Thread: BASIC LIST / SUGGESTED ITEMS FOR LONG TERM SURVIVAL

The Virtual Wild Mushroom Field Guide

http://ediblewildmushrooms.com/

Welcome to the Forager's Wild Food Cookbook

Featured Wild Mushroom Recipes

~ Homemade Pasta With Morel Mushroom Sauce
~ Salmon with Black Trumpet and Leek Sauce
~ Souphet! One of the wildest, wild mushroom recipes you'll ever see!!!
~ Maitake (AKA Hen of the Woods) Recipes from The Forager

Recipes from back issues of the CNYMS Newsletter (The Central New York Mycological Society)

Welcome to the Forager's Wild Food Cookbook

Featured Wild Mushroom Recipes
Homemade Pasta With Morel Mushroom Sauce	Salmon with Black Trumpet and Leek Sauce
Souphet! One of the wildest, wild mushroom recipes you'll ever see!!!Maitake (AKA Hen of the Woods) Recipes from The Forager
Recipes from back issues of the CNYMS Newsletter (The Central New York Mycological Society)Recipe of the month: Deviled Morels Past Recipes of the month:Creamed Morels and Potatoes Fresh Morels in Caraway Sauce Morel Soup French Onion and Morel Soup Hen of the Woods Salad Calabrese Mushroom Chili Shiitake and Pea Pods Salmon with Black Trumpets and Horseradish Sauce Linguine with Chanterelles and Leeks Char-grilled Field Mushroom Avocado, and Chicken Salad Monkey's Head Fungus Chicken and Pea Soup Puffball Soup Puffball Escargots Grilled Oyster Mushroom Oyster Mushrooms Mornay Fairy Ring Mushrooms with Wild Asparagus Parsley, Lemon and Garlic Mushrooms on Toast Hummus and Herb Stuffed Mushrooms Pheasant's Back Jambalaya Orange Roughy with PlatterfulsMushroom Cookbooks Online

http://theforagerpress.com/fieldguid...es/recipes.htm

FM 3-97.61 (TC 90-6-1) Field Manual
No. 3-97.61 Headquarters
Department of the Army
Washington, DC, 26 August 2002

FM 3-97.61
MILITARY MOUNTAINEERING
All links viewable at the link below

Table of Contents

COVER
PREFACE
CHAPTER 1. MOUNTAIN TERRAIN, WEATHER, AND HAZARDS

Section I. Mountain Terrain
1-1. Definition
1-2. Composition
1-3. Rock and Slope Types
1-4. Rock Classifications
1-5. Mountain Building
1-6. Route Classification
1-7. Cross-Country Movement
1-8. Cover and Concealment
1-9. Observation
1-10. Fields of Fire

Section II. Mountain Weather
1-11. Considerations for Planning
1-12. Mountain Air
1-13. Weather Characteristics
1-14. Wind
1-15. Humidity
1-16. Cloud Formation
1-17. Types of Clouds
1-18. Fronts
1-19. Temperature
1-20. Weather Forecasting
1-21. Recording Data
Section III. Mountain Hazards
1-22. Subjective Hazards
1-23. Objective Hazards
1-24. Weather Hazards
1-25. Avalanche Hazards

CHAPTER 2. MOUNTAIN LIVING

Section I. Survival
2-1. Water Supply
2-2. Nutrition
2-3. Personal Hygiene and Sanitation
Section II. Acclimatization and Conditioning
2-4. Symptoms and Adjustments
2-5. Physical and Psychological Conditioning

Section III. Medical Considerations
2-6. Illness and Injury
2-7. Treatment and Evacuation
2-8. Solar Injuries
2-9. Cold-Weather Injuries
2-10. Heat Injuries
2-11. Acute Mountain Sickness
2-12. Chronic Mountain Sickness
2-13. Understanding High-Altitude Illnesses
2-14. High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema
2-15. High-Altitude Cerebral Edema
2-16. Hydration in HAPE and HACE

CHAPTER 3. MOUNTAINEERING EQUIPMENT

Section I. Equipment Description and Maintenance
3-1. Footwear
3-2. Clothing
3-3. Climbing Software
3-4. Climbing Hardware
3-5. Snow and Ice Climbing Hardware
3-6. Sustainability Equipment
Section II. Equipment Packing
3-7. Choice of Equipment
3-8. Tips on Packing

CHAPTER 4. ROPE MANAGEMENT AND KNOTS

Section I. Preparation, Care and Maintenance, Inspection, Terminology
4-1. Preparation
4-2. Care and Maintenance
4-3. Inspection
4-4. Terminology
Section II. Coiling, Carrying, Throwing
4-5. Coiling and Carrying the Rope
4-6. Throwing the Rope
Section III. Knots
4-7. Square Knot
4-8. Fisherman's Knot
4-9. Double Fisherman's Knot
4-10. Figure-Eight Bend
4-11 Water Knot
4-12. Bowline
4-13. Round Turn and Two Half Hitches
4-14. Figure-Eight Retrace (Rerouted Figure-Eight)
4-15. Clove Hitch
4-16. Wireman's Knot
4-17. Directional Figure-Eight
4-18. Bowline-on-a-Bight (Two-Loop Bowline)
4-19. Two-Loop Figure-Eight
4-20. Figure-Eight Loop (Figure-Eight-on-a-Bight)
4-21. Prusik Knot
4-22. Bachman Knot
4-23. Bowline-on-a-Coil
4-24. Three-Loop Bowline
4-25. Figure-Eight Slip Knot
4-26. Transport Knot (Overhand Slip Knot/Mule Knot)
4-27. Kleimhiest Knot
4-28. Frost Knot
4-29. Girth Hitch
4-30. Munter Hitch
4-31. Rappel Seat
4-32. Guarde Knot

CHAPTER 5. ANCHORS

Section I. Natural Anchors
5-1. Trees
5-2. Boulders
5-3. Chockstones
5-4. Rock Projections
5-5. Tunnels and Arches
5-6. Bushes and Shrubs
5-7. Slinging Techniques
Section II. Anchoring With the Rope
5-8. Rope Anchor
5-9. Tensionless Anchor
Section III. Artificial Anchors
5-10. Deadman
5-11. Pitons
5-12. Chocks
5-13. Spring-Loaded Camming Device
5-14. Bolts
5-15. Equalizing Anchors

CHAPTER 6. CLIMBING

Section I. Climbing Fundamentals
6-1. Route Selection
6-2. Terrain Selection for Training
6-3. Preparation
6-4. Spotting
6-5. Climbing Technique
6-6. Safety Precautions
6-7. Margin of Safety
Section II. Use of Holds
6-8. Climbing With the Feet
6-9. Using the Hands
6-10. Combination Techniques
Section III. Roped Climbing
6-11. Tying-in to the Climbing Rope
6-12. Presewn Harnesses
6-13. Improvised Harnesses
Section IV. Belay Techniques
6-14. Procedure for Managing the Rope
6-15. Choosing a Belay Technique
6-16. Establishing a Belay
6-17. Setting Up a Belay
6-18. Top-Rope Belay
Section V. Climbing Commands
6-19. Verbal Commands
6-20. Rope Tug Commands
Section VI. Roped Climbing Methods
6-21. Top-Roped Climbing
6-22. Lead Climbing
6-23. Aid Climbing
6-24. Three-Man Climbing Team

CHAPTER 7. ROPE INSTALLATIONS

Section I. Fixed Rope
7-1. Installation
7-2. Utilization
7-3. Retrieval
7-4. Fixed Rope With Intermediate Anchors
Section II. Rappelling
7-5. Selection of a Rappel Point
7-6. Installation of the Rappel Point
7-7. Operation of the Rappel Point
7-8. Recovery of the Rappel Point
7-9. Types of Rappels
Section III. One-Rope Bridge
7-10. Site Selection
7-11. Installation Using Transport Tightening System
7-12. Installation Using Z-Pulley Tightening System
7-13. Utilization
7-14. Hauling Line
7-15. Retrieval
Section IV. Suspension Traverse
7-16. Site Selection
7-17. Installation
7-18. Retrieval
Section V. Vertical Hauling Line
7-19. Site Selection
7-20. Installation
7-21. Retrieval
Section VI. Simple Raising Systems
7-22. Z-Pulley System
7-23. U-Pulley System

CHAPTER 8. MOUNTAIN WALKING TECHNIQUES
8-1. Basic Principles
8-2. Techniques
8-3. Safety Considerations
8-4. Navigation
8-5. Route Planning
8-6. Route Selection

CHAPTER 9 MOUNTAIN STREAM CROSSING
9-1. Reconnaissance
9-2. Preparation of Troops and Equipment
9-3. Individual Crossings
9-4. Team Crossing
9-5. Rope Installations
9-6. Safety
9-7. Swimming

CHAPTER 10. MOVEMENT OVER SNOW AND ICE
10-1. Movement Over Snow
10-2. Movement Over Ice
10-3. Use of Ice Ax and Crampons
10-4. Glissading
10-5. Snow and Ice Anchors
10-6. Roped Climbing on Ice and Snow
10-7. Movement on Glaciers
10-8. Glacier Bivouac Procedures

CHAPTER 11. MOUNTAIN RESCUE AND EVACUATION
11-1. Considerations
11-2. Planning Rescue Operations
11-3. Mass Casualties
11-4. Special Training
11-5. Preparation for Evacuation
11-6. Manual Carries
11-7. Litters
11-8. Rescue Systems
11-9. Low-Angle Evacuation
11-10. High-Angle Evacuation

APPENDIX A. LEVELS OF MILITARY MOUNTAINEERING
APPENDIX B. MEASUREMENT CONVERSION FACTORS
APPENDIX C. AVALANCHE SEARCH AND RESCUE TECHNIQUES
GLOSSARY
REFERENCES
AUTHENTICATION

http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/ ... index.html

One-Rope Bridge

The one-rope bridge is constructed using a static rope. The rope is anchored with an anchor knot on the far side of the obstacle and is tied off at the near end with a tightening system. A one-rope bridge may be built many ways, depending upon the tactical situation and area to be crossed (crossing a gorge above the tree line may require constructing artificial anchors). However, they all share common elements to safely construct and use the bridge: two suitable anchors; good loading and unloading platforms; a rope about 1-meter (waist) high for loading and unloading; a tightening system; and a rope tight enough for ease of crossing. Which side the tightening system is utilized, or whether an anchor knot or retrievable bowline is used, depends on the technique.

Site Selection
A suitable crossing site must have "bombproof" anchors on both the near side and far side. These anchors must be extremely strong due to the amount of tension that will be placed upon them. Natural anchors, such as large trees and solid rock formations, are always preferred. The site must also have suitable loading and off-loading platforms to facilitate safe personnel movement.

Installation Using Transport Tightening System
The transport tightening system provides a mechanical advantage without requiring additional equipment.

a. The rope must first be anchored on the far side of the obstacle. If crossing a stream, the swimmer must be belayed across. If crossing a ravine or gorge, crossing may involve rappelling and a roped climb. Once across, the swimmer/climber will temporarily anchor the installation rope.

b. One man on the near side ties a fixed-loop knot (for example, wireman's, figure-eight slip knot) approximately 3 feet from the near side anchor and places the carabiner into the loop of the knot. The opening gate must be up and away from the loop. If two carabiners are used, the gates will be opposing. At that time, soldiers route the remainder of the rope around the near side anchor point and hook the rope into the carabiner. This system is known as a transport-tightening system (Figure 7-10. The man on the far side pulls the knot out four to six feet from the near anchor.

c. Once the knot has been pulled out, the far side man anchors the rope using a tensionless anchor. The anchor should be waist high.


Figure 7-10. Transport tightening system.

d. A three-man pull team on the near side pulls the slack out of the installation rope. The knot should be close enough to the near side anchor to allow personnel to easily load the installation.

Note: No more than three personnel should be used to tighten the rope. Using more personnel can over-tighten the rope and bring the rope critically close to failure.

e. The rope the can be secured using one of three methods: transport knot (Figure 7-11), round turn around anchor and two half hitches on a bight (Figure 7-12), or a tensionless anchor knot (Figure 7-13).


Figure 7-11. Transport knot


Figure 7-12. Round turn around anchor and two half hitches on a bight.


Figure 7-13. Tensionless anchor knot.

Note: During training, a second static rope may be installed under less tension and alongside the tight rope to increase safety. An individual would clip into both ropes when crossing, thus having a backup in case of failure of the tighter rope.

Installation Using Z-Pulley Tightening System

The Z-pulley tightening system (Figure 7-14) is another method for gaining a mechanical advantage.

a. The rope is brought across the obstacle the same way as discussed in paragraph 7-10.

b. Once across, the far side man anchors the rope.

c. One soldier ties a friction knot (autoblock, web wrap, Kleimheist) with a sling rope onto the bridging rope on the near side bank. Two steel carabiners are inserted with opposing gates into the friction knot.

d. The rope is routed around the near side anchor and through the carabiners, from inside to outside, and is run back to the near side anchor.

e. A second sling rope is tied to the bridge rope and then anchored to the near side anchor. This knot will be used as a progress capture device.


Figure 7-14. Z-pulley tightening system.

f. The three-man pull team on the near side then pulls on the rope, creating a pulley effect that tightens the system. As the rope is pulled tight, one man pushes the friction knot back toward the far side.

g. When the rope is tight, it is tied off with a tensionless anchor knot, transport knot, or round turn around anchor and two half hitches on a bight.

Utilization
The rope bridge can be used to move personnel and equipment over obstacles. There are several methods of accomplishing this.

a. Method of Crossing. If dry crossing is impossible, soldiers will use the rope bridge as a hand line. Preferably, all soldiers will tie a safety line and attach it to the rope installation as they cross. If the soldier must cross with his rucksack, he may wear it over both shoulders, although the preferred method is to place another carabiner into the top of the rucksack frame, attach it to the bridge, and pull the rucksack across. Soldiers will always cross on the downstream side of the installation. If a dry crossing is possible soldiers will use one of three methods: commando crawl, monkey crawl, and Tyrolean traverse.

(1) Commando Crawl (Figure 7-15). The soldier lies on top of the rope with the upstream foot hooked on the rope and the knee bent close to the buttocks; the downstream leg hangs straight to maintain balance. He progresses by pulling with his hands and arms. To recover if he falls over, the soldier hooks one leg and the opposite arm over the rope, and then pushes down with the other hand to regain position.



Figure 7-15. Commando crawl.

Note: Only one man at a time is allowed on the bridge while conducting a commando crawl.

(2) Monkey Crawl (Figure 7-16). The soldier hangs below the rope suspended by his hands with both heels crossed over the rope. He pulls with his hands and arms, and pushes with his feet to make progress.


Figure 7-16. Monkey crawl.

(3) Rappel Seat Method (Figure 7-17). The soldier ties a rappel seat (or dons a seat harness) with the carabiner facing up and away from his body. He then faces the rope and clips into the rope bridge. He rotates under the rope and pulls with his hands and arms to make progress. The rappel seat method is the preferred method. If crossing with rucksacks, a carabiner is inserted into the frame and attached to the rope bridge. The soldier the places one or both legs through the shoulder carrying straps and pulls the rucksack across.


Figure 7-17. Rappel seat method.

b. Rigging Special Equipment. Any special equipment, such as crew-served weapons, ammunition, or supplies, must be rigged for movement across the rope bridge. A unit SOP may dictate the rigging of these items, but many expedient methods exist. The rigging should use various items that would be readily available to a deployed unit. Some of these items include tubular nylon webbing, cordage (various sizes), and carabiners.

(1) Machine Guns. To rig machine guns, use a sling rope and tie a rerouted figure-eight around the spine of the front sight post. Then tie two evenly spaced fixed loops. Finally, anchor the sling rope to the buttstock of the machine gun. Additional tie downs may be necessary to prevent accidental disassembly of the weapon.

(2) ALICE Packs. ALICE packs can be joined together with a sling to facilitate moving more than one rucksack at one time.

Hauling Line
A hauling line may be used to move rucksacks or casualties across the rope bridge (Figure 7-18 ).

a. Construction. An additional rope is brought across the rope bridge and anchored to the far side. The other end is anchored on the near side. All the slack is pulled to the near side, and a figure-eight slip knot is tied at the loading platform. A carabiner is inserted into the loop and clipped onto the rope bridge.


Figure 7-18. Hauling line.

b. Moving Rucksacks. Use carabiners to attach the rucksack frames to the rope bridge. Then clip the carabiner of the hauling line into the carabiner of the rucksack closest to the far side. Personnel on the far side pull the rucksacks across using the hauling line while personnel on the near side manages the slack at all times.

c. Moving Litters. The carabiner of the hauling line will remain on the rope bridge. On each side of this carabiner, using the hauling line tie a middle-of-the-rope clove hitch around both of the horizontal lift straps of the litter. Remove the slack between the carabiners. Then place the carabiners in each of the lift straps onto the rope bridge. The same technique used for the rucksacks is used to pull the litter across.

Retrieval
Once all except two troops have crossed the rope bridge, the bridge team commander (BTC) chooses either the wet or dry method to dismantle the rope bridge.

a. If the BTC chooses the dry method, he should have anchored his tightening system with the transport knot.

(1) The BTC back-stacks all of the slack coming out of the transport knot, then ties a fixed loop and places a carabiner into the fixed loop.

(2) The next to last man to cross attaches the carabiner to his rappel seat or harness, and then moves across the bridge using the Tyrolean traverse method.

(3) The BTC then removes all knots from the system. The far side remains anchored. The rope should now only pass around the near side anchor.

(4) A three-man pull team, assembled on the far side, takes the end brought across by the next to last man and pulls the rope tight again and holds it.

(5) The BTC then attaches himself to the rope bridge and moves across.

(6) Once across, the BTC breaks down the far side anchor, removes the knots, and then pulls the rope across.

b. If the BTC chooses a wet crossing, any method can be used to anchor the tightening system.

(1) All personnel cross except the BTC or the strongest swimmer.

(2) The BTC then removes all knots from the system.

(3) The BTC ties a fixed loop, inserts a carabiner, and attaches it to his rappel seat or harness. He then manages the rope as the slack is pulled to the far side.

(4) The BTC then moves across the obstacle while being belayed from the far side.

http://www.mountain-survival.net/chapte ... ridge.html

Natural Home Remedies

Acidity
Acne
Alcoholism
Anemia
Arthritis
Asthma
Backache
Bad Breath
Baldness
Blackheads
Body odor and perspiration
Cholesterol
Common Cold
Constipation
Cough
Dandruff
Dark circles under eyes
Depression
Diabetes
Diarrhea
Dry skin
Ear infections and aches
Eczema
Eye care
Gastritis
Hair care
Hangovers
Headaches
Heart care
Hemorrhoids
Hiccups
High blood pressure
Indigestion
Insomnia
Itching
Jaundice
Jetlag
Joint pains
Leg pains
Liver care
Liver Enlargement
Menopause
Menstruation
Miscarriage
Moles
Morning sickness
Mouth ulcers
Obesity
Parasites
Peptic ulcers
Prostrate gland
Psoriasis
Rheumatism
Ringworm
Scars
Skin allergies
Smoking
Sore throat
Sprains
Sterility
Stress
Stretch marks
Sunburn
Swelling of feet during pregnancy
Teeth whitening
Tooth ache
Varicose veins
Warts
Wrinkles
Yeast infections

http://www.natural-homeremedies.com/

Fire: Rubbing-Stick

by Ernest Thompson Seton



I have certainly made a thousand fires with rubbing sticks, and I have made at least five hundred different experiments. So far as I can learn, my own record of thirty-one seconds from taking the sticks to having the fire ablaze is the world's record (this was written in 1907; since then the record has been repeatedly lowered by others), and I can safely promise this: That every man who will follow the instructions I now give will certainly succeed in making a rubbing-stick fire.

Take a piece of dry, sound, balsam-fir wood (or else yucca, cedar, cypress, tamarack, basswood, or cottonwood, in order of choice) and make of it a drill and a block, thus



The drill should be not more than five eighths of an inch in diameter and 12 to 15 inches long. The larger your drill, the harder you have to work. There is no use in having an immense pile of powder to get a spark. If the drill averages five eighths of an inch in diameter, is perfectly straight, and tapers off at the top nicely, it will revolve smoothly and bring your spark quickly. The drill should be held perpendicularly and should be held solidly by the hand resting firmly against the shin bone. The drill should be placed in the bow so that the loop is on the outside of the thong away from the bow. This prevents the drill from rubbing against the bow.

Block, or board, two inches wide, six or eight inches long, five eighths of an inch thick. In this block, near one end, cut a side notch one half an inch deep, and near its end half an inch from the edge make a little hollow or pit in the top of the block, as in the above illustration (cut 1 b).

The notch should be cut into the board deeper at the bottom than at the top, and wider from a side view at the bottom than at the top. The narrower the notch is, while allowing the powder to drop, the better. The notch should be so cut that when the hole has been drilled, there will be just a little slit running from the side to the center of the hole through which the powder drops down. The wood must be cut smooth, or the spark may stick and not drop below. I have found it best to have the notch face me rather than have it the other side of the board away from me. I have noticed that the average person leans his drill, which causes it to push against the outside rim of the hole and to break the side away. Usually it is better to start your hole above the notch and then open up the notch until it connects with the hole.

Tinder. For tinder use a wad of fine, soft, very dry, dead grass mixed with shredded cedar bark, birch bark, or even cedar wood scraped into a soft mass.

A meadow mouse's nest does very well for tinder. It is easy to get a number of them after the snow has gone from the wet meadows in spring time.

Bow. Make a bow of any bent stick two feet long, with a strong buckskin or belt-lacing thong on it (cut 1c).

Socket. Finally, you need a socket. This simple little thing is made in many different ways. Sometimes I use a pine or hemlock knot with a pit one quarter inch deep, made by boring with the knife point. But it is a great help to have a good one made of a piece of smooth, hard stone or marble, set in wood; the stone or marble having in it a smooth, round pit three-eighths inch wide and three-eighths inch deep. The one I use most was made by the Eskimo. A view of the under side is shown in cut 1 (fig. d).

The hole in the soapstone should be large enough and deep enough to hold the upper point of the drill solidly without slipping out. The socket itself should not be held in the fingers but in the palm of the hand. Never let a light muscle do what a heavy muscle can do. There is a very general tendency to let the wrist get away from the shin bone, which leaves the hand wobbling, unsupported in the air.

The Foot. The foot is placed close to the drill, with all the weight on the ball of the foot, the heel off the floor so that you can regulate the pressure by the raising and lowering of the heel.

Now we are ready to make the fire:

Under the notch in the fire-block set a thin chip.

Turn the leather thong of the bow once around the drill: the thong should now be quite tight. Put one point of the drill into the pit of the block, and on the upper end put the socket, which is held in the left hand, with the top of the drill in the hole of the stone (as in cut 2). Hold the left wrist against the left shin, and the left foot on the fire-block. Now, draw the right hand back and forth steadily on level and the full length of the bow. This causes the drill to twirl in the pit. Soon it bores in, grinding out powder, which presently begins to smoke. When there is a great volume of smoke from a growing pile of black powder, you know that you have the spark. Cautiously lift the block, leaving the smoking powder on the chip. Fan this with your hand till the live coal appears. Now, put a wad of the tinder gently on the spark; raise the chip to a convenient height, and blow till it bursts into flame.

N. B. The notch roust reach the middle of the fire-pit.



You must hold the drill steadily upright, and cannot do so without bracing the left wrist against the left shin, and having the block on a firm foundation.

You must begin lightly and slowly, pressing heavily and sawing fast after there is smoke.

The Spark. When you get your spark, hold your left hand on the board as you take your foot off, and tap with the right hand (to loosen any spark that might hang onto the notch) before lifting the board. When you put your tinder on the spark, hold it down in the back and on the sides so that you will not blow the spark away.

If the fire does not come, it is because you have not followed these instructions.

http://www.inquiry.net/outdoor/skills/s ... g_fire.htm

Margarine Linked to Lower IQs in Kids

(NaturalNews) A recent study on dietary influences on IQ turned up a surprising connection: children who ate margarine regularly scored significantly lower on intelligence tests than their peers.

The study was conducted by researchers from Auckland University in New Zealand and published in the journal Intelligence.

Researchers studied the dietary intake and intelligence scores of children born in the mid-1990s.

"We found a number of dietary factors to be significantly associated with intelligence measures," the researchers said. "The association between margarine consumption and IQ scores was the most consistent and novel finding."

After adjusting for other factors that might influence IQ, including socioeconomic status, the researchers found that children who ate margarine daily scored three points lower on IQ tests by the age of three-and-a-half than children with lower margarine consumption.

By the age of seven, the average IQ scores of some margarine eaters were six points below those of their peers. This occurred only in children who had been born underweight, suggesting that disadvantaged brains might be more vulnerable to diet-induced problems.

Because the study was correlational, researchers were unable to determine what exactly caused the IQ gap between the two groups of children. They suspect, however, that the culprit may be transfats, also known as partially hydrogenated oils.

Formed by adding hydrogen atoms to unsaturated vegetable oils, transfats have a longer shelf life and are more solid at room temperature than natural vegetable oils. In the mid-1990s, margarines were made with up to 17 percent transfats. In recent years, however, scientists discovered that not only do transfats have no nutritional value, they also drastically increase the risk of heart attack and death in those who consume them.

Most margarines now contain approximately 1 percent transfats.

Sian Porter of the British Dietetic Association noted that while margarine tends to be healthier than butter, dietary consumption of both should be kept low.

Sources for this story include: www.dailymail.co.uk.

http://www.naturalnews.com/028150_ma...elligence.html

Securing Meat Sources Part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r4zC_r5YWQw


Securing Meat Sources Part 2 The Frog Leg Feast

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E2m0W1t1 ... re=channel

http://www.wildernessoutfittersarchery.com/

Introduction To Trapping Part 1

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SamsgbPp ... re=channel