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Thread: BASIC LIST / SUGGESTED ITEMS FOR LONG TERM SURVIVAL

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  1. #3061
    Senior Member AirborneSapper7's Avatar
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    Craft, Home and Garden Ideas

    No instructions I just posted this for you to use your imagination with a great idea.
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    Craft, Home and Garden Ideas

    No instructions on this I just posted it to give people a chance to see a great idea and use their imagination.
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    Craft, Home and Garden Ideas

    I did not find any directions for this but posted it anyway because it seemed like a neat idea.
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    Craft, Home and Garden Ideas

    The newest camping dessert! Strawberries dipped in marshmallow fluff and then roasted over a campfire.
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    Craft, Home and Garden Ideas

    How to Make a Pebble Mosaic

    Shopping List
    1. Sand and scrap plywood to make a box in which to lay out the mosaic's design. (Or spread the sand on a plastic tarp.)
    2. Mosaic stones. Choose flat pebbles or cobbles in colors you like. We used green and slate black from the Signature Stones collection at Stone Decorative
    3. Paver base
    4. Stone dust
    5. Concrete mix, such as Quikrete.6. Topping mix. Also known as sand mix, it's finer than concrete mix and contains no aggregate. Quikrete and other companies make it. You'll add it like grout between the joints after laying the stones.
    after laying the stones.
    6 Pavers, bricks, or bluestones to surround the mosaic and hold it in place.
    7. Plastic tarp or sheeting

    Tools:
    Spade to dig out the base
    2x4
    2x4s to screed the concrete and hold a tarp in place as the mosaic dries
    garden sprayer
    Garden sprayer or hose with fine-mist attachment
    2 nails and string
    Two large nails and string
    garden spade
    Garden spade
    4x4s
    4x4 to set and level the stones. It should be about the length of the mosaic's radius so that you can work on one small section at a time.
    mallet
    Rubber mallet
    Natural Bristle Brush
    Paint brush to spread the topping mix.

    How To:
    Spread out the stones near your project area. Rinse off dirt and grit, then sort stones of similar color and size into piles or buckets.

    Spread the sand to a depth of 3 inches in a sandbox made from scrap plywood or on a plastic tarp or sheeting. Lay the stones upright in the sand in a pattern and shape you like; the sand will hold the stones in place as you work. The stones should be packed together tightly, with parallel stones touching each other in their middles. Don't lay all the stones parallel, though—varying their direction will keep them from shifting out of place. (We created a double- spiral pattern, with one set of stones laid perpendicular to the other.) When you're happy with your mosaic, take a photo of it and note its size and shape for later

    The mosaic should sit level with or slightly higher than the surrounding ground so that water won't collect on top of it; take this into account when selecting your project site. Dig out an area at least 1 foot larger than your mosaic on all sides to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. (This will ensure proper drainage of the base and create enough space around the mosaic to add edging.) Tamp 6 inches of paver base and a 1-inch layer of stone dust into the excavated area. Pour dry concrete mix into the center of the installation spot, and use a 2x4 to screed the mix to an even 2-inch layer that extends 2 inches beyond the mosaic's footprint on all sides.

    Using a garden sprayer or a hose with a fine-mist attachment, lightly mist the concrete mix until its texture changes from a loose powder to a crumbly, dirtlike consistency.
    For a circular mosaic, tie a large nail to each end of a piece of string cut to the length of the circle's radius. Push one nail into the center of the installation spot, pull the string taut, and draw a circle in the mix with the second nail. Draw a second circle at half the radius for an additional visual guide.

    Tip: One bag of concrete mix will be enough to create a mosaic that's about 10 square feet

    To make the mosaic sturdy, first bury the bottom third of the stones in the concrete mix. (Later, when all the stones are in place, you'll add a finer topping mix between the joints; see step 10.) Starting in the center, use a garden spade to dig a shallow hole in the damp concrete mix. Place the first stone on edge in the hole and pack concrete around it, holding it upright with your fingers.

    Using the spade, dig shallow holes in the concrete mix next to the flat sides of the center stone. Set the second and third stones in place next to the first stone. Again, use your fingers to pack the mix tightly around them.

    Working from the center outward, continue laying stones as described in step 6. The joints between the stones should be tight, and the stones should touch each other in their middles. (It helps to place stones of similar size next to each other and to introduce smaller or larger stones gradually, as your pattern dictates.) Try to keep the height of the stones even as you lay them.

    When you're finished laying a small section, place a 4x4 across it and strike it with a rubber mallet to set and level the stones. (Don't be tempted to substitute a 2x4 here—it may bounce or bow when you strike it.) When the mosaic is complete, lay edging or a field of pavers, bricks, or bluestones around it to hold the pattern together. Fill any large gaps in the mosaic with a bit of extra concrete mix, then mist the mosaic to fully saturate the concrete beneath the stones, and cover it with a plastic tarp. Let cure overnight.

    Uncover the mosaic and make sure the stones are dry. Scatter topping mix onto the stones, working on a small section at a time, and use a paint brush to spread the mix into the joints between stones. Leave a reveal if you like; it should be no more than one-third of the stones' height.

    Tip: The more topping mix you add, the harder the mosaic will set. In high-traffic areas, fill the joints until the mix sits close to or flush with the tops of the stones.

    Lightly mist the topping mix until it's fully saturated. (You can add more mix at this point if the first layer settled too much after you misted it.) Allow the mix to absorb the water, then let it cure for 30 to 60 minutes. Use a stiff-bristled brush to dress and shape the joints to your liking.

    Cover the mosaic with the plastic tarp to hold in moisture while it cures. For a harder cure, uncover the mosaic and mist it a few times over the course of a day or two as it begins to set. Full curing may take a couple of weeks, depending on the weather. When it's complete, buff the stones with a damp cloth to remove concrete residue. and your done

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  10. #3070
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    Craft, Home and Garden Ideas

    PVC Sprinkler Water Toy - how smart is this? $10 worth of materials from the hardware store will bring lots of joy this summer.
    Step 1
    Head to your local hardware store and pick up:
    2 ten foot lengths of PVC. (I used 3/4" but feel free to use other sizes, just be sure your fittings are the same dimension)
    3 end caps
    1 threaded hose connector
    2 elbow joints (90 degree)
    2 T connections
    PVC Cement (I skipped on the primer, use this if you want)
    Step 2
    You will need:
    a drill
    1/16 or 3/32 inch drill bits (or other sizes if you're feeling sassy)
    saw (fret saw, hack saw, Sawzall, whatever)
    measuring tape
    pen
    PVC Cement
    Step 3: Start cutting
    Time to cut. You will need the following sections and sizes:
    2 at 5 feet
    1 at 4 feet
    4 at 18 inches
    Cut one of the 10' lengths in half so that you have two 5' sections.
    Then, cut a 4' section from the second one. Cut the remaining 6' section in half and then each of the 3' sections in half.
    Step 4: Start glueing
    Be sure to do your glueing in a well ventilated area.
    Lay your pieces out and get your PVC Cement ready. The glue dries fast so you'll want to just do one piece at a time.
    Start with the feet. Take one of the 18" sections and an end cap. Daub some glue inside the lip of the end cap and around the outside edge of the piece and stick the cap on.
    Repeat this 2 more times for 2 more of the 18" pieces. On the 4th one, attach the threaded hose attachment piece.
    Step 5: More glue - connect the feet
    Now connect the pieces you just glued using the T joins.
    Repeat the process of daubing cement inside the T joins and on the PVC lengths and sticking them together.
    When you're done, you should have 2 pieces as in the picture.
    Step 6: Add the legs
    Next, use your cement and connect the two 5' sections to the feet you just made.
    After that, add the elbows at the top. Be sure the mouths of the elbows are pointing perpendicular to the direction that the feet are running.
    Step 7: Drill some holes
    Put the cap on the PVC Cement for a bit and get your drill out.
    I started out with a 3/32" bit but switched to a 1/16" bit for smaller streams. You can mix and match as you please.
    Take your 4' section of PVC and drill some holes in a fun pattern that will spray water in the air.
    I did 6 small holes (3 clustered on the left & right) on what would become the top that shoot water straight up. Then i did 2 rows of holes slightly offset from what would be straight down, that shoot water toward the front and back of the device.
    You may want to experiment and see what works best. You can do this by not cementing this final piece in and if you don't like it, buy some more PVC and try again.
    Once you have something you like, glue this last piece in and you're done.
    Step 8: The finished product
    Technically, you're supposed to wait several hours for the cement to dry before you try it out. I waited about 10 minutes and then gave in to my curiosity. Didn't seem to matter and the kids love it.-

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