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Doctrine and Training Publications
FMs, MTPs, STPs, TCs & TMs (except engineering & medical).
http://armypubs.army.mil/doctrine/active_fm.html
ORIENTEERING
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What is orienteering? Orienteering is a competitive form of land navigation. It is for all ages and degrees of fitness and skill. It provides the suspense and excitement of a treasure hunt. The object of orienteering is to locate control points by using a map and compass to navigate through the woods. The courses may be as long as 10 km.F-1. HISTORY
Orienteering began in Scandinavia in the nineteenth century. It was primarily a military event and was part of military training. It was not until 1919 that the modern version of orienteering was born in Sweden as a competitive sport. Ernst Killander, its creator, can be rightfully called the father of orienteering. In the early thirties, the sport received a technical boost with the invention of a new compass, more precise and faster to use. The Kjellstrom brothers, Bjorn and Alvan, and their friend, Brunnar Tillander, were responsible for this new compass. They were among the best Swedish orienteers of the thirties, with several individual championships among them. Orienteering was brought into the US in 1946 by Bjorn Kjellstrom.
F-2. DESCRIPTION
Each orienteer is given a 1:50,000 topographic map with the various control points circled. Each point has a flag marker and a distinctive punch that is used to mark the scorecard. Competitive orienteering involves running from checkpoint to checkpoint. It is more demanding than road running, not only because of the terrain, but because the orienteer must constantly concentrate, make decisions, and keep track of the distance covered. Orienteering challenges both the mind and the body; however, the competitor's ability to think under pressure and make wise decisions is more important than speed or endurance.
F-3. THE COURSE
The orienteering area should be on terrain that is heavily wooded, preferably uninhabited, and difficult enough to suit different levels of competition. The area must be accessible to competitors and its use must be coordinated with appropriate terrain and range control offices.
a. The ideal map for an orienteering course is a multi-colored, accurate, large-scale topographic map. A topographic map is a graphic representation of selected man made and natural features of a part of the earth's surface plotted to a definite scale. The distinguishing characteristic of a topographic map is the portrayal of the shape and elevation of the terrain by contour lines.
b. For orienteering within the United States, large-scale topographic (topo) maps are available from the Defense Mapping Agency Hydrographic Topographic Center. The scale suitable for orienteering is 1:50,000 (DMA).
F-4. SETTING UP THE COURSE
The challenge for the course setter is to keep the course interesting, but never beyond the individual's or group's ability. General guidance is to select locations that are easily identifiable on the map and terrain, and accessible from several routes.
a. Those who set up the initial event should study a map for likely locations of control points and verification of the locations. Better yet, they should coordinate with an experienced competitor in selecting the course.
b. There are several forms of orienteering events. Some of the most common are route, line, cross-country, and score orienteering.
(1) Route Orienteering. This form can be used during the training phase and in advanced orienteering. In this type of event, a master or advanced competitor leads the group as they walk a route. The beginners trace the actual route walked on the ground on their maps. They circle the location of the different control points found along the walked route. When they finish, the maps are analyzed and compared. During training, time is not a factor. Another variation is when a course is laid out on the ground with markers for the competitor to follow. There is no master map, as the course is traced for the competitor by flags or markers. The winner of the event is the competitor who has successfully traced the route and accurately plotted the most control points on his map.
(2) Line Orienteering. At least five control points are used during this form of orienteering training. The competitor traces on his map a preselected route from a master map. The object is to walk the route shown on the map, circling the control points on the map as they are located on the ground (Figure F-1).
http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-1.gifFigure F-1. Line orienteering.(3) Cross-Country Orienteering. This is the most common type of orienteering competitions. It is sometimes called free or point orienteering and is considered to be the most competitive and intriguing of all events (Figure F-2). In this event, all competitors must visit the same controls in the same order. With the normal one-minute starting interval, it becomes a contest of route choice and physical skill. The winner is the contestant with the fastest time around the course.
http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-2.gifFigure F-2. A cross-country orienteering map.(a) After selecting the control points for the course, determine the start and finish locations. The last control should be near the finish. In describing each control's location, an eight-digit grid coordinate and a combination of two letters identifying the point (control code) should be included in each descriptive clue list that is normally given to each competitor at least two minutes before his start time.
(b) There are usually 6 to 12 control markers on the course in varying degrees of difficulty and distances apart so that there are no easy, direct routes. Instead, each competitor is faced with many choices of direct but difficult routes, or of indirect but easier routes. Each control's location is circled, and the order in which each is to be visited is clearly marked on the master map. The course may be a closed transverse with start and finish collocated, or the start and finish may be at different locations. The length of the course and difficulty of control placement varies with the competitors' degree of expertise. Regardless of the class of event, all competitors must indicate on their event cards proof of visiting the control markers. Inked stamps, coded letters, or punches are usually used to do this procedure.
(4) Score orienteering. In this event, the area chosen for the competition is blanketed with many control points (Figure F-3). The controls near the start/finish point (usually identical in this event) have a low point value, while those more distant or more difficult to locate have a high point value. (See Figure F-6 for a sample card.) This event requires the competitor to locate as many control markers as he can within the specified time (usually 90 minutes). Points are awarded for each control visited and deducted for exceeding the specified time. The competitor with the highest point score is the winner.
NOTE: The same orienteering range may serve in both cross-country and score events. However, a separate set of competitor maps, master maps, and event cards are necessary.
http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-3.gifFigure F-3. A score orienteering map.(a) Conducting a score event at the start is basically the same as the cross-country event. The competitor is given a map and an event card. The event card lists all the controls with their different point values. When released to the master map, the competitor finds the circles and numbers indicating the location of all the controls listed on his event card. He copies all the red circles on his map. Then he chooses any route he wishes to take in amassing the highest possible point score in the time available. The course is designed to ensure that there are more control points than can possibly be visited in the allotted time. Again, each control marker visited must be indicated on the event card.
(b) It is important for the competitor to take time initially to plot the most productive route. A good competitor may spend up to 6 minutes in the master map area while plotting the ideal route.
(c) There is no reward for returning early with time still available to find more points, so the good competitor must be able to coordinate time and distance with his ability in land navigation in running the course.
F-5. OFFICIALS
The same officials can be used at the start and finish. More officials or assistants can be used; the following material lists the minimum that can be used for a competition. They include the following:
a. At The Start.
(1) Course Organizer—Briefs the orienteers in the assembly area, issues event cards and maps, and calls orienteers forward to start individually.
(2) Recorder—Records orienteer's name and start time on recorder's sheet, checks orienteer's name and start number on his event card, and issues any last-minute instructions.
(3) Timer—Controls the master clock and releases the orienteers across the start line at their start time (usually at one-minute intervals) to the master map area.
b. At The Finish.
(1) Timer—Records finish time of each orienteer on the orienteer's event card and passes card to recorder.
(2) Recorder—Records finish time of each orienteer on the orienteer's event card and passes card to recorder.
(3) Course Organizer—Verifies correctness of names, finish times, and final score; posts orienteers' positions on results board; and accounts for all orienteers at the end of event.
F-6. START/FINISH AREA
The layout of the start/finish areas for orienteering events is basically the same for all forms.
a. Assembly Area. This is where orienteers register and receive instructions, maps, event cards, and start numbers. They may also change into their orienteering clothes if facilities are available, study their maps, and fill out their event cards here. Sanitation facilities should be available in this area.
b. Start. At the start, the orienteer reports to the recorder and timer's table to be logged in by the recorder and released by the timer.
c. Master Map Area. There are three to five master maps 20 to 50 meters from the start. When the orienteer arrives at this area, he must mark his map with all the course's control points. Having done this, he must decide on the route that he is to follow. The good orienteer takes the time to orient his map and carefully plot his route before rushing off. It is a good idea to locate the master map area out of sight of the start point to preclude orienteers tracking one another.
d. Equipment. The following is a list of equipment needed by the host of an orienteering event:
e. Control Markers. These are orange-and-white markers designating each control point (Figure F-4). Ideally, they should have three vertical square faces, forming a triangle with the top and bottom edges. Each face should be 12 inches on a side and divided diagonally into red and white halves or cylinders (of similar size) with a large, white, diagonal stripe dividing the red cylinder. For economy or expediency, 1-gallon milk cartons, 5-gallon ice cream tubs, 1-gallon plastic bleach bottles, or foot-square plaques, painted in the diagonal or divided red and white colors of orienteering, may be used.
- Master maps, three to five, mounted.
- Competitor maps, one each.
- Event cards, one each.
- Recorder's sheets, two.
- Descriptive clue cards, one each.
- Time clocks, two.
- Rope, 100 to 150 feet, with pegs for finish tunnel.
- Card tables, one or two.
- Folding chairs, two or three.
- Results board.
- Control markers, one per point.
- Extra compasses.
- Whistle, for starting.
- First aid kit.
- Colored tape or ribbon for marking route to master map and from last control point to finish.
http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-4.gifFigure F-4. Control markers.(1) Each marker should have a marking or identification device for the orienteer to use to indicate his visit to the control. This marker may be the European-style punch pliers, a self-inking marker, different colored crayons at each point, different letter combinations, different number combinations, or different stamps or coupons. The marking device must be unique, simple, and readily transcribable to the orienteers' event cards.
(2) The control marker should normally be visible from at least 10 meters. It should not be hidden.
f. Recorder's Sheets. A suggested format for the recorder's sheet is depicted in Figure F-5.
http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-5.gifFigure Orienteering-5. Recorder's sheet.g. Event Card. The event card can be made before the event and should be as small as possible, as it is carried by the competitor. It must contain the following items: name, start number, start time, finish time, total time, place, and enough blocks for marking the control points. As indicated earlier, it may also contain a listing of descriptive clues (Figure F-6).
http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-6.gifFigure Orienteering-6. Cross-country orienteering event card.h. Results Board. This board displays the orienteer's position in the event at the finish (Figure F-7). There are a variety of ways of displaying the results, from blackboard to ladder-like to a clothesline-type device where each orienteer's name, point score, and times are listed.
http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-7.gifFigure Orienteering-7. Results board.i. Clue Description Card. These cards are prepared with the master maps after the course is set. They contain the descriptive clues for each control point, control code, grid coordinate references, returning time for competitors, removal times for each location, and panic azimuth (Figure F-8). The terminology on these must be identical to that listed in the definition section. These cards and the master maps must be kept confidential until the orienteers start the event.
http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-8.gifFigure Orienteering-8. Clue description card.j. Scoring. The cross-country or free event is scored by the orienteer's time alone. All control points must be visited; failure to visit one results in disqualification. In this event, the fastest time wins.
(1) A variation that can be introduced for novices is to have a not-later-than return time at the finish and add minutes to the orienteer's final time for minutes late and control points not located.
(2) The score event requires the amassing of as many points as possible within the time limit. Points are deducted for extra time spent on the course, usually one point for each 10 seconds extra.
k. Prizes. A monetary prize is not awarded. A suggested prize for beginners is an orienteering compass or some other practical outdoor-sports item.
F-7. SAFETY ON THE COURSE
A first aid kit must be available at the start and finish. One of the officials should be trained in first aid or have a medic at the event. Other safety measures include:
a. Control Points. Locate the controls where the safety of the competitor is not jeopardized by hazardous terrain or other circumstances.
b. Safety Lane. Have a location, usually linear, on the course where the competitor may go if injured, fatigued, or lost. A good course will usually have its boundary as a safety lane. Then a competitor can set a panic azimuth on the compass and follow it until he reaches the boundary.
c. Finish Time. All orienteering events must have a final return time. At this time, all competitors must report to the finish line even if they have not completed the course.
d. Search-and-Rescue Procedures. If all competitors have not returned by the end of the competition, the officials should drive along the boundaries of the course to pick up the missing orienteers.
F-8. CONTROL POINT GUIDELINES
When the control point is marked on the map as well as on the ground, the description of that point is prefaced by the definite article the; for example, the pond. When the control point is marked on the ground but is not shown on the map, then the description of the point is prefaced by the indefinite article a; for example, a trail junction. In this case, care must be taken to ensure that no similar control exists within at least 25 meters. If it does, then either the control must not be used or it must be specified by a directional note in parentheses; for example, a depression (northern). Other guidelines include:
a. Points of the compass are denoted by capital letters; for example, S, E, SE.
b. Control points within 100 meters of each other or different courses are not to be on the same features or on features of the same description or similar character.
c. For large (up to 75 meters across) features or features that are not possible to see across, the position of the control marker on the control point should be given in the instructions. For example, the east side of the pond; the north side of the building.
d. If a very large (100 to 200 meters) feature is used, the control marker should be visible from most directions from at least 25 meters.
e. If a control point is near but not on a conspicuous feature, this fact and the location of the marker should be clearly given; for example, 10 meters E of the junction. Avoid this kind of control point.
f. Use trees in control descriptions only if they are prominent and a totally different species from those surrounding. Never use bushes and fauna as control points.
g. Number control points in red on the master map.
h. For cross-country events, join all control points by a red line indicating the course's shape.
F-9. MAP SYMBOLS
The map symbols in Figure F-9 are typical topographic and cultural symbols that can be selected for orienteering control points. The map cutouts have been selected from DMA maps.
http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-9a.gifFigure Orienteering-9a. Map symbols.http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-9b.gifFigure Orienteering-9b. Map symbols (continued).http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-9c.gifFigure F-9c. Map symbols (continued).http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-9d.gifFigure F-9d. Map symbols (continued).http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-9e.gifFigure F-9e. Map symbols (continued).http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-9f.gifFigure F-9f. Map symbols (continued).http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-9g.gifFigure F-9g. Map symbols (continued).http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-9h.gifFigure F-9h. Map symbols (continued).http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-9i.gifFigure F-9i. Map symbols (continued).F-10. ORIENTEERING TECHNIQUES
The orienteer should try not to use the compass to orient the map. The terrain association technique is recommended instead. The orienteer should learn the following techniques:
a. Pacing. One of the basic skills that the orienteer should develop early is how to keep track of distance traveled while walking and running. This is done on a 100-meter pace course.
b. Thumbing. This technique is very simple, but the map has to be folded small to use it. The orienteer finds his location on the map and places his thumb directly next to it. He moves from point to point on the ground without moving his thumb from his initial location. To find the new location, the only thing that he has to do is look at the map and use his thumb as a point of reference for his last location. This technique prevents the orienteer from looking all over the map for his location.
c. Handrails. This technique enables the orienteer to move rapidly on the ground by using existing linear features (such as trails, fences, roads, and streams) that are plotted along his route. They can also be used as limits or boundaries between control points (Figure Orienteering-10).
http://www.alipac.us/images/figor-10.gifFigure Orienteering-10. Handrails.d. Attack Points. These are permanent known landmarks that are easily identified on the ground. They can be used as points of reference to find control points located in the woods. Some examples of attack points are stream junctions, bridges, and road intersections.
F-11. CIVILIAN ORIENTEERING
Civilian orienteering is conducted under the guidelines of the United States Orienteering Federation with at least 70 clubs currently affiliated. Although civilian orienteering is a form of land navigation, the terms, symbols, and techniques are different from the military.
a. An expert military map reader/land navigator is by no means ready to compete in a civilian orienteering event. However, military experience in navigating on the ground and reading maps will help individuals to become good orienteers. Several orienteering practices and complete familiarization with the map symbols and terms before participating in a real orienteering event is recommended.
(1) Map. The standard orienteering map is a very detailed, 1:15,000-scale, colored topographical map. All orienteering maps contain only north-south lines that are magnetically drawn; this eliminates any declination conversions. Because of the absence of horizontal lines, grid coordinates cannot be plotted and therefore are not needed.
(2) Symbols (Legend). Despite standard orienteering symbols, the legend in orienteering maps has a tendency to change from map to map. A simple way to overcome this problem is to get familiar with the legend every time that a different map is used.
(3) Scale. The scale of orienteering maps is 1:15,000. This requires an immediate adjustment for the military land navigator, especially while moving from point to point. It takes a while for a person that commonly uses a 1:50,000 scale to get used to the orienteering map.
(4) Contours. The normal contour interval in an orienteering map is 5 meters. This interval, combined with the scale, makes the orienteering maps so meticulously detailed that a 1-meter boulder, a 3-meter shallow ditch, or a 1-meter depression will show on the map. This may initially shock a new orienteer.
(5) Terms and Description of Clues. The names of landforms are different from those commonly known to the military. For example, a valley or a draw is known as a reentrant; an intermittent stream is known as a dry ditch. These terms, with a description of clues indicating the position and location of the control points, are used instead of grid coordinates.
b. The characteristics of the map, the absence of grid coordinates, the description of clues, and the methods used in finding the control points are what make civilian orienteering different from military land navigation.
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Nuts require proper storage for longevity
Tuesday, April 26, 2011 by: Duke Mansell
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(NaturalNews) Science has proven nuts provide numerous beneficial health qualities. High in protein, fiber and good fats, they have shown the capacity for lowering bad cholesterol, reducing inflammation and contributing to heart health. With all the good hype about nuts people are usually unaware they can spoil quickly in warmer climates. Many people assume nuts can be stored anywhere, in anything, simply because they don`t seem perishable; however, this is not the case. Nuts can go bad under certain conditions leading to a poor taste and potential health hazards. If nuts have gone bad they can be soft when chewed or the taste may change altogether. At this stage it is too late for the nuts to be saved and they must be thrown out. There is no known harm in eating stale nuts; however, they do lose their health benefits over time resulting in less beneficial health results.
Nuts have a high oil content and this leads to a rather quick break down when left at room temperature. Nuts are good at room temperature for approximately one month but then need to be refrigerated in an air tight container to maintain freshness. Storing in a fridge extends their shelf life to 6 months and if placed in a freezer, up to a year. Due to the low water content of nuts they will not freeze in a fridge and therefore there will be no loss of nutrients with any mild thawing. If you live in a cooler climate nuts will remain fresh longer, sometimes as long as three to six months at room temperature; however, it is still best to store them to prolong freshness.
Glass, plastic containers and plastic ziplock bags are good for storage. Metallic containers, light, moisture and heat will all conspire to spoil nuts more quickly. Nuts have a tendency to absorb the odors from their immediate environment, so keeping them separate from other foods is wise. Certain nuts will expire before others. Peanuts, pecans and walnuts are some of the first to go, with almonds and cashews being the most hardy. Nuts become chewy and soggy as they begin to turn and will eventually become rancid. To freshen the nuts you can bake them in the oven on 350 degrees for ten minutes.
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Daily Survival
Apartment Survival Food
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Assuming that you have your water supply squared away, it is now time to think about food. Again, the absolute minimum recommended by authorities is three days worth of food, but given what we’ve seen in Japan, where it has taken ten days or more to reach some communities, my personal recommendation is to have at least three weeks of food and water on hand. If you can store more than that, then by all means do so.
There are as many schools of thought about what you should set aside as there are types of food. One option beloved by the camo crowd is the military field ration. Known as MREs in the US and IMPs in Canada, these are pre-packed rations intended for troops in the field. They tend to be somewhat bulky until field stripped, may not be considered tasty by all, and their storage life can be considerably compromised by high temperatures. The advantage is that they may be eaten cold or hot (some come with a chemical heater) and each ration is about 1200 calories, with a complete set of breakfast, lunch and dinner giving you roughly 3600 calories. They are pretty much nutritionally complete for the short term, although they can be deficient in some elements (Canadian IMPs do not have enough folic acid or calcium to meet requirements long term, for example).
Another option is commercial freeze dried hiking/camping food. These usually come in packages of two or four portions, and generally require significant amounts of water to make them palatable. Add to the fact that in my opinion that they are fairly bulky versus the calories they contain, plus their high cost per serving, they would not be my preferred option. In their favor is a long shelf life, and that they are widely available everywhere from camping supply stores to Walmart.
If you decide on a commercial product as part of your storage, consider something like Datrex emergency rations. They are small in size, high in calories, and reasonable in storage life (5 year). Remember that you are always trying to get the most calories for the smallest size (and price). You will need to do some research to see what is most appropriate for your situation.
Then there is the bucket brigade, those storing buckets of wheat or beans and other things in food grade buckets, complete with oxygen absorbers, mylar bags and/or CO2 filling. While this option can be cost effective (bulk buying) and great for long term storage (25 years is claimed for wheat stored properly), the sheer weight and bulk of these buckets may make it a difficult option for the apartment prepper with limited storage.
An easy way to start storing for emergencies is to store what you eat now. It’s easy enough to buy three instead of two cans of tomato sauce or an extra package of noodles the next time you go shopping, and if you stick with a weekly buying program you will build up an impressive amount of food very quickly. The downside of this is that you’ll need to create a rotation system to ensure older stock gets used and replaced, but this is relatively easy to do.
I believe that if you are trying to get some serious food in reserve as an apartment occupant, your initial focus should be on the conditions in your living space. If you are in an apartment that swelters in the summer, you will not want to store foods that have their storage life adversely affected. The second thing to look at is your storage space. It might be damp, prone to insects or rodents (I’m thinking storage lockers here), or have other conditions that must be reckoned with.
All of this should help you decide on what type of food you store, whether IMPs or cans of tuna, and what you store it in. Don’t be discouraged if your space is limited as there are likely spaces you haven’t thought of using, For example, simple things like plastic containers that slide under your bed will allow you to store an impressive amount of food and not compromise your living space. Dual purpose wherever you can. A blanket chest holding a single layer of cans of tuna under your spare bedding is now a blanket chest plus!
Storing food is only one aspect of preparing to sit it out in your apartment. If you have good sunlight exposure, there is no reason not to be growing herbs by your windows. If you have a balcony, you are better off than you imagine. Using square foot gardening techniques (look it up) and containers, you can raise an impressive amount of food for the space available to you. I have seen one arrangement that used a bleacher like structure of containers that maximized both sun exposure and storage. Remember that in certain situations, a balcony full of tomato plants might make you attractive to others, so caution must be exercised.
Again, getting access to the roof of your apartment is a must. While caution must be used in loading the roof with the weight of containers, soil, and plants, there is likely a lot of unused space getting a lot of sunshine up there. You might even be able to get access now, and get practiced at container gardening.
Other usable room might be available if there are abandoned apartments in the building. This might give you additional balconies to use, or you might even have your own greenhouse of sorts if there is enough light and warmth.
The grounds around your apartment building bear looking at as well. There may be space where a garden plot might be dug. Gardening may be difficult if the area is not protected from animal or human poachers. Still, it is worth looking at if you are going to be in your apartment through the growing season. If so, you need to be prepared preserve your harvest. There is little point to going through all the trouble if what you grew rots before you can eat it. Remember that canning/preserving, like gardening, are skills you need to learn now, before they are absolutely critical.
Another thing to check on is the possibility of there being edible landscaping on the building grounds or on local streets. In my on neighbourhood, there are Nanking cherries, crabapples, and lingon-berries on public property within a block of me. Others may also be seeking the same supply, so cooperation might be necessary if there are a number of you trying to harvest the same resource.
A better strategy might be to go after wild edibles. Depending on where you live, there will be a variety of ‘weeds’ that are edible and contribute necessary nutrients to the diet. There are things like purslane with its high iron content, or the Vitamin C content of wild rosehips, as well as things like burdock and cattails that can supply some starch to the diet. Proper identification is the key to safe consumption, as nearly seventy-five percent of all plants are toxic to humans to some extent and even some edibles (like acorns) need processing for safe eating. Again, it is a skill you need to acquire now, not after your judgment is clouded by hunger.
Finally, consider doing some guerilla gardening right now. This can take a variety of forms. One is to garden a little plot in an out of the way spot. It might be the space between two buildings, a vacant lot or similar spot but it will allow you to practice technique as well as seeing where you can garden undisturbed. This should be at some remove from your apartment to avoid leading folk right to your home. Another is by planting certain crops in out of the way areas. The plants are then ignored and left to fend for them selves. My favorite for this is Jerusalem artichoke, a very hardy plant that will self propagate and has an edible root that stores very well. I’ve also done this with different varieties of squash, but with less success. The final method is to try to spread wild edibles. My choice for this is burdock, which I’ve managed to establish in several ‘secret’ locations by harvesting seed and planting it.
It might not be five acres and self-sufficiency, but I believe you can bug in to your apartment without sentencing yourself to death by starvation. It takes work, forethought and lots of practice, but you can develop a storage and gardening program that will boost your survivability.
Next, apartments as shelter.
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Thoughts on Survival and the World Today
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Americans are Preparing at Unprecedented Levels
Author: Mac Slavo- April 27th, 2011
16 Comments
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Do you have enough larder to feed your family and some friends if grocery stores ran out of food? How about several assault rifles and a few thousand rounds of ammo? Solar panels, a water filter, medical kits, bug-out bags, fire starters, tents, sleeping bags, some junk silver and reserve gasoline?
Don’t worry, you’re not alone.
It’s becoming apparent to many Americans that depending on our local, state and federal governments in the event of an emergency, catastrophic societal collapse or widespread disaster will not be sufficient to meet the needs of your family. Residents in Colorado (and likely the other 49 states) are stockpiling in droves and preparing to live off the grid if it comes to that:Four families in Yoder are building a sand bunker and stockpiling ammunition and weapons.There are any number of scenarios, both natural and man-made, that could lead to what preppers refer to as TEOTWAWKI (The End of the World as We Know It), be it an electro magnetic pulse attack, a US dollar hyperinflation, economic collapse, an earthquake along the New Madrid Fault Line, Yellow Stone’s super volcano, or the purported Mayan end of days.
A Black Forest resident has erected a geodesic dome on her 5-acre spread to grow vegetables, keeps horses for emergency transportation, in case she can’t get gasoline for her car, and plans to acquire chickens and goats as food sources.
A husband and wife who have a cabin on 100 acres of secluded land in Park County have weaned their property from the electric grid, acquired a three-year food supply and taken other measures to become self-sufficient.
While there’s little threat of the earthquake and tsumani that rocked Japan last month in landlocked Colorado, other epic crises on the home front are possible: A flood or fire. A terrorist attack. A nuclear weapons launch. World War III. Or an apocalyptic-type scenario.
An increasing number of people say they are getting ready.
“More people are getting into the survivalist mode. I’ve been in business 30 years, and I’ve never sold so many assault rifles as now. The last year was the best we’ve ever had,” said Mel Bernstein, a Class III weapons dealer and owner of Dragon Man’s shooting range east of Colorado Springs.
Israeli gas masks, helmets and sand bags also have been selling well, he said.
“People are putting stuff away in case something big happens,” he said. “I think it’s superstition, but it’s been good for business.”
Interest in the survivalist movement has been heightened, many say, by global turmoil.
The ongoing strife in the Middle East, the lingering possibility that the Obama administration will enact stricter gun laws and the sustained economic downturn, coupled with political unrest in Libya and Japan’s nuclear catastrophe, have made people uneasy.
In addition, doomsday prophesies by Nostradamus and the Mayans pinpointing 2012 are distressing for some. There’s also a group of Christians who say they’ve determined that the end of the world will begin on May 21.
“People are afraid, and they want to be able to protect their families,” Bernstein said.
Y2K — the dawning of the third millennium — brought forth a fury of survivalist instincts, as many believed the nation’s network of electric connections and computer systems would crash.
The terrorist attacks of Sept. 11, 2001, raised concern among even the complacent.
But this time in history feels more urgent, say those who identify themselves as “preppers” — people preparing to have all they need to sustain a catastrophe.
“There’s a distinct possibility that some other country could wipe out our electronics and computers, and the U.S. infrastructure is not ready — it would take six months to rebuild a transformer,” said Bob, a retired engineer who said he designed airplanes, power plants and aqueducts for the government.
He asked that his last name not be used because he shares a philosophy common among preppers: the desire for anonymity. Not everyone understands why they’re doing what they’re doing, Bob said, and there’s the possibility of others looting their stockpiles.
“Preppers will give someone a pound of rice and a bowl of soup, but we’ll defend ourselves against people who are going to take everything we have,” he said. “We’re doing this to make sure that we can live the way we’ve been living and we’re not going to be out there scrounging or stealing food from others.”
While some may be more likely to occur than others, and some are improbable outliers, the fact that the possibilities exist, and that there are a whole host of reasons why life as we have come to know it could be halted from one day to the next, makes preparedness that much more reasonable.
We’ve seen how governments respond to disasters. Recent history in the modern age suggests that there is simply no way to meet the needs of millions of people if a far-from-equilibrium situation were to arise.
Americans spend thousands of dollars per year on insurance for our homes, our cars, our health, our lives, and even our mortgages.
Is it really so crazy to insure ourselves from unforeseen black swans by stockpiling some food, water, supplies and a means to protect them?
The US government is spending billions of dollars to prepare for unlikely events like war, catastrophic collapse of society, and even asteroids – maybe you should consider a little end-of-the-world insurance as well.
References: Colorado Springs Gazette, The Columbus Republic, Steve Quayle
http://www.shtfplan.com/emergency-pr...evels_04272011
Four Ways To Reduce Pain Naturally
April 26, 2011 by Dr. Mark Wiley
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Each year there are more than 150 million Americans suffering from chronic pain. This pain is costing the country an estimated $100 billion a year, including $50 billion in lost work productivity and $3 billion in lost wages. I would like to share with you four ways that you can reduce your pain naturally. By incorporating some of these tips into your daily routine you can feel better physically, mentally and spiritually.
Exercise The BodyExercise is one of the most important things you can do for pain prevention and reduction. It encourages vigorous blood circulation, removes toxins, burns calories, stabilizes blood fats and sugars, improves strength and muscle tone, releases those feel-good hormones and keeps the mind alert.
Brisk walking is the best exercise for many chronic pain sufferers because the impact on the whole body is low. Once a new baseline is set, more vigorous exercises and activities can be enjoyed. Here’s why walking is so amazing:
Brisk walking is an aerobic activity, but since it is low-impact there is little wear-and-tear on the joints and little (if any) triggering of pain from the jarring action of the body as experienced in high-impact aerobic exercise or jogging. Although it is a simple activity, walking actually utilizes most of the muscles of the body to propel you forward and keep you on balance while increasing respiration, heart and lung function, blood and oxygen flow and the “burning off” of blood sugars and fats. It also helps in the removal of toxins and other wastes through sweat and improved elimination functions.
Related Article: How Walking Reduces Pain
Eat Pain-Relieving FoodsFood is a critical piece of the puzzle when it comes to controlling inflammation and pain. The typical American diet consists of too much fat, tons of sugar, loads of red meat and a frightening amount of processed foods. By switching to an anti-inflammatory diet consisting of healthy whole foods, you can actually decrease inflammation and ease the pain and discomfort associated with it.
Here are 8 categories of bad foods that should be avoided if you suffer pain or have inflammation: Animal milk products, hydrogenated oils, nitrates, processed sugars, night shade vegetables (potatoes, tomatoes, many species of hot and sweet peppers and eggplant are the most common), fast food, saturated fats and processed white flour foods.
A diet high in fiber and whole foods, low in preservatives and fat and infused with blood-invigorating aromatic spices can help reduce pain and inflammation. Here’s a list to get you started:Related Article: Study Shows Turmeric Reduces Inflammation
- Wild Salmon.
- Fresh whole fruits.
- Bright colored vegetables (except night shades).
- Green or white tea.
- Purified or distilled water.
- Olive oil.
- Lean poultry (skinless).
- Lean beef (fillets).
- Nuts, legumes and seeds.
- Dark green leafy vegetables.
- Organic oatmeal (regular, not instant).
- Aromatic spices (turmeric, ginger, cloves, garlic, onion, coriander, ground mustard seed, cayenne pepper).
Get Adequate SleepSleep is not only a fundamental human need, it is a necessity that no one who experiences aches or pains of any kind should ever take for granted. It is so important, in fact, that we naturally fall asleep when our body tells our brain that certain essential chemicals have been depleted and our muscles and ligaments are tired and in need of repair.
Here are some tips to get deeper sleep:Related Article: How Healthy Choices Promote Wellness
- Do not consume ANY sugar or caffeine after 6 p.m.
- Stop working at least two hours before bedtime.
- Turn off the computer and television at least one hour before bedtime.
- Make sure your sleeping quarters are as dark and silent as possible. Studies have shown that those in darker and quieter spaces tend to sleep through the night more deeply than others.
- Establish a sleep/wake schedule and stick to it.
- Make a set routine out of bedtime. Change into pajamas, brush your teeth, set out clothes for the morning, even jot down any last thoughts, but promise yourself to revisit them tomorrow, then turn off the light… breathe deeply, relax, sleep tight.
- If a racing mind is nagging, slow your breath and focus on the sensation of air as it passes through your nose. This will derail those busy thoughts to help you drift off.
Reduce Your StressThe negative and lasting side effects of stress are often manifested in the mind/body response. Since the mind controls and constructs perceptions and the emotions act and react toward threatening stimuli, the daily centering of mind and emotions is essential to prevention of psychosomatic illness.
Meditation is one way to do this. There are many benefits to the daily practice of meditation including improved concentration, enhanced focus, calmer emotions, inner fortitude, understanding of the self, objectivity, concentrated decision-making power and peace of mind.
Physiologically, you will experience a decrease in blood pressure, respiration and metabolism; the nervous systems calms; hormones and chemicals balance; and the body is allowed to return to its natural harmonious state of homeostasis. Talk about stress relief!
Here’s how to do it:Related Article: 10 Ways to Keep Stress from Killing You
- Sit or lie down in any comfortable position that allows your spine to be straight and your head aligned with it.
- Close your eyes and take a few initial deep breaths to ease into the moment and begin to relax.
- Focus your attention on your breath as it passes into and out of the tip of your nose.
- As you inhale, merely OBSERVE, without mental comment, the sensation you feel as air passes the tip of your nose.
- As you exhale, merely OBSERVE, without mental comment, the sensation you feel as air passes the tip of your nose.
- When thoughts enter your mind, do not engage them, do not pass judgment on them. Merely ACKNOWLEDGE that they are there, and return to the task of observing the sensation of the breath on the tip of the nose.
Additional ThoughtsDeveloping and maintaining a positive mental attitude will go far in helping you reach your pain-free-living goals. Think from the end and believe you are already halfway along your pain-free experience, and you will more easily accomplish the day-to-day things necessary to do just that. Have confidence in what you are doing because you know it will help.
Every time you walk a mile, refuse a milkshake, sleep for an entire eight hours and breathe your stress away, you will know that you are making positive steps in your wellness life.
http://www.drmarkwiley.com/blog/4-wa...ain-naturally/
Cherries Found To Have Heart-Protecting Properties
April 26, 2011
by Personal Liberty News Desk
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Three different studies examined the health benefits of cherries, and all came out with results which indicate that the fruits may be one of the best food choices when it comes to preventing diseases.
The University of Michigan, University of Arizona and Brunswick Laboratories all presented their findings on cherries at the Experimental Biology annual meeting in Washington, D.C.
One study found that drinking eight ounces of tart cherry juice had the ability to reduce inflammation in overweight or obese participants in just one month.
Another tested the antioxidant power of cherries in a powdered form. Researchers discovered that levels of inflammatory C reactive protein were reduced by up to 36 percent and cholesterol was decreased by 26 percent over a five-month period. These effects could help to reduce risks of atherosclerosis. Mice in this study were also able to avoid early death by 65 percent when they consumed the cherry powder.
The researchers noted that one cup of freeze-dried tart cherries has a wide array of antioxidants and phytochemicals that are likely to have caused the boost in health in study subjects.
http://www.personalliberty.com/news/che ... 800491616/
Lower Triglycerides With Exercise, Healthy Diet
April 27, 2011 by Personal Liberty News Desk
http://pictures.directnews.co.uk/liv...012060_300.jpgHigh blood levels of triglycerides have been associated with obesity, kidney disease, diabetes and high calorie consumption. So, it may come as no surprise that the healthy lifestyle choices that have been known to keep these conditions at bay can also help to lower triglycerides — otherwise known as fat found in the blood.
Researchers at the University of Maryland School of Medicine have conducted a study which suggests that lowering sugar intake, choosing mono- and polyunsaturated fats and limiting calorie and alcohol consumption in addition to getting more physical exercise may cut triglyceride levels by 20 to 50 percent.
“In contrast to cholesterol, where lifestyle measures are important but may not be the solution, high triglycerides are often quite responsive to lifestyle measures that include weight loss if overweight, changes in diet and regular physical activity,” said lead author Michael Miller, M.D.
Authors of the study recommended that individuals with triglyceride levels that are higher than 150 milligrams per deciliter get at least 150 minutes of moderate exercise per week to lower their blood fat.
http://www.personalliberty.com/news/...iet-800492465/
Compact Water Purification For The Bug Out Bag
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April 21, 2011
by Scott B. Williams
Most people immediately think of filtration systems when considering water purification methods in a survival situation.
There are many excellent filter systems on the market today that will do the job and are popular in the survival and prepping community. While I own and have used various filters myself, when packing for a long wilderness excursion or preparing a compact bug-out or everyday carry bag for emergencies, I want something smaller, lighter weight and absolutely dependable for short or long-term use.
While there are some compact drinking straw filters that fit the small and light weight criteria, they are not so convenient for everyday use and, like all filters, have a limited life before they must be replaced.
The purification system I have come to rely on in this role is Polar Pure Water Disinfectant. Unlike filter systems, Polar Pure is a chemical water treatment that uses iodine crystals trapped in a specially designed small glass bottle.
Other compact chemical treatment systems in the form of tablets work in much the same way, but are only good for one use. Because the iodine in a bottle of Polar Pure remains trapped in the bottle, a single bottle can last for years in storage or with intermittent use and can treat up to 2,000 quarts of water.
The bottle is small enough to fit in a pocket, and while it is made of glass, I’ve never broken one in over 20 years of use in every kind of wilderness environment. It typically sells for less than $15 per bottle at online retail sites.
Using Polar Pure is simple. You fill the bottle with water from any source available, shake it well and let it sit for an hour. This creates a saturated iodine solution in the bottle that is then measured using the bottle cap for addition into your drinking water container. I typically use 1-quart Nalgene bottles for my drinking water, and these make great containers for Polar Pure treatment. The amount of solution and the time you have to wait before drinking after adding it is determined by the water temperature. A thermometer is built-in to the side of the Polar Pure bottle.
Polar Pure has worked for me on countless wilderness trips of a few days to months in duration. I’ve used it to purify drinking water from clear mountain streams to muddy Deep South swamp water and even pathogen-infested jungle rivers of tropical Latin America without once getting ill from bad water.
For the cost and tiny amount of space it will take up in your gear, Polar Pure is well worth considering as a backup, even if you do prefer a filter for your primary water purification system. For more information, visit the Polar Pure site at: http://www.polarequipment.com/index.htm
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The Top 50 Survival Blogs!
20 CARD\'s blog
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=> View these other great Survival Blogs that almost made the Top 50!
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Preparing For Hard Times Is A Way Of Life I Call Provident Living
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April 18, 2011
by Peggy Layton
I have been chosen by a film company to try out for a documentary on “prepping.” If I am chosen, a film crew will come to my house and film me in all aspects of my daily life.
I don’t feel like a prepper, I just live providently. When I refer to myself, I am also referring to my husband Scott and my children and most of my friends and relatives. It seems that everyone I know lives like this to some degree. I told my husband about it and he asked me, what is prepping? It seems it is a new buzzword for preparing for disasters or hard economic times. We are so used to our way of life that it is normal to us. We don’t consider ourselves preppers.
We have our yearly routine that we do to maintain a level of preparedness at all times. Because I am in the middle of filming the preliminary clips, I have been seriously thinking about how we live and how I could share this way of life with others who are just getting started and want to be more self-sufficient. I am going to list all the things that my family is doing to be prepared.
1. We Are Getting Out Of Debt And Staying Out Of Debt
The most important thing we are doing is getting out of debt and staying out. After all the research I have done on banks and the interest they charge, I realized that my money market account and my savings were never going to increase at the same rate as the interest the bank was taking out for my loans. I realized also that I need to be borrowing from myself instead of the bank, then I can pay myself back and I earn the interest. I am money ahead that way.
So I cashed out my money market certificates and my savings and I paid the highest interest-bearing debts first: Our credit cards, vehicle loans, a loan on a ring my husband and I bought and a flat screen TV that we purchased.
I paid off my mother’s house because she is getting older and making the payment every month is very hard for her. I could have used this money for my own debt, but I had a strong feeling that my mom’s house was more important and she needed to be out from under that pressure.
I came to the conclusion that I had my savings money in the bank and I also had my loan at the same bank. The bank was taking my savings and loaning it back to me and then charging me large amounts of interest. All of a sudden it dawned on me that this was not smart. So I used my savings and paid the high interest bearing loans first, and now I am making the same payments only to myself and I keep the interest for myself. That is how I can get ahead.
The way we started getting out of debt was by listing all monthly expenses and debts on a ledger. We concentrated on the smallest and highest interest bearing debts first. When we got the first debt paid, we took the money from the first one and added it to the second one.
For example, the first one was $100 and the second one was $200. When we paid off the first one, we began paying $300 to the second one each month until that one was paid in full. Then added the $300 to the third debt until it was paid off. We were still paying the same amount each month, but we were compounding the payments to get them paid off sooner.
Most people would say, “Good, I have an extra $300 this month,” and then go spend it or get into more debt. This plan takes discipline but can be done.
I must say that if you are on a fixed income or have no income, it is very difficult to get out of debt. That is why it is called the “Rat Race.” You spin your wheels and go nowhere.
You may have to sell some of your assets to accomplish this goal. I have put some recreational land that we own up for sale. If it sells, I will finish paying off our final debts.
My husband and I made a pact with each other that we would not use our credit cards for any purchase unless it is a debit and we have the extra money saved up for that purchase. We plan ahead and never get in trouble with credit card debt.
Our home is paid for and we are not a slave to a mortgage company. It feels so good to be debt free on our home and know that we won’t be kicked out if times get tough and we get into financial trouble.
We also save up the property tax money each month so that in November when property taxes are due we have the money and it is not a burden on us.
We have a three-month supply of cash on hand (not in the bank) to pay bills just in case the banks shut down or have no funds. It is good to have small bills and coins for smaller purchases. Saving enough money for emergency bill paying takes time. We are frugal and try to save money wherever we can. We pay cash for vehicles and other purchases. If we don’t have the money, we don’t buy it.
2. We Grow A Garden Every Year
We are avid gardeners. Every spring we grow a garden.
My husband grew up on a farm and learned to milk cows at an early age. He would get up by 6 a.m., do his chores, milk the cows and then go to school.
His father was an onion farmer. They also grew corn to sell at the farmers market so the children could have money for school clothes.
We grow a lot more food than we need. However, I have tried to scale down and it hasn’t worked as well, so we give a large amount of food away to our family and friends. We like to grow plants from non-hybrid seeds so we can save them from year to year and have a never-ending supply.
3. I Bottle And Dry Excess Fruits And Vegetables
During harvest time I bottle or put up fruits and vegetables. I make things like salsa, pickles, beats, broccoli, squash, soups, peaches and pears. We enjoy eating the food we grow all year.
I also like to dehydrate the excess produce that we have in our garden. I keep a dehydrator going all the time during harvest time.
I make sun-dried tomatoes, zucchini chips, dried onions, and dried fruit slices such as peaches and pears, raisins, plums and apples. I make fruit leather with a mixture of fruits blended into a puree. I have an herb garden that we use to grow fresh herbs for cooking. I dehydrate them to make herbal seasonings.
4. We Have A Year-Round Greenhouse
We have a year-round greenhouse that we start all our seedlings in and grow food in year round. It contains an 800-gallon water tank that helps keep the greenhouse from freezing or overheating. We have fish in the tank all year. If necessary we could grow fish to eat.
We love our greenhouse.
5. We Raise Chickens And Other Animals
We live in the city limits of a small rural community. The entire town is only one mile long, and the population is 2,500. We are allowed to have farm animals on our property.
Many of my neighbors raise horses, cattle, chickens, rabbits, pigs and goats. People raise animals for meat as well. The county fair is full of them waiting to be sold to the lucky bidder.
We purchase meat from the local ranchers in the area. My husband and I have chickens. We collect the eggs every morning and eat them fresh for breakfast. My husband believes that he is healthier because of the free-range fresh eggs he eats.
6. We Store A Year’s Supply Of Food
Because of the religious beliefs of our church and community, most people in my community and in the state of Utah store enough garden seeds, food, water, clothing, bedding, fuel, wood, emergency supplies and camping gear to be prepared for an emergency of some sort.
I am the queen of food storage. I have enough to supply an army. I keep it in different locations for security reasons.
I stockpile a lot of easy-to-make meals that can be cooked by adding water and bringing to a boil. These include things such as soup mixes and premade meals. I also store bulk foods like rice, dried fruits vegetables, wheat, powdered milk, beans, honey, bread baking supplies and all the necessary ingredients to make soup and bread.
7. We Have A Root Cellar
Our root cellar is a cement room similar to a basement, only smaller. It is about 10 feet deep and has a stairway leading to the room.
We keep all our winter vegetables in that root cellar: Carrots, onions, potatoes, squash and apples all store well throughout the winter. There is a building on top of the root cellar in which we keep buckets of dehydrated food.
8. We Have A Wood-Burning Stove In Our Home
A wood-burning stove is a necessity if the power goes off. You need enough coal and wood to build a fire in the stove to heat your home and stay warm.
The top of the wood burning stove is flat so you can boil water in a pot or even cook simple foods on the top of the stove. These stoves will heat entire rooms. If your power goes off in the middle of the winter, you can shut the doors to rooms that are not being used and just heat the part of the house that is absolutely necessary.
We built an outdoor fireplace that we could use to cook in if we had to. It is on our patio and it is nice to just relax by the fire on chilly nights. We also have a barbeque grill that uses propane. We store extra bottles of propane so we could use it if needed.
9. We Have Camping And Evacuation Equipment
We have a special shed on our property in which we keep all our camping, hiking, snowshoeing equipment. We have plastic totes full of Mountain House foods and eFoods pre-made meals. We keep tents, sleeping bags, cots, warm clothing (gloves, wool socks, pants and hats), extra bedding, wool blankets, kerosene lamps, Dutch ovens and a Sun oven.
We have guns and ammo also. We live near the mountains and if we needed to hunt for wild game, we could. We have alternative heating and lighting sources as well. We keep our 72-hour packs in this shed along with our portable water filters. We keep cans of extra gasoline in case we need to take off somewhere. It is a good idea to keep the vehicles full of gas at all times.
10. We Have An Outhouse On Our Property
Our house sits on about a half-acre plot of land. My husband fixed up an old outhouse that was on the property when we moved here 25 years ago. The outhouse has a door on it for privacy. It has a hole dug in the ground about four or five feet deep and has a wooden box built on top of the hole.
The wooden box has a hole in the top with a toilet seat secured over the hole. We use an enzyme and bacteria product called Bio Clean to sprinkle into the hole and eliminate human waste and smells. You can purchase Bio Clean from my website www.peggylayton.com.
11. We Have A 250-Gallon Water Tank In Our Shed
Water is the most important item we have. Without water we won’t live long. We keep a 250-gallon tank in the shed where our camping gear is stashed. We have smaller 5-gallon containers to fill from the larger one.
This is a little bit about how we live. I hope it gives you ideas so you and your family can be more self sufficient.
http://plimages.blob.core.windows.ne...oodStorage.jpgIf you are interested in a great source for pre-made meals that can be stored for 15 years and taste great, check out the eFoods Global meals available from my website. I have been testing out these emergency food storage meals which are packaged in Mylar® pouches. These meals serve four people and are ready to just add water and cook. I find them delicious, convenient, and easy. For more information, click here.
To purchase any of my seven books or any of the other preparedness items I sell, go to my website at www.peggylayton.com
–Peggy Layton
http://www.personalliberty.com/survi...vident-living/
Disaster Pudding Video
Thursday, April 28, 2011
Video: Disaster Pudding http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=pl ... 18GO1OK3sg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...;v=K18GO1OK3sg
Learn how to make this simple and quick dessert using Peanut Butter Powder, Instant Chocolate Pudding Mix, Oatmeal, and other ingredients from your Food Storage!
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http://preparednesspantry.blogspot.com/ ... video.html
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Food Storage Recipes Home Page
Welcome to our Food Storage Recipes Main Page.
Our goal with these recipes is to help you rotate and take advantage of your food storage on a daily basis. You can search through our recipes with the list of categories and product types below or use our drop down menus above. If there are any ideas or recipes that you have that you would like to share with us, please email us at sales@beprepared.com.
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Sugar
Taco Seasoning
Taco TVP
White Beans
White Rice
Whole Eggs
Whole Wheat Flour
Yeast
http://beprepared.com/recipes.asp_Q_ai_ ... SID=ppblog
The All-in-One Pancake
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_u6PCvW_F6-...00/Camping.jpg
All-in-One Pancake (perfect for camping)
Ingredients:
1/4 cup dehydrated whole eggs http://beprepared.com/product.asp?pn=FS ... sid=ppblog
1/4 cup buttermilk powder http://beprepared.com/product.asp?pn=FS ... sid=ppblog
1/4 cup butter powder http://beprepared.com/product.asp_Q_pn_ ... sid=ppblog
1/2 cup dehydrated refried beans http://beprepared.com/product.asp_Q_pn_ ... sid=ppblog
2 tbsp freeze-dried spinach http://beprepared.com/product.asp_Q_pn_ ... sid=ppblog
1 tsp chili powder http://beprepared.com/product.asp_Q_pn_ ... sid=ppblog
1/2 tsp garlic powder http://beprepared.com/product.asp_Q_pn_ ... sid=ppblog
1/2 cup freeze-dried corn http://beprepared.com/product.asp_Q_pn_ ... sid=ppblog
2 cups self-rising flour
salt to taste
Directions:
Mix this with water to form a batter (pancake batter consistency). Let it sit for a minute and you have a savory pancake that is a complete meal. Other fun add-ins: freeze-dried cheese http://beprepared.com/search.asp?t=ss&s ... sid=ppblog or sausage crumbles. http://beprepared.com/product.asp_Q_pn_ ... sid=ppblog
Submitted by Mindy from Alabama
Posted by Emergency Essentials® at 4:06 PM
http://preparednesspantry.blogspot.com/ ... ncake.html
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Self-Rising Flour
By: conrouss
"This is how you prepare self-rising flour when you run out of the original."
http://images.media-allrecipes.com//...big/276584.jpg
Original Recipe Yield 1 cup
Ingredients
* 1 cup all-purpose flour
* 1/2 teaspoon salt
* 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
Directions
1. Stir or sift together the flour, salt, and baking powder. Presto, you've got self-rising flour!
Nutritional Information open nutritional information
Amount Per Serving Calories: 459 | Total Fat: 1.2g | Cholesterol: 0mg
http://allrecipes.com//Recipe/self-risi ... etail.aspx
What is self-rising flour?
August 2, 2007
24 comments
Self-rising flour has an almost magical sound to it. And if you look at recipes that call for it, you’ll see that they do not call for the addition of salt or leavening agents, though biscuits, cakes and breads made with seem to rise up just fine. The reason for this is that self-rising flour is actually nothing of the sort. It is flour that has a leavening agent – baking powder – and salt added to it during packaging. Since the ingredients are evenly distributed throughout the flour, you will get the same nice lift to your baked goods every time you use it.
If you don’t have self-rising flour and you have a recipe that calls for it, you can make your own by combining 1 cup all purpose flour with 1 tsp baking powder and 1/4 tsp salt. Similarly, if you only have self-rising flour, you can reduce the baking powder and salt called for in a recipe that uses standard all purpose flour.
Now that being said, it is also worth noting that there are several brands of self-rising flour that have a lower protein content than all purpose flour (11% protein). They are effectively cake flours (8% protein). Wheat protein, or gluten, is what gives baked goods much of their structure, but it can also cause a bread to be too dense or tough. White Lily and Presto are two examples of self-rising brands that use a low-protein cake flour as their base, and if a recipe calls for one of them, you should use cake flour in place of all purpose in the conversion given above.
http://bakingbites.com/2007/08/what-is- ... ing-flour/
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Pioneer Living Survival Magazine
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