Thread: BASIC LIST / SUGGESTED ITEMS FOR LONG TERM SURVIVAL

⚡SHTF WINTER TOOLS!!! WORLDS BEST HANDSAW VS BEST CHAINSAW!

⚡SHTF WINTER TOOLS!!! WORLDS BEST HANDSAW VS BEST CHAINSAW!

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Two Ways to Use Your Canned Pork!

Two Ways to Use Your Canned Pork!

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Tomato powder through dehydration

Tomato powder through dehydration

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FULL VIDEO: 300 Days Free Building Farm Life, Build Gate, Grow vegetables | Free Bushcraft



FULL VIDEO: 300 Days Free Building Farm Life, Build Gate, Grow vegetables | Free Bushcraft (youtube.com)

Flood victims PANIC when power, cell towers, food and water ALL FAIL at the same time

Flood victims PANIC when power, cell towers, food and water ALL FAIL at the same time

Flood victims PANIC when power, cell towers, food and water ALL FAIL at the same time - Brighteon.com

BASIC LIST OF SUGGESTED ITEMS FOR LONG TERM SURVIVAL

Some people are saying we should prepare for at least 7 days, but the way things go after a hurricane, tornado, floods, loss of electricity and the fact that these disasters will continue and perhaps even get worse in coming years according to trends, one week is not enough. Some have said 7 years, but that seems too long so do what you can. Be sure to use the older stocked goods first and replace them with new. Otherwise you will end up with all old food you might not even want to eat. Always check canned tomatoes for spoilage, as even in the can they can spoil. Most other foods last a long time.

1. Water stored to last at least 5 days, at one gallon per day per person. (If you buy cases of l/2 litres - you can buy enough to last a couple of months) Recently, people are saying that water in plastic is toxic, so store water in glass if possible.

2. A good canteen and basins to catch rainwater. Also have a good supply of water purification tablets or bleach, or plan to boil your water. The surest way to purify water is to boil it for 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Food, per person, for one year:

Wheat - 300 lbs.

Rice - 100 lbs.

Beans, Peas, Lentils, 50 lbs. each

Honey or Sugar - 60 lbs.

Salt - 3 lbs. (Get 6 lbs to be sure) (See below)

Cayenne Pepper - 1 large can

Herbal Seasonings

Dried Milk - 80 lbs.

Peanut Butter - 50 lbs.

Dried Fruit

Canned food, or dried (ready to mix) food

Oatmeal - 50 lbs.

Alfalfa Seeds - 10 lbs.

Sprouts (see below)

Canned Sardines, tuna, salmon

If you have a baby, include formula and baby food. If you have pets, you will want food for them as well. Store food needs in waterproof containers, capable of also protecting against insects and mice. Use Steel garbage cans or plastic 5 gallon buckets. The vacuum sealed method is also very good. If you are storing nuts or oatmeal, they smell and taste bad after a while, so they will need to be rotated. For all storing of food, the rule is: use up the old and replace with the new.

NOTE; I recommend freezing nuts for storage.

4. Manual grain grinder

5. Medicines - Assemble a standard first aid kit, with a comprehensive first aid book. Also include things for headache, upset stomach, congestion, colds, such as Pepto Bismol, aspirin, Tylenol, Excedrin, disinfectants, prescription medicines; and anything else you use regularly. Include vitamins, apple cider vinegar, honey, garlic, sage tea for colds, mint tea, golden seal, brandy (good as medicine), herbal tinctures, hops, catnip (which helps you sleep), herbs for cooking, including dried garlic and onions, cayenne pepper, cumin, basil, and coriander and salt. After you've been eating rice and beans for a few days, they'll need lots of help to make them taste good.

Also learn about herbal medicines and if you have space, grow some of your own - most are perennials and once you get the plant growing, its yours for as long as you take care of it.

See: http://www.earthmountainview.com for suggestions on herbs and growing your own food.

6. Toothbrushes, baking soda or salt to brush with, a good supply of dental floss (which can be used for other things as well) and another items you need for good tooth care.

7. Extra eye glasses

8. For a camp kitchen you need: camp stove with good supply of fuel (in wooded areas, all you need are rocks and a flat tin or grill), pots and pans, plates and bowls (unbreakable) (you can use Army surplus camp kits) cooking utensils, knife, forks, spoon, spatula, biodegradable dish soap, towels, bucket to carry water, dish pan, matches dipped in wax and stored in waterproof containers.

9. A good tent, sleeping bag for each person, extra blankets, sleeping pads, and ground cloth - and another waterproof tarp to cover your camp gear.

10. Clothing - Have clothing for all weather. Include a good warm coat and sweaters, hat for rain or shine, rain gear, a good pair of hiking boots that will take years to wear out, warm winter underwear, wool socks, summer socks (don't wear socks with holes in them as they cause blisters) (learn to darn socks) work gloves, hats, and whatever else you need for warmth and protection.

11. Hunting equipment. Hunting might be necessary for survival in some situations. Be prepared both with equipment and knowledge of how to use the equipment. First choice of a gun is a .22 caliber rifle. You can kill anything up to a deer with it. Purchase 500 rounds of .22 hollow point bullets. If you are not a good marksman, then get a 30-30 or 30-06 and at least 200 shells. A shotgun comes in handy for shooting things flying or running. The bow and arrow is still one of the best weapons. You will have to practice, and of course, you can never run out of shells. If you want to be unseen and unheard by unfriendly people, this would be a good idea.

12. Fishing equipment. - Get basic equipment. Include assorted sized hooks, fish lines, sinkers, etc. Fishing takes time, but if you are moving toward long-term survival, time is something you may have plenty of.

13. Wood stove. Get one with a secondary burn chamber. It uses less wood and creates less pollution. Get one with a flat top for cooking on.

14. Chain saw, extra gas and oil, spark plugs, chain, etc.

15. Bow saw and a tool to set the teeth with, extra blades.

16. Skill saw (for when you have electricity)

17. Axe, hatchet, files.

18. Spitting maul

19. Flashlights with extra batteries and bulbs; candles; propane, kerosene, or Coleman lantern with plenty of fuel, and extra wicks and mantles.

20. A good pocket knife and a sharpening stone.

21. Hammers, assorted nails, assorted screws, wrench set, pliers, wire cutters, screw drivers, pipe wrench, 200 feet of 1/4 inch nylon rope, duct tape.

22. Shovels, spades, hoes, and rakes with strong teeth

23. Charging system - wind, water, or solar - to pump water and provide electricity

24. Backpack - Waterproof. If you are forced to relocate, it may be all that goes with you.

25. Compass.

26. Up-to-date maps of the area you want to live in. This will show you land and water away from human habitation.

27. A 4 wheel drive vehicle with all the proper tools for maintaining it. Extra parts.

28. Tire chains for snow.

29. Radio. Have more than one. electrical and battery operated. Get a crank operated one. (See C. Crane company for this information) You'll want to know what's going on in the outside world.

30. Soap for laundry and bathing. Also learn how to make your own and have those supplies handy.

31. Natural insect repellent.

32. A mirror. You'll want to see yourself, but you can use it for signaling as well.

33. Extra toilet paper. Also keep old newspapers and telephone directories for emergencies. (Hint: if you need to use old newspaper, crinkle it up and straighten it out several times first -- it's much softer!)

34. Female needs - (Use cloth pads you can wash)

35. Baby diapers. (Use cloth you can wash) Older kids can go bare bottom when necessary. Indians used moss and grass when necessary.

36. A basic sewing kit (needles and threads)

37. Safety pins

38. Swiss Army knife

39. Bobby pins (you can work wonder with these)

40. Pencils and paper

41. Musical instruments (harmonica, flute, guitar) to lift the spirit

42. Crazy glue

43. Patch kit

In the survival sense, think warm clothing, think fleece.

Those fleece throws (the single blankets) are great gifts, roll up nice and compact and are very useful as blankets, capes, padding for sleeping on the ground, tablecloths or even hung up on a leanto to break the wind.

By the time everyone adds their ideas to your list we will all need a U-haul on the back of that 4 wheel drive vehicle. Hey not a bad idea to learn how to build your own trailer, all you need is a spare axle, couple of wheels, a hitch and some wood. Peace - Marguerite

44. Lots of good books to read.

45. .22 ammunition - amount stored should be 5000 rounds, not 500. It is small, inexpensive, and can be used as barter material if need be.

46. .30-30/.30-06 - other calibers to seriously consider are the .308, .270, .243, .223, and 7.62x39. Many people, myself included can't handle the recoil of a .30-06 (and I don't like .30-30). There are more rifles chambered in the calibers I mentioned than I can list, and all are good. It all depends on what you can afford. The amount of ammo one should store should be a minimum 1000 rounds, not 200.

Continued

47. A sturdy, fixed blade hunting knife should always be include. You can find these from Buck, Gerber, SOG, Camillus, Uncle Henry, and many others. I prefer the Camillus Pilot/Survival or Marine Combat knives. These have been made under contract for the US military for about four decades and have stood the test of time. They are also inexpensive ($25 and $35 respectively) so if one is lost or happens to break, you don't get as upset as you would should your Gerber BMF ($240) bite the dust.

48. Many people, myself included, have not been able to master the use of a sharpening stone. But with the use of a sharpening kit, such as those by Lansky, we can bring up a very sharp edge on our knives. Great for use on kitchen cutlery as well.

49. A pocket tool, such as those by Leatherman, Gerber, SOG, et al, are much more versatile than the Swiss Army Knife and their prices are comparable to the more expensive Swiss Army Knives. In the meantime, I will hang on to my SAK until I can afford a Leatherman Super Tool. (I still have a house to run.)

50. 200' to 500' of 550# test Paracord is a great addition to your supplies, especially when the 1/4" nylon cord/rope is too thick or not the right tool for the job.

51. Boiling water may be effective, but it is not the best way to purify water. Boiling removes the oxygen content and causes it to be flat. For EMERGENCY purposes only one can use un-scented household bleach to purify water, but you should use only 1/2 teaspoon per 5 gallons of water (1 tsp should the water be cloudy). The best method is to use HTH dry chlorine (65%), which can be purchased in bulk at stores like WalMart, Target, KMart, etc. (Also a great barter item.) The amount to use is 1/4 teaspoon (0.03 ounce) per 300 gallons for a 0.5 ppm of chlorine.

52. One can also get a complete cookset...cookpots, frying pan, coffee pot, plates, and cups...of good or better quality in the outdoor department of WalMart, Kmart, Target, etc., or a good outdoor supply store that sells camping equipment.

53. One should have two or three pairs of good hiking boots (U.S. issue combat boots are still the best and only cost $60-$80 mail order) in their closet and one dozen pair bootlaces per pair of boots (laces also come in handy for short term temporary uses, too). Should the long-term effect be much longer than anticipated, then the extra boots will be needed. Also a couple pair of good cross-trainers or running shoes would be advisable.

54.You should always have a handful of disposable lighters in addition to matches. They come in quite handy and you don't have to be a smoker to keep them on hand. They are inexpensive and take up very little room.

55. When we packed our food we used food-grade diatomaceous earth for the grains. All grain already has the eggs of insects in it - it's just the natural way. When they hatch out the diatomaceous earth either smothers them because the particles are so tiny or if the larvae is bigger or soft-skinned it dries them up.

I bake my own bread and grind my own flour. In some of the jars where we didn't use diatomaceous there is an occasional weevil and I grind it up - if folks eat animals then a bug or two shouldn't be a problem.

Diatomaceous earth is full of minerals and is a safe, non-toxic way to treat your food. You don't want to breathe it because the particles are so tiny but then, you don't want to inhale flour, either. It's real cheap, too.

We use 1/4 cup for a 5-gallon bucket of grain. We half-fill the bucket, sprinkle 1/2 the dust on, put the lid on, roll the bucket all around, take the lid off, fill the bucket with more grain to the top, add the rest of the dust, roll it around and you're done. You can do it in smaller batches, too. In gallon jars and then pour it into the bucket.

An added step would be to re-open and add a small piece of dry ice to the top. (I like to put it on a piece of broken pottery to keep it from "burning" the grain.) Let the lid rest on top while the dry ice sublimates into gaseous carbon dioxide and displaces bug-breathable air. Then seal tightly.

ALSO: ..I suggest sealing your bags, boxes etc. to keep from getting damp, then freezing them for 3 days..it kills the eggs. I have done this with everything I buy..it works. I have used rice, flour, etc. that is months old (re-stocking as I use). I'm sure it will work for animal feed as well.

You can also drop a couple of Bay leaves in since most bugs hate. Bay leaves are good to use in almost any food storage situation

Another good storage trick for grains and legumes is to use oxygen absorber packs that can be purchased wherever food storage supplies are sold. No oxygen = no living things, and no oxidation of the contents or the container.

To avoid 6 legged critters, vacuum seal your food (see Tilia Foodsaver) and store in 5 gallon plastic buckets with the snap on lids. Or, store food directly in the 5 gallon buckets and pay to have the buckets nitrogen injected. Costs a couple of bucks a bucket. Either of these methods will kill existing critters and prevent future contamination.

Second to vacuum sealing, you can use zip-lock bags. Fill the bag, lower it into a sink full of water until the water is just to the zip- lock. Seal the bag. Remove and dry the bag off. The water pressure pushes a lot of the extraneous gases (air) out of the bag.

Rats can, but won't gnaw into the 5 gallon buckets unless they have a reason to, like the odor of of something yummy on the other side. Properly sealed, a 5 gallon buckets should be odorless.

Rats require 3 things to survive, food, water and shelter. Remove any one of these three things and the rat population disappears.

I have used boric acid effectively for years to keep away roaches, along with Roach Prufe. The last place I was in had ants before I brought in food. One place I had and didn't prepare very many meals, had neither roaches nor ants, but I brought in weevils from the store, and they ate everything resembling a carbohydrate.

56. MAKING DO: . Stock up on kids clothing from the 2nd hand stores, jeans, sweats, warm winter clothing, and if you can't get to a store for any reason, you should have plain white/beige muslin cloth to make longs skirts & shirts once your regular clothing is gone.....but then we will also need to learn how to make clothing out of sheep's wool and grasses. You can make strong sandals out of tires so keep a few around and learning to work leather is a good idea too. There are great leather catalogs you can send for and check them out. Get a couple of old bikes too. Also get extra tubes & stuff to fix them with. Also pick up a few "fake" furs at the used clothing stores to use for covering. Or get real fur, but probably will cost more. You can get wool blankets at the Am Vets & Goodwill stores.

57. RAISING YOUR OWN CHICKENS: Here's a great idea for your meat chickens. You might want to consider feeding your chickens nothing but sprouted wheat if you don't free-range your birds. However, free-ranged chickens and their eggs are healthier to eat. Buy wheat and soak it in a bucket of water overnight. Drain off the water (give it to the chickens) and let the bucket sit for 3 or 4 days. Rinse the wheat twice a day. Once the little root pokes out it can be fed to the chickens and will have so much more vibrational energy (or spark of life) and nutrition than the unsprouted wheat kernel had.

Chickens fed only on unsprouted wheat will dress out to about 8 to 9 pounds each--this sounds incredible but it's really true. If you are going to raise chickens for meat it would be interesting to try this method. Chickens fed the regular way average 5 to 6 pounds on average.

Chapter 3: Preparing Your Basic Survival Stash

* Food Storage
* Water Storage and Purification
* Survival Shelters

If you've given any thought to survival, you know the big three -- food, water and shelter -- are the foundation of any long-term survival plan. If you prepare to provide these three items for yourself and loved ones, you're farther ahead than probably 90 percent of the public.

Many would say water is the most important of the three, but we'll address them in the order above: Food, water and shelter.

Food Storage

You may be able to survive a few weeks or even a month without food, but why would you want to? Without food, you will become weak, susceptible to illnesses, dizzy and unable to perform survival-related tasks. Sure, water may be more critical to short-term survival, but it's much easier for even the unskilled survivalist to find water in the wild (the safety and purity of the water is another story, but we'll tackle that next).

This section will deal with several key areas:

* How much food do you need?
o Why so much food?
o Using and storing traditional, commercial foods
* Rotating foods
o Baking items
* Special "survivalist" foods
* Home-made survival foods
* Hunting and gathering in the wild

How Much Food do you Need?

Here's the short answer: You can never have too much food stored away for hard times.

How much is the minimum for you and your potential survival situation is an answer you'll have to come up with after reviewing the table you developed in Chapter 1. (You did do that exercise, didn't you?)

Will three days of food be enough, as many suggest? Or do you need a year's worth? Captain Dave can't tell you what's best in your situation, but he suggests that two weeks or more is the minimum for anyone in any potential survival situation. One to three months? Now you're talking. A year? Let's hope you never need it. A year may be excessive for most, but hey, better safe than sorry (have you heard that one before?) If you're wondering how you can afford a month's worth of food, see Chapter 7.

Why should you stock up on so much food if the worst you're planning to prepare for is a heavy winter storm? Several reasons:

* It may take a while for store shelves to be replenished. Think back to the heavy storms that hit the East Coast in the winter of 1995-96. 30 inches in cities such as Washington, D.C., and Philadelphia shut the city down for more than a week. And the trucks carrying supplies were stranded on the side of an interstate highway somewhere in the midwest.

* You may be asked to feed friends or neighbors. Think how you'd feel if on the sixth day of the storm you and your family were enjoying a delicious, rich, beef stew while poor old Mrs. Frugal next door was down to a used tea bag and the bread crusts she usually gives the birds? Or what if friends were visiting for the weekend and unable to return home because of the inclement weather, earthquake or other emergency?

* Food rarely goes down in price. What you buy now will be an investment in the future. If you shop carefully over time (see Chapter 7) , you can lay in stores of goods on sale or at warehouse club prices.

* You will be protected from price gouging. Do you really think the last load of milk and bread into the store before the storm hits will be discounted? Shelves are often cleared out right before a blizzard or hurricane is set to hit. And food isn't the only item likely to be in short supply; one grocery chain reported that when storm warnings went out, they sold more rolls of toilet paper than there were people in the city. Batteries, bottled water, candles and other staples are also going to be in short supply (see the next chapter for more on non-food survival items).

* You will be prepared for a crippling blow to our food supply system. As I write this, many are predicting our food supply is tottering on its last legs. Whether its a drought (like we saw in 1996 in Texas and Oklahoma), a wheat blight, the destruction of traditional honey bees necessary for crop fertilization or simply the world's exploding population, they will tell you our food system is falling apart. Captain Dave will let you make up your own mind, but wouldn't a few hundred pounds of red winter wheat and other grains sealed in 5 gallon buckets make you feel better?

This existing food reserve should not include food in your refrigerator or freezer because you cannot count on those items remaining edible for more than a day (fridge) or three (freezer), at most. So half a cow or deer in the freezer is great, but you may have to cook, smoke and/or can it on short notice, should the power be out for a long time.

A quick examination of your cupboards and cabinets will tell you how much you need to add to ensure you have enough food for a week. If you have a few packages of pasta, some cans of vegetables, a box of crackers and a jar of peanut butter, you're halfway there. But if you have a habit of dropping by the deli every time you're hungry, or shopping for the evening meal on your way home from work (as many single, urban dwellers do), you'll need to change your habits and stock up.

Rotation Systems

The main difference between the commercially prepared foods you buy in the grocery store and the specially prepared "survival" foods is the shelf storage. You can't store grocery store items for five to ten years, as you can with specially freeze-dried or sealed foods packed in nitrogen or vacuum sealed. As a result, if you go with a larder full of grocery items, you can't develop your food stash and walk away. You need to rotate your stock, either on an ongoing basis or every two to three months. This will ensure you have fresh food (if you can consider canned and dry food "fresh") and do not waste your food and money.

There are many systems for rotating your stock:

* Captain Dave finds the easiest is to put newly purchase foods at the rear of the shelf, thus ensuring the oldest food, which will have made it's way to the front, will be consumed first.

* You can also number food packages with consecutive numbers (a "one" the first time you bring home spaghetti sauce, a "two" the next, etc.) and eat those with the lowest number first.

* If you store your survival stash in a special location, you'll need to physically remove and replace 20 to 25 percent of it every two months (thus ensuring nothing sits for more than eight or 10 months). The materials you remove should be placed in your kitchen for immediate consumption.

As a general rule, traditional canned foods should be consumed within a year. For cans with expiration dates, such as Campbell's soups, you may find you have 18 months or two years before they expire. But for cans without a date, or with a code that consumers can't translate, mark them with the date purchased and make sure you eat them before a year passes.

Generally, canned foods will not "go bad" over time, unless the can is punctured. But the food will loose its taste, the texture will deteriorate, and the nutritional value drops significantly over time.

If you find you have a case of canned peas, for example, that are nine or 10 months old, simply donate the to a soup kitchen, Boy Scout food drive or similar charity. This will keep them from being wasted and give you a tax deductible donation.

Baking

Simple raw materials for baking, such as flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, oil and shortening, can be assets in a survival situation. With these staple items, you can make everything from pancakes or rolls to breading fresh fish.

For those looking for a simpler answer, mixes for muffins, corn bread and pancakes mean you do not need to add eggs or measure ingredients. These ready-made or pre-mixed ingredients can be a boon. Of course, you may need a Dutch oven or griddle for that stove or fireplace.

For long-term survival storage, honey stores for years and can replace sugar in recipes. Rather than storing flour or meal, purchase the raw grain and a hand mill. Then you can mill your own flour whenever necessary. Red winter wheat, golden wheat, corn and other grains can be purchased in 45-pound lots packed in nitrogen-packed bags and shipped in large plastic pails.

Survival Foods

Storing two to four weeks of "commercial" food isn't too difficult. But when you get beyond that, you really need to look at specialized foods prepared specifically for long-term storage. These generally fall into several categories:

* Vacuum-packed dried and freeze-dried foods
* Nitrogen packed grains and legumes
* Specially prepared and sealed foods such as MRE's (Meals, Ready-to-Eat) with a five-to-ten year shelf life

All offer one main advantage: long storage life. Some, such as MRE's and packages sold to backpackers, are complete meals. This is handy and convenient, but they tend to be expensive on a per-meal basis. Others, such as #10 cans (about a gallon) of dried items, are usually ingredients which can be used to prepare a full meal. These ingredients include everything from macaroni elbows or carrot slices to powdered milk or butter flavor. Your best bet is a combination of both full-meal entrees and bulk items.

As the name implies, MRE's are ideal for a quick, nutritious, easy-to-prepare meal. They are convenient to carry in the car, on a trip or on a hike. They have very long shelf lives (which can be extended by placing a case or two in your spare refrigerator). On the downside, they are very expensive on a per-meal basis and they do not provide as much roughage as you need. (This can lead to digestive problems if you plan to live on them for more than a week or two.)

The sad truth is that store-bought chicken is mushy and tasteless and of course, you get all the hormones and chemicals the chicken ate. When you taste your first home-raised chicken meat you will be in awe. Chickens raised on the sprouted wheat taste even better.

These days, anything you can get that is organic is healthier than anything you buy in a grocery store. Buying at local farm markets is preferable. Always ask if the food is organic before buying.

Even if you don't eat your chickens this idea can be considered for the "after time" when perhaps you might be scrambling for something nutritious to feed your birds.

58. MONEY? What good will money be? Greenback are usually the first thing to become worthless in a sinking society. Gold, silver and gems are what are needed after the governments all collapse.

59 - SALT: Salt is scarce in wet climates away from the ocean. The only natural source in such places is mineral springs. Vegetarian animals need salt and animals like deer and elk and mountain goats will go to a lot of trouble to get it. Porcupines need even more sodium than most in order to survive all the excess potassium they get from eating pine bark.

Thus, to find salt in the wilderness, find out where the animals get it. I once found what seemed to be too many deer trails in a certain area of forest, and after exploring a bit found that they all converged on a mineral spring. This particular spring was not shown on any geological survey map and was pretty much trampled into a mud-wallow by the deer and elk, but in a pinch a person could dig it out and get salty water. Note it is also a good place to get deer and elk, and maybe indian arrow-heads. Of course some mineral springs have poisonous amounts of minerals like arsenic in them too, so you're taking a bit of a gamble with any non-tested mineral water.

60. SPROUTS - Don't overlook sprouting as a great source of food in time to come.
For families with financial constraints buying even very large amounts of seeds to sprout is affordable. You can live entirely on sprouts.

The seeds stay viable for many years and are packed with nutrition and living, vibrating energy for your body. This is a "living" food vs. a dead food. If you have little storage space and few dollars you may want to learn more about sprouting.

Practice now, making and using sprouts. You can do it simply: for alfalfa sprouts (the most common) just use a tablespoon of seeds, soak them in some water in a jar over night. The next day pour off the water. The health food stores have a 3- piece lid kit to screw onto any wide-mouth canning jar. After you pour off the water invert the jar on an angle upside down (I use a little dish to set it in). Rinse those same sprouts twice a day, morning and night. They don't need the sun to sprout.

After 2 or 3 days they will have all sprouted and you can set the jar in a sunny window if you wish to "green" them up for use in salads or eat out of hand. We always drink the rinse water because it's packed with vitamins and minerals. Or use this water to water your plants. Or for your pet's water.

Walton's has a sprout variety pack that's already vacuum packed and has lots of different kinds of sprout seeds. We bought ours back in 1997 and they are still sprouting great.

Some of the bigger seeds will make really big, long sprouts. They taste the best when eaten young, though. Older sprouts tend to taste somewhat bitter. A sprout can actually be eaten anytime the tiny little root appears. We usually wait a few days, though.

It will be fun to learn about sprouts and a great comfort again, if folks want very much to prepare but don't have a lot of money.

61. CONTAINERS - You can get 5 gal. sturdy plastic containers at the bakery shops as well as smaller sizes. Fill EACH one with things such as Medical supplies, clothing, food, ammo, survival books, reading books, Classic books, tools, etc....and don't forget all the family pictures. There is a process where you can put a picture on a piece of metal & it will last for hundreds of years.


http://www.greatdreams.com/basic.htm

13 Survival tips to effectively prepare for biological threats

09/30/2024 // Olivia Cook // 260 Views

Tags: biological threats, biological warfare, biological weapons, bioterrorism, biowar, chaos, Collapse, disaster, emergency preparedness, homesteading, infections, off grid, outbreak, pandemic, panic, Plague, preparedness, prepping, self-defense, SHTF, survival, survivalist, tips



When faced with biological threats – whether from natural outbreaks or bioterrorism – being prepared and knowing how to respond can be crucial for survival. Each type of threat poses unique challenges, but understanding these risks and having a plan can significantly enhance your safety and survival.Biological attacks can involve two main types of agents (pathogens or toxins that can harm animals, crops or humans) – contagious and non-contagious. Some agents, such as anthrax, can survive in the environment for extended periods – increasing the risk of exposure. Notably, many biological attacks may go unrecognized for days, as the incubation period can delay symptoms.
To effectively prepare for biological threats, consider the following survival tips:
Stay informed

Always monitor trusted sources. Regularly check official information channels for updates and guidance during emergencies. Engage with community programs that promote awareness of potential threats. Avoid misinformation; be wary of "rumors" and stick to reliable sources to make informed decisions.
Build a survival stockpile

Regularly monitor and update your essential supplies inventory – food, water, pantry, first aid and medical supplies, hygiene and sanitation, heat and lighting and communications.
Create a safe zone at home

Fortify your home by identifying its weaknesses and designating safe rooms that will reduce exposure risk. Keep a supply kit in your safe room. To minimize air contamination, use plastic sheeting, duct tape and towels. Install high-efficiency particulate air (HEPA) filters in your home to capture biological agents.
Plan and implement quarantine and isolation

If you develop symptoms or have contact with infected individuals, self-isolate immediately. Keep healthy individuals in your home separate from those showing signs of illness – using separate rooms and bathrooms if feasible.
Use personal protective equipment

Keep a reasonable stash of masks and other protective gear. Use N95 or N99 masks as regular surgical or reusable cloth mass may not filter all biological agents effectively. Wear gloves, eye protection and long sleeves when in contact with potentially contaminated surfaces. Use disposable, or easily washable clothing to minimize the spread of contaminants.
Follow decontamination protocols

Maintaining good personal hygiene and practicing proper sanitation helps reduce the risk of infections and diseases that could impact overall health. Regular hand washing, safe food handling, and keeping your living environment clean are essential practices.
Wash hands more frequently, especially after being in public places or touching potentially contaminated items. Regularly clean high-tough surfaces in your home with disinfectants such as bleach solutions or alcohol-based cleaners. (Related: Safe and clean: 8 Non-toxic alternatives to common household cleaning products that contain harmful ingredients.)
Boost your immunity

Healthy lifestyle changes that have a major impact on your overall health and wellness include a balanced diet, daily physical activity and exercising regularly, maintaining healthy body weight, getting adequate quality sleep, getting regular health checkups, and being aware of your family's history.
Be mindful of reducing and managing stress. Engage in relaxation techniques, find activities you enjoy, or do something different that refreshes your routine and energizes your life, socialize and meet new people.
Establish a communication plan

Keep practicing and streamlining your family communication plan that outlines how each of you will remain in touch during emergencies. Ensure everyone knows how to reach each other and keep planning for contingencies. Maintain an updated list of local emergency services, family and trusted friends who can assist in any kind of crisis.
Be proficient in basic survival skills

Enroll in first aid training courses to learn how to treat common injuries and manage health emergencies effectively. Get certified in CPR and other essential skills to be prepared to assist others in critical situations. Volunteer in medical emergency missions for first-hand experience, mentoring and proficiency.
Plan for your pets

Include stockpiling emergency pet essentials. Include pet food, medication, water and a pet first aid kit in your survival stockpile. Create a plan for evacuating your pets, if necessary, including transport options and accommodations.
Practice situational awareness

Stay alert. Be aware of your surroundings and any unusual activities, especially in crowded places. Familiarize yourself and your family with escape routes in public spaces and your home.
Maintain a positive mindset

Mental resilience is key. Focus on a positive attitude to help cope with stress during emergencies and survival situations. Stay connected with family and friends to share experiences and support each other.
Develop a survivor instinct

Cultivate a mindset that prepares you and your family to adapt and respond to challenges. Visualization techniques can help you mentally rehearse potential scenarios Reflect on past emergencies (personal or community or your ancestors') and identify what worked and what didn't to improve future responses.
In the event of a serious biological threat, your goal is to obtain medical aid and minimize exposure. If symptomatic, immediately seek medical treatment at facilities designated by public health officials. Adhere to guidance and instructions from health authorities regarding potential exposure, including quarantine or surveillance.
If you suspect exposure to a contagious disease, such as smallpox), seek vaccination. For non-contagious diseases (such as anthrax) obtain appropriate antibiotics promptly. If there's any doubt about contact with a biological agent, remove contaminated clothing, shower with soap and water and seek medical attention. If feasible, leave affected areas as soon as you are on a treatment regimen, if advised by officials
Being prepared for biological threats is essential for ensuring your safety and that of your loved ones. By having a plan, staying informed, stockpiling essential supplies, creating safe zones, practicing hygiene and sanitation, living healthy choices and honing your emergency response skills, you can enhance your resilience in the face of potential dangers. Timely and informed action can make a significant difference in critical situations.
Watch this video to learn some tips for surviving biological dangers.

This video is from the Daily Videos channel on Brighteon.com.
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Ways to develop mental toughness and a survivor mindset when SHTF.
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Are you THRIVING or SURVIVING? Science reveals your mindset is key.
Sources include:
SimpleFamilyPreparedness.com
OJP.gov
MadSurvivor.com
PreppersWill.com
MyClinicGroup.com
Brighteon.com

13 Survival tips to effectively prepare for biological threats – NaturalNews.com