safer from critters like mice, skunks, etc.)
- Clean out doors at the front and back
- Screened bottom with a removable bottom board
- Slot in the rear to use a standard entrance feeder with access only through the hive (less chance or robbing)
- The main body of two hives can be made from one 8′x4′ 3/4″ plywood sheet with the rest made mainly of 2×4′s or 2×2′s (reasonably inexpensive)
- I think it look nice http://s0.wp.com/wp-includes/images/...?m=1306902190g
In addition, in the 3D model of my design I included a layout of all the 3/4″ plywood body parts on a 8′x4′ sheet. This shows how you can cleanly get two full hives worth of parts from one sheet.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...wood-sheet.png
Here is a rough list of all the lumber and parts needed to complete 2 full hives:
Using My Design in Google Sketchup
- 1 4′x8′ 3/4″ sheet of plywood (for the sides and ends)
- 2 8′ pressure treated 2×4′s (or 10′ depending on how long you want the legs)
- 12 8′ 1×2′s for the 60 top-bars (I think thats probably about right, but I will most likely make more to have a few extra)
- 4 8′ 2×2′s for the roof frame
- 1 4′x8′ sheet of panel board for the roof and removable bottom board (I actually got tile board because it has a nice white finish on one side)
- 2 10′x20″ rolls of aluminum flashing to cover the roof (for a nice weather resistant and shiny top)
- 1 8′ 2×4 to make the ridge pole of the roof
- 2 linear feet of 36″ wide #8 hardware cloth for the screened bottom
- 8 hinges for the clean out doors (and some sort of latch to keep them shut)
- nuts and bolts to attach the legs
- screws, nails, staples, and wood glue
I’ve had a few question about how to use my model. First off, you need to download the model from Google’s 3D Warehouse (my model is found here). You will also need Google Sketchup to read the file and get the measurements. I have version 6, and the screen shots below are from that version.
After you install Sketchup, you can open my model. Each part of the hives is a separate component, so you can take it apart and measure each piece individually. There are two tools you will need to get all the measurements and angles, the “tape measure” and the “protractor”. To easy access to these tools, you can make the Construction toolbar active (under View-Toolbars-Construction).
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...on_toolbar.png
The construction toolbar is at the bottom left of the picture. First, lets look at the “tape measure”. Its the button that looks like a tape measure. http://s0.wp.com/wp-includes/images/...?m=1306902190g
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...pe_measure.png
When you click on it, your mouse pointer should start to look like a tape measure too. All you need to do to measure any object is to click at one end of what you are measuring, then click at the other end. You will probably see the measurement by the mouse pointer when you make the second click, but you will also see it at the bottom right of the Sketchup window. If you make the first click, you can also read the distances without a second click if you stop moving the mouse pointer at any point (the measurement should be given both at he mouse pointer and at the bottom right of the window).
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...e_measure1.png
The protractor tool is locate right near the tape measure tool in the Construction toolbar.
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...protractor.png
When you click on this, your mouse pointer will become a circular protractor. Move the over the center point of the angle you want to measure. The protractor circle can be on multiple faces of an object, so move it a little until its on the correct face, and at the center point of the angle to be measured (in my example below, I am measuring the angle of the bottom of the clean-out door), marked with a “1st”). Then click once on that point. Next, click along one side of the angel you want to measure (in my example below I clicked on the endpoint of the edge – labeled with a “2nd”). Then, click on the other side of the angle you are measuring (marked “3rd” in my example). Now, the angle measurment is located in the bottom right of the Sketchup window. Thats it. http://s0.wp.com/wp-includes/images/...?m=1306902190g
http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f3...rotractor1.png
You should be able to do this with any piece, and get at the measurements you would need to build the hives. I kept my laptop with me, open to the model while building so that I could easily check any measurements as I went. If you want to learn a bunch more about how to use Google Sketchup, you can start by doing the Tutorials that are include with it. You can find them under the “Help” menu. Ther are also links to online help.
To read the construction of my hives, check here.
http://topbarbees.wordpress.com/about/design/
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How To Build A Top Bar Hive http://www.lulu.com/product/ebook/how-t ... e/15321150
Make Your Own Gravity Fed Home Water Filtration System
By Cash | March 30, 2011 | DIY Projects
Note from Nick: Thanks to Cash for contributing this great article. I personally own the Royal Berkey system from Jeff “The Berkey Guy” at Directive 21 and think it is a great addition to any home from both a practical standpoint and aesthetic standpoint, however if you have been looking to make a quick little project and save some money this is a great way to make your own Berkey-Style water filter. Not to mention that home filtration is a basic prep I think everyone should have. If you end up getting the fitlers from Jeff over at Directive 21 please tell them that you are purchasing because of Save Our Skills and that would help to support the efforts of this website.
Thank you! - Nick LaDieu
By Cash Olsen from KD5SSJ Solder Paste, Solder Tools and Solder Kits
I just made a water filtration system similar to the commercial units, cost about $100.
There is nothing real difficult, drills and hole saw. I have seen the details of a similar system, elsewhere. The major difference in my unit is that I used a Gamma lid in the top bucket for easy access to the filter elements and clean out of any silt and debris. The top bucket to bottom lid is carefully sealed with silicon caulk to make sure that no unfiltered water can dribble down the outside of the top bucket when being filled. The bottom bucket has a replacement spigot purchased for other water containers.
I purchased 4 sterasyl ceramic filter and installed two in this filter and will save two for future replacement. The filters are the same as used in the commercial units. Cost was $35 dollars each. So my total cost comes in right about $100. All the specifications of my bucket would also be the same as a commercial unit because the critical components are the same.
This was what my 5 gallon filter looks like.
http://www.saveourskills.com/waterfilter/100_0101.JPG
This is the first bucket with the Gamma lid mounting ring attached. This should be done first because it must be driven on with a rubber mallet or hammer with wood to protect the ring from marring. This requires about 6 -7 sharp raps of the mallet around the ring with the lid removed.
http://www.saveourskills.com/waterfilter/100_0104.JPG
This is the bucket with the Gamma lid in place. This should be removed for further assembly.
The next step is to mount a normal lid to the bottom of the bucket. This is rather critical. First apply a bead of silicon bathtub caulking around the inside recess of the lid so that when the bucket is set into it it will seal the bucket to the lid. Then apply another bead of silicon bathtub caulking around the bottom of the bucket just above the lid. This is important because you don’t want any contaminated water which might run down the side of the top bucket to be able to get into the lower bucket, that’s why it needs a very good water tight seal. Allow the silicon caulk to dry at least overnight, the instructions say that it is shower ready in 3 hours but this only means that the surface is skimmed over.
http://www.saveourskills.com/waterfilter/100_0115.JPG
I measured 3″ from the center of the lid to the and marked two places, one on either side of the center. Use as small drill bit < 1/8″ (0.125″) and drill two pilot holes at each of the marked places. Drill as straight and perpendicular to the lid, as possible, through the lid and into the bottom of the bucket. Using the 1 1/2″ (1.50″) hole saw, picture 100_0117.JPG, enlarge the the whole in the bucket lid in both places. Using a 1/2″ (0.500″) drill bit drill two holes through the bottom of the bucket. The plastic lid and bucket are very easy to drill but be careful not to enlarge the 1/2″ hole size because this will only make it more difficult to seal the filter candle to the bucket in the next step.
http://www.saveourskills.com/waterfilter/100_0112.JPG
From the top of the bucket mount the Sterasyl filters in the bucket. The rubber seal goes on the bottom of the filter and to the bottom of the bucket. Thread the wing nut onto the threads of the filter from the other side of the lid as shown in picture 100_0106 and tighten it good by hand. I used rubber gloves while installing the filter candles so as to avoid oils and other contaminants on the ceramic surface. There is a significant gap between the bottom of the top bucket and the lid, this is why it’s necessary to get a good seal and also the enlarged hole to give access to the wing nut.
http://www.saveourskills.com/waterfilter/100_0103.JPG
shows the filter candles mounted in the top bucket. Picture 100_0112.JPG is a closer view of one candle mounted in the top bucket.
http://www.saveourskills.com/waterfilter/100_0096.JPG
shows the bottom bucket with the drain cock, I have not yet mounted it at the time of this picture. Drill an appropriate hole for the grommet and mount it very near the bottom of the second (lower) bucket.
http://www.saveourskills.com/waterfilter/100_0110.JPG
Shows the finished 5 gallon filter completed stack. I removed the locking ring and I have not yet determined if I want to seat the lid on the second bucket. I have found it to be very handy to be able to unstack the system and carry each bucket by it’s bail handle.
I purchased the buckets and lids (including Gamma lid) from BayTecContainers.com and I purchased the 4 x Doulton Super Sterasyl Ceramic Filter Candle 10″ @ $35.00 10 Long Mount W9121709 total including shipping was $141.99 from www.FiltersFast.com . I have a spare set of ceramic filters for replacement. I’m sure that there are other sources for all of the components.
Note from Nick: I talked with Cash and he agreed that Super Sterasyl Ceramic filters from Directive 21 was a better deal (saving about $10)
Follow the instructions with your filters candles for the initial use and restarting after prolonged lack of use.
Remove the Gamma lid to fill the top bucket and replace it loosely while the filtration is taking place. At the rate of 1 liter per hour (gravity feed) for each filter you should expect 5 gallons (18.9 liters) to take about 9 1/2 to 10 hours, or 10 gallons per day (two 5 gallon runs in 24 hours).
If you have any questions or suggestions, please leave a comment below.
http://www.saveourskills.com/gravity...tration-system
Worm Digest - Commercial Earthworm Farming
http://www.wormdigest.org/content/view/214/2/
all of these are links
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A Simulation Model of Earthworm Invasions:
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Earthworms in the Garden
Of Enzymes, Worms and Cancer
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What a Can of Worms!
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Jonah and his Whale of Earthworms
The Kiwi Killers
http://www.wormdigest.org/content/view/214/2/
Surviving Civilization on the Homestead
http://sshomestead.com/wp-content/up...jmaxnqueen.jpg
http://sshomestead.com/
Show No. 120 DIY Top Notch Incubator
Show No. 119 Potato Breeding Stuff You Never Knew
Show No. 118 Queen Eats Raccoon, SURPRISE!
Show No. 117 Earthships
Show No. 116 Boiling Frogs
Show No. 115 Homestead Computer Geek
Show No. 114 Cheap Easy Mushroom Growing
Show No. 113 Cayenne Tastic
Show No. 112 Johnny Maxs BIG Theory
Show No. 111 Asian Soil Secrets
Show No. 110 Old Man, Young Gardener
Show No. 109 Heirloom Seeds to Love
Show No. 108 Winter Dreaming of Spring
Show No. 107 Food Production Systems DVD Review
Show No. 106 B17 Cancer Cure or Quackery
Show No. 105 Bamboo
Show No. 104 Drought Tolerant Plants
Show No. 103 Improving Soil Naturally
Show No. 102 Thanksgiving & 100 Year Old Catsup
Show No. 101 Homestead Christmas Gift Ideas
Archived Shows 1 - 100 >>>
http://sshomestead.com/
How to Make Charcoal Briquettes
By Heidi Braley, eHow Contributor
Make Charcoal Briquettes There is something wonderful about the smell of a charcoal fired grill cooking away during the summertime. The fresh air and sunshine combined with the aroma of roasting meat just makes you want to stop and taste. However, have you ever thought about trying to make your own charcoal instead of using commercially prepared ones with the potential of harmful additives? With a little planning ahead, you can have your own reserve of charcoal ready for some tasty grilling.
Difficulty:Moderately Challenging
Instructions
1 Gather some hardwood pieces. If they are long, cut them into small chunks and split them. If you really want them to look like the briquettes you will need to chunk them into really small pieces, but that is not necessary. The wood should be dry and preferably seasoned for three months or more.
2 Get a metal barrel or bucket with a lid. Remove any rubber gaskets, as they will just melt. Punch a few holes in the bottom for air intake. They will need to be about an inch and a half wide and somewhat close to the center. Place the bucket or barrel on top of some bricks or concrete blocks to get it up off the ground.
3 Wad up a bunch of newspaper or cardboard and through it into the bottom of the barrel or bucket. Toss in a good bunch of kindling and light it. Allow it to come to a full flame and add some longer sticks of hardwood. Once the fire is going well, start adding your prepared wood for charcoal. Don't pack it in too lightly or it will have a hard time charring. Let it burn hot.
4 Watch the smoke. Once the smoke has changed from billowing yellowish white to wispy blue and there is more heat than smoke, start shutting it down. It is this action of depriving the wood of oxygen that will stop the burn and cause the charring. Put the lid on and kick out the bricks holding it up off the ground. Place a weight on the top to close off any air passage and kick some dirt around the base if necessary.
5 Let it sit. Don't touch it for 24 hours, when it should be cool to the touch. Open the lid and carefully pick out your charcoal chunks and store in a dry container for your next barbecue. Be careful not to breathe in the charcoal dust at the bottom of the barrel. This charcoal will burn hot and long with very little smoke or ash, preserving the taste of your meat.
6 Cook up a batch of cornstarch and water until it is thick and pasty. Stir in your charcoal dust and finely crushed charcoal bits until you cannot add any more. It should be quite thick. Spoon it into Styrofoam egg cartons and let dry for several days. This is now ready for use as any commercially made briquettes - almost totally smokeless.
http://www.ehow.com/how_4473349_make-ch ... ettes.html
How to make charcoal briquettes from agricultural waste
http://www.bing.com/videos/watch/video/ ... FORM=LKVR3
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqI63IEg3MM&feature=player_embedded
Peterson Press Demo
Demonstration of making fuel briquettes with a newly designed Peterson Press. This is appropriate technology for developing countries to use agricultural waste
http://www.bing.com/videos/watch/video/ ... briquettes
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kkW9XiBPq4&feature=player_embedded
Fishing knots / Lures
Improved Clinch Knot http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nV2baROgoPc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nV2baROgoPc
How to Tie a Uni Knot Fishing knot http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6SvMYun ... ature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m6SvMYunni0&NR=1&feature=fvwp
Informative Fisherman - Beginner fishing knots http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qruFBAkS ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qruFBAkSvY8&feature=related
Informative Fisherman - Bass Lure Basics 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHAotcbT ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHAotcbTtd0&feature=related
Informative Fisherman - Beginner Introduction to fishing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTG1alSV ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTG1alSVcyo&feature=related
Informative Fisherman - Beginner Catfishing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YpV-dtn ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YpV-dtnWoM&feature=related
Easy catfish bait for everyone! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DO_G5RK4 ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DO_G5RK4qGw&feature=related
How to Cook Fish : Make Batter for Fried Fish http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bd5Dnf1gJAQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bd5Dnf1gJAQ
how to make coconut fish - Cooking for dads http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MwQaqp2 ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MwQaqp21uI&feature=related
NO BULL SHIT SURVIVAL
Your Survival Guide To The 21st Century
http://www.nobullshitsurvival.com/
bttt
Suburban Survival, by The Suburban 10
By James Wesley, Rawles
April 10, 2010 8:33 PM
I am a public school teacher with five kids and one income. There is little in the way of extra cash to protect the family, but I will do my best to prepare for TEOTWAWKI. If you want to plan well; plan as if it was a lesson plan and you are going to teach it to a class. My class is my family the the goal being not to get anyone panicked (Refer to # 9 below). Having a receptive audience is difficult, because of what I deem…complacent comforts. These are built into the core and routine of our everyday lives that we depend on all to often (you know what they are).
Suburban survival is a surreal world of isolation. You feel alone although you are surrounded by tens of thousands of complacent people who are very comfortable in their grid dependent homes and lifestyles. Try living in suburban New York in which neighbors think you’re getting wacky because you talk of preparing for an event that they deem impossible or extremely remote.
You ask that I provide what works. I provide to you what may work and what does not work when trying to explain to neighbors the concept that more people prepared the less people in need . Going Social and leading a group of individuals is not an option. Sorry, but human nature is 90% reactive and 10% proactive. If you are reading this wonderful blog and this story I tell, then good for you, welcome to the proactive10%. But does anyone really know what will work? You ask for what is proven. Nothing is proven when it comes to TEOTWAWKI. Just prove to yourself that you have prepared for the worst and hope for the best to the greatest of your ability without losing your mind.
What may work is what I have planned for this summer.
1. Two years ago, this house I bought has a chimney with the wood stove removed. I have since bought a wood stove on eBay and will install it this summer. Contact local tree services for what is known as a hook (someone who can give you free wood because around here it costs them money to get rid of it).
2. The back 6 feet of my garage is walled off as a walk in pantry and safe room. Steel racks from target $80 to store the basic recommended foods and three 5 gallon clear water containers. Stores such as Target.com and Harborfreight.com sell a nice three bottle storage rack and a $4.00 hand pump.
3. We like to go camping, so the escape gear is packed and ready to go in the garage. I have three day MRE food packs for each child. Books, games, toys and blankets. I like the items from www.lifesecure.com if you want it all pre-packaged.
4. The Aqua Rain Gravity Water Filter will be used for long term water consumption because I have a fifteen diameter above ground pool that maintains 5,000 gallons of water. Fun to play in and a nice supply of water when filtered. Five gallon clear containers will be wheeled to and from the pool to a basin and then filtered and stored.
5. As an alarm. We have a small barky Cairn Terrier. He has proven to be very territorial. I have encountered many dogs in my life and the small ones seem to bark at strangers the best. Not to scare them off but to let you know there is an intruder.
6. Pray. With the Lord there is confidence and the resolve that you are giving it your best shot and some things are just plain out of you hands and in His.
7. Stay fit. Run and stretch. Exercise with you family. Personally I run and work out with a 1” by 3’ wooden staff. [These are commonly called "dog chasers'] It is cane-like and there are many defensive and offensive forms that can be used.
8. I have friends who are police officers and have never fired their weapon in the line of duty. Do you really want to shoot someone? I train my family for a chaotic attack. We have code words and all have set actions when the code word is mentioned. No matter how crazy things get remember that everything is negotiable. Have a planned system for dealing with a threat other then sending bullets all over the neighborhood. If you can offer an item or two to the desperate individual (who may truly need help) then do so. If they really look like trouble or if they are armed then at least have pepper spray ($11.99 per can here in New York). If you are going to shoot someone, then expect to be shot at as well. You can always think from the other end of the barrel as well, by checking out this web site.
9. Communication - The FEMA and Ready.gov have suggestions on how to communicate to you kids so they know that what you are preparing for is legitimate. The other type of communication Midland Nautico NT3VP VHF 88-channel Two-way radio covers many of the important radio bands as well a my CC SWPocket AM/FM Shortwave Pocket Radio From C. Crane Company.
10. My preparedness approach, in a nutshell:
Heat- Wood
Cook- Wood Stove
Light – Oil Lamps
Food – Stocked bulk items
Water - Aquarain Water filter 2000gallons per filter
Books - Survival (I own three right now), and fiction
Kids - Lots of Books Games, Toys (Legos) and art supplies
Long Term:
Food – fishing and trapping (raccoon/squirrel, locally)
Barter – Lots of practical things and 1 ounce US Silver Eagles (Currently @ $19 each)
Money - $5 Bills (x 50) as a cash reserve
Protection - The Lord gave us our eyes, ears and intuition.
http://www.survivalblog.com/2010/04/...the_subur.html
TheSurvivalBlog.Net
How To Put Your Food Storage into Hyper Drive
by M.D. Creekmore
Thursday, April 21, 2011
We all know or should know by now that hyper-inflation is coming rapidly and we need to put our food storage preparations into hyper drive.We have discussed using coupons for acquiring food storage but I want to show you how to hyper drive it and get you that much more ahead in your goals. I call it hyper drive couponing. Yes I made it up and am getting frugal by the day especially when I see the prices nowadays at the store.
Hyper drive couponing is the art of acquiring things for free or as close to free as possible using coupons. Coupons are free money and most of us never use them but we could all use free money. This type of coupon clipping is a growing trend across the United States although I had no idea others were doing it until recently by seeing a program on television but they call it extreme couponing. I am not as weird as most people think as there are many others like me in the good ole USA (tongue in cheek) doing this.
Hyper drive couponing is addictive especially once you go to the store and get $1000.00 worth of food and necessities for around $10.00 ! Yes you read that right ten dollars and yes its true it can be done. You will need more storage space so plan accordingly. Let me show you my plan on hyper drive couponing from which you may use or use to adopt your own plan for your family and individual needs. Start with a budget whether it’s a weekly, bi-weekly or monthly one and stick to it. $10.00, $20.00, $30.00 etc.
Here goes:
(1) Never buy anything that isn’t on sale and preferably only if you have a coupon.Your basics should be purchased first and then use your hyper drive couponing to add to and expand your food storage and necessities to a years worth or more quickly and as cheap as possible.
(2) Acquire your coupons from many sources, manufactures online like P & G, Sunday newspapers, I get newspapers for free each week from a friend that has a newspaper route and he gives me the old ones that didn’t sell, try online coupon sites to print out coupons, get them in stores, from family and friends. Just ask. You can find all you’ll need or want. It is work though so be prepared. As my grandmother use to tell me nothing in life is free but boy would she faint if she saw this plan and could go with me to the store just once. It is work but the payoff is great and sometimes FREE !
(3) Get yourself a binder for your shopping list and flexible file folder to hold all of your coupons and arrange them by category. You may choose to make this simple like adding categories like meat, milk, eggs, butter, cookies, cereals, soups, laundry detergent, etc. This makes finding the coupons easier. Get a medium size box, a shoe box will do I’ll tell you what to do with it later on.
(4) Check newspapers and online for weekly sales at your neighborhood stores or stores close to your location as possible. No sense in burning more gas than necessary. I usually shop on days that the store(s) I shop will double or triple coupons. Call your local store to inquire about their coupon policies, how many they will take? Some stores do have a limit of like 200 coupons per transaction. Do they double or triple them? Up to what amount will they double or triple? Most will double all coupons up to $.50, which would give you a dollar off. You’ll need to know this information to make the most informed decisions on future purchases and to prepare for your shopping trip.
One of my favorite stores to shop has a store coupon card which allows me to get discounts or sale prices plus then I use coupons on top of that savings. Using both the store savings and my coupons can actually get many things free and I rack up. The way you shop will dramatically change and the savings are unbelievable until you try it. You buy in bulk and use bulk coupons to see the most dramatic savings and this allows you to acquire a years worth of items quickly and at a fraction of the cost. I only buy items I have coupons for and preferably that is also on sale. More bang for my buck. I may buy lets says twenty bottles of shampoo using my coupons and they’ll also be on sale. Shopping like this allows you to accumulate a year’s worth or more of an item easily and lets you reach your goal faster.
(5) Planning a weekly shopping trip and making a list. Look over your weekly sales papers and online at your favorite stores. Make a written list or print out a list of things on sale that you would like to get on your next shopping trip, then acquire coupons for the item as described above. I’ll show you below my list which you can copy and use as a blueprint. You could get real savvy and clip coupons in your spare time and have them neatly organized in your binder or folder. After acquiring the coupons for the articles in which you want to purchase put the coupons in your shoe box, remember the box ? Put an X by that article on your list to let you know you have your coupons and they are in the box ready to go. If I don’t have a coupon for the item I would like to get in my stockpile I’ll check online coupon sites for them and print them out or wait until another trip for those items. Make this a family affair with spouses and children, they love to cut out coupons, blunt scissors of course. This is now a routine Saturday late afternoon get together. This also allows other family members to choose items they would like to get or try as well. This is what got my husband on board with my preps, when he saw the amount of food and the price I got it for he just could not believe it. It was like a twilight moment !
(6) List Example: In this example the store will triple any coupon which has a face value of up to $0.75 on Tuesday. So schedule Tuesday for your shopping trip. When listing your items be as detailed as possible about the product name and the ounces as you don’t want to get the wrong item and then your coupon not be any good at checkout time. You will need a coupon for each item on your list, if you want to buy two mustards then you will need two mustard coupons for the greatest savings.
Item Amount Sale Price Coupons Amount (x) (single,double or triple) = Your Cost
1) ANY Brand A (1) $1.99 1 coupon @ $0.75 x (3) triple = (-2.25) = (- $ 0.26 ) FREE Toothpaste 14 OZ.
2) Brand A Orange Juice (1) $ 2.49 1 coupon @ $0.50 x (3) triple = ( -$1.50 ) = $ 0.99 26 OZ.
3) Brand B (2) $ 0.99 2 coupons @ $ 0.50 x (3) triple = (- $ 3.00) = $ FREE Mustard (tip: mustard lasts indefinitely) you are buying two mustards & using two .50 coupons 8 OZ. which are tripled for a total savings of $ 3.00 on $1.98 worth of mustard.
Total Cost before coupons = $ 6.46 Coupon Savings : $ 6.75 Taxes 0 = $ 0.00 Your Total Cost = ( $ – 0.29) to the good FREE ! Now lets see how to hyper drive your savings.
(7) Hyper drive couponing and buying in bulk is the key to bringing in big savings and stocking that pantry quickly. Hypothetically I decide to buy 25 packs of toilet paper and
use 25 $ 3.00 coupons. It looks like this: its on sale for $2.99 each and I have $3.00 off coupons $2.99 x 25 = $ 74.75 – coupons $3.00 x 25 = $75.00 = COST $ – 0.25 !!! FREE Now wait a minute I don’t want the store to have that free $0.25 cents, no they want give you the overages so hmmm what can I get for that, a pack of gum for $0.59 then I’ll owe $0.25 for $74.75 worth of toilet paper and a pack of gum ! No I am not kidding you, people are doing this type of thing everyday and I can say I am doing it too now.
Try this simple example then go hyper drive and make a larger list. It is possible to add fresh meat and produce to your trip for free using your overages. If you know ahead of time how much you’ll have over you can use that amount for your meat purchase, taxes, etc.
This method of hyper drive couponing isn’t for the weak of heart, it takes planning and time. You’ll need to crunch the numbers to make sure you’ll save the most. Always take a list, calculator and coupons with you to shop. Check off the items as you shop. Bringing a friend or spouse works great. You ‘ll need help pushing the buggies and crunching numbers. You are only getting what is on the list except maybe adding fresh produce or meat which you already crunched the numbers at home and doubled checked while shopping using your calculator and list and know how much you can get, right ? That’s why crunching the numbers ahead of time is so important so you come out ahead or for the least amount possible spent.
Ideally get at least (25) twenty-five newspapers each week on Sunday to get bulk coupons out of the coupons inserts. Turn your newspapers into compost for your garden or recycle the newspapers for fire starter logs by rolling them up in long round logs. These burn great. If you don’t know someone who has a paper route call the newspaper and ask for the week old Sunday papers instead of them recycling them, most will deliver them to your house for free. Free is good
If you try this method of hyper drive couponing with your emergency preparedness goods or food storage plan let us hear from you or let us all know how you like this idea in the comments below.
Why Arent You Using Coupons To Save Money When Stockpiling For Survival http://www.thesurvivalistblog.net/survi ... h-coupons/
Top 10 Smart Ways to Build Your Food Storage http://www.thesurvivalistblog.net/survi ... your-food/
Seven Must Read Food Storage Resources http://www.thesurvivalistblog.net/survi ... resources/
Survival Food Storage http://www.thesurvivalistblog.net/survi ... d-storage/
Why You Should Include Comfort Foods In Your Survival Food Storage http://www.thesurvivalistblog.net/survi ... -foods-in/
http://www.thesurvivalistblog.net/us...-food-storage/
How to Choose a Survival Knife
A Survival Knife is the most important single item of your survival gear
More Articles Related to Blades And Knives http://www.survivaltopics.com/survival/ ... nd-knives/
Survival Note: Survival Topics sells a line of Survival Knives specially chosen to help you survive. For more information visit the Knives and Blades section.
Ever wonder how to choose the perfect survival knife? This article will show you how.
In my opinion, a survival knife is your most important tool when caught in a wilderness survival situation. While it’s true that you can improvise a knife out of stone or bone when out in the wilds, there’s nothing that compares with the steel blade for its strength, versatility, and usefulness. However, not every steel knife will do in a survival situation. Knowing what to look for when choosing a survival knife is just as important as having one. After reading this article, you will know what properties make up the perfect survival knife and you will be able to find one that is tailor made for your needs and situation.
Key Things to Avoid in a Survival Knife
While there are many attributes that are less than ideal in a survival blade, here’s a list the main things you should avoid when choosing a survival knife:
What to Look for in a Survival Knife
- Narrow Tang: If you were to take off the handle of a knife, the tang would be the part that extends from the base of the blade onward. As you can see in the picture, this tang is relatively narrow. This is fine for the purposes of a kitchen knife, but when put it up to the rigors of survival/outdoor activities (chopping wood, pounding the blade for splitting small logs etc) it is susceptible to breakage.
- Folding Knives (including multi-tools): While I always keep a folder on me at all times, which more than adequately covers most of the activities I do in a survival situation, it is still less than ideal. Remember, this article isn’t about how to choose just any knife that will do, but about how to choose the “perfect” survival knife.
- Huge Knives: Hollywood is to blame for filling up our minds with pictures of survival knives being these huge monstrosities (Rambo, Crocodile Dundee etc). Although you could slay a crocodile with one mighty thrust, the larger the knife the more difficult it is to do the intricate work that a survival situation requires. And for that reason, I’d be more worried about getting fire going, making tools for hunting and trapping, and setting up camp than a crocodile attacking me — especially since I live in New England!
- Hollow-Handled ‘Survival’ Knives: While there are exceptions to this (see some of Chris Reeve’s knives) most hollow-handled survival knives that house a small survival kit in the handle are two-pieced and more for gimmick than they are useful. Their two-piece design — like the narrow tang — can easily break when splitting wood or doing heavy work.
Similar to the list of ‘dont’s’ above, here’s a list of core requirements that every survival knife should meet:
Now that the basics covered, if you want to go beyond them then you’ll want to be aware of the following:
- Full Tang: I consider this to be one of the most important attributes of a survival knife. A full-tang knife’s handle is the tang itself and is usually wrapped or covered with some material to make it more comfortable to carry and use. Since the handle and the blade is one integrated piece, the chances of it breaking are very minimal.
- Fixed Blade: Although there are numerous folding knives which do an excellent job in a survival situation, if there were to be an ideal (and again, this article is about the ideal knife http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/...icon_smile.gif ) you will want to have a fixed blade knife. That basically means that the entire knife is integrated with the handle and cannot be folded shut..
- Reasonably Sized: I realize that ‘reasonably sized’ is a very relative term. What I mean here is that it should be small enough to do most intricate camp work (trap making, notches for fire boards etc) but large enough to do heavier tasks like splitting small logs. This ideal is obviously different for different people, but in general it falls between a blade that is 4-6 inches.
Steel Type
For the rigors and requirements of survival knives, not all steel is equal. Steel quality determines the strength of the blade, its toughness (ability to take impact), how easy it is to sharpen, and how long it will hold that edge. While I could write pages and pages about the various differences of steel types, for the purposes of this article I’ll briefly cover the most important points.
Most knives are made from two broad classifications of steel: Carbon Steel and Stainless Steel. As a general rule stainless steel is more rust resistant than carbon steel but can be more brittle (less tough) and more difficult to sharpen compared to the average carbon steel. Carbon steel on the other hand can be made extremely sharp, is tougher when being used for splitting or chopping, is easier to sharpen, but if not maintained it will easily rust.
It’s important to know that most of these differences disappear as you go up in terms of price and quality of manufacture. Here is a list of steels that I recommend:
Recommended Stainless Steels
Recommended Carbon Steels
- S60V
- BG-42
- S90V
- CPM S30V
- CPM 154 (this is my favorite stainless steel)
Blade Geometry
- D2
- A2 (this is my favorite carbon steel)
- O1
- Carbon V
- CPM 154
The way a knife blade is shaped determines its overall functionality. For example, a chef’s knife is shaped in such a way that it is perfect for slicing tomatoes or dicing garlic. That same knife however has no business out in the woods. The same holds true for the double-edged spear point and tanto-style knives. These knives are built for fighting and are perfect for thrusting and stabbing but do not hold out well in a survival situation.
Instead you’ll want to choose a clip point or a drop point style blade. These blades are suited well for the tasks required in a survival situation.
A clip-point blade’s tip is formed by a slight concave curve at the top. When slightly curved these tips are perfectly acceptable and strong. Clip points with exaggerated curves are susceptible to breakage if your pounding the spine while chopping wood.
The drop point blade is the best all-around blade style. It is formed when the back or dull side of the knife slopes downward at a slight angle beginning at around the half-way point and meets the blade edge slightly above center. This blade geometry is best suited for the various tasks required out in the field.
Blade Edge
The edge or the sharp side of the blade should be from base to tip one continuous edge. In most cases you’ll want to stay away from serrated edges. While they do have their uses, they are difficult to sharpen out in the field and there is little functionality that they add out in the bush.
Spine
In general you’ll want the spine or back of the blade (opposite the blade edge) to be flat (no saw or sharpened edge). This allows it to make a good hitting platform when pounding it with a hard stick to aid in splitting wood. One exception to this rule is Tom Brown Jr.’s “Tracker” knife. Although the knife is a bit cumbersome for my tastes, it’s unique design is suited well for splitting and chopping wood.
Conclusion
Although I go into a lot of detail explaining the ‘ideals’ to look for in a wilderness survival knife, it ultimately comes down to your individual preferences. The most important thing, as I mention in many other threads, is to find what works for you. If you have some friends who have different knives, try them out and see if you tend to prefer a smaller or larger version. Take those attributes that I’ve told you to look for and put them to the test.
Resources
Here are some excellent resources for learning more about knives and their make up:
http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/...ival-knife.htm
- Steel Guide – This chart gives you a great overview of the various types of steel and their make up.
- Steel Type Description Great summary of the various steels as well as their positives and negatives.
- BladeForums.com This is a fantastic forum made up of many professional knife makers. They have great tips and a wealth of knowledge.
- Equipped to Survive Knife Review In depth review into what makes up a good survival knife.
Omega-3s Found In Canola Oil Shown To Help Prevent Colon Cancer
April 22, 2011 by Personal Liberty News Desk
http://pictures.directnews.co.uk/liv...051263_300.jpgIn a mouse model, researchers from South Dakota State University showed that incorporating canola oil into a diet may significantly cut the risk of developing colon cancer.
Compared to rodents that were put on two different control diets, the canola oil-fed mice had 58 percent fewer instances of tumors, and their tumors on average were 90 percent smaller.
Previously, the team of scientists had tested the efficacy of flaxseed oil on inhibiting tumor growth with promising results. While canola oil contains about 40 percent less omega-3 fatty acids than flaxseed oil, the former is more common and has more culinary uses, which led the researchers to test it as well.
"You could not use flax oil for frying. If people start using canola oil — replacing other oils with canola oil — it gives them the advantage of including omega-3s in their diet," said lead researcher Chandradhar Dwivedi.
While the American Cancer Society reports that the rates of colorectal cancer have been steadily declining over the past 20 years due to prevention technology, the average person still has a 5.1 percent chance of developing the disease in the course of their lifetime.
http://www.personalliberty.com/news/...2011_04_22_PLA_
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FDA: Hand Sanitizers Do Not Prevent MRSA
Tess Pennington
Ready Nutrition
April 2011
In a recent report by the FDA, a number of hand sanitizer companies are making false claims that their product(s) can prevent MRSA, or methicillin- resistant Staphylococcus aureus. Deborah Autor, Compliance Director for the FDA states that “the FDA has not approved any products that prevent infections from MRSA, E. coli, Salmonella or H1N1.” Therefore, these claims by certain companies are erroneous and unproven.
Some of these unproven claims on the products are:
FDA Warns Companies
- Kills over 99.9% of MRSA
- Helps prevent skin infections causes by MRSA and other germs
- Is effective against a broad spectrum of pathogens, including MRSA.
The FDA states that they have contacted the companies in question and have requested that they remove these falsehoods. Specifically, four companies that have been sent letters are:
Staphaseptic First Aid Antiseptic/Pain Relieving Gel, by Tec Laboratories
Safe4Hours Hand Sanitizing Lotion and Safe4Hours First Aid Antiseptic Skin Protectant, by JD Nelson and Associates
Dr. Tichenor’s Anticeptic Gel, by Dr. G.H. Tichenor Anticeptic Co.
Clean Well All-Natural Hand Sanitizer, Clean Well All-Natural Hand Sanitizing Wipes, and Clean Well All- Natural Antibacterial Foaming Hand Soap, by Oh So Clean Inc., also known as Clean Well Comany.
The FDA advises consumers
In the meantime, there are many natural remedies and recipes for making your own homemade hand sanitizers using essential oils and natural indredients.
- Don’t buy over-the-counter hand sanitizers or other products that claim to prevent infection from MRSA, E. coli, Salmonella, flu or other bacteria or viruses.
- Ask your pharmacist or other health care professional for help in distinguishing between reliable and questionable information on product labels and company websites.
- In general, wash hands often, especially before handling food, to help avoid getting sick. Wash hands with warm water and soap for 20 seconds. For children, this means the time it takes to sing the “Happy Birthday” song twice.
- If you find products on the Internet that you belive make false, or unproven claims, tell FDA by following the instructions at Reporting Unlawful Sales on Internet. Report side effects that you tink may be related to using hand sanitizers or other medical products to FDA’s MedWatch Adverse Event Reporting Program either online, by regular mail, by fax, or by phone.
Related Reading:
http://readynutrition.com/resources/...mrsa_21042011/
- Homemade Hand Sanitizer
- SHTF Survival: How to Prevent Infections
- Are You Ready Series: Pandemic Preparedness
- Baking Soda is a Booming Product of the Recession
- 30 Most Popular Herbs for Natural Medicine
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Homemade Hand Sanitizer
Previously published at No Ordinary Homestead
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Cold and flu season is in full swing, and with H1N1 running around all over the place, taking a few extra precautions to keep germs at bay is never a bad thing. I’m not saying you need to bathe yourself and your kids in hand sanitizer every few minutes. Washing your hands with soap and water is still the best way to get rid of germs. But after an outing where you come into contact with a lot of germs (like the grocery store, the gas pump, public bathrooms) it’s a good idea to kill off some of those foreign attackers when you don’t have access to a sink and soap. And when you have an 11 month old sitting in the grocery cart who insists on putting as much of the cart in her mouth as possible, you like having a little piece of mind that your daughter isn’t going to break out in hives from all the germs at any moment.
There are many, many hand sanitizing products on the market, but I’ve found that you can make your own hand sanitizer for a fraction of the cost.
Most products you buy are made with an alcohol base but as the green craze continues, more natural products made with essential oils are finding their way to the market. If you elect for an alcohol based product, make sure it has an alcohol concentration of at least 60 percent so that it kills most harmful bacteria and viruses. Check those labels on your hand sanitizer products so you know they are actually getting the job done and not just smearing the germs around.
Essential oils have been used for thousands of years to combat disease and you may already have all of the oils in your home that are necessary to make your own hand sanitizer. Using essential oils with disinfectant, antiseptic and antiviral properties will allow you to create a homemade hand sanitizer with no alcohol at all.
Essential Oils to Use
Cedarwood, lavender, lemon, lemon grass, myrrh, neroli, patchouli, peppermint, rose, sandalwood, tea tree, thyme and ylang-ylang essential oils all have antiseptic properties.
Clove, niaouli and pine oils have both disinfectant and antiseptic properties.
Tea tree oil is the most powerful of these essential oils and has antiviral, antifungal and antibacterial properties–making it the recommended essential oil to use in the following recipes. But it should not be used on infants or pregnant /nursing women. Adding more tea tree oil to any recipe will make the hand sanitizer more effective but the smell can be overwhelming. View the American Society for Microbiology’s study about TTO for further information about its effectiveness. A few drops of essential oils like basil, rosemary, rose, lavender, lemon or geranium will lighten and balance the aroma.
Always be careful with essential oils and consult an herbalist before using if you have any current health conditions. As mentioned, some oils (like tea tree, cedar wood and hyssop) are not suitable for children or pregnant and nursing women.
In the recipes below, you can mix oils to suit you tastes or just use one type of oil but their effectiveness will be reduces versus using tea tree oil. One essential oil blend option which is safe for families is a combination of lavender and pine. This will create a disinfectant, antiseptic hand sanitizer with calming effects. Add a little citrus or rosemary to enhance and round out the aroma.
Aloe vera gel is in ingredient in all of these recipes and I just wanted to mention that this means pure aloe vera gel without the coloring, flavoring and so on. It’s not the same as juice. It should say “100% aloe vera gel” somewhere on the bottle. If it doesn’t, it’s the wrong stuff.
If you have trouble finding any of these ingredients in your local stores, try online sources. I’ll be happy to give you a few sites myself.
So here’s the homemade hand sanitizer recipes with and without alcohol.
Mixing up a batch of hand sanitizer only takes a few minutes but there’s often a question of what you have available in the house. You’ll probably want to do the mixing in a glass bowl (plastic may take on the aroma of the essential oils and metal may react with the ingredients) but you can also just pour the ingredients directly into a bottle if you prefer. Either way, a funnel is going to be useful. Add the ingredients together in your mixing vessel, then shake or stir to combine. Fill the mixture into hand sanitizer and other small bottles you’ve washed out to keep those landfills empty. Some more liquid recipes may need to be shaken before use to distribute the oils.
Alcohol Free Hand Sanitizer Gel
Mostly Alcohol Free Hand Sanitizer Gel
- 1 cup pure aloe vera gel
- 1-2 teaspoons of witch hazel (add until the desired consistency is reached)
- 8 drops of essential oils (as listed above)
Alcohol-based Hand Sanitizer
- 2 cups pure aloe vera gel
- 2 tablespoons 90% SD40 alcohol (perfumer’s alcohol if you can get it)
- 2-3 teaspoons essential oils (as listed above)
Previously published at No Ordinary Homestead
- 1/4 cup pure aloe vera gel
- 1/4 cup grain alcohol or vodka
- 10 drops essential oils (as listed above)
Related Reading:
http://readynutrition.com/resources/...izer_21042011/
- FDA: “Hand Sanitizers Do Not Prevent MRSA”
- It’s All Flower Power: Use Your Favorite Plants To Repel Mosquitoes
- DIY: Recipes For Everyday Products
- SHTF Dental Care: 6 Alternatives to Toothpaste
- DIY: Making Infused Oils
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Related Reading:
Homemade Hand Sanitizer http://readynutrition.com/resources/hom ... _21042011/
SHTF Survival: How to Prevent Infections http://readynutrition.com/resources/sht ... _17062010/
Baking Soda is a Booming Product of the Recession http://readynutrition.com/resources/bak ... _24112009/
SHTF Survival: Womens Health http://readynutrition.com/resources/sht ... _13012011/
Disaster Supplies for Surviving a Flood http://readynutrition.com/resources/dis ... _22012010/
Solar Water Disinfection
March 20, 2010 | Filed under: survival,water | Posted by: Ron Fontaine
Access to clean drinkable water is a top priorty for survival wherever you are. You can live without food for several weeks if need be, but surviving without water for more than a few days under any conditions will certainly endanger you physically and mentally.
Water is heavy and bulky and difficult to carry around, so often you must obtain most of your water from local sources. But there is a problem with this. In the field you should consider all sources of water suspect. Microorganisms in water, such as giardia, can make you very sick and even cause long term complications. The last thing you need when in a survival situation is ill health. You need a water treatment system to make water safe to drink.
Even cold, clear water can be riddled with disease organisms. I remember one incident in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. I came upon a crystal clear cold mountain stream from which a cool refreshing drink would have felt very good. This seemingly cleanest of water sources had a nasty surprise, for just upstream was a rotting moose carcass over which the entire water course flowed!
How to Make Water Safe to Drink
There are a number of common ways to make water safe to drink. These include:
Portable water filters have been around for a number of years. Hikers and outdoorsmen frequently carry lightweight water filters that weigh little more than a pound or two that can process hundreds of gallons of water. Considering that water weighs about a pound per pint, carrying these water filters is a very efficient way to ensure plenty of clean potable water.
- Boiling
- Chemical Disinfection
- Filtering
Chemically treating water is another way of making water safe to drink. One disadvantage of treating water with chemicals is that often they are potentially dangerous if used improperly and may not be readily available when you need them.
An age old method of making water safe to drink is to boil it. Boiling water to make it safe to drink has its problems. For one thing it requires an energy source. In developing countries the fuel source is often wood. Gathering enough firewood to boil water day after day can take a great deal of time and effort. In some areas of the world whole forests have been cut in order to boil water to make it safe to drink. Many people must walk for miles scavenging for this fuel.
All of these methods for making drinkable water out of contaminated water require special equipment or a plentiful source of fuel energy. What if you are short of fuel to boil water, had no readily available means to chemically disinfect drinking water, or lacked a water filtration system? What if large quantities of water must be decontaminated over a long period of time easily and efficiently? What can the survivor do when he finds himself with plenty of potentially contaminated water but no traditional readily available method to destroy disease causing organisms?
What if I told you there is a simple way to treat water and make it safe to drink wherever you are? Of all the ways to make water safe to drink, the method most simple and energy efficient can be very close at hand just about anywhere in the world.
Introducing Solar Water Disinfection.
What is SODIS?
Solar Water Disinfection, also known as SODIS, is a water treatment system using two readily available materials: sunlight and plastic PET bottles.
SODIS solves the problem of making water safe from microorganisms that cause water borne diseases simply by placing contaminated water into clear plastic bottles and exposing them to the sunlight, This makes SODIS an excellent tool in the survivors kit.
EAWAG (The Swiss Federal Institute for Environmental Science and Technology) and SANDEC (EAWAG’s Department of Water and Sanitation in Developing Countries) conducted extensive laboratory and field tests to develop and test the Solar Water Disinfection Process (SODIS). These efforts again proved this simple low cost method of making water safe to drink has great potential for those without access to safe drinking water.
How to Use the Sun to Make Water Safe to Drink
The SODIS water treatment system is as follows:
1. Find a clean, transparent plastic PET bottle of up to three liters in volume.
2. Fill the plastic pet bottle about three quarters full with clear water, or water that has been filtered through sand, or whatever you have at hand.
3. Shake the bottle vigourously for twenty seconds in order to dissolve as much oxygen as possible into the water to be disinfected.
4. Fill the remainder of the plastic PET bottle and replace the cap.
5. Place the plastic bottle in direct sunlight for six to eight hours. Resting on a highly reflective surface such as metal, light colored rock, or tin foil will improve the process
6. If the weather is cloudy, the length of daylight short, or the water is murky with suspended particles, leave the bottle outdoors in the sun for two full days.
7. The water is now disinfected and drinkable with 99.9% of living organisms having been destroyed.
How SODIS works
Sunlight is treating the contaminated water through three synergistic radiation mechanisms.
* UV-A (wavelength 320-400nm) which react with oxygen dissolved in the water produces highly reactive forms of oxygen (oxygen free radicals and hydrogen peroxides) in the water. These reactive forms of oxygen kill the microorganisms.
* UV-A also interferes with the reproduction cycle of bacteria by damaging their DNA
* Infrared heating the water. If the water temperatures raises above 50 degrees celsius or 122 degrees F, the disinfection process is three times faster.
The combined effect of all three mechanisms is greater than that of each individual components.
Notes:
SODIS efficiency depends on the physical condition of the plastic bottles. Mechanical scratches and aging reduce the efficiency of SODIS. Heavily scratched or old bottles should be replaced.
Solar Water Disinfection Considerations
The SODIS water treatment method requires solar radiation and temperature to destroy microorganisms. Using the solar water disinfection method does not remove chemical contamination.
The SODIS system works best in areas between 35 degrees north latitude and 35 degrees south latitude. The water to be treated should be exposed to the full sun for six hours when the sky is bright. If cloud cover is more than fifty percent, expose the contaminated water for two full days before drinking. If the temperature of the water can reach at least 50 degrees Celsius (122 degrees Fahrenheit) the time required for the solar disinfection of water can be as little as one hour under ideal conditions.
Particles that are suspended in the contaminated water will shield microorganisms from the full impact of solar radiation, so it is important to make the water as clear as possible. Water filtering or allowing the suspended particles to settle out before using the SODIS water treatment system will aid greatly in the solar disinfection process.
Containers Used for Solar Water Disinfection
The type and shape of the container used for SODIS water treatment is important.
Plastic PET bottles, which are made of PolyEthylene Terephtalate are considered the best choice since they do not have as much UV stabilizer as compared to PVC bottles, which are made of PolyVinylChloride. Bottles that are scratched will not work as well as clear clean plastic.
Glass bottles can be used for Solar Water Disinfection but are not nearly as efficient as PET bottles. Window glass in not recommended as it does not transmit enough UV radiaton.
Another important consideration when using SODIS to disinfect water is the depth of water in the container. The thinner the container the better, especially if the water has suspended particles. It has been found that if the the depth of water inside the PET container is ten centimeters, or about four inches, and the water has a moderate amount of suspended particles, the amount of UV-A radiation from the sun that penetrates the full volume is reduced by half. This will therefore increase the amount of time needed to successfully implement the solar water disinfection process.
Using SODIS in a Survival Situation
It is a sad fact that discarded plastic bottles can be found just about everywhere in the world. Even the remotest beach or river valley often contains a variety of human cast offs, one of the most common of which are plastic bottles.
If you are going to be in an area for an extended time, collect as many plastic PET bottles as you can, fill them with the water to be treated and place them in direct sunlight as shown in the SODIS instructions above.
If you are short on clean uncontaminated water, try to go as long as possible, at least a day, before drinking the SODIS treated water. Keep the plastic water bottles exposed to the sun as long as you are using them to insure the water remains free of pathogens. If possible place the bottles on a metal or dark surface to take advantage of heat and speed up the SODIS process. Refill bottles as soon as they are emptied, being sure to remember which bottles contain water that has been treated the for the longest time and which have been most recently filled.
If you are traveling, try to rig your water filled containers outside your pack or on the roof of your vehicle in order to expose them to the sun and heat as much as possible. This will help to further treat the water and prohibit the growth of new pathogenic organisms.
SODIS
Solar Water Disinfection is a five star method of making water safe to drink. SODIS materials are readily available, is environmentally friendly, is easy to implement, and can easily be taught to others. This makes the SODIS method of water treatment an excellent tool of the survivor.
In many areas of the world the SODIS method of making water safe to drink is being used, and with great success.
http://www.survivaltopics.com/surviv...r-disinfection
Bttt
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Homemade Survival Bar Update 2+ Years Later
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By Angela, on April 15th, 2011
Can you believe it’s been two years since we made these homemade survival bars? If you weren’t around for the homemade survival bar post, go ahead and check it out, I’ll wait. We checked on them last year here. Well, I had a sweet reader ask about their condition now, over two years later, so here’s the update.
The survival bricks have been in my car kits (one in each vehicle) for the majority of their lives. They are there through the horrible heat of summer and the freezing of winter. They’ve ridden to town about a hundred times and gone camping and even on our road trip vacation last summer. Heck, they’re practically part of the family now (except I don’t leave family members in the trunk).
I pulled one out to check on it and I’ll admit that after two years of bouncing around in the trunk the foil is looking a bit rough. I’ve wrapped this one in new foil. I’m actually thinking a nice Foodsaver bag would be better for it–might preserve some of the freshness.
This is the broken one, so it’s been broken for a while. It lost a few crumbs, but otherwise is still hard as a rock. Seriously amazing how hard these are. I would not make mine in a loaf shape again! Shape them in little cookies or something easier so you don’t have to break your survival brick with a rock (or a hammer if there’s one handy) when you need to eat it.
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Still looks as good as the day it was made.
I did manage to chip off a few little pieces to see how the flavor was. Kind of strong in the powdered milk flavor. I don’t remember how they tasted fresh, but maybe the powdered milk part of it isn’t handling the long life all that well? Still edible for sure, but I’m in no hurry to eat it. We’ll just keep them around and do yearly updates on their condition. For reference, however, we did use the LDS cannery non-instant powdered milk to make them which scored very low on the powdered milk taste test, so maybe it’s just that the powdered milk we used had a strong flavor to begin with. Hard to say.
Also for reference, we live in a super dry climate. I would venture to say these would not last as long in a humid environment unless they were vacuum sealed to keep the moisture out. We’ll just keep checking on them and see how the “lasts indefinitely” claim on the recipe holds up.
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How to Make Homemade Yogurt at Home
By Angela, on April 11th, 2011
Have you ever wanted to make your own yogurt? It’s really not that hard and saves a ton of money if your family likes to eat yogurt (like mine does). Today we’ve got a step by step tutorial for making your own yogurt from scratch. As a side note, this was also my son’s science fair project since he had to do something dealing with bacteria. I was not thrilled at the thought of the mold collection from our refrigerator on display at his school, so convinced him to make yogurt instead. At least he could eat his results that way!
To make yogurt you’ll need:
1 quart of milk (any fat content is fine)
A thermometer that measures up to about 200 F (most candy or meat thermometers will work for this)
A yogurt culture starter which usually comes from existing yogurt. Here’s where my husband says, “So you can’t make yogurt unless you have yogurt?” Well, kind of. Yogurt starter can also be purchased freeze driedhttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&...1&a=B001EO69NS from specialty stores or online. If you’re using fresh yogurt as a starter, you’ll only need 2 TB per quart of milk. Follow the instructions with your freeze dried starter for how much to use.
You’ll also need some jars or containers to incubate the yogurt in (canning jars work great).
Some instruction sites say you can only use “plain” yogurt for a starter, but we used vanilla and it worked fine. Because we were doing a science fair project, we tested three different brands of yogurt. Mountain High which is pretty expensive and has a more natural yogurt texture, Kroger store brand, and Western Family store brand. We have such great variety out here in the sticks (not) that I ended up getting different sizes of containers just to get three of the same flavor.
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I tried to find one without the active cultures in it and thought I had, but apparently even the cheapo store brand had active cultures hidden in it–you just had to check the ingredient label closely. I guess they don’t want you to know they’re in there or something. Weird. To make sure your yogurt starter has live active cultures, look for one of these on the packaging:
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Or it might be hidden way down on the ingredient listing:
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That’s it for ingredients. I told you it was easy. You can add 1/4 to 1/2 cup powdered milk if you want–it is supposed to make the final product creamier. We might try that next time, but it is fine without it.
Now, let’s get started shall we?
Step 1. Heat your milk to 185 F. If you’re adding the powdered milk, you can add it before heating the milk or after. You can put your milk right in a pan to heat it if you want, but you’ll have to be extra careful you don’t scorch it. We did ours in a double boiler system using quart canning jars–one for each brand of yogurt starter we were testing. I should have had the jars off the bottom a bit (like on a canning rack or the rack that goes in the bottom of a pressure cooker), but they survived fine.
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By 185 F, the milk is getting pretty foamy on top. Also make sure you’re stirring it before taking the temperature to get an accurate reading.
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Meanwhile, set out your yogurt starters so they’re warmed up a bit (room temperature) when it’s time to use them. We put the containers back in the refrigerator after this picture, but left the little bowls on the counter to warm during the milk boiling process.
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Step 2. When the milk is 185 F (one of my instructions sheets says to actually boil the milk, so it’s probably not going to hurt if it goes over temperature a bit), take it off the heat and let it cool down to under 120 F but not lower than 90 F. 110 F is ideal. We put ours on a towel on the counter. You could use a cold water bath to speed the process up a bit, but I wasn’t in a hurry so we just let them cool on their own. Stir and check the temperature occasionally until it’s about 110 F. (Now I’ve got the meat thermometer in it instead of the candy thermometer–it doesn’t matter which you use.)
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Step 3. Mix in 2 TB of the yogurt culture to each quart of milk. It’s best to make sure it’s mixed thoroughly so put the yogurt starter in a bowl and add a little of the hot milk. Stir that until it’s smooth, then add it all back to the rest of the milk and stir again. No yogurt lumps–you want that culture distributed evenly throughout your milk.
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Step 4. Pour your yogurt-to-be into containers to incubate. If you have yogurt cups, that’s great. Canning jars work fine. Decent tupperware would also work depending on what you’re using to incubate with. We used pint canning jars and labeled them with each brand of yogurt we were using for starter.
Step 5. Incubate 3-12 hours. To incubate your yogurt you want to keep it around 110 F for the duration of the incubation. You can use warm water or hot towels in a cooler, your oven with pilot light or super low setting or by pre-heating it and then using the pilot light to keep it warm, a yogurt maker, your Wonderbox or similar insulated cooker, your food dehydrator, a warm window in a car, or whatever other method you can devise for keeping your yogurt warm. I used my dehydrator set at 115 F since that’s the temperature the dehydrator book said to use. To incubate your yogurt in your Excalibur dehydrator, remove the trays and put the yogurt right on the bottom of the dehydrator.
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Step 6. After 3-12 hours, when your yogurt has set, take it out and refrigerate it. The longer you leave it in the incubator, the tangier it gets. At the end of 3 hours (now 11:00 pm), only the store brands had set up, so I put them in the fridge. Your yogurt will keep for 1-2 weeks in the refrigerator just fine. You can use some of this yogurt to start your next batch.
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The Mountain High brand still looked like milk at the 3 hour mark. I seriously thought I had done something wrong since that was the more expensive one with “billions” of live active cultures in it. It was probably just protesting because my son put frowny faces on those labels (that was the yogurt he liked the taste of the least).
When the yogurt is set, it will have the whey liquid floating around. You can drain this off or stir it in–whichever you prefer.
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At that point, I left the Mountain High yogurt in the incubator and went to bed (it was 11:00 already). I’m not sure what time it finally set, but this morning, after 11 hours in the dehydrator it was set up fine. The kids had some of the cooled yogurt for breakfast this morning. It was really mild, having only spent 3 hours incubating. Barely tangier than milk. I’ll leave it longer next time to get more “yogurt” flavor. We added some freezer jam/syrup to it to flavor it a bit and they loved it. Pretty easy.
For the actual experiment to show at school, we’ll do a batch without adding starter at all so it won’t set up since I couldn’t find a yogurt that didn’t have active cultures in it.
So there you have it. Making yogurt and/or a bacteria science experiment in less than a day! Easy and way less expensive than buying yogurt all the time. For food storage purposes, I have some of the freeze dried cultureshttp://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=&...1&a=B001EO69NS. That way I don’t have to count on having yogurt in my refrigerator when I want to make yogurt. And if you keep using your existing yogurt to make new yogurt, a package of the freeze dried cultures will last a long time.
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http://www.canadianpreppersnetwork.com/
Here is a repost of an article on the American Preppers Network...very informative & worth a read.
Bugging Out as A Group
From: Sibi Totique
The Bug Out Bag (BOB) is a tool focused on providing an individual with the tools and equipment to Survive a shorter trip to a safe location in case of a sudden threat or disaster. The BOB can also be referred to as a Get Out Of Dodge (GOOD) bag, 72 Hour Kit, Grab Bag or I’m Never Coming Home (INCH) bag. In my view it’s far more likely that an individual would evacuate, or be bugging out together with family members and friends than doing so alone. This is the subject that this post will address: Tactics for bugging out as a larger or smaller group.
The size of groups can vary but ideally groups should have four to six members. The reason why this is an ideal number is that such a group can share the basic equipment needed: Shelter in form of for example a tent and stove for preparing food just name a few items. If a party consists of more than 6 people I would suggest that the group is split into smaller sub-groups that share tent and stoves. Carrying a fully equipped BOB is hard for a single individual; a single individual can’t carry all forms of specialized equipment. A larger group allows for more specialized tools and equipment too be brought than what a single individual can carry.
Individual Kits and the Group Kit
If an individual has to carry all the equipment need on he’s or her own the weight of the pack will be heavier compared to if a person could share the weight of items among a Group. The suggested step of individuals can also be reduced: It’s not necessary that every member carry multiple tools for starting a fire and several knives if every member has one. If an alone individual would carry a single knife or fire starter the consequences would be worse if this equipment would be lost compared to if this happened to a single individual. Multi functions shelters like the Fjellduk and Bivanorak functions both as a poncho and bivi-bag and can provide shelter for an individual if they would get separated from a Group.
During a real life emergency there is no telling what might happen, group members could be separated or unable to meet up so it is still important the individual packs can sustain the individuals. One of the most common forms of Groups is Families. If you are packing for a Family make sure that every member can carry their own bag. For children and young people how can walk by themselves prioritize that they carry their own clothing, water, sleeping bag and sleeping pads.
Individual Bug Out BagClothing
[ ] Long sleeve base layer shirt (I recommend Merino Wool)
[ ] Short sleeve base layer shirt
[ ] Change of underwear
[ ] Hat or Watch cap
[ ] Gloves
[ ] Buff or Shemag
[ ] Shell Jacket (Waterproof and wind proof)
[ ] Warm Long Sleeve Shirt
[ ] Heavy Duty Pants
[ ] Poncho, Rain Clothing, Fjellduk or Bivanorak
[ ] Hiking Boots
[ ] 2 pair of Extra socks
[ ] Watch
Backpack
Choose a backpack with a steel or aluminum frame. If you’re going to carry a heavy load over some distance you’re going to need a good backpack. If the frame is internal or external is a question of what you prefer, both have advantages and disadvantages. Backpacks with external frames are generally stronger and can be used to carry other things than your bag like a wounded person or a heavy tank of water. Pack your items in waterproof bags; use different colors so that you know what’s inside the different bags.
I also recommend that you get a waterproof bag or container for your cell phone. I suggest that you put certain equipment like your first aid kit in locations that are easily accessible if you would need them. Always put the same items in the same location in your bag so you don’t have to spend much time looking for your items, this also makes easier to see if something would be missing from your pack. Always carry at least one knife and your Pocket Survival Kit on your person in case you would lose your backpack.
Shelter
[ ] Sleeping Bag (Sleeping bag liners helps to extend the lifetime of your sleeping bag)
[ ] Sleeping Pad, Hammock or Hennessy Hammock.
Light
[ ] Flashlight or/and Headlamp (LED)
[ ] Extra Batteries (Lithium)
Fire
[ ] Matches in waterproof container
[ ] Lighter
[ ] Fire Steel
[ ] Tinder
Survival Knives
[ ] Fixed Blade Knife
[ ] Back Up Knife: Folding Knife, Multi Tool or Swiss Army Knife for example
[ ] Sharpener
Pocket Survival Kit
[ ] Matches
[ ] Fire Steel
[ ] Snare Wire
[ ] Wire Saw
[ ] Sewing Kit
[ ] Button Compass
[ ] Safety Pins
[ ] Whistle
[ ] Candle
[ ] Small LED lamp
[ ] Small Knife or Razor blade
[ ] Fishing kit
[ ] Pencil
[ ] Water Purification Tablets
[ ] Painkillers
[ ] Anti Diarrhea Tablets
[ ] Antihistamines
[ ] Antibiotics
[ ] Condom or Alok Sak
Water
[ ] One or Two Water bottles (Nalgene, Klean Kanteen, Camelback or SIGG)
[ ] Water Bladder for your backpack; Camelback, Nalgene or similar system.
[ ] Water Purification Tablets
Food
[ ] Freeze Dried Rations or Meals Ready to Eat (MRE:s). Pack minimum 6 meals for 72 hours
[ ] Powerbars, Flapjack, Beef jerkey, Trailmix or other snacks
[ ] Tea, Coffee, Sugar and Powdered milk
[ ] Salt and Pepper
[ ] Spork (Or Knife, Fork and Spoon)
[ ] Plate and Cup
[ ] Compass
[ ] Cash or Gold/Silver
[ ] Notebook
[ ] Pen
Hygiene
[ ] Roll of toilet paper (in waterproof bag)
[ ] Soap
[ ] Toothbrush, Toothpaste and Dental Floss
[ ] Razor
[ ] Hand Disinfection
[ ] Insect Repellant
[ ] Sun Block or Skin Care Lotion
[ ] 550 Paracord
[ ] Small First Aid Kit and Blister Kit
[ ] Sunglasses
[ ] Special personal needs (extra prescription glasses, medication etc)
Equipment shared by the Group
Every individual should have a personal Bug Out Bag but some of the equipment should be divided among the members most importantly:
[ ] Tent
[ ] Tent Repair Kit and Multi Tool
[ ] Stove and spare parts. Example of Stove could be a Trangia Stove, Kelly Kettle, Esbit, Multi Fuel Stoves or Jetboil.
[ ] Cooking Vessels
[ ] P-38 Can Opener
[ ] Steel wool, Mop and Washing Up Liquid
[ ] Fuel for the stove
[ ] Water Purification Filter
[ ] Map, Waterproof container for map, GPS, Extra Batteries, Compass
[ ] Large First Aid Kit with basic medication.
Examples of other items that can be divided among members of the group are:
[ ] Compact Radio with spare batteries
[ ] Axe, Machete, Parang or Folding Saw
[ ] Binoculars
[ ] Signal Flares, Emergency Strobe, Signal Mirror, Chemical Lightsticks or Spot (Satellite GPS Messenger)
At what point should one Bug Out?
The hardest questions for a Bug Out scenario is when one should be bugging out. What kind of circumstances should trigger such a response? Here Risk Assessments can help to identify potential threats but in a real crisis situation one will always have to make decisions based upon incomplete and often contradicting information. This will also have to be done under time pressure. It’s hard to manage and understand a crisis even for government agencies with enormous resources and a large staff. Knowledge and research about potential threats can help one understand how previous events have unfolded and what consequences they have had. Researching different risks in form of Man-Made and Natural Disasters that is likely to manifest in your local area can help you make better decisions based on limited information.
It’s also important that groups create routines for establishing contact if electronic communications goes down or are interrupted. Meeting points and alternative meeting points and possible routes should also be addressed. If one group decides to evacuate, where does this group leave messages to other concerning the route taken and the people how have evacuated.
The March
A briefing before the March is important so that all members know what intended route that the party intends to travel. Where should the members rally if the group members get separated? If the group is large walkie-talkies can be a useful tool for communicating between the different members of a large group especially if it’s stretched out during a March or travelling in different vehicles.
If the party travels by foot the party should stop after 15-30 min and regulate clothing so that people don’t sweat or are getting cold. If the members sweat too much dehydration may soon become a serious problem. When the group stops take time to adjust the packs so that they are comfortable to carry. Make a habit of often checking that your vital equipment like your knife rests in its sheath. When a group makes a stop also make sure that all the members are present. Never let any individual stray away alone without the group stopping, if something must be done members should always try to stay together with another individual. The pace of the party must be governed by the weakest members in the party, if members get to tired the risk of accidents and injury increases so make sure to make a short stop once per hour or after passing through rough terrain.
Checking up on the members and taking care of each other is also critical.
Everything from blisters, back problems, dehydration and other problems are much easier to deal with in an early stage. It’s also important for how the social dimension of the group is working.
The party members should regularly be checking the terrain behind them; especially those how walk in the rear of the party. This is very important because it can be very hard to find the way back since the terrain looks very different going back the other way. In high risk areas it can also important to see if anyone is following the party.
The rest of the members should also keep an eye open and be aware of the surrounding environment; it can be a good idea that different members keep attention to designated directions. By being alert the party can spot dangers, find water, shelter, eatable plants and sometimes other equipment that can be useful.
Setting Up and Breaking Camp
When a Group makes camp for the night it’s important that every member of the party helps out with the different tasks that must be done. Some of the tasks that should be done are
• Raising the tent or arranging shelter.
• Collecting fire wood and get a fire going in a secure location. Whenever there is fire wood available this should be used to save fuel for the stoves.
• Prepare an evening meal.
• Collecting and purifying water.
From the time that a party wakes up in the morning until the party has eaten breakfast, cleaned up and attended hygiene, packed tents and are ready to leave normally takes 1-2 hours.
Advantages
• A Group are likely to have more areas of expertise than a single individual.
• In case that an individual get injured the others can give care or in a worst case scenario carry this individual on a stretcher.
• More specialized equipment can be brought helping the group to cope with more situations.
• The carrying load for each individual will be lower if a Group shares tents and stoves.
Disadvantages
• Moving with a large group often takes longer time.
• The Group can have members with a poor physical fitness, children and elderly or even injured people that slow the phase of the Group.
• Some members are likely to have low quality equipment/clothing or be lacking some equipment.
Another important aspect is getting to know the other members of your group. Engaging in activities like hiking is an excellent way both to test equipment, routes, clothing, increase fitness, getting experience and getting to know the other members of a possible group. What are the strength and weaknesses of the members? What skills do they possess and what skills do they lack? What skills can the different members help each other obtain?
Working out differences within the group before a real crisis is also important; a real crisis will be extremely hard both physically and emotionally for a group evacuating an area. Latent conflict within the group may then become a big problem. Learning how to deal with conflict within a group is something that should be dealt with before an emergency. It’s hard to know how people will react under extreme pressure, but hiking, camping and hunting trips before a real emergency will provide some opportunities to deal with these issues before.
Bug Out Vehicles (BOV)
Vehicles can make it possible to travel over distances that would take weeks to travel in a matter of hours if the conditions are excellent. A vehicle intended to be used when bugging out is often referred to as a Bug Out Vehicle or BOV. Vehicles also allow heavier equipment to be brought along.
However, during an large scale evacuation from a city or urban area roads can turn into to traffic jams that can stretch for miles where the traffic bacilli comes to stand still. This problem may be reduced in some cases by taking roads that normally aren’t trafficked but is still not a guarantee. In addition to cars and trucks other alternatives can be used depending on terrain like boats, mountain bikes, snowmobiles, all-terrain vehicles or even air planes depending on your situation and budget.
Stashing
One tactic that is often discusses is the option to stash heavy equipment along possible Bug Out routes or at alternative locations like the homes of family members or friends. Some equipment can be outstanding for wilderness life and survival, however these items are often too heavy or bulky too be carried over long distances witch make caching them a possible alternative solution. There are of course risks involved in stashing equipment, it can be stolen or destroyed by weather just to name a few. If you have to evacuate by another route than the intended one you will be unable to take advantage of the equipment. If you are planning on using this tactic you must consider the pros and cons of different locations and methods.
Example of items that can be considered
[ ] Dutch Ovens
[ ] Murrikka
[ ] Larger Tents with Woodstoves
[ ] Large Tarps
[ ] Heavy Duty Wool Blankets
[ ] Large Water Containers
[ ] Tools like Axes, Shovels, Hammers, Rope, Pick axe etc
[ ] Fire wood and fuel for vehicles and stoves
Equipment vs Skill and Experience
Equipment can help individuals cope with different kinds of crisis and survival situations by providing tools that makes it easier to find solutions for different kinds of problems. Clothing and shelter provides protection from the elements; compass, map and GPS can makes navigation in un-known territories much easier; a headlamp, chemical lightstick or flashlight can provide light during nights, knives and tools like axes makes it possible to handle a number of different tasks that almost impossible to do my hand; fire steel, matches and lighter makes it much easier to start a fire and so on. However, no matter how much gear you carry your physical and mental endurance, skills, knowing your local area, the will to survive, knowledge and most of all the persons next you will most likely be the crucial factors that determine if you survive or not.
So is this the Ultimate Guide?
In this post you have gotten some suggestions for you can put together a setup for a Group during an evacuation or for a regular hike or camping trip. This Guide is intended to provide some basic ideas and Suggestion for possible setups. However – This is not a Guide that is perfect for every climate and setting.
Every situation, climate and setting is unique and requires specific skills and equipment to be dealt with. There is no One Size fits all when it comes to Bug Out Bags. There is a huge difference if you are putting together a kit for a desert climate, jungle, winter, arctic, wilderness or urban setting. In most regions there are people how spend time outside as wilderness guides, military, hunter, hikers and many more. Find a local expert and take advice from the people how know your local situation best – the people how live and spend time there.
Also see
Bug Out Bag and Checklist
Bug Out Bag - Example of Setups
Light Weight Bug Out Bag
Get Home Bag (GHB)
This article is a part of The Free Online Survival Guide that can be found on the site Sibi Totique.
http://www.canadianpreppersnetwork.c...-as-group.html
Sibi Totique blogspot
For Himself and Everyone" The Free Online Survival Guide and Blog
http://sibitotique.blogspot.com/
Sibi Totique blogspot
For Himself and Everyone" The Free Online Survival Guide and Blog
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
The Free Online Survival Guide
So after writing articles here on the blog and at The Survivalist Boards for over one year I have completed a number of different articles on various subjects related to survival. This is the first basic structure of The Free Online Survival Guide. I will keep working on it, adding more information and new articles. It’s my intention to provide a free resource for anyone hows interested in the field of survival, crisis preparedness and survivalism.
I would like to thank all members of The Survivalist Boards for their advice and the insights that they have brought to different subject. I have enjoyed writing the articles and hope that some people will find them useful. I’m hoping that we will eventually get a Survival Wiki on the boards so that we can start writing articles and guides together in a more structured and organized way, I really believe that such a tool could take the Boards to the next level.
The Free Online Survival Guide
Chapter One
1.) Get The Ability to Cope With a Crisis Situation
2.) Risk Assessments
3.) The Media in a Crisis or Survival Situation
4.) How You Can Reduce Your Own Vulnerability
5.) Travelling With Vehicles During a Crisis or Survival Situation.
6.) Travel Safety and Travel Safety Kits
7.) Staying Warm During a Survival or Crisis Situation
8.) Light during Emergencies and Survival situations
9.) Survival Training
10.) Responding To An Emerging Crisis
Chapter Two – Water and Food
1.) Water
2.) Food and Starvation
Chapter Three – Bugging Out
Introduction to Evacuation and Bug Out Bags
1.) Building The Right Bug Out Bag For You
2.) The Bug Out Plan
3.) Bug Out Guide and Checklist
4.) Light Weight Bug Out Bags
5.) Bugging Out as a Group
6.) Bugging Out Using Bikes
7.) Building a Bug Out Bag on a Budget
8.) Bug Out Bag - Example of a Setup
9.) Light Weight Bug Out Bag - Examples of Setups
10.) Bugging Out As A Group - Examples of Setups
11.) Urban Bug Out Bags
12.) Bug Out Bags for Women
Chapter Four
1.) Bug In - An Introduction
2.) The Bug In Plan
3.) Equipment List For Your Home - Checklist
4.) Surviving Fires and Fire Safety
Chapter Five
1.) Pocket Survival Kits
2.) Survival Knives
3.) Equipment and Techniques to start a Fire
4.) Scandinavian Survival Equipment
5.) Every Day Carry (EDC)
6.) Get Home Bag (GHB)
7.) Get Home Bags - Examples of Setups
Chapter Six
1.) Human Conflict, Wars and Survival
2.) Peace Building and State building missions
3.) Private Military Companies, Private Security Companies and Mercenaries
Chapter Seven – Weapons of Mass Destruction
1.) Biological Warfare and Disease
2.) Chemical Warfare
3.) Nuclear Weapons and Radioactive Dangers
Chapter Eight
1.) The Collapse of Civilizations and Societies: Part One
2.) The Collapse of Civilizations and Societies: Part Two
Chapter Nine
1.) Peak Oil
2.) Things That You Can Do In Order To Prepare For Peak Oil
3.) The Limits To Growth
4.) Is Peak Oil Already Here?
Chapter Ten - Natural Disasters
1.) Earthquakes
2.) Volcanoes
3.) Tsunami
4.) Hurricanes
5.) Tornado
Chapter Eleven - The Psychology of Survival
1.) The Basic Mindset for Survival
Chapter Twelve - For Swedish Survivalists
1.) For Swedish Survivalists
Chapter Thirteen - Movies, Videos and Books
1.) List of Survival Related Documentaries and Videos
2.) Survival Related Blogs and WebPages
3.) Recommended Books and Your Survival Library
4.) List of Companies That Makes Survival Related Equipment
Other Articles
Survivalism for Dummies
Eleven Tips for Survival and Crisis Preparedness
It’s Not Over Till It’s Over
Keeping Your Vehicle Ready For Emergencies
US EIA - No Peak In World Oil Production in another 23 years
Peak Oil and Our Mental Models - The WikiLeaks Cable and The Worlds Largest Oil Fields
http://sibitotique.blogspot.com/2010...val-guide.html
SURVIVING IN ARGENTINA
Life in Argentina After the 2001 Crisis
http://ferfal.blogspot.com/
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ATEP Emergency Preparedness Blog
http://www.all-things-emergency-prepare ... -blog.html
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ATEP Emergency Preparedness Blog
Self Defense Tools For Emergency Preparedness
http://www.all-things-emergency-prep...efense-mix.jpgSelf defense tools are intended for individuals that are pro-actively preparing to defend themselves from brief aggressive encounters, or situations of violent activity.
Potentially dangerous situations can arise at any time, but the fact is, the threat of violent activity tends to escalate during disaster situations. People tend to panic and tensions are high during many emergency or disaster events.
Why Consider Self Defense Tools and Non Lethal Weapons?
Because you DO have a right to defend yourself and protect your family, your property, and your physical well being.
Educate yourself below on the choices of defense tools, and non lethal weapons that are available.
On This Page:
What Are Self Defense Tools?
Self Defense Tools - Non Lethal WeaponsHome Safety ProductsWireless Security SystemAwareness, Avoidance, and Flight
Voice Alert Alarm
Hidden Cameras or Nanny Cams
Phone Dialing Alarms
Child Monitoring Alarms
De-escalation
Self defense tools, and non-lethal weapons are intended to counter an attack, render the assailant ineffective, or at least dissuade the attacker from continuing the assault.
Everyday objects, such as baseball bats or a pair of car keys, can be used as improvised weapons for self-defense, however they are not likely to be as readily accessible or effective as tools that are built and intended for that purpose.http://www.all-things-emergency-prep...pper-spray.jpg
When considering a self defense tool, educate yourself on what the tool is best used for. It would be wise to take time to practice using the tool (obviously on an object, not a person), to get a "feel" for what the tool can do, and to become more comfortable using it.
When using self defense tools or weapons, unless a person is well trained under stress, or familiar with the use of their weapon, they are frequently at a disadvantage using them in a high stress situation.
NOTE: There may be legal concepts behind using self-defense items, if the tool being used is considered a "weapon". Be sure you make yourself aware of your local weapon and restriction laws before purchasing any weapon, lethal or non lethal.
Self Defense Tools and Non Lethal Weapons
Defense spray's and personal stun guns are considered non-lethal defense alternatives, these tools are intended to be used in a more passive way. They don't have the same lethal potential as knives or guns. Non Lethal Weapons are generally used for emergency defense measures rather than attacks.
Mace Pepper Spray
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Both terms "Mace" and "Pepper Spray" are frequently used interchangeably due to the brand name Mace™, but they are two different products with their own formulations.
Mace™ Brand typically blends 2 different components: OC pepper and Tear Gas. You get both immediate OC effectiveness plus painful tear gas concentration.Mace™ Brand carries several different types of formulations, the newest being: spray-foams, and spray-gels. Mace™ Foam is hard to get off and smears back into the face. Mace™ Gel is "slimy" and sticks to the person in a gooey mess, it also has a longer range than the original liquid spray.
Pepper Spray
Pepper spray, also known as OC spray, and capsicum spray, is a chemical compound (originating from the oil of hot peppers) that irritates the eyes to cause tears, pain, and even temporary blindness. It is used in riot control, crowd control, and personal self-defense, including defense against dogs and bears.http://www.all-things-emergency-prep...ay-trigger.jpg
Pepper spray is an inflammatory. It causes immediate closing of the eyes, difficulty breathing, runny nose, and coughing. The duration of its effects depend on the strength of the spray but the average full effect lasts around thirty to forty-five minutes, with diminished effects lasting for hours.
Pepper spray typically comes in canisters, which are often small enough to be carried or concealed in a pocket or purse. Pepper spray can also be bought concealed in items such as rings or pens. Pepper sprays usually have a range of 5-20 feet, giving a person more space between themselves and an attacker.
Pepper spray is inexpensive and non lethal, but you have to be very careful in using the product. You must know that pepper spray is only to be used for self defense. So misuse of the product will be penalized by law for irresponsible behavior. How-to-use information is important to ensure that you get maximum advantage when using it on an assailant.
Hand-held Stun Gunshttp://www.all-things-emergency-prep...es/hotshot.jpg
A stun gun is an electrical self-defense device that uses high voltage to stop an attacker. Touching a person with the prongs on the stun gun quickly immobilizes the attacker. However, because the amperage is very low, no serious or permanent injury is inflicted.
The stun gun is designed to key into the nervous system. It dumps its energy into the muscles at a high pulse frequency that makes the muscles work very rapidly, but not efficiently.
Although there is no significant effect on the perpetrator's heart and other organs, you have the time you need to get away and call for help. Stun Guns are a direct-contact-weapon not to be confused with a Taser which delivers electrical shock remotely by means of barbed contacts connected by wires.
TASER Deviceshttp://www.all-things-emergency-prep...c2titanium.jpg
A Taser non-lethal weapon, is a conducted energy weapon that utilizes compressed nitrogen to shoot two small probes up to 15 feet. These probes are connected to the weapon by high-voltage insulated wire.When the probes make contact with the target, the weapon transmits powerful electrical pulses along the wires and into the body of the target through up to two inches of clothing.
Some tasers, such as the new TASER C2® series, can stop a threat up to 15 feet away (4.5 meters), allowing you a safe distance to protect yourself and family from an attacker. If a close quarter defense is warranted, the C2 doubles as a contact stun device to repel someone as a powerful and unexpected backup capability. (Can also be used as a regular stun gun)
Taser Devices have been shown to be extremely effective in taking down even the most aggressive person. Because of their extreme effectiveness, they are considered to be the best choice non lethal self defense weapon available to the public.
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Personal Alarms - Sonic Weapons
Personal Alarms (sonic weapons) are a way to practice passive self-defense. A personal alarm is a small, hand-held device that emits strong, loud, high pitched sounds to deter attackers because the noise will draw the attention of passersby, they may also be used as sonic weapons to distract an attacker.
http://www.shareasale.com/image/4418/Protect3.jpgSelf Defense and
Home Safety
Home Safety Products
Home Safety Products cover a wide range of topics all focused on keeping you and your family safe in your home. Home Safety is perhaps the most important thing in your life. Where else do you have an absolute expectation of being safe other than in your own home?
There are several new and inexpensive ways to protect you, your family, and your home, we'll cover a few worth mentioning below:Awareness, Avoidance, and Flight
- Wireless Security Systemshttp://www.lduhtrp.net/4g108p59y31NRSVPSPWNPOUTTTRS are quite impressive. They require no wiring of any kind, and can easily be installed by anyone. No expensive monthly bills or frequent visits by an installation technician.
- Home Alert Alarm Systemshttp://www.ftjcfx.com/6h116vvzntrCGHKEHELCEDJIIIGH let you know if someone is coming up the driveway, alert you of intruders, unexpected visitors, theft, mail tampering, or even dangerous areas for your children. For perimeter defense, there are numerous motion detection alarms that will alert you whenever someone is in an area they aren't supposed to be.
- Hidden Cameras or Nanny Camshttp://www.lduhtrp.net/rk118ax0pvtEIJMGJGNEGFLKKKIJ now have cutting edge technology with a built in DVR which means you do not have to have a separate recording device. No cables or wires to run. They feature motion-activated recording that starts as soon as motion is detected.
- Phone Dialing Alarmshttp://www.lduhtrp.net/2f81qmqeki378B585C354A99978 can be set up in the house or outside the home depending on what level of protection you are seeking. Some home safety devices will even call your cell phone if they detect a presence in an area that you have under alert.
- Child Monitoring Alarmshttp://www.tqlkg.com/q0115drvjpn8CDGADAH8A9FEEECD function as locators or device alarms by triggering an alert when the child goes... or is taken, beyond the set distance of the alarm.
Being aware of potentially dangerous situations and avoiding them by thinking ahead is an alternative method to using self defense tools, as is leaving the situation where possible. This is often considered safer than attempting to defeat an attacker.
Due to its non-physical nature, awareness and flight are emphasized heavily in women's self defense classes where it is assumed that the attacker will probably be larger and stronger than the victim.
De-escalation
De-escalation is the use of voice, tone, and body language to calm a potentially violent situation before violence actually ensues. Terms such as 'verbal judo' are used in reference to de-escalation, because the verbal tactics are similar to the physical tactics in the martial art of judo.
Which ever self defense tools, non lethal weapons, or home safety methods you decide to consider, make your choice...
before it's too late to make that decision.
http://www.shareasale.com/image/secprobanner.gif
In some countries, it is legal to carry self defense tools and weapons (for example knives, firearms or pepper spray) for purposes of self-defense. In other countries this may be illegal or may require a license. Some items may be legal to carry without a license, while others, most commonly firearms, are not. Check your local laws before you make a purchase.
Easy Navigation To Our Related Pages:
Emergency Weather Radio Page
Disaster Survival Equipment Page
Emergency Preparedness Kits Page
72 Hour Emergency Kits Page Home Page - All Things Emergency Prepared
http://www.all-things-emergency-prep...nse-tools.html
Polyphenols In Green Tea Found To Protect Cells
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April 25, 2011
by Personal Liberty News Desk
While testing the effects of green tea in a model that simulated the gut and its digestion process, researchers from Newcastle University's School of Agriculture, Food and Rural Development found that the compounds contained in the beverage helped protect healthy cells and prevented tumor growth.
The team of scientists sought to discover whether health claims about green tea could be validated, since the drink's antioxidant properties had not been tested during or after digestion, when the body would absorb the polyphenols.
"There are certain chemicals we know to be beneficial and we can identify foods which are rich in them but what happens during the digestion process is crucial to whether these foods are actually doing us any good," said lead researcher Ed Okello.
The researchers found that the digested polyphenols were effective in protecting healthy cells and inhibiting growth in a tumor model.
Authors of the study noted that there are many factors to take into consideration when it comes to disease prevention. They said that diet, exercise and positive lifestyle choices may all contribute to optimal health.
http://www.personalliberty.com/news/pol ... 04_25_PLA_[P11919657]&rrid=238434262
Urban Survival Skills You Can Learn When Moneys Tight
April 25, 2011
by David Morris
Welcome to this week’s Urban Survival Newsletter, brought to you by SurviveInPlace.com and UrbanSurvivalPlayingCards.com.
Urban Survival Skills You Can Learn When Money’s Tight
This week, we’re going to talk about how to get prepared for disasters when you find yourself already in “survival” mode.Sometimes life can throw you a curveball and make preparations difficult. It can be difficult because of finances, health, family issues, or any combination of things. In fact, a lot of people who are switched on and see trouble on the horizon are already in a sort of survival mode. I hear from people on a daily basis who see trouble coming, but are on Social Security or who just got laid off and don’t have money for buying lots of supplies.
And I hear from others who aren’t in that extreme of a situation, but who are barely making it with the income and expenses they have right now, without additional survival prep expenses.
But if you’re in either of those situations, that doesn’t excuse you from making continual forward progress on your preparations.
The risks that we face to our way of life don’t care about whether or not we’re ready. I don’t think I’m going to get a call before an EMP, terrorist attack, an economic crash, or earthquake to make sure that my family is all set. And I doubt you will either. These risks don’t really concern themselves with whether or not my 3 year old is having screaming fits during the day and my 9 month old is teething all night…again.
These things just happen when they happen.
They happened to a student from Missouri who was going through the SurviveInPlace.com course awhile back. She emailed in about some rough financial times they were going through and how everything seemed to conspire against them at the same time. Long story short, they kept making forward progress on their preparations and got through their rough patch. They didn’t think they would, but they did.
In fact, last week they emailed in and asked how they could pay for another copy of the course for someone else. Basically, they want to “pay it forward” and give someone a free copy of the course. In a little bit, I’m going to tell you how you can get a FREE copy of the SurviveInPlace.com Urban Survival Course that they generously paid for.
But first, I want to go over some survival skills that you can be working on, no matter what your current situation is.
Financial situations can turn on a dime, and that’s one reason why it’s so important to focus on survival skills instead of just focusing on survival “stuff.” Some stuff is important, and it definitely helps compensate for a lack of skill and/or makes survival tasks easier. But the great thing about focusing on skills instead of stuff is that you can practice one survival skill or another no matter what your current situation is.
In fact, one way that you can and look at your situation if you’re currently in “survival” mode is that if a catastrophic event happens, your life won’t be disrupted as much as it could be. I often game EMP (electromagnetic pulse) events in my head. When I do, one of the things that I always think of is how tribal people around the world who live without electricity won’t even know that anything happened. They’ll just go on with everyday life like normal.
A lot of the survival skills that these tribal people use are free or next to free to practice. You might want to make a list and make a goal of doing one of these every day. If not every day, at least try to do one each weekend.
11 Survival Skills That Are Free or Inexpensive To Learn and Practice
Fire: Practice making a fire from tinder, kindling, and one match. Move on to using flint and steel, flint, magnesium & steel, a Blast Match, or a fire piston (diesel). Then, move on to a bow drill. This is all stuff that you can do in your back yard. I practice this with my 3 year old. He likes watching the sparks, seeing the smoke, and he REALLY likes getting smores as soon as I’ve made fire. As a note, when I’ve got ideal tinder, I’ll use a sparking device, but if I don’t have perfect tinder, I prefer using a bow drill and a nice big coal.
Think you can’t do this? I’ve even taught people how to light tinder with a spark in a hotel room bathroom with a piece of aluminum foil protecting the floor. Do this at your own risk. I’ve got to especially warn you not to make enough smoke to set off a smoke detector OR set anything on fire.
Char cloth: Char cloth is basically very thin pieces of charcoal made out of 100% cotton. It will take a spark almost immediately, burn hot, and burn quite awhile. Here’s a QUICK how-to guide to make your own.
Take a 100% cotton shirt, sheet, or any other piece of 100% cotton and cut it into 1 or 2 inch squares. Then, drop the cotton squares into a CLEAN tin can until it’s full & cover it with heavy aluminum foil. You can secure the aluminum foil with baling wire, but it’s not vital as long as the foil is on tight. Next, poke a small hole in the top of the foil and put the can into a pile of hot coals. Smoke should start coming out of the hole within a couple of minutes. This is smoke and methane and the smoke will be flammable (you can light it if you want). Within 5-10 minutes, the smoke should stop coming out of the hole. When this happens, take the tin can out of the coals and let it cool. When it’s cool, take the foil out and pull a square out. If it’s all ash, it means that air got into the can and you just need to try again. If not, then the cotton got hot without oxygen, turned black, you should be good to go! (This is how charcoal is made, and you essentially end up with small, thin pieces of charcoal) Take a piece, use a sparking device to throw a spark at it and play with your new toy.
The skills you’ll develop making char cloth are a solid foundation for making charcoal AND for making a gassifier. In one of it’s simplist forms, a gassifier is a contraption that allows you to extract methane from wood and use it to run a generator.
Solar heating: Have an old satellite dish? Coat it with mylar or aluminum foil to reflect and focus sunlight and practice cooking, boiling water, making char cloth, and starting fires with it. This will get HOT…hot enough to burn you, so be careful. Don’t have a satellite dish? Look for them in dumpsters and on the curb on big trash pickup days. This will work with old full sized satellite dishes or parabolic dishes as small as a Coke can. The bigger the dish, the hotter they’ll get.
Hunting, alarms, traps & snares: Have mice? Practice trapping or making intrusion alarms. Have sparrows, starlings, or other “pest” birds? Practice your blowgun, slingshot, or bb skills.
Water filtration: Have a bucket you can cut a hole in? Practice making a water filter out of gravel, pea gravel, sand, and activated charcoal (or non-chemically treated charcoal). Run water through it and see how it tastes.
I’ve got a picture & more info here: http://secretsofurbansurvival.com/32...val-situation/
Stockpiling: Yes…it’s a skill. And you should be good at it. Some of the immediate benefits are saving money and never running out of diapers, toilet paper, dog food, paper towels, etc. this side of a disaster. It also means fewer rushed trip to the store for emergency items. It also means fewer conversations that go something like, “Honey…did you remember to bring home the xxxx that I asked you to pick up. We’re out.” Whether we ever experience a catastrophic, life changing event or not, my family’s lives are better because we stockpile.
Don’t have emergency water stored up yet? If you drink soda, start keeping all of your empty plastic bottles, whether they’re big or small. Wash them out with soap & hot water & put water and a little chlorine in them until you’ve got a few gallons per person.
Don’t have emergency food stored up yet? At LEAST buy some beans, rice, & oatmeal. If you want to splurge, get SPAM & instant potatoes (one of my current favorite camping meals.) If you can’t afford to stock up and you aren’t already eating beans, rice, and oatmeal then consider eating beans, rice, and oatmeal for a week or so and using the money you save to stock up.
Situational Awareness: Try to continually be aware of what’s going on around you. Identify people who are potential threats and quickly game out in your head what they might do and what your reaction would be. When you’re simply an honest person walking down the street, any violent confrontation that you can spot and avoid in advance, is a violent confrontation that you’ve won.
Identify situations that are dangerous, like doors swinging into walkways, blind corners, ice hanging off of a building, skateboarders getting pulled by a dog on a leash, etc.
Practice reading body language…both good AND bad. Watch couples in love. Watch people arguing. Watch people reacting to babies and puppies.
Watch people you work with throughout the day—how does their posture, facial expressions, and the pitch of their voice change when they’re tired, excited, caffeinated, hungry, on a sugar high, stressed, etc. Study people you know so you can read people you don’t know. And remember…it’s not cut-n-dry…it’s an art based on science.
Negotiating: get in the habit of asking for discounts. Sometimes people will give a discount for no reason, but usually you need to give them a reason. It could be that you’re buying a damaged or opened item, buying in quantity, buying something expired or close to expiring, or some other reason.
At farmers’ markets, if one of something is 50 cents, ask if they’ll do 3 for a dollar. The biggest thing is to get in the habit of negotiating. It’s a basic life skill that will pay you back for the rest of your life. And, it is a VITAL skill for any survival situation where you’re going to be around other people.
(If you’re interested in learning more about Urban Survival Bartering and Negotiating, please go to: http://secretsofurbansurvival.com/27...vised-weapons/
How to get a free copy of the SurviveInPlace.com Urban Survival Course:
One fortunate reader will get a free copy of the SurviveInPlace.com Urban Survival Course this week, thanks to a generous former student from Missouri. If you are chosen, you’ll get the online version, the audio version, and the book, “Urban Survival Guide.” I want to make sure that whoever gets this will truly appreciate it, so if you want to be considered for the free copy, comment below and tell me the following 3 things:
1. How will the course help you and/or your family?
2. What is the biggest reason you need the course? EMP? Economic collapse? Infrastructure attack? Cyber attack? Natural disasters? Something else?
3. What skills or practices have you already put into practice that you’ve learned from the Urban Survival Newsletter? The course isn’t just another book to read…it’s a course to help you build proven life saving urban survival skills to help you survive urban survival situations and enrich your lives in the meantime. I want to make sure that you’ll be someone who takes action with the materials if you are chosen as the winner.
I’ll pick the winner this week, so make your comments right now. If I’m unable to pick a winner, I’ll narrow it down and have you, the Urban Survival Newsletter readers, vote on the winner next Friday, if not before. In any case, the winner will start their course next Saturday. You don’t need to include your real name with your comment. Just as long as you enter your email correctly so we can contact you if you are the winner.
Also, if you have any other urban survival skills that are free and EASY to learn and practice, please share them with the other readers by commenting below. They could have to do with pure survival, like fire, water, shelter, and food. They could have to do with medical or security issues. They could revolve around products and or services that you can make for barter purposes. There are 2 VITAL survival skills in particular that I’m looking for.
And I’ll send out a deck of Urban Survival Playing Cards to the first two people who point them out.
I’m excited to see the entries for the free course…as well as your ideas for free/inexpensive urban survival skills to practice.
Also, you’ll want to check out my post from a couple of days ago by clicking the following link:”The Colony, Episode 9: Psychology, Scouting, and Revenge.“ SEVERAL good lessons on Urban Survival Psychology.
David Morris
SurviveInPlace.com / UrbanSurvivalPlayingCards.com
P.S. If you like this “skills” based approach to urban survival, then you should really check out the SurviveInPlace.com Urban Survival Course. It’s designed to help you develop the proven skills you’ll need to survive short, medium, and long term disasters in an urban environment. To read more about it, and get started, just go to SurviveInPlace.com
http://www.secretsofurbansurvival.co...ractice-today/
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Outdoor Cooking Tip #5
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Monday, April 25, 2011
In preparation for warmer weather and all of the great outdoor cooking opportunities, we have five tips to help you stay safe and have a much better experience with outdoor cooking.
Click here for Tip #1 http://preparednesspantry.blogspot.com/ ... tip-1.html
Click here for Tip #2 http://preparednesspantry.blogspot.com/ ... tip-2.html
Click here for Tip #3 http://preparednesspantry.blogspot.com/ ... tip-3.html
Click here for Tip #4 http://preparednesspantry.blogspot.com/ ... tip-4.html
Tip #5: Be sure to leave the camp area in better condition than you found it. Before pulling up camp, thoroughly douse your fire, mix it around with a stick or shovel, and then douse it again. Refill your pit or scatter your fire bed. When you are all packed up, scan the area to make sure that nothing is left behind.
We hope these tips have helped you prepare to cook safely outdoors this summer. It's always a good idea to learn alternative cooking methods and ways to prepare food while camping so you will be even better prepared in an emergency.
Posted by Emergency EssentialsĀ® at 3:43 PM
http://preparednesspantry.blogspot.com/
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Sealing Metallized Bags & Storing Your Food Video
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
VIDEO: Sealing Metallized Bags & Storing Your Food http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HP4rNzJx ... r_embedded
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HP4rNzJxhfI&feature=player_embedded
Learn how to store your own food using
Metallized Liners, http://beprepared.com/product.asp_Q_pn_ ... sid=ppblog
Plastic Buckets, http://beprepared.com/category.asp_Q_c_E_442&sid=ppblog
Lids http://beprepared.com/product.asp_Q_pn_ ... sid=ppblog and
Oxygen Absorbers http://beprepared.com/product.asp_Q_pn_ ... sid=ppblog
in our latest video! If you've ever wondered about packing your own food storage, this video has some great tips.
http://preparednesspantry.blogspot.com/ ... -your.html
FM 3-25.26
MAP READING AND LAND NAVIGATION
http://www.uvm.edu/~goldbar/FM3_25.26.pdf
FIELD MANUAL HEADQUARTERS
No. 3-25.26 DEPARTMENT OF THE ARMY
Washington, DC , 20 July 2001
MAP READING AND LAND NAVIGATION
http://www.combatindex.com/store/field_ ... -25_26.pdf