Page 10 of 830 FirstFirst ... 678910111213142060110510 ... LastLast
Results 91 to 100 of 8291
Like Tree205Likes

Thread: BASIC LIST / SUGGESTED ITEMS FOR LONG TERM SURVIVAL

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 4 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 4 guests)

  1. #91
    Senior Member AirborneSapper7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South West Florida (Behind friendly lines but still in Occupied Territory)
    Posts
    117,696
    Last edited by AirborneSapper7; 01-31-2012 at 09:47 PM.
    Join our efforts to Secure America's Borders and End Illegal Immigration by Joining ALIPAC's E-Mail Alerts network (CLICK HERE)

  2. #92
    Senior Member AirborneSapper7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South West Florida (Behind friendly lines but still in Occupied Territory)
    Posts
    117,696
    The Complete Outdoorsman Handbook

    http://www.scribd.com/doc/5368885/The-C ... n-Handbook
    Last edited by AirborneSapper7; 01-31-2012 at 09:47 PM.
    Join our efforts to Secure America's Borders and End Illegal Immigration by Joining ALIPAC's E-Mail Alerts network (CLICK HERE)

  3. #93
    Senior Member AirborneSapper7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South West Florida (Behind friendly lines but still in Occupied Territory)
    Posts
    117,696
    FM 21-76 US ARMY SURVIVAL MANUAL

    This manual can either be viewed online or it can be saved to your hard drive. File size of each chapter are in parenthesis. To view online, click on the chapter links below. To download to your hard drive, right click on the chapter link, select SAVE TARGET AS in the menu and provide a directory and file name.

    Get Free Acrobat
    (PDF file) Reader

    NOTE: The newer June 1999 vesion of this survival manual, FM 21-76-1, is available on ETS (click here).

    NOTE: The latest updated and revised U.S. Military Survival Manual, renumbered under the latest U.S. Military Field Manual numbering system to FM 3-05.70, is available on ETS (click here).

    http://www.equipped.com/fm21-76.htm
    Last edited by AirborneSapper7; 10-27-2014 at 08:32 PM.
    Join our efforts to Secure America's Borders and End Illegal Immigration by Joining ALIPAC's E-Mail Alerts network (CLICK HERE)

  4. #94
    Senior Member AirborneSapper7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South West Florida (Behind friendly lines but still in Occupied Territory)
    Posts
    117,696
    How to make an effective bicycle generator

    Amp Meter
    Put an amp meter (from a car or another source) in series with the alternator. This allows the person pedaling to see how much output is produced.

    Front Wheel
    Take the front wheel (tire, rim and spokes assembly) off and mount the remaining yoke on a stable platform made of wood. Use the same bolt holes that held the wheel on.

    Rear Wheel
    Raise the rear wheel about 1"-2" above the platform so that the rear wheel turns freely.

    Bolt this to the frame of the bike about 3"-6" in front of the back axle. This allows 2 support pipes on each side to bolt or strap it to. Could use 2" x 4" wood for the front and back supports. Use triangle supports cut from plywood or any other wood to make it stable (side to side motion). If needed carefully cut a notch in the back right wood support, so
    that the chain, and cables have plenty of clearance.

    Belt
    Purchase a V-belt or V-ribbed belt big enough to go over the alternator and back rim. I have found it easier to find the Serpentine or 5, 6, or 8 V-ribbed flat belts in the lengths needed. A 5 ribbed belt is 45/64" wide. A 6 ribbed belt is 27/32" wide. A 8 ribbed belt is 1" and 1/8" wide. These are more expensive and cost about twice as much as the 11MM or 15MM wide single V-belts. However, they should last longer and will transfer more
    power. Also the alternators that use these have smaller diameter pulleys. Which is an advantage. Flat belts should work better on the bare bicycle rim. They would be less likely to turn over.

    Alternator
    The alternators that use flat belts are more expensive, deliver more amperage and typically have an internal voltage regulator. The older alternators have the voltage regulator separate and are a lot less to purchase. Typically local rebuilt prices are estimated to be $20-$40 for the older 60 amp (Ford, GM in the 1970's) type and $110 to $170 for the newer 70 amp and higher amperage. All of these types from time to time can be picked up at yard or garage sales.

    Mounting
    Mount the alternator on a peace of wood that is hinged (door hinge) to the platform (plywood, plank, etc.). This would be behind the back wheel. The weight of the alternator helps to give it belt tension. A spring could be attached to add more belt tension if needed.

    The result would take no welding, and no great modification of the bicycle, so that if you wanted to unbolt it and put the back tire and front wheel back on you could still ride the bike. It does take wood and a long
    enough belt.

    Troubled Times: Assembly

    http://www.zetatalk3.com/energy/tengy05g.htm
    Last edited by AirborneSapper7; 01-31-2012 at 09:56 PM.
    Join our efforts to Secure America's Borders and End Illegal Immigration by Joining ALIPAC's E-Mail Alerts network (CLICK HERE)

  5. #95
    Senior Member AirborneSapper7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South West Florida (Behind friendly lines but still in Occupied Territory)
    Posts
    117,696
    Meat Smoking

    Lump Charcoal
    Lump charcoal is just one of several ways to produce the heat you need to do typical meat smoking. It isn't intended to be the main source of smoke flavouring although it does add it's own characteristics to the overall flavour of the meat you are smoking. As a fuel source, it is effective, relatively cheap, and depending on where you live, relatively available.

    What is Lump Charcoal?
    Essentially lump charcoal is the end result of very slowly burning wood in a very low oxygen environment. Depending on the method used to produce the charcoal, it can take several weeks for the process to complete. During this process, most of the moisture, and impurities in the wood are burnt off, and what is left behind is a very light, high quality carbon. This means that there are very few chemicals released during the burn.

    Advantages of Lump Charcoal
    Lump charcoal burns very evenly it produces very little soot/smoke,
    it produces very little ash. Lump charcoal responds well to adjustments in oxygen levels while it burns. Add or remove oxygen and the fire will adjust fairly quickly.

    Disadvantages of Lump Charcoal
    it burns hotter and faster than briquettes
    it isn't available everywhere

    Using lump charcoal
    Using lump charcoal isn't all that different from briquettes, but here are a couple of things to keep in mind:

    be sure to use a firepit with a grate for the ash to fall through

    Use a chimney to light the lump charcoal (Do NOT use lighter fluids - they tend to soak into the charcoal end release bad flavours into your smoked meat).

    put lit charcoal into the firepit and add in another layer of lump charcoal around/over them

    monitor the temperature of your smoker, and add more lump charcoal as needed to maintain your proper smoking temperatures

    NOTE: If you haven't used one, you really need to try this charcoal chimney , it works a treat to get your smoker to full burn in 15-20 minutes.

    Happy smoking

    http://www.meat-smoking.com/
    Last edited by AirborneSapper7; 01-31-2012 at 09:57 PM.
    Join our efforts to Secure America's Borders and End Illegal Immigration by Joining ALIPAC's E-Mail Alerts network (CLICK HERE)

  6. #96
    Senior Member AirborneSapper7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South West Florida (Behind friendly lines but still in Occupied Territory)
    Posts
    117,696
    How To Smoke Wild Boar Meat

    There are many different opinions on how to properly smoke meat. This is what has worked in my experience, but there are certainly other successful methods. Experiment and have fun.
    Working muscles (shoulders, ribs and legs) benefit most from long slow cooking methods like smoking or braising.
    The basic issues to control when smoking meat are:
    1. Maintain a low cooking temperature
    2. Maximize moisture retention in the meat.
    Low Cooking Temperature
    I keep my cooking temperature around 200°F - 225°F. The goal is to slowly raise the internal temperature of the meat to 180°F and then hold it there for about an hour. “Slow and low” is the mantra. Cooking time will be about 1.5 – 2 hours per pound of meat, but can vary based on thickness and whether or not it’s bone-in or bone-out.
    Many recipes will tell you to pull the meat when it reaches an internal temperature of 190°F or even 200°F. That advice works because it takes about an hour for a modest size piece of meat to increase from 180°F to 190°F. I would not recommend going much higher than that for very long because you begin to lose moisture in the form of steam.
    Lower cooking temperatures of 180°F - 200°F can be used to great success, but the cooking time will be much longer. Cooking at temperatures above 250°F is not recommended because the meat cooks too quickly causing increased moisture loss and does not allow ample time for the collagen to break down (it makes for dry, tough meat).
    Why 180°F internal temperature?
    Meat contains muscle fibers and connective tissue (collagen). It is the collagen that makes the working cuts “tough and chewy” when not properly cooked. Collagen does not break down into liquid gelatin until it reaches 180°F. You must break down that collagen by getting the internal temperature to at least 180°F and stay there for about 1 hour. Once you’ve broken down the collagen you will have fork tender meat.
    Moisture Retention
    Moisture retention is especially important when smoking wild game meats because they are typically much leaner than other meats.
    Brining – Moisture can be added to the meat prior to cooking by brining it. Moisture will still cook out of your meat, but since you’re starting with more moisture the end result will be juicier. A basic brine recipe is 1 cup of table salt per 1 gallon of water. Subtle flavorings can be infused into the meat by including sugar (1/2 cup per 1 gallon of water), garlic cloves, onions, bay leaves, peppercorns, herbs, or just about anything else. However, the primary purpose of brining is to increase the moisture content of the meat prior to cooking. Stir the salt into the water until it dissolves. For large quantities it may be necessary to heat the water to make the salt dissolve. (If you do heat the brine it must be cooled off again prior to adding the meat.) Add the meat and allow it soak for several hours in the refrigerator. For shoulders and legs (2 - 6 lb pieces) soaking overnight is just right. When the soak is finished remove the meat from the brine, briefly rinse it under cold water and then pat dry. Add your rub/spices and you’re ready to cook.
    Injecting – Some inject their meat with liquid and spices prior to cooking. Like brining, this increases the moisture content prior to cooking so there will be more moisture left in the meat when it is finished.
    Basting – Basting is done by periodically coating the meat with liquid to add moisture and flavor as it cooks. Just about any liquid will do as long as it is low in sugar. Sugar burns quickly so only add glazes and BBQ sauces (which are loaded with sugar) during the last 20 minutes of cooking and only long enough from them to firm up.
    Barding – Covering the meat with fatty bacon or other fats while it cooks is another technique. This is typically used on very lean meats that lack sufficient natural fat so the bacon acts as a substitute. This is a great way to add fat and moisture during the cooking process, but I also find that you end up tasting bacon more than the meat.
    Wrapping – Once the meat has smoked for a few hours and absorbed a sufficient quantity of smoke flavor the meat can be tightly wrapped in foil. This wrap will reduce moisture evaporation into the open air and keep the juices close to the meat (acting more like a braise than BBQ). It’s also a great way to capture the juices for use in a sauce. If you want a crispy exterior (a “bark”) then don’t use a foil wrap and cook a little longer. If you want some insurance on getting a tender, moist final product then use the wrap.
    Smoke and Wood
    Wood Choice – Just about any hardwood will do. Oak and hickory are some of the most popular and most commonly available. Mesquite, maple and fruitwoods can add a sweetness to the meat, but don’t overdo it. Herb woods like basil, rosemary and thyme can be used in small quantities to add a deeper flavor profile. Avoid softwoods (evergreen trees) because the high resin levels will give your meat an unpleasant taste.
    Smoke Ring – The “smoke ring” is a reddish/pink coloration just under the surface of the meat. It’s formed by a chemical reaction between the nitrogen dioxide in the smoke and the myoglobin in meat (which creates nitric acid and colors the meat). A good smoke ring is prized in BBQ because it usually indicates that the meat was successfully cooked slowly at a low temperature. The smoke ring gradually forms until the meat (just under the surface) reaches 140°F, then the formation stops. The thickness of your smoke ring depends on how long it takes for the meat to reach this temperature. Knowing how a smoke ring forms gives us two practical applications:
    1. To maximize your smoke ring take the meat directly from the refrigerator to the cooker. Conventional wisdom instructs you to bring the meat to room temperature before cooking, but starting straight from a cooler temperature will give your meat more time to develop a smoke ring.
    2. Since smoke ring formation stops at 140°F you only need to worry about generating smoke for the first 4 hours of cooking (roughly). After that the meat will not be absorbing any more smoke flavor or coloring. After 4 hours, just concentrate on keeping a steady low temperature until the meat is done.
    The Oven Option
    Not everyone is blessed with the time, space, and/or patience to play with a smoker. Take heart - you can still get good results with an oven.
    Heat your oven to 200°F - 225°F. Wrap the meat in foil. Put it in the oven until done as described above. About 1.5 - 2 hours per pound.
    If you want smoke flavor use your smoker/BBQ pit for the first 1 - 2 hours to infuse some smoke flavor into the meat. Then finish the cooking in the oven. If you don't have a smoker or don't want to bother with it - skip this step. It will still be good.

    http://www.brokenarrowranch.com/Reci...ps-Smoking.htm
    Last edited by AirborneSapper7; 01-31-2012 at 09:58 PM.
    Join our efforts to Secure America's Borders and End Illegal Immigration by Joining ALIPAC's E-Mail Alerts network (CLICK HERE)

  7. #97
    Senior Member AirborneSapper7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South West Florida (Behind friendly lines but still in Occupied Territory)
    Posts
    117,696
    Meat and Food Smokers


    What is hot smoking?
    What is a meat and food smoker?
    How to build a meat and food smoker?
    How does a meat and food smoker work?
    How to smoke meat and other food?
    These are the questions this page will answer.

    What is a meat smoker?

    A meat smoker is a device that imparts the smoked flavor of wood into the meat. A barbecue grill is the most common. However, the gas barbecue grills, electric barbecue grills and charcoal barbecue grills of today don’t do much to smoke meat because they don’t use real wood smoke in cooking. The idea is the same if the wood smoke were present. A meat smoker cooks meat slowly while wood smoke surrounds the meat. The flavor of the wood begins to penetrate the meat giving it a great and unique barbecue flavor. The penetrating of the wood smoke also helps cure the meat as in beef jerky. The difference between a meat smoker and barbecue grill of today is that a meat smoker cooks meat over smoking wood. Any barbecue grill can be used as a meat smoker by attaching a SmokePistol or GrillKicker™ to the barbecue grill and cooking the meat on very low heat.

    How to build a meat smoker?
    How to make a smoker is simple. Basically, a meat smoker is nothing more than a box. An insulated box would be better. A meat smoker can be made out of metal, wood or even cardboard especially for cold smoking cheese. This is because to smoke meat you cook it at a low temperature, approximately 220? F. Therefore, you don’t have the problem with the meat smoker burning up as long as your heat source is not too hot. The best heat source for your meat smoker is an electric element. That is because it is very controllable and constant. When smoking meat you should keep the temperature constant and that is why it helps to have an insulated box for the meat smoker. The next thing you need is a moisture source. When smoking meat you should keep the meat you are smoking moist. Basting helps but causes the cooking temperature to drop, so placing a pan of water inside the meat smoker will help keep the meat moist while smoking. This pan of water should be between the heat source and the meat racks but not too close to the heat. You don’t want to boil the water because you will have steamed meat instead of smoke meat. The racks for holding the meat while smoking, can be barbecue grill racks, barbecue skewers, or wire mesh. The meat can be smoked while laying on the racks or hanging inside the meat smoker. The last and most important thing you need for you meat smoker is a source of wood smoke. The SmokePistol and GrillKicker™ have been designed for this purpose. They are both designed to deliver the constant stream of real wood smoke necessary for smoking meat. The SmokePistol will deliver a constant stream of real wood smoke to your meat smoker for about 4 hours on a single cartridge and the cartridges can be purchased in 9 of the right wood flavors.

    How does a meat smoker work?
    So how does a meat smoker work? Very simply, what a meat smoker does is to cook meat very slowly in a moist smoky environment. As the meat cooks, the smoke inside the meat smoker the smoke from the wood covers the meat and seasons the outside of the meat. As the temperature of the meat increases the meat cooks and the seasoning deposited on the outside of the meat from the wood smoke is absorbed into the meat giving it the great barbecue flavor.

    How to smoke meat and other food?
    The SmokePistol and GrillKicker™ have made smoking meats and other food very easy.
    Smoking food is divided into two categories, hot and cold smoking
    . Traditionally, hot smoking, which is also referred to as barbecuing has been accomplished by cooking food over burning wood. The burning of the wood creates both the heat necessary for cooking and the smoke from the wood creates the flavor. With the mass migrations of people into the cities the art of cooking over wood was lost. The wood was replaced with charcoal because it was lighter in weight and then charcoal was replaced with gas and electric. Neither charcoal, gas or electric provide any flavor to the cooked meat or other food. The SmokePistol and GrillKicker™ have brought this back by making a source of smoke quick, easy, neat and convenient and when used with a heat source like charcoal, propane or electric the real barbecue flavor is back.
    The SmokePistol and GrillKicker™ can also be used for cold smoking. Cold smoking is the placing of meat or other food into a smoky environment for an extended period of time, 2 - 12 hours, without heat. The food is flavored by the smoke but not cooked. Smoked bacon, sausage and smoked cheese are some examples. For further details on hot and cold smoking please see our Smoked Favorites page.

    http://www.smokepistol.com/meatsmoker.html
    Last edited by AirborneSapper7; 01-31-2012 at 10:02 PM.
    Join our efforts to Secure America's Borders and End Illegal Immigration by Joining ALIPAC's E-Mail Alerts network (CLICK HERE)

  8. #98
    Senior Member AirborneSapper7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South West Florida (Behind friendly lines but still in Occupied Territory)
    Posts
    117,696
    TRAPPING WILD BOAR

    INTRODUCTION

    The most valuable tips I can give someone who really needs or wants to trap hogs is this. Trapping requires time, money, dedication and equipment to be really be successful ( 4 wheelers, chain saws, weed eaters,custom trailers for the 4 wheeler, feed trough, water trough, and the list goes on). I have my own welding shop and I am an accomplished welder.

    Being able to build these fancy gadgets and not pay to have them designed and built is an advantage. So,, for those interested I will do my best to explain these gadgets and ways I have found to trap more hogs.
    # A trapper, in most any situation, who sets a trap will generally scare the hogs out of the area for a period of time. How long this time may be is dependent on the population and education of the hogs in that area.
    I have, on rare occasions, caught hogs the first night but in most situations a trapper should expect the hogs to stay out of the area for a while. In some cases, depending on the population, they may not return for months or not at all. That is why I encourage extensive scouting to make sure that the sign in the area indicate an existence for at least one year. (if the trails are worn deep and used every night then I would consider it worth trying) (if there is hog rooting but no indication of a regularly used trail I would be reluctant to go to the trouble of erecting a large or permanent trap unless crop damage was occurring) You best bet would be to try and simply shoot'em or scare'm off to begin with. If you need some assistance I CAN HELP. Feel free to e-mail me for assistance kevin@texasboars.com

    The first thing I would do is look for well worn trails and other sign discussed in the SIGN AND HABBITS PUBLICATION. When all of the right sign is present I would then be convinced a trap will work.

    The signs to look for would be a heavy trail that is used on a regular basis. There are established wallows in the area and rubs which are used regularly. Woods that are large enough to hold multiple sonders that frequent the area. Look for a trail coming from dense woods and under growth leading out to feeding areas such as pastures or crop fields (the trail can lead anywhere). It is very important that the trail exist.

    START BUILDING YOUR TRAP

    CATTLE PANELS OR SHEEP PANELS WILL BE NEEDED
    To know how many cattle panels you might need here are some different size traps and the panels it takes to make them. Pay attention cause I'm trying to be brief. I also describe how to DIVIDE and USE each panel in this section

    Traps made of cattle panels will be 4' high and require at top.
    Sheep panels 5' high are OK with out a top. The sheep panels I refer to are 20' long and 5' high with squares that are 4"x4" (they may be called something different elsewhere). Sheep panels are preferred but are also more expensive. They can hold the smaller pigs and the large ones too. They are tall enough that MOST hogs can't jump out and the injury to the hogs are not as common. These panels are also stronger.

    REGULAR CATTLE PANELS are generally half the price of sheep panels. They have larger holes and allow smaller pigs to escape, require a top, injure more hogs in the mouth area and and the panels are damaged easier.

    When using cattle panels which is the most common I would use at least two panels. This would make a trap 8'x12' (96 sq ft). One panel would make a trap only 5'x5' (25sq ft).

    WITH 2 PANELS you can make a trap 4'x8' USING ONE PANEL for the two sides, by cutting it in half. Then make the TOP and TWO ENDS by first CUTTING A PANEL IN HALF and then CUTTING ONE OF THOSE HALVES INTO AGAIN.

    With 5 panels you can make a trap 8'x16'. For the TWO 8' ENDS (one will be a door) CUT A PANEL IN HALF. Then USE THE REMAINING FOUR PANELS for the TWO SIDES AND THE TOP.

    Creative thinking can result in traps larger or smaller. The larger a trap is the less likely a hog will try to jump out and the more likely you are to have multiple catches. I have traps made of 4' high panels that are approximately 100'x100' and trapped very large hogs and many at a time. None have jumped out because there is room to run.

    TEE POST ("T"POST) as well as a driver to knock them in the ground. 4 "T"post will need to be placed along each full length panel or a T post every 4 or 5 feet. Strong Wire will be needed to tie it all together on-site. Maybe a few other things but that is the basics.

    HOW TO BUILD WILD HOG TRAPS If further information is needed.

    MAKING TRAP DOORS
    HOW TO BUILD A WILD HOG TRAP (FREE VERSION) This FREE release is an updated version of the early Power Point Presentation! YOU CAN NOW View the presentation on-line!

    The doors are really simple but explaining them may be difficult for me.
    Because of the e-mail requests I will jump right into the trip mechanism of a Guillotine Trap Door.



    THE TRIP MECHANISM is simple but requires some tools to build. It is hinged onto the inside frame of the trap. A light trip wire (light picture wire is cheap and works the best) is attached to it and is run through the trap where the hogs will hit it. As you can see when the wire is hit it will pull the latch and release the door.

    The two hinge points are important for the latch to work at its best. If the top hinge shown on the diagram is not used on the latch it will impede the operation of the latch. A horizontal latch may also be used (below).



    It requires only one hinge point (works better with 2) and is mounted on top of the trap frame. A horizontal mechanism is quicker and simpler to build if a builder does not have the tools to work with.

    The door is simply placed in a set of slides that allow it to fall. The slides can be angle iron or channel iron as shown in the diagram below. Deep Channel Iron is the best

    tip When trip wires are set, make them high enough that coons are smaller hogs won't hit the wire. I like two set mine about 2' high. (if a smaller hog trips the door the larger hogs outside the trap may get educated and never come back) The baby hogs are not educated and less cautious so they will go in first most of the time. This will increase the odds of multiple catches.

    As I mentioned earlier it is a must, that a catch be placed above the closed door. Hogs can raise these doors no matter how heavy they are allowing others to escape. In the diagram below is shown a simple catch made out of 1\2" wide x 1/8" thick x 18" long flat steel. This will be springy enough for it to spring through an opening in the slides over the door frame keeping it closed. This is shown in in the diagram of an complete trap door below.



    http://www.texasboars.com/trapping/traps.html
    Last edited by AirborneSapper7; 01-31-2012 at 10:03 PM.
    Join our efforts to Secure America's Borders and End Illegal Immigration by Joining ALIPAC's E-Mail Alerts network (CLICK HERE)

  9. #99
    Senior Member AirborneSapper7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South West Florida (Behind friendly lines but still in Occupied Territory)
    Posts
    117,696


    Know your state laws
    Last edited by AirborneSapper7; 02-19-2012 at 05:13 AM.
    Join our efforts to Secure America's Borders and End Illegal Immigration by Joining ALIPAC's E-Mail Alerts network (CLICK HERE)

  10. #100
    Senior Member AirborneSapper7's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    South West Florida (Behind friendly lines but still in Occupied Territory)
    Posts
    117,696
    Hog Trap owner interview and product demonstration.

    Last edited by AirborneSapper7; 02-19-2012 at 05:14 AM.
    Join our efforts to Secure America's Borders and End Illegal Immigration by Joining ALIPAC's E-Mail Alerts network (CLICK HERE)

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •