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Build Your Own Cob Dog House
March 20, 2012 By Cheryl
Step-by-step description of how to build a cob dog houseDesigned by Cheryl and Roland MagyarWe live on a farm out in the country with no fences surrounding our property – by choice. In this flat lands setting with four seasons, a hot and dry summer and snow in winter, it takes more than just an ”oil barrel” or a thin walled wooden structure to give our pets what they deserve: a decent house, a refuge and sense of home. Our buildings here on the farm are built of cob on brick foundation and since we had been experimenting with clay as earth-friendly construction material via a couple of workshops back in the U.S., as well as built our outdoor cob oven – we felt like treating our dogs to a similar comfort. Furthermore, we like to express our affection as human beings to organic shapes and love to discover art in nature.
This dog house design below has stirred up great interest in caring dog owners all around the world – from Australia to Canada. We recommend you give it a thought or two as well!
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When designing the cob dog house we had a mid-size dog couple and their litter in mind, so that it can accommodate their whole family up to the point when the puppies are weened off and sold. To give you an idea what we mean by mid-size, here are the measurements of our Hungarian Puli shepherd dogs at present: the full-grown bitch is 35cm (14”) tall and from nose to rump measures 55cm (21.75”), the male’s same measurements, that is still growing, are 40cm (16”) and 65cm (25.75”) respectively.
The materials you will need are either those that follow or materials with similar properties fulfilling the same function, as many of these can be found locally. Where applicable, gather more rather than less than what you absolutely need, because you can utilize them for the regular maintenance of the cob dog house later on, this way assuring a long lifespan for the structure:
- one wood Y-post as central support of the structure: 1.5m (60”) long and 9cm (3.5”) thick
- frost resistant bricks for foundation
- 20-25 pieces of 130cm (51”) long and 4cm (1.5”) thick dry sunflower stalks or round stakes
- 5-6 heaping wheelbarrows full of dry, non moldy, strong, long bladed hay
- 4 wheelbarrows of construction clay
- 2 wheelbarrows of coarse sand
- 4 wheelbarrows of (possibly fresh) cow or horse manure
- in our experience dogs like the cool dirt as floor in summer and cornhusks that don’t get caught in their fur and are not skin irritant as winter bedding – optional
- burlap or other thick, yet breathable and natural fabric as door flap
- one or more bendable branch(es) that holds the door flap as a rod
- sewing thread (preferably from the flap fabric) to secure the fabric on its rod
- natural pigments to add to the plaster mix for color interest (choose something from your vernacular landscape) – optional
- hemp twine
Tools needed are a wheelbarrow, pruners, saw, shovel, spade, rake, trowels (metal for mixing and wood for plastering), a couple of buckets for water, measuring tape, rubber gloves (optional), sewing needle (embroidery kind with larger hole).
The best time to do the work – to speed up the drying process – is in warm, dry weather. Allow at least two-three days from start to finish. This project is a team work of two-three people (or two adults and a child).
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First choose the right place for the cob dog house considering factors like winds (orienting the door away from the predominant strong winds of your area is important), sunshine (ours is under the partial protection of a deciduous shrub that had been carefully pruned to accommodate the house without rubbing against any part of it, not to damage the plaster, yet letting some of the branches drape over the house to filter the hot summer sun), allowing for visual contact between the dog and your home’s entrance where it expects to see you most often and last but not least, think of maximizing the visual appeal of the doghouse set in a beautiful garden landscape. Now let’s get to work.
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Depending on how thick wall you consider appropriate for your climate, you may need to double the thickness of the brick foundation in which case you will need about time and a half of the bricks necessary for our thinner walled version. We found the shape of a slightly destorted circle into an oval even more true to nature than the regular circle, but whatever exact shape you wish to give to the house’s floor plan, you will need to draw it into the ground (eg. by a scratch line). Keep in mind that this will mark the outer perimeter of the brick foundation. In our doghouse’s case this has a 170cm (67”) maximum diameter. Find the center point of the oval and dig a 50cm (20”) deep hole for the Y-post. Pour a little sand in the hole, compact it with the post and place the post in its permanent position, filling the dirt back in. Dig down about time and a half of your bricks’ thickness and create a wide enough profile for the first layer of bricks (depending on your choice, one or two parallel running rows). Before laying down the bricks, fill into this straight angled, flat bottomed and horizontal, oval profile a layer of coarse sand so that after compacting it with a flat object, the depth is about half of a brick’s thickness. Now put in place the bottom layer of bricks so that they follow the shape of the trench closely. Fill in the gaps with broken pieces of bricks and/or brush sand into them. We did not use any mortar for binding the bricks together as the weight of the upper structure will anchor the house very well not allowing any side shifting. When you are laying down the second, top layer of bricks, alternate the position of the gaps. If you decide to go with double thickness, run the top layer of bricks across the ones below. Since this layer is already above the ground, make sure that there are no air gaps between the bricks on the inside of the foundation. You may partially fill the outside gaps with sand, but the majority of the void will be covered by the plaster. Remember to leave a 40cm (16”) gap in the bricks where the door would be. The brick layer below the entrance will serve as erosion protection from the dogs going in and out.
Next comes the construction of the wall/roof with the hybrid technique of wattle and daub light straw-clay. If you opt for a thick wall, use wooden stakes instead of sunflower stalks for safety. Start laying the first and longest stalks or stakes across the Y-post and each other. Cut the lower ends in an angle to lay flat on the bricks and space them out evenly, leaving room between for shorter stalks/stakes that will not reach the top. The latter ones will be woven in as you go, one person weaving, the other holding the stakes. Where the longest stalks cross, they can be tied with the hemp twine to hold them in place. The stakes still need to rest on each other and the Y-post securely, the twine is mostly for not letting them shift during the weaving. For the door opening make sure to place one strong stalk/stake on each side that meet up on the top and will act as door frames. This is also where you begin and finish each layer of weaving.
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Prepare the clay slip in the wheelbarrow, by mixing the dry clay with water to make a nice homogenous soup that is able to coat the handfuls of hay both outside and inside. The hay is gently pulled and twisted to form long ”sausages” that are immersed in the clay slip and lightly agitated in there. Shake off the excess slip and wrap the sausage around the door frame to form a nice edge, while making sure that one end of the sausage reaches past the next stake. The hay sausages in the first few layers need to fall on the bricks. Where they don’t, you need to insert new, shorter ribbing segments halfway inbetween two neighboring stakes. Make sure that no stalk/stake sticks out from an even conic plane of the skeleton. Add the new sausages overlapping the previous one as you weave. Each layer of such sausages is alternated like in any weaving, pulling them tight and putting light downward pressure on them as needed. As the layers grow, smoothen the excess clay slip with your palms downward onto the layers below, this way improving the water shedding function. Take several breaks to allow the layers some drying time.
When you reach to about 35cm (14”) height at the door, you need to add the empty door flap rod by weaving both of its ends into the skeleton of the structure. The door flap comes on at the very end, once the finished plaster is dry. Although both of our dogs need to duck a little, their backs are plenty flexible enough to do so and we believe that it provides them with an increased sense of shelter and security: neither us as adults, nor eventual intruder larger size dogs could get in easily. Depending on your location this may or may not be a concern. You can always adjust the entrance’s dimensions to best fit your own dog’s needs. Right above this ”rod” lay across a short piece of the ribbing material to finish off the door frame. This will likely have to support shorter vertical pieces of stakes above the door. Continue weaving till you reach the top, decreasing the size of the sausages accordingly.
Allow the finished wall to completely dry before you start plastering over. When it is ready, prepare the plaster mix in a wheelbarrow, recording your ingredient proportions to easily replicate it batch after batch. Cut up the hay in 5cm (2”) pieces or alternatively use broken up good quality straw, the loose fluff of cattail heads, animal hair, smaller feathers or down, etc. as binding agent and mix it in with clay, sand and manure. Fresh cow or horse manure is best (old dry manure is harder to break up), the enzymes and proteins in its juices act as natural adhesive in the mix, the undigested plant material also adds to water resistance and prevents cracking. Sand provides strength and structural stability between the clay particles, reducing the clay’s tendency to crack as it dries. Nonetheless, the clay and the manure are the main ingredients of the mix, do not overdose the sand or the plant/animal fibers. Also be careful with how you add water to the mix, as it is easy to add too much but hard to take away from it and a little bit goes a long way. So add water gradually. This is the point when you can add the optional pigments (for example powdered red brick). There is no hard and fast recipe for the proportions, you might want to experiment beforehand with a small batch and when you find the right proportions, increase those accordingly for the plaster project. As a result you should have a shiny, sticky mass that is not too wet (definitely not dripping) and it adheres to itself and the woven surface below. Be sure to cover the tip of the house thickly and to round it off sufficiently, enough to cover all of the structural joints below and to shed water.
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Apply the plaster by hand and sequentially smoothen with an always wet wooden trowel. It should be applied a couple of inches thick, so the mixture needs to be thick enough to hold its own weight. The plaster should also wrap around the vertical door frames, this is where the dogs may rub the most.
On your outermost plaster layer you may want to play with the relief and create 3-dimensional effects, such as the one above our doghouses entrance that isn’t just aesthetic but also sheds some water from going right in the door.
If you chose to have a thick wall, add additional layers of plaster once the previous ones are dry. It is good to make shallow grooves in the lower layers of plaster so the new ones can key in better.
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When this is done and dry, sew the door flap onto its rod and allow your dogs to explore their new home, while you enjoy watching them and taking note of the color change in the plaster as it dries. Do not be offended if your dogs remove some dirt from inside, digging smaller holes in the dirt floor of their house, they are just turning it into a home. In summer no bedding is necessary if your summer weather is hot like ours, because dogs appreciate the coolness of the earth.
We recommend – as with any earthen structure – to replaster it once a year. It is usually done in late spring. You may also try to landscape around the doghouse with perennials or any flowering plants.
Be loose, be creative, have fun and be prepared for the compliments you will receive from others!
Some useful resources:
Guelberth, Cedar Rose and Dan Chiras, The Natural Plaster Book earth, lime and gypsum plasters for natural homes , New Society Publishers, 2003.
Denzer, Kiko, Build Your Own Earth Oven A low-cost wood-fired mud oven; simple sourdough bread; perfect loaves, Hand Print Press, 2001.
There are plenty of wonderful websites out there too…they are yours to seek out!
Build Your Own Cob Dog House
Winter Prep Checklist
Posted on December 14, 2011 at 11:00 AM
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Car
- Make sure your car has plenty of anti-freeze, and that you’ve got more tucked away in your garage. Go ahead and check your other fluid levels as well.
- Check your windshield wiper blades. Replace them if they look worn or haven’t been doing a good job.
- Take a peak at your tires. Check the tread to make sure you’ve got adequate grip on the roads. Switch to snow tires if you live in an area where they are needed.
- Check your filters, spark plugs, and batteries. If you aren’t mechanically inclined, have an auto mechanic give your car a once-over.
- Make sure your all your lights are in good working order. Check the headlights, taillights, and blinkers.
Car Survival
- Take a look in your BOB or GOOD bag/container. Is there anything you need to add to it?
- Add extra blankets to your BOB, and throw an another blanket in your trunk or backseat.
- If you have warm-weather clothes in your bag, switch them out for warm clothes. Don’t forget extra pants, shirts, socks, and boots, in case what you have gets wet from snow or rain.
- Add extra socks to your car or bag. Extra as in, in addition to what you just put in there.
- Double and triple check to be sure you have enough warm clothes and blankets for your kids.
- Check the date and quality of the food and water in your car or BOB. Now’s a good time to rotate things out if you haven’t done it recently.
- Add some small toys or crayons and paper to make sure you can keep the kids occupied. Travel in winter weather can take longer than normal, even if it is safe to travel.
Home
- Stock up on your alternative heating options—firewood, gas for generations, etc. Don’t forget about matches, lighters, fire starters, and all the other accessories needed to keep warm.
- Make sure you have plenty of water. You’ll need water for drinking, cooking, and personal hygiene, and for pets as well.
- Rotate your food storage if needed, and stock up on cold weather treats to have on hand. Hot chocolate, marshmallows for the kids, and plenty of beans and seasoning for chili are a great start.
- Get more batteries. You know you’ll use them.
- Check your gutters and downspouts. Clean them or have them cleaned.
- Make any repairs to your home that will ensure you stay warm and safe during any winter storm.
- Trim any tree limbs that could fall on the house if the weight of ice caused them to break.
- Winterize your pipes, appliances, windows, and doors. Check insulation and install storm doors if needed.
- Stock up on inexpensive games and toys for the kids to squash cabin fever. Or, put away some of the toys the kids already have and bring them back when the “I’m bored!” whines begin.
Miscellaneous
- Get a weather radio. Set it to notify you of any winter weather advisories, watches, or warnings.
- Understand the risks in your particular area. If you’re used to snow, ice or wind chills might be a bigger concern. If snow is uncommon, like in the South, where it tends to shut everything down, you’ll need to be ready to head to the store BEFORE the masses hit the streets.
- Sign up for weather alerts that are specific to your area. This is also great for spring and summer severe weather.
- Have a game plan for getting the kids home from school if it is canceled early. Also, go ahead and think about what you’ll do with the kids if school is called off for a day, and you still have to report to work.
- Print some checklists or spreadsheets to catalog your survival inventory. It’ll give you something to do when you can’t play checkers for the millionth time.
- Make notes of things that do and don’t work if you experience power outages or other quasi-end of the world situations.
Source
Survival Articles - Survival-Tube
Survival Tube
Wilderness Survival - Survival-Tube
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Beauty infusion ... the author, nutritionist Karen Fischer, enjoys a papaya smoothie with her anti-oxidant salad. Eat your way to great skin...
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Grow it yourself...this is the future..
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Monsanto own Companies .. do not buy
Ten Essential OTC Medications to Stockpile
By Cynthia J. Koelker, MD
– April 11, 2011
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The following article was originally published at www.survivalblog.com.
* * * Are over-the-counter (OTC) drugs really worth stockpiling? As a family physician my answer is a resounding yes. Most of the following were actually prescription medications when first released. (In higher dosages, several still are.) Although other OTC drugs are worth considering, these ten have been selected due to their ready availability, affordability, safety in both adults and children, and multi-use potential. Used alone or in combination, they can effectively treat dozens of conditions including: headache, fever, sore throats, ear ache, menstrual cramps, heartburn, arthritis, ulcers, diarrhea, allergies, hives, congestion, dizziness, mild anxiety, nausea, vomiting, poison ivy, athlete’s foot, ringworm, eczema, insomnia, backache, gout, diaper rash, yeast infections, and many more common illnesses.
1. Ibuprofen (Motrin, Advil) – Among the OTC anti-inflammatory medications, ibuprofen is probably the most versatile. Primarily indicated for pain and inflammation, it may also be used to relieve headaches, earaches, sore throats, sinus pain, stiff neck, muscle strains, menstrual cramps, arthritis including gout, and back pain. It is also effective at reducing fever and is generally safe for use in children. It is not advisable for most stomach-related pain, although may decrease the pain of kidney stones, kidney infections, and possibly bladder infections. The most common side effect is stomach irritation or heartburn. When combined with acetaminophen it is nearly as effective as codeine, tramadol, or hydrocodone in relieving more severe pain.
2. Acetaminophen (Tylenol) – Acetaminophen is the only OTC pain-reliever that is not an anti-inflammatory drug. It will not irritate the stomach like ibuprofen, aspirin, or naproxen. It is useful for the same conditions as ibuprofen, though effectiveness varies according to patient. As mentioned above, it may be combined with ibuprofen in full doses for more severe pain. Side effects are very few, though in high dose, especially when combined with alcohol, it can lead to liver failure. It is available in several pediatric dosages, both for pain relief and fever reduction.
3. Diphenhydramine (Benadryl) – An inexpensive antihistamine, diphenhydramine is primarily used for drainage due to respiratory infections and nasal allergies, in both adults and children. It is also indicated for hives and itching, including itchy rashes such as poison ivy. Although not all patients become drowsy when using diphenhydramine, many do so, making this medication useful for insomnia as well. Some people find the drug relieves nausea or mild anxiety.
4. Loperamide (Imodium) – The most effective OTC medication for diarrhea is loperamide, which is available both as tablet form and liquid for children. It is often useful for relieving intestinal cramping.
5. Pseudoephedrine (Sudafed) – Pseudoephedrine is effective at relieving congestion of both the upper and lower respiratory tract due to most common causes including infection, allergy, chemical irritation, and mild asthma or bronchitis. It frequently has a stimulatory effect, similar to caffeine. The most common side effects are those resembling a burst of adrenaline: rapid heart rate, palpitations, and increased blood pressure. Years ago this drug was used in young children, even babies, though now most pediatricians do not advise it in patients younger than about six years old.
6. Meclizine (Bonine, Dramamine) – This antiemetic drug is available both over the counter and by prescription. It relieves nausea, vomiting, motion sickness, and vertigo-like dizziness. For some patients it causes drowsiness, and therefore may be used as a sleep aid. It is related to medications for anxiety and may help with this as well.
7. Ranitidine (Zantac) – Although several medications are available OTC for the treatment of heartburn, ulcers, and other acid-reducing conditions, ranitidine is among the best-tolerated, is inexpensive, and is also useful for relieving hives. Doctors often advise an acid-reducing medication such as ranitidine for patients who experience stomach upset when taking ibuprofen, though this must be done with caution.
8. Hydrocortisone cream – The 1% version of hydrocortisone is the strongest steroid cream available over the counter. It is safe for use in both adults and children in treating inflamed and/or itchy rashes such as eczema, poison ivy, diaper rash, and other minor genital irritations.
9. Bacitracin ointment – This ointment is best used to prevent skin infections when the integrity of the skin has been breached, as by an abrasion, laceration, insect bite, or sting. It also may be used to treat a superficial skin infection such as a mildly infected wound or impetigo. It is less likely to produce a topical skin allergy than other topical antibiotic preparations that contain neomycin. It cannot be used to treat deeper infections, however, which generally require an antibiotic by mouth.
10. Clotrimazole (Gyne-Lotrimin) The same antifungal medication, clotrimazole, is contained in both Lotrimin and Gyne-Lotrimin. Gyne-Lotrimin may be used to treat both female yeast infections and any other yeast or fungal infection that Lotrimin would treat, including athlete’s foot, jock itch, ringworm, diaper rashes, and skin fold irritations.
Conclusion
For under $50 total a good supply of all of the above can be purchased. Several of these medications are also available at higher doses by prescription, and may actually be less expensive if obtained from a physician (ranitidine, meclizine, loperamide, and diphenhydramine), even paying full price. All of the above drugs and many more are discussed in detail in my book, 101 Ways to Save Money on Health Care. The book includes dozens of sections on treating yourself. Available for under $10 online, the book offers practical advice on treating: respiratory infections, pink eye, sore throats, nausea, diarrhea, heartburn, urinary infections, allergies, arthritis, acne, hemorrhoids, dermatitis, skin infection, lacerations, lice, carpal tunnel syndrome, warts, mental illness, asthma, COPD, depression, diabetes, enlarged prostate, high blood pressure, high cholesterol, and much more.
Related articles
- Medication Dependence and TEOTWAWKI — 10 Tips for Survival, by Cynthia J. Koelker, MD (survivalblog.com)
- Medicine for a Desert Isle . . . or the End of the World (armageddonmedicine.net)
- Free Offer – Medication Dependence and Stockpiling Meds (armageddonmedicine.net)
- How to get your doctor to help you stockpile medicine (armageddonmedicine.net)
Ten Essential OTC Medications to Stockpile | Armageddon Medicine
Armageddon Medicine
How to be your own doctor in 2012 and beyond
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The Homestead Survival
Ghost topped Pumpkin Cheesecakes with Biscoff Crust
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How to Detox Your Home Naturally, 7 Ways
true cinnamon quills
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cinnamon quills from Sri Lanka Source: photo by: BkCreative
Detox Your Home Naturally, 7 Ways
Researchers now say indoor air can be 10 times more polluted than the air outdoors. This is due to the many toxic products we have in our homes, such as formaldehyde and benzene released from furniture, rugs, plastic and paints. These products can then trigger headaches, fatigue, wheezing, allergic reactions, or a blue mood. Many people are buying air purifiers but not only are they costly to buy but they use electricity - another cost.
Of course eliminating products that out gas and using no VOC paint products is the best way to start. However, there are many natural ways to address the problems which are decorative as well as effective:
1) BAMBOO -
When I lived in Korea, I noticed bamboo was used everywhere to clean the air. Not bamboo as a stalk in its green state. When bamboo is baked at ultra-high temperatures, it turns into absorbent charcoal. This charcoal becomes an odor magnet which then draws in bad odors and also hazardous chemicals like formaldehyde, benzene, and ammonia. People in Korea, as well as China and Japan have used bamboo in briquette form for hundreds of years to eliminate odors from kitchens, bathrooms, closets, shoes, etc. When I stepped into any school or business in Seoul, I always noticed large chunks of this kind of bamboo. Also whenever I purchased a green plant, a piece was stuck into the pot - perhaps making it doubly effective.
2) A SALT CRYSTAL LAMP - (see photo and my hub pages article)
I’ve used this both in Korea and now in the USA. When the salt gets heated by the low wattage bulb, salt crystals are released into the air and attach to impurities, weighing them down so they cannot circulate and you will not breathe them in. It will also neutralize pollutants and toxins, and it offers light therapy. I do find the glow very soothing - so perhaps that is light therapy at work. There are no longer any dust bunnies under my bed - and I am no longer aware of the endless amount of dust that used to float about in every ray of sunlight.
3) CINNAMON - (see photo)
The photo that you will see is of real cinnamon. Unfortunately what we buy here in the USA is not real cinnamon - just something that looks a bit like it in quill form. It’s hard to say if the results will be the same. Studies show that the scent of cinnamon reduces fatigue, makes you feel happier, and increases your attention span. Simmer 1-2 tablespoons of ground cinnamon in a pan of water and the whole house will smell fresh and clean. Those scented air fresheners on the market actually create toxic air by releasing dozens of chemicals as well as carcinogens. Sometimes, I have to supplement heat on extra cold days by using a portable heater. On the top I put a pot of water, and crush a cinnamon quill (one is enough) and it does smell delightful!
4) BEESWAX CANDLES -
Only real beeswax will do, and they should be made from 100% natural beeswax. Regular candles on the market are often made solely from paraffin with added chemical scents; this then adds smoke and toxins to the air - whereas the beeswax literally cleans the air by producing pollution clearing negative ions (like the salt crystal lamp). The initial cost may be higher but then they last five times longer. Make sure it says 100% beeswax on the label.
5) A CACTUS -
My cat loved my cactus. She would regularly rub against it - making it a great backscratcher or cat-scratcher. Scientist in Switzerland have discovered that employees who suffer from tiredness and headaches feel more energized if a cactus is placed near their monitors. It is thought that cacti have compounds that counter the effects of electromagnetic pollution and radiation emitted from the screen.
6) WATER FOUNTAIN -
Once again it is the negative ions at play (or work), like the salt crystal lamp and the beeswax candles. The water fountain will wash away airborne germs. The flowing water will release negative ions - air molecules that have broken apart, that then attach themselves to air pollutants dragging them down so you cannot breathe them in. Researchers say the fountains are so effective at cleaning air - they work as well as a HEPA filter.
7) HOUSE PLANTS -
I think the most popular and most commonly used air cleaner is the house plant. Some work better than others. NASA scientists have found that houseplants, like spider plants, and flowers like mums and gerbera daisies can remove up to 87% of toxic indoor air all in one day; this includes carbon monoxide and cigarette smoke. Plants naturally have a built in filtration system that suck in hazardous particles and then neutralize them. Rooms with plants are said to contain half the amount of airborne microbes as rooms that do not have plants.
For my much polluted environment here in New York City, I need all the help I can get and so far the items I have used I think have made a difference, e.g. plants, salt crystal lamp, and cinnamon.
salt rock lamp
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my salt rock lamp
How to Detox Your Home Naturally, 7 Ways
For The Scentual Man In Your Life - DIY Homemade Shaving Product Recipes
Made @ Home Masculine Scentuality
Very seldom are men considered when it comes to natural skin care and homemade herbal products.
Yet more often than not it seems that today's man is starting to take care of his skin, hair, hands and nails so why not come up with some masculine scented recipes specifically for men. Keep reading this Hub Article as that is exactly what I intend on doing.
I would have it a guess that a good majority of men do not actually enjoy shaving and they dread the thought of having to shave simply because it feels as if they are scraping sandpaper over their face which sometimes injures the protective layers of their skin causing discomfort in the form of a skin rash only to then throw on a commercially-made after-shave which may burn and cause further skin irritation.
No wonder they feel like that because lets face it, who really wants to kiss flaking, dehydrated skin covered with shaving spots and a rash?
Not me and probably not you either!
Just pause for a moment and think about the prospect of you never kissing your man ... I don't think so!
So what is the answer then?
Although you cannot prevent the need for daily shaving, you can significantly reduce the amount of skin irritation and discomfort of regular shaving by offering him alternative shaving products that can be easily made at home.
The following easy to make shaving product recipes are effective in eliminating skin rashes and razor burn and they have an added bonus of smelling delicious too.
Because he will be smelling as sexy-as-hell, you will definitely find him more appealing to be around as you fall in love with the enhanced aromatics of your man's masculine scentuality and the fact that he is now totally kissable.
But don't take my word for it ... try it for yourself!
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Homemade Shaving Products For The Scentual Man In Your Life
Keep an eye out for some fancy lidded jars and bottles to keep your homemade shaving products in.
You could always add some extra features such as tags, labels, decorations, etc to make them even more interesting. Twist and twirl some craft-wire around the rim and tie on some cinnamon stick to it.
These homemade products will not have as long a 'shelf-life' as commercially-made products as you have not added any long-life preservatives so make them in small batches and make sure that they are used within a month of opening up the jar or bottle.
The quantities specified in the various recipes ensures that there is only sufficient cream, lotion or liquid for your immediate needs.
You could always add 8-12 drops of LEMON JUICE to any of the lotions or cream recipes, unless already included to extend their keeping qualities.
I would also recommend that your man does a 'patch test' first on the underside of his forearm before applying any of your homemade shaving products just to check that he will not have an allergic reaction to any of the ingredients used.
If a allergic reaction occurs, such as reddening, blistering, burning or itching of the skin then you can remove the offending ingredient and substitute it with another herb, essential oil, etc.
Have fun experimenting and you may even surprise yourself by coming up with your own masculine-scented concoctions.
Homemade Pre-Shave Moisturiser
Ingredients -
2 teaspoons BEESWAX
3 tablespoons LANOLIN
4 tablespoons ALMOND OIL
1/2 cup ORANGE FLOWER WATER (buy from Chemists), or make your own beforehand - (1 cup dried orange or lemon rind and 1/2 cup vodka - combine and store in a dark place for at least one month, then strain, discarding the rind).
Method -
Melt the BEESWAX and LANOLIN in a Double Boiler and add the ALMOND OIL.
Remove from the heat. Mix well and beat in the ORANGE FLOWER WATER or your homemade version.
Store in a small wide-mouthed jar in a cool dark place.
Apply the pre-shave Moisturiser to warm, damp skin (best after a shower).
Massage in well before shaving to soften bristles and moisturise the face.
Homemade Shaving Soap
This recipe makes a subtly fragrant soap, ideal for shaving with.
You can either lather up this soap in the palm of your hands and rub it onto your face or if you prefer you can use a moistened shaving brush.
Ingredients -
1 cake non-scented, pure white SOAP, grated
DISTILLED WATER
4 drops of LAVENDER ESSENTIAL OIL
2 drops of THYME ESSENTIAL OIL
1 drop of PEPPERMINT ESSENTIAL OIL
5 drops of BERGAMOT ESSENTIAL OIL
Method -
Melt SOAP in enamel pan, over a low heat, with enough DISTILLED WATER to form a soft paste.
Stir in the ESSENTIAL OILS until well blended, remove from the hat and spoon into a wide-mounthed, shallow container.
Let the soap harden for at least 48 hours before use.
Homemade Shaving Cream
This soft cream is excellent for those who prefer not to use a shaving brush.
You can apply this shaving cream paste onto the face with your fingers once you have lathered it in the palms of your hands.
Ingredients -
1/2 cake non-scented, pure white SOAP, grated
175ml ROSEWATER
175ml VODKA
DISTILLED WATER
Method -
Melt the SOAP in an enamel pan, over a low heat, with just enough DISTILLED WATER to form a soft paste when cold.
Dissolve ROSEWATER in the VODKA and mix into the soap paste.
Store in a wide-mouthed, screw-top jar.
Homemade Star-Anise Shaving Cream
Ingredients -
1 STAR ANISE
1 cup WATER
1/2 cup SOAP FLAKES (or non-scented left-over Soap - grated)
1/2 cup VODKA
1 drop ROSE or LAVENDER ESSENTIAL OIL
Method -
Combine the STAR ANISE and WATER in a pan, bring the mixture to the boil and then reduce heat and simmer for 10 minutes.
Leave mixture to cool, then remove the STAR ANISE.
Add the SOAP FLAKES (or non-scented grated soap) to the anise water mixture and stir in the soap over low heat until the mixture looks like a smooth paste.
Add the VODKA and ESSENTIAL OIL and beat well.
Store the Shaving Cream in a sealed glass jar in a cool place.
Homemade Spicy Astringent
This 'masculine spicy perfume' smells good enough to drink and is wonderful for oily or combination skin types.
Ingredients -
1 tablespoon grated ORANGE ZEST
2 tablespoons chopped FRESH PEPPERMINT
3 teaspoons MIXED SPICE
1 teaspoon HONEY
1 tablespoon GLYCERINE
3/4 cup (185ml) VODKA
1 cup ROSE WATER
1 teaspoon Tincture of BENZOIN (preservative)
4 drops CYPRESS ESSENTIAL OIL
4 drops SANDALWOOD ESSENTIAL OIL
Method -
Mix the ORANGE ZEST, PEPPERMINT, SPICE, HONEY, GLYCERINE and VODKA in a jar with a well fitting lid. Leave it in a warm place for at least a week, shaking it daily.
Strain mixture through a sieve and then add the remaining ingredients the to filtered mixture.
Mix well before pouring into a bottle and seal. Leave this mixture for four days to blend and shake it often.
Shake before you apply it to the face.
Homemade Herbal Aftershave Toning Lotion
Ingredients -
1&1/2 tablespoons chopped SAGE Leaves
1&1/2 tablespoons ROSEMARY Leaves/Sprigs
1&1/2 cups CIDER VINEGAR
1&1/2 cups WITCH-HAZEL (from the Chemist)
Method -
Put the HERBS in a large glass jar and pour in the warmed cider vinegar.
Seal tightly and leave the mixture to steep for at least one week in a place where it will receive plenty of warmth such as a sunny windowsill.
Strain the liquid off and add itto the WITCH-HAZEL, stirring until well blended.
Store in a tightly-capped bottle.
Pat on to the skin after shaving.
Homemade Invigorating Spicy After-Shave
This is an astringent aftershave and it is an excellent skin tonic and it also helps to stop bleeding from any shaving nicks/cuts.
Ingredients -
10 fresh or dried BAY LEAVES
2 tablespoons CORIANDER SEEDS
2 tablespoons DRIED WITCH-HAZEL LEAVES
1 CINNAMON Stick
2 teaspoons CLOVES
1 cup VODKA
Method -
Combine all ingredients in a lidded jar and allow to steep for 2 weeks.
Strain into another jar and discard the herbs and spices.
You can leave the Cinnamon stick in and add a fresh Bay Leaf if you wish - this will help make your finished product look more attractive.
Homemade Spicy Body Splash
Ingredients -
6 tablespoons DRIED LEMON RIND
2 CINNAMON STICKS
10 CLOVES
1 cup VODKA
1/2 large bottle of SPARKLING MINERAL WATER
Method -
Combine the LEMON RIND. SPICES and VODKA in a screw-top jar and leave to steep in a cool dark place for at least a week.
Strain the mixture into another jar, discarding the spices then pour the strained mixture into a bottle of SPARKLING MINERAL WATER.
Screw the lid on firmly and keep in a cool dark place.
Splash on liberally after bathing.
Homemade Clove-n-Orange Moisturiser Cream
For those of you who may be TIME-POOR this is another easy-to-make quick recipe that will do just as good a job as the recipe mentioned above.
Buy yourself a sensitive-skin non-scented cold cream or moisturiser that is already in a glass jar.
Add 5 drops of CLOVE ESSENTIAL OIL and 10 drops of ORANGE ESSENTIAL OIL to the cream and mix it in throughly before putting the lid back on. This can be stored in the fridge.
When rubbing cream onto the face just remember to keep your eyes closed as the Clove Oil may cause a burning sensation if it gets in your eyes.
This particular moisturising cream can be used before or after shaving. The clove and orange scent is very masculine and lasts a long time when worn.
For The Scentual Man In Your Life - DIY Homemade Shaving Product Recipes
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Thursday, June 17, 2010
nastrini di zucchine - zucchini ribbons
ieri sono rimasta proprio male. non ho molto tempo in questo periodo e poi con il caldo ho problemi di pressione bassa, quindi non riesco a combinare molto durante la giornata. avevo passato non so quante ore in queste ultime settimane su un regalo cucito per il matrimonio di una amica mia e stava venendo tutto proprio carino ma poi ieri, proprio nella ultimissima parte da completare, c’è stato un disastro totale e non riuscivo neanche a capire perché nè come rimediare. e alla fine non lo posso neanche più regalare. e mi vergogno di farlo vedere qui. managgia. queste cose mi fanno scoraggiare tantissimo. buuuu!
yesterday i was really bummed. i haven’t had a lot of time these past few weeks and with the sudden heat i’ve been having a lot of problems with low blood pressure, so i can’t get much done during the course of the day. i had spent i don’t even want to think about how many hours over the past few weeks sewing a gift for a friend’s wedding last month (whoops, a little late…) and it was coming out really nicely until yesterday when i was completely the very last part and disaster struck. i couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t coming together properly and nothing i did helped. so in the end, i can’t even give this gift anymore. and i’m too sad about it to publish it here. these things really discourage me a lot. booo!
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_BRwVwYGIPlc/TB...jpg?imgmax=800 quindi eccomi di nuovo con le cose da mangiare. questo contorno aveva preparato mia madre l’estate scorso mentre stavo da lei e mi piaceva un sacco. lei l’ha trovata in uno dei giornali bostoniani, the boston globe, ma non sono riuscita a trovare la ricetta online.
so here i am once more with food. my mother made this dish last summer when i was visiting her and i really like it a lot. she found the recipe in one of the boston newspapers, the boston globe, although i couldn’t find the recipe online.
nastri di zucchine in padella con pomodori e olive nere
servono: 900 grammi di zucchine grandi, sale, olio d’oliva, 1 spicchio di aglio, 1 pomodoro, 1/4 bicchiere di olive nere disossate, 8 foglie di basilico, parmigiano
1. usando una pela patata, fa i nastrini dalle zucchine in lunghezza. ferma quando arrivi ai semi centrali, che non servono.
2. metti i nastrini in una scolapasta, copri con un bel po’ di sale e lasciali per 5 minuti. mentre aspetti, taglia il pomodoro a cubetti, le olive in terzi, e il basilico a striscie. poi usa le mani per schiacciare il liquido dai nastrini.
3. riscalda l’olio in una padella grande. quando è caldo, aggiungi l’aglio, facendolo soffriggere circa 30 secondi, poi toglilo.
4. aggiungi le zucchine e il pomodoro e falli cuocere, girando spesso, 2-3 minuti in modo che le zucchini si ammorbidiscono e il pomodoro lascia un po’ di liquido.
5. aggiungi le olive e il basilico, girando ancora.
6. metti un poco di parmigiano grattuggiato sopra e mangia caldo. questa ricetta è per 4 porzioni.
sauteed zucchini ribbons with tomatoes and black olives
you need: 2 lbs zucchini (about 3 large zukes), 1 1/2 Tbsp. olive oil, 1 clove garlic, 1 plum tomato, 1/4 cup black olives, 8 basil leaves, 1/2 cup grated parmesan cheese
1. using a rotary vegetable peeler, peel the zucchini lengthwise into ribbons. peel the sides just until you reach the inner core of seeds. save the column of seeds for another dish or throw them out (or better yet, compost them!)
2. sprinkle the zucchini strips liberally with salt and set them aside for 5 minutes. in the meantime, cut the tomato into cubes, the olives into thirds and the basil into strips. then use your hands to squeeze the excess juices lightly from the zucchini.
3. in a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat the oil. add the crushed garlic and swirl it in the oil for 20-30 seconds or until it starts to sizzle, and then discard it.
4. add the zucchini and tomato. cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring often, or until the zucchini softens and the tomato releases some of its juices.
5. add the black olives and the basil and toss once more.
6. serve at once, sprinkled with grated parmesan. serves 4.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_BRwVwYGIPlc/TB...jpg?imgmax=800 io ho fatto un paio di cambiamenti. per prima, ho usato i pomodorini invece di un pomodoro grande. e ho aggiunto più pomodorini e olive della ricetta. sinceramente, mi ero dimenticata di aggiungere il parmigiano alla fine, quindi non c’è nelle foto.
i made a couple of changes. first of all, i used cherry tomatoes instead of a bigger tomato. and i used more tomatoes and olives than the recipe states. i honestly forgot to add the parmesan at the end, so it’s not in the photos.
questa ricetta è buona calda, o come contorno o insieme al riso o alla pasta. ma non volevo una cosa calda, quindi l’ho fatto raffreddare ed è anche buonissimo più fresco, secondo me, più addatto all’estate. ringrazio tanto alla mamma per questa ricetta!
this recipe is good hot, either as a side dish or with rice or pasta. but i didn’t want to eat something hot, so i let it cool down and it’s also quite nice chilled, in my opinion, better for the summer. thanks, mom, for this recipe!
con questo post partecipo al linky party di topogina!
this post is participating in topogina's linky party!
cucicucicoo: nastrini di zucchine - zucchini ribbons
Mending Basics: 4 Simple Techniques to Repair Damaged Clothes
By Becky Striepe On October 3, 2012 · Add Comment
http://c1feelgoodstylecom.wpengine.n...w-a-button.jpg
Fall is here! As you pull your fall gear out of the back of the closet, are you finding any pieces that have a few imperfections? Maybe there’s a split seam here and a missing button there. Don’t let these little things stop you from hanging on to an otherwise wearable garment! Check out these basic mending stitches to repair damaged clothes.
Why mending?
We live in a world of fast fashion. So many big box companies design and put together clothes that are meant to be worn for just one season, maybe two, and then replaced with whatever’s trendy next.
New clothes are fun, and splurging for a few good-quality pieces of clothing can help spice up your wardrobe, but the cycle of ditching clothing is terrible for the planet. Discarded clothes clutter our landfills, and it takes energy to manufacture and ship all of that new clothing all over the world.
That’s why mending what you have is so much greener than replacing it with something new.
Next time a cuff comes loose or a small tear mars one of your favorite pieces, try these simple techniques to repair them!
Next>> Fix broken seams with a simple ladder stitch.
Image Credit: Creative Commons photo by quinn.anya
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CjOX...layer_embedded
A split seam might feel like the end of your favorite top or skirt, but this is actually a very easy fix with a simple ladder stitch. Check out the video above showing you how a ladder stitch works, and first we have a few extra tips to make your repair invisible:
- Use coordinating thread – Choose a thread color that’s as close to the color of your garment as possible. For prints, choose a dominant color in the design.
- Use small stitches – Bigger stitches make the repair go faster, but doing more stitches that are smaller makes your finished product stronger and your repair less obvious.
- Start and end past the tear – To make your repair stronger, begin stitching about 1/4″ before the tear in the fabric and continue 1/4″ past the end of the broken seam.
Next>> Think you know how to replace a button? This trick makes your repair sturdier and longer-lasting!
Continued Below
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrSs_DiJ-ZA&feature=player_embedded
“Come on!” you must be thinking, “Anyone can sew on a button!” Sure, you could figure your way through it, but if you sew the button down flat, the stitches take extra stress every time you button or unbutton your garment. Check out this video for a simple trick to sew sturdier buttons, just like a pro.
Isn’t that nifty? Her illustration of how to tie the knot is great, too.
Next>> Mend an unraveling cuff with a whip stitch.
Continued Below
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9kGyZDWZcA&feature=player_embedded
Unraveling cuffs are super annoying, especially on long pants. Luckily, that saggy cuff doesn’t have to mean the endtimes for your favorite pants or skirt! A super simple whip stitch will fix you right up. Just like with the ladder stitch, you’ll want to use a coordinating thread color and begin your repair about 1/4″ before the damaged part and finish up about 1/4″ after.
Ready to whip it? I apologize for the terrible music in the video above, but it does a great job illustrating how to do this simple stitch.
Next>> Repair small tears with an applique.
Continued Below
http://c1feelgoodstylecom.wpengine.n...ue-500x333.jpg I added a heart applique to this sweater to hide a small hole. This is machine stitched, but you can also sew your applique by hand.
Whether it’s a snag on your sweater or a rip in your favorite skirt, you may be able to use an applique to fix things right up. “Applique” is sort of a fancy word for “patch.”What I love about an applique is that not only does it cover an unsightly tear but it adds a totally unique little detail to your clothing. Have fun with choosing your applique fabric and shape!
Here’s how to sew a basic applique:
1. Measure the tear you need to cover.
2. Choose coordinating or contrasting fabric – your choice! Have fun with this! Once you choose your fabric, cut a shape out to use for your repair. I like to use hearts, because they’re simple to cut and sew, but you can cut whatever shape you like.
3. If you have a sewing machine, pin the applique to your garment and use the machine’s zigzag stitch to sew all the way around the outside edges. If you’re sewing by hand, use a small whip stitch to sew your applique down. You want your needle to come up through the applique and go back down right outside the edge of where the applique ends. This will secure your patch and also prevent fraying.
Do you have a favorite mending method that we missed here? Let’s talk clothing repair in the comments!
Tagged with: clothing • Fast Fashion • how to fix clothing • how to repair clothing • mending • mending clothing • reuse • slow fashion
Mending | Feelgood Style
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The Homestead Survival
Pemmican: The Original MRE
http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/...e-pemmican.htm
The Homestead Survival: Pemmican: The Original MRE Recipe
Tactical Intelligence
Intelligent Know-How for the Concerned Citizen
http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...57269122_n.jpg
http://profile.ak.fbcdn.net/hprofile..._3079043_q.jpg Homestead Survival
The Homestead Survival: Organic Chocolate Mint Lavender Coffee Recipe
Organic Chocolate Mint Lavender Coffee Recipe
Turmeric Prevents One of The Most Malignant Cancers In The World
October 15, 2012
http://www.wakingtimes.com/wp-conten...200.jpg?9d7bd4 Marco Torres, Prevent Disease
Waking Times
Powdered turmeric has been used for centuries to treat a host of illnesses. Its active ingredient, curcumin, inhibits inflammatory reactions, has anti-diabetic effects, reduces cholesterol among other powerful health effects. A new study led by a research team at Ludwig-Maximilians-Universitat (LMU) in Munich now shows that it can also inhibit formation of metastases.
http://preventdisease.com/images/tumeric_benefit-1.jpg One of the most comprehensive summaries of a review of 700 turmeric studies to date was published by the respected ethnobotanist James A. Duke, Phd. He showed that turmeric appears to outperform many pharmaceuticals in its effects against several chronic, debilitating diseases, and does so with virtually no adverse side effects.
Cancer is no exception. Prostate cancer is one of the most prevalent malignancies in the Western world, and is often diagnosed only after metastatic tumors have formed in other organs. In three percent of cases, these metastases are lethal. A research team led by PD Dr. Beatrice Bachmeier at LMU Munich has been studying the mode of action of a natural product that inhibits the formation of metastases. The compound is found in turmeric, a plant that has been used for medicinal purposes for thousands of years, and is a major ingredient of curry.
Duke noted that in the handbook Phytochemicals: Mechanisms of Action, curcumin and/or turmeric were effective in animal models in prevention and/or treatment of colon cancer, mammary cancer, prostate cancer, murine hepato-carcinogenesis (liver cancer in rats), esophageal cancer, and oral cancer.
Bachmeier’s research centers on curcumin, the polyphenol responsible for the characteristic color of curry. Curcumin is well tolerated and is therefore, in principle, suitable both for prophylactic use (primary prevention) and also for the suppression of metastases in cases where an established tumor is already present (secondary prevention). In a previous study Bachmeier and her colleagues had demonstrated that the substance reduces statistically significantly the formation of lung metastases in an animal model of advanced breast cancer.
Mitigating metastasis The new study was designed to investigate the efficacy of curcumin in the prevention of prostate cancer metastases, and to determine the agent’s mechanism of action. The researchers first examined the molecular processes that are abnormally regulated in prostate carcinoma cells. Breast and prostate cancers are often associated with latent or chronic inflammatory reactions, and in both cases, the tumor cells were found to produce pro-inflammatory immunomodulators including the cytokines CXCL1 und CXCL2.
The researchers went on to show that curcumin specifically decreases the expression of these two proteins, and in a mouse model, this effect correlated with a decline in the incidence of metastases. “Due to the action of curcumin, the tumor cells synthesize smaller amounts of cytokines that promote metastasis,” says Bachmeier. “As a consequence, the frequency of metastasis formation in the lungs is significantly reduced, in animals with breast cancer, as we showed previously, or carcinoma of the prostate, as demonstrated in our new study.”
Curcumin and chemoprevention Bachmeier therefore believes that curcumin may be useful in the prevention of breast and prostate cancers — which are both linked to inflammation — and in reducing their metastatic potential.
“This does not mean that the compound should be seen as a replacement for conventional therapies. However, it could play a positive role in primary prevention — before a full-blown tumor arises — or help to avert formation of metastases. In this context the fact that the substance is well tolerated is very important, because one can safely recommend it to individuals who have an increased tumor risk.”
A daily intake of up to 8g of curcumin is regarded as safe, and its anti-inflammatory properties have long been exploited in traditional oriental medicine. Men with benign hyperplasia of the prostate (BHP) are one possible target group for prophylaxis, as are women who have a family history of breast cancer. The agent might also be valuable as a supplement to certain cancer therapies. At all events, curcumin’s beneficial effects must first be confirmed in controlled clinical tests. Bachmeier is now planning such a trial in patients who suffer from therapy-resistant carcinoma of the prostate.
Turmeric Prevents One of The Most Malignant Cancers In The World - Waking Times : Waking Times
13 Year Old Develops Breakthrough Solar Technology
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=LHYCJKWjgtE#!
A Child Studies A Tree
A junior High School kid has invented a way of collecting sunlight for solar power that mimics the way leaves on trees do it!
Aiden Dwyer studied the pattern of the branches and discovered that they all follow a Fibonacci formula! This type of innovation is called Biomimicry -- looking to nature's examples for the most efficient way to accomplish a task.
Instead of thinking of solar panels as large flat things that must be installed on a roof, he had the idea to make a tree shaped collection of smaller panels, following the Fibonacci formula for an oak tree.
His invention may just liberate solar technology completely, bringing it down from the roof and into any kind of urban space, making solar power modular and portable.
Hoorah for the young scientist!
--Bibi Farber
This video was produced by Pop Tech.
Innovations 13 Year Old Develops Breakthrough Solar Technology
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http://profile.ak.fbcdn.net/hprofile..._3079043_q.jpg Homestead Survival
Aromatherapy Essential Oil Reference Chart- Super nice PDF - gives you the properties of and the uses for each oil.
The Homestead Survival: Aromatherapy Essential Oil Reference Chart- Super nice PDF - gives you the properties of and the uses for each oil.
100% Pure & Natural Therapeutic Grade Essential Oil- 7) Synergy Blends and 7) Top Oils= 14/ 10 ml (Eucalyptus, Cinnamon Bark, Lemon, Lavender, Peppermint, Sweet Orange, Rosemary, Meditation, Renew, Aphrodisiac, Stress Relief, Relaxation, Breathe Easy and Sensation)http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=h...1&a=B002RSXP28
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...99228291_n.jpg
Tuesday, October 16, 2012
Halloween Cupcake Decorating Tips & MethodOk, the website just shared the picture but did not tell how they made them.
But with everyone's creativeness I better we could figure it out.
Please share your thoughts on tips of how you think they were made.
My thoughts: Pumpkin cupcakes: add pumpkin shaped candy to the top and add green frosting leaves
Ghost Cupcakes: Black sprinkle with rolled out white fondant and shaped.
Eyeball Cupcake: White fondant rolled out and cut into a circle, add black food coloring to fondant and roll and and cut into a circle, squeeze out red frosting squiggly lines.
Grave Tombstone Cupcake - I think the dirt is crumbed up Oreo cookies but the grave tombstone is stumping me how to make.
Spider Web Cupcake: White frosting, brown frosting is shape of web and topped off with a plastic spider.
The Homestead Survival: Halloween Cupcake Decorating Tips & Method
August 9, 2012
How I Healed My Son’s Skin Infection (Without Antibiotics)
http://www.keeperofthehome.org/wp/wp...ngredients.jpg
This is a tale of how a mom can take charge of her family's health.
It isn't necessarily meant to read like a "how-to" (although you may find what I share useful), nor is it meant to make some sort of definitive statement about doctors and home remedies and antibiotics (although some may read that into it).
Rather, it is meant to be a descriptive story of one situation where I used a simple remedy to deal with a health concern that supposedly required medication.
Here's the story
For a little while, I had noticed some small bumps on the back of my son's leg. They were unlike anything I had seen before, but didn't seem particularly alarming. As a couple of them grew slightly, I began to be mildly concerned. Baffled, I wondered if they were similar to a pimple or even a manifestation of some sort of inward toxicity, because my son is particularly sensitive to toxins and doesn't handle them well. I tried looking on the internet to figure it out, but finally realized that I just had no idea and it was time to see a doctor when one became infected.
The doctor diagnosed the little bumps as something fairly benign, a type of wart-like virus common to children (passed around in swimming pools, on towels or soft toys, etc.) that is known as "mollescum contagium". He also confirmed that the redness and pain he was experiencing around one bump was a deep infection-- you could feel that it was a bit hard under the skin, which the doctor said was a pocket filling with infected pus.
The doctor recommended a round of oral antibiotics (which I wanted to avoid if at all possible, as they have very negative effects on digestion and gut flora). When I specifically asked about topical treatment instead, he told me that it was too deep to treat topically.
Oh, really?
Doctors everywhere, please don't tell me things like that. I take it as a direct challenge. I set out to prove him wrong as soon as I got home.
http://www.keeperofthehome.org/wp/wp...n-up-close.jpg You can see two of the molluscum in this picture, with the one on the right clearly infected
How I treated the infection
I chose to treat it with a poultice of raw honey, activated charcoal and a few drops of tea tree oil.
Why I chose my particular arsenal of ingredients from my natural medicine cabinet:
- Activated charcoal powder. It draws out toxins extremely well and can eliminate harmful bacteria as well. This video that I watched last year came to mind as I considered whether I would use charcoal and how I would do it.
- Raw honey. I needed something to make the charcoal into a paste with (otherwise it was just a powdery mess), and I chose raw honey because it also has antibacterial qualities and has been known to help heal other types of infections.
- Tea tree essential oil. For its antiseptic and antiviral qualities. I had also found a helpful blog post sharing how one women (and many others in the comments) had used tea tree oil for treating mollescum contagium.
This mixture was a bit goopy and gross looking, and he didn't love the feel of it on his skin, but then again, he didn't like having a painful infection either. I made it clear that I knew he didn't like it, but I really wanted to help the owie on his skin, and he consented, because I guess the owie felt worse than the goopy poultice.
http://www.keeperofthehome.org/wp/wp...l-poultice.jpg
At first, I used gauze pads so that I could cover a larger area, because the infection was spread out beyond the initial site where it began (it was about an inch in diameter). Gradually, I switched over to bandaids, once the infected area started to shrink.
Within a day or two, I could see that it was slightly less red and inflamed looking.
Within a few more days, it was definitely smaller in size, and the hard area under the skin was also much smaller. It wasn't causing as much pain anymore (though it was still somewhat painful).
The second week, it continued to decrease in pain, redness and size. At this point, I wasn't being quite as on-the-ball with the poultices. I began changing them less often and I moved to just a band-aid with a bit of the mixture, and occasionally, just with a herbal healing salve instead of the black sticky mess that the charcoal made.
We definitely missed a few days days, and sometimes he took the bandaids or poultice off because they were bugging him (although he was a very good sport overall).
At the 2-3 week point, it looked as though the infection was entirely gone and just a small mark remained where it had been. Now, at the 4 week mark, you can't even tell he had it at all. The skin looks completely healed. (And I'm sorry I don't have a picture to show you- I forgot to take one until today and found my camera battery dead).
What I am (and am not) saying in this post
I can already hear some of the comments, so I'm going to address them proactively:
1. I am not saying that we should avoid doctors or that their suggestions should necessarily be ignored. There are times when conventional medical treatment is the right course of action, but I think it can be helpful to ask ourselves some good questions before making a decision for either natural OR conventional treatment. As a matter of fact, I thoroughly appreciated the quick and accurate diagnosis the doctor provided, which I had not been able to figure out on my own.
2. Antibiotics are not the enemy. They are overused, abused, and are causing problems as a result of reckless prescription. Much of the time, infections could be treated more naturally or simply be allowed to run their course for a full recovery in a similar period of time. And yet sometimes, antibiotics are invaluable and even life-saving. I'm not opposed to antibiotics. I'm grateful to live in a time and place when they are available for us when we need them. But that's the key word... need.
3. Home remedies can, and often do, work as well or better than many prescription/allopathic medications. They're not something to mess around with, though, particularly if you're not sure what you're doing. I've been studying alternative health and natural remedies for years, and as a result, I feel comfortable treating many of our family's ailments. It's worth noting, though, that before I took this infection on, I had it diagnosed so that I knew clearly what I was dealing with.
My husband and I also had a conversation where we agreed that if it didn't show signs of improving within a couple of days (we set a specific date) then we would reconsider filling the prescription for the antibiotics.
Do you have a story of healing with a home remedy? I hope you'll share it.
DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT A CERTIFIED MEDICAL PROFESSIONAL OF ANY KIND AND AM NOT QUALIFIED TO GIVE YOU MEDICAL ADVICE. MY GOAL IS TO HELP TO EDUCATE AND INSPIRE YOU TO TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR OWN FAMILY'S HEALTH AND MAKE INFORMED CHOICES OF YOUR OWN, NOT TO CONSULT YOU ON MEDICAL TREATMENT. ADDITIONALLY, THIS POST DOES INCLUDE SOME AFFILIATE LINKS. I ONLY RECOMMEND PRODUCTS THAT OUR FAMILY WOULD PURCHASE AND USE OURSELVES.
How I Healed My Son’s Skin Infection (Without Antibiotics)
From the Kitchen to the Garden, by G.T.
Let's just say I have a fair amount of time on my hands and not a whole lot of money.
Add to that a curious mind with a bit of a preparedness mindset and you get someone who likes to experiment with produce and gardening. I wanted to share some of my experiences with growing plants straight out of my kitchen, often from produce bought at the grocery store that was meant to be eaten but didn't make it to the table, or had the seeds removed first.
If you've seen some of the propaganda out these days on our food supply, you might, like me, have become fearful about what we are feeding our children.
I saw videos about potatoes that will not grow being sold in the grocery stores and I have heard stories about the seeds in our produce somehow becoming inactive. I wanted to see for myself if the food that I feed my family is that horrific and unnatural that it cannot reproduce or grow anymore itself. I'm not saying whether the food is bad or good, obviously it would be best if we could all grow our own food supply in a healthy, sustainable manner but that's an entirely different topic. I am saying that some of the propaganda is just that, or that my produce bought at my local, inexpensive chain style grocery store is possibly not as processed, or treated as some of the other stuff that was used in the tests that I have seen or heard about. To be clear, these are my tests and results, I won't compare them with any others except for my own previous growing experience because there are just too many variables. The hope here is that you might try some of these ideas and see for yourself what might work and what won't.
You might be asking yourself "Why is this relevant?" Well, in our dependant society we just don't know what could disrupt the fragile food supply, when it could happen or for how long. Access to fresh, viable seeds might be an issue for you when it all goes down. Not only that, availability could also be an issue, last spring I had to go to four different stores looking for seed potatoes and onions. I wondered if I couldn't find them in time, would it be that important to simply not plant those particular items? Of course, it would be not a huge issue to just buy them when I need them for now when all things are just a drive or click away, but I wanted to know if there was a way to make do without. as
Some of you might find this material interesting, some might find it educational, many of you will undoubtedly get a good laugh at my level of inexperience. That's okay, but in TEOTWAWKI there might be a whole lot of people trying to do what I am attempting to do now. In all fairness I am not a master gardener, or a soil expert, I just have an interest in gardening and seed saving.
I believe that many people would actually be less practiced and less educated (if you can believe it) then me if the food supply ran dry and we had to rely on farming.
I am certain that there are many variables and my experiments likely will not produce the same results for someone else, somewhere else, or even for myself in the same situation next year. Just a few of the many variables might include the type of produce purchased, the brand name, the growing area, the soil composition and light and water requirements for growing or for what the produce was grown in or around.
The point is to try for yourself if you have the time, space or the curiosity.
To start, I used grocery store fruit and vegetables. Everything was purchased at a regular inexpensive chain type grocery store. I used regular produce, inexpensive and not labeled organic or pesticide free with exception of the strawberries which I bought on sale that were labeled organic.
When I say that I dried the seeds, all I did was scoop them out, and lay them somewhere to dry for at least two weeks occasionally turning or shaking them. With the squash, pumpkin and melon, I rinsed the seeds off first then dried them for at least three weeks before placing them in storage. My method of storing them is to put them in an unbleached envelope labeled by type of seed and the date, and catalogued in a file system, stored in a cool and dark place.
Garlic- I left the whole garlic heads in the fridge and when I didn't use them, they eventually began to sprout. I generally prefer to overwinter my garlic but I planted the cloves in the spring anyhow. I harvested them in late August and the result was not as good as my usual crop. They were smaller with smaller cloves but they did grow and produce. Perhaps if I had been able to plant them in the fall as I usually do, they would have been the same size as my usual garlic harvest.
Watermelon- Watermelon seeds are becoming harder and harder to find in store bought fruit. I was lucky enough to find two seeds that I planted directly into the garden without drying them. Unfortunately there was no growth.
Pumpkin- I bought a pumpkin last year and dried the seeds. This summer I planted them and did get some growth. Most of the seeds did sprout and began to grow but none made it long enough to produce any larger leaves, flowers or pumpkins. I probably would have done better if I sprouted the seeds indoors and planted them earlier.
Tomato- I bought some larger tomatoes but one or two of them didn't make it to the table. I sliced them open and scooped out the seeds to dry. In the spring I planted them and was very pleased to see them growing. Unfortunately my tomato harvest was not a large one this year probably because I just didn't plant enough of them. The plants did produce a good quality of tomato, resulting in about six or seven tomatoes per plant.
Carrot- I remembered an experiment from grade school science class when we cut off the tops of carrots and put them in water to grow. I tried to replicate that experiment with no good results.
Melon- I planted the seeds directly in the garden from a fruit bought at the store. The plants grew nicely and did finally begin to flower and produce fruit. There were a surprising amount of melons on each plant however they just didn't seem to have enough time to mature even in this years extended growing period. Next year I'll try starting them indoors early in pots that can be planted into the garden.
Potato- I bought a ten pound bag of potatoes and left a few in the dark to grow eyes. Once they did, I planted them in a pail in the hopes of creating a makeshift potato tower. Although they did try to grow, nothing much came of it. There were sprouts and leaves protruding through the soil but they soon wilted and died. I recently learned that potatoes like good drainage and the pail I used did not have holes drilled into the bottom which could certainly have contributed to my poor results. I think next year I'll try them in the garden.
Winter Squash- I just love squash. I planted the seeds in early spring and carefully tended to them. They sprouted and grew nicely for the most part with only one plant remaining small with no flowers and therefore no fruit. The others did well and the plants looked good but again, the squash seems premature and there is not enough time for them to mature. I never grew winter squash before so I have no comparison but each plant aside from the one that did not produce, gave one or two premature squash. This would be another one to be sure to plant early indoors in pots that can go directly into the garden.
Strawberry- I have never had any success with the 'grow your own' strawberry kits and I always wondered if there was another way of growing strawberries without buying any kits or seeds or plants. I bought some organic strawberries on sale and half of them were too ripe to eat. I planted them in early summer in a pot, whole, with the tops sticking out (this is when the experienced gardeners are likely shaking their heads). I took great care of them, making sure they had plenty of sun and just enough water. In the end all I got was a pot of dirt with some dried leaves sticking out.
Peppers- I tried four types of peppers this year, again all seeds from grocery store bought produce, and none had been labeled organic.
Bell Pepper- I sowed the seeds directly from the pepper without drying. The plants were ok looking, perhaps a little on the weak side compared to the seedlings I usually buy to plant. All of them did grow and did flower, most of them did produce nicely with good quality peppers averaging from one to four peppers on a single stalk.
Habanero Type- Sad story here, I dried the seeds, planted them directly in the garden in the summer and had no growth.
Cayenne- I dried the seeds from the store bought packet of peppers. There was growth and production but not as much as I'm used to growing from seedlings that were already started. The peppers were smaller and there were perhaps a few less then usual.
Jalapeno Type- I dried the seeds from store bought jalapeno style peppers and sowed them straight into the garden. The plants looked good and the production was good. I had never planted jalapeno peppers before so I do not have other experience to draw on, just that they produced a decent amount of about three peppers per stalk.
All in all, it was a good experience despite some of the less desirable results. Reviewing these results shows me that I do have a lot to learn but at least some were very successful. I will continue to try to grow free seeds from the produce I buy, not only does it give free, viable fresh seeds, but I can also learn along the way.
I did recently get my hands on some good books on saving seeds. Flipping through them shows that that seed saving is not as easy as one might think. Some variables include humidity, drying time and drying temperature. Some seeds require specific treatment before they are able to germinate, and most require a steady soil temperature to sprout. Some seeds also need to be a certain temperature before they will sprout, as in freezing. There is a lot to learn in the science and miracle of seed saving and food growing. With the time honored tradition of saving seeds you are giving yourself a cushion of security regardless of what the future holds.
It is my hope that my experiments with produce, seed saving and growing will inspire you to try your own. Good luck.
JWR Adds: Be advised that much of the produce found in grocery stores comes from hybridized seed stock. Saving those seeds will sometimes result in poor yields in subsequent generations. For long term survival, open-pollinated non-hybrid seed (often called heirloom seed) is recommended.
From the Kitchen to the Garden, by G.T. - SurvivalBlog.com
Wood Ridge Homestead
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Wood Ridge Homestead in the Shenandoah Valley
Spicy Smoked Yellow Tomato Sauce
Spicy Smoked Yellow Tomato Sauce « Wood Ridge Homestead in the Shenandoah Valley
Cooking With A Rocket Stove
Cooking With A Rocket Stove « Wood Ridge Homestead in the Shenandoah Valley